Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

16970727475125

Comments

  • verydryiceverydryice Member Posts: 1
    >#3228 of 3650 by jcat707 Jan 01, 2005 (1:45 pm)
    >
    >
    >Lately when I have been riding in my friend's 03 Explorer, I hear this whistling >sound. It only happens when the it is cold outside in the winter. It did this last >winter and came back this winter. It was nowhere to be found during the fall, >spring and summer. Is this the infamous rear end whine that I have been hearing >about?

    I have the exact same problem, but i cannot find any follow ups for this one. Anyone suggestions?
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    The rear axle speed sensor was probably the ABS sensor for the rear wheels. I doubt that this has anything to do with the failure of the rear differential that the other posts are making reference to.
  • muzshermuzsher Member Posts: 5
    Hi, I have a 97 explorer, it did the same thing when we first got it. It was slipping in and out of 4x4.... we took it back to the dealer who had to find a mechanic who knew about this problem.. in another state. big drama. got it fixed, now the problem is we have had nothing but problems with the truck, had both front wheel hubs replaces, just had an oil leak fixed, new battery, brake pads done and now oil in the spark plugs. All shock exhorbers have to be replaced, and a shuddering still at 100kms.... can anything else go wrong????? We brought this 18 months ago.... Big mistake...
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    What engine? Automatic or Standard Shift? Brake pads, battery and shocks are normal maintenance. Oil on plugs could be a serious problem. Are your plugs and wires good? What plugs are you running? You need to pull the plugs and take a reading on all the plugs and very important to take a compression test of all the cylinders. How does it run? Do you get any smoke or water vapor out the exhaust pipe. Do you have to add coolant to the resivoir or radiator? Does the motor oil level remain constant, or does it raise or lower when checked several times every day?
    E.D.
  • muzshermuzsher Member Posts: 5
    sorry I don't know much about cars, it is an Auto, Limited model, no smoke from the exhaust as far as I know, and yes it is using oil. unfortunately these type of vehicles aren't serviced by mechanics that know much about them and they have to do a lot of ringing around to find out what is a common problem with them.. I check the oil levels but it is either at an acceptable level or just about has none. We havent added coolant to the radiator. The temp gauges seem to stay normal, which is a worry as the oil when it is low doesn't give me any indication... We have been told the shocks will cost around $900 is that a reasonable price?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Sorry, I can't figure out what this is supposed to mean:
    "these type of vehicles aren't serviced by mechanics that know much about them and they have to do a lot of ringing around to find out what is a common problem with them."
    Those vehicles are serviced by knowledgable mechanics who know the strengths and weakness of the vehicle and they know the common problems. I don't know who you've been taking yours to, but maybe it's time to find a better mechanic or a better shop.
    You never did answer what engine you have. I said READ the PLUGS and then do a COMPRESSION TEST, that will tell you a lot about the general health of the engine. A manifold vacuum test may be useful also.
    E.D.
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    Well, talk to some good shops in your area that specialize in rear ends. They will usually spend a few minutes with you describing what fails and how. They will also fix the problem for about half of what a ford dealer wants. Make sure you tell them you want to use high quality replacement parts, and have them suggest the "best" (in their opinion). Ask them if they have had to redo explorer after they have fixed them. Then ask them about their warranty. A little leg work will get you a better repair at a better price, with a better warranty.

    You could even go to high performance parts which are basically tougher steel than factory so they can handle high performance (meaning high horsepower) applications.

    I don't know the technical aspects of what ford has changed in the new differentials but I suspect cheaper parts are now being used.

    Get your dealer to state on paper that you need a new differential. Later, if there's a recall, typically you would get reimbursed for needed repairs, as long as a Ford dealer said you needed the work.
  • muzshermuzsher Member Posts: 5
    I told you I don't know much about cars... We should have taken it to a Ford Mechanic but we just moved to Australia and didn't know alot about where the best place was to take it. However, getting back to the problem, I looked this morning, and there wasn't any smoke of any kind coming out of the exhaust on start up.... As far as the read the plugs thing, I don't have a clue what you mean, I think we will just find a Ford dealer and find out the best place to take it. These types of vehicles arent very popular here, the engine is a 6 cylinder if that is what you mean. Sorry you are talking to a female..... Thanks for your help.
  • mdoug25mdoug25 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport (75K Miles) and have 2 friends, one also with a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport (85K Miles) and the other, a 99 Ford Explorer (AWD) (60K miles). All three Explorers are making the same front drive-line noise.

    Both Explorer Sports have had the wheel bearings on the right side replace but the noise remains. I am pretty sure they all share the same front drivetrain and at this point believe the source of the noise is in the front differential. Any thoughts?

    -MD
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    Have you rotated the tires? I had a similar issue with my 99 Explorer XLT 4WD and it turned out to be the Goodyear Wranglers, going on 55k, had to be rotated. The odd thing is that I rotated the tires every 5K and I still got noises that I thought were coming from the right axle shaft bearing. One of the folks at this site suggested tires and I had my doubts. He was right ;) and I was wrong :cry: .
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    That's ok, females are ok with me. I don't know a thing about Austraila! I'll try to explain a little better. The computer codes should always be scanned first to see if it shows any problems. To find out more about the general health of the engine, you can check to see what is going on inside the engine. To "read" the spark plugs, the 6 spark plugs are removed and inspected. A lot of information can be found out by "reading the plugs", meaning looking at the electrodes and insulator, noting the color of the center insulator, condition of the electrodes, general appearance (oily or dry), any greenish color that would indicate the presence of antifreeze, etc. A good mechanic knows how they should look and many auto manuals have a chart with pictures showing spark plugs that ran under various conditions. While the spark plugs are out, the mechanic screws a compression tester into the spark plug hole and cranks the engine to see how much compression the cylinder has. This is done for each cylinder. The amount of compression show be within a specified range, usually 150 lbs to 200 lbs, and the numbers should be close together, usually with in 10 lbs of each other. 20% difference is considered the maximum amount of difference between the cylingers. Any more than that indicates a definite problem, which could be leaking head gasket, cracked head or cracked block. This information can help lead the mechanic towards the correct diagnosis and repair.
    I hope this helps.
    E.D.
  • mercurymike2mercurymike2 Member Posts: 1
    Go back to the dealer, as many times as it takes, to get this fixed! Had the same issue w/a Mountaineer, had to have the solenoid changed twice, 2 other visits but finally seemms to be corrected. Mine got real exciting when you were on a highway, hit the gas to pass and it slipped, NOTHING, then finally creeped back into gear when you let off the gas. Had a sensor in the rear end changed also. Repair person at the dealership informed me that there are a LOT of these coming back to the dealer for repair. Don't quit until they fix it right!
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I would never pay $900 for shock absorbers. They are trying to take advantage of you. Get a written quote that says what kind they are and the warrenty, then shop around and get some better quotes, tell them you are looking for a good deal. You can also check on the internet to find them at a good price, then have your mechanic install them, it may be much cheaper that way. You can go to tirerack.com to find them. They have Premium Koni Shocks for $91.00 each. They are better than the original shocks. KONI Special shock absorbers (painted red) were developed for drivers who want to improve their vehicle in general by providing better comfort and handling. You can also find cheaper grades and more expensive grades on the internet. I buy all my brake pads and shocks on the internet. I get better parts at a better price.
    E.D.
  • muzshermuzsher Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for that. I presume that included the labour as well.
  • muzshermuzsher Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for that I have printed off what you have told me and I will take it to a reputable mechanic that hopefully knows these things...
  • kwidgekwidge Member Posts: 1
    Help! A couple of days ago, my 1994 Ford Explorer started stalling when the engine is idle, for no apparent reason. When idling, the engine will now start to shudder and then die. All electrical systems seem to be functioning normally. There's also an additional concern of a hissing noise when I touch the accelerator. BTW, the mileage is 147,000.
  • 02a41802a418 Member Posts: 1
    The power door locks on my 2002 Explorer XLT quit working.
    The fuse and the relay are OK. The alarm still works, the interior lights still come on and go off using the remote. The locks don't work using the remote or the interior switch. And they don't lock automatically when you start driving. The rear hatch glass doesn't work either, even if you use the exterior button. I've pulled off the interior trim panels to look for a loose wire, but didn't find anything. I can hear a switching noise from behind the second row seat on the passenger side.
    Any suggestions?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    It sounds very much like a vacuum leak. Look for any vacuum hoses that have came loose or broken. If you can't tell where the hissing sound is coming from, get a length of hose and put one end to your ear and use the other end of the hose to prod around the engine compartment to locate the noise. When you get the end of the hose at the vacuum leak, you will be able to hear it through the hose. When you find the location of the vacuum leak, fix the hose or connection.
    A few things to keep an eye on:
    1. Be sure to keep a clean air filter on it. Check the MAF while the air cleaner cover is off, being sure the intake screen is is free from dirt. Sometime the MAF's get contaminated and have to be internally cleaned by a mechanic. Also check the air intake tube that runs from the air filter box to the Throttle Body to be sure it has no breaks or cracks, pull it off and look underneath, I have seen them crack and leak and made the engine run bad.
    2. Make sure the Spark Plug wires are good. They can go bad in 60,000 miles. You can make the Spark Plug Wires last much longer by gapping your spark plugs at 0.040" instead of the factory recommended .054". This reduces the voltage on the wires. I've done it for many years with no problem.
    E.D.
  • met722met722 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Explorer with SOHC 4.0L V6 2WD engine. I recently went mudding in it and had it in 1st revved up at 5K rpms for a while. A few minutes after that I tried putting it in reverse and it wouldnt lock in. Then when I put it in drive it would not shift gears. After a while it would start shifting gears at over 5K rpms when i would let off the gas. When I got home I checked the transmission fluid and it was double over what it should have been. I also had dented my transfer case so I took off the bottom cover, replaced the filter, banged out the dent, and refilled it with the correct amount of fluid. Now the only problem is when I get to about 25 MPH, the rpms will rev up from about 2000 rpms to 3000 and then it will kick down into the next gear. It only does the between 1st to 2nd gear. A friend of mine told me I could have blown an internal seal running the rpms that high with too much fluid. I really do not want to have to rebuild the transmission which would cost a lot of $$. Does anyone know what this could be and how I could fix it? Thanks in advance.
  • flowerchild1flowerchild1 Member Posts: 3
    Hey,
    I just had this problem fixed last year. Its a defect in the SOHC. There is a kit out there that fixes it. My boyfriend found this info, under some recall information for the SOHC. It wasn't a recall, but it lists the problem and the solution. Since it had been fixed ,I have had no noise coming from the engine.
  • flowerchild1flowerchild1 Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    I'm not sure how much this will cost you to fix. I had the very same problem with this engine. There is a ford recall list somewhere on the net. My boyfriend found it. Any how, there is a defect in the 400 SOHC engines and it makes this ticking noise, when cold and seems to stop when the engine warms up. I didn't get mine fixed for a year, it doesn't effect the performance of the engine. The sound eventually never stoped. There is a kit to fix this problem. You can find it by searching for ford recalls. They never did a recall for this problem, but the problem is listed and the kit is being sold, with instructions.
    Good luck
  • flowerchild1flowerchild1 Member Posts: 3
    Help!
    I have a 98 ford explorer sport and just this afternoon, when I tried to open my door to get out, my door would not open. The driverside lock would not unlock. Not by using the handle or the remote. I had to exit through the passenger door.
    The lock and door was working just fine, no warning glitches that something was wrong. The remote locks and unlocks all the other doors,but I can't unlock it using the key pad either. Just the strangest thing. I had an issue with the locks some while back and it affected all the locks. That turned out to be a fuse that neededto be replaced. I have no clue what this is.
    Any clues?
  • moparprincessmoparprincess Member Posts: 1
    I was involved in an accident July 26, 2003. My Explorer was hit on the passenger side right in the middle of the vehicle at about 45mph. I had it repaired, which was estimated at $8,000 by my insurance company. The damages were as follows: Replace rt. quarter panel, tire and rim, frame repair, repair drive line, exhaust/muffler, rocker ,panel, leaf spring, rt inner floor sidemember, shock absorber, rear axel and susp. housing, repair body floor plan, rt. door shell/panel, replace rt. side mirror, door lock/handle, thrust angel alignment, 4 wheel alignment, etc. Repairs were completed on 08/04/03. On 09/30/03 I took the vehicle back to the shop again, as the rear hatch door came open while driving, the hatch door window didn't latch correctly, paint was chipping where the body work was done, and there was a loud "humming" noise coming from the rear-end when I would reach 55mph or higher. I was told that the rear axel required "fluid" and that they did another 4-wheel alignment. On 03/08/04 I took the vehicle back to the shop AGAIN, as the "humming" noise coming from the rear end was getting worse. I was told that a tech had to correct a frame problem. On 04/06/04 I took the vehicle back and demanded that they further investigate the loud noise I was hearing at higher speeds. They then replaced the rear axel assembly for the second time. I got my vehicle back on 05/14/054. I was told that they replaced the rear axel again, vehicle was re-aligned, as more frame work was done, supposedly because they were having a hard time gettin the axel to fit. Almost 2 years since the accident, the vehicle still isn't right. The loud "humming" noise and vibration is back, the rear driver side tire/wheel "wobbles/shakes" now, the rear passenger side tire is totally bald and leans inward a bit. Also, recently, while restoring the carpet, I noticed a long crack down along the passenger side floor running from the rear quarter panel along the floor of the passenger door. I have contacted a frame &body shop here in Tucson, and was advised to get it in for a second opinion as it sounded to them like the axel is bent due to being forced in, and possibly the frame of the vehicle is bent. I would love to hear comments from anyone. I am so frustrated..my explorer was perfect before the accident. I will say though, I will never own another ford ANYTHING, the rest of my life!!!
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,281
    I will say though, I will never own another ford ANYTHING, the rest of my life!!!

    So you are blaming Ford for your accident? That's pretty low. Truthfully your truck should have probably been totalled. You need to go after your insurance company and the body shop, NOT Ford.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    IMHO, sometimes a vehicle can't be fixed, period. I would not go thru two years of total frustration. Put a new tire on it, and trade it for what ever you can get for it. The market is soft for SUVs right now. It's a great time to acquire a new one. JUST GET RID OF IT!!! It's not the vehicles fault-it's either your fault or the other guy's fault--depending on who the insurance company pinned the blame on!
  • jetsc17jetsc17 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Explor Sport 2wd. I have been having problems with the transmission leaking. It has been leaking between where the trans mounts to the motor. The first time I saw the leak it was oil. I took it to the dealer and after 2 weeks they finally got the torque converter changed. Now (about 3 months) it is leakinbg in the same place but it trans fluid. I was wondering if anybody else has had this problem.
  • nitromaxnitromax Member Posts: 640
    So you are blaming Ford for your accident? That's pretty low. Truthfully your truck should have probably been totalled. You need to go after your insurance company and the body shop, NOT Ford.

    I agree. That Explorer should have been totaled. If the frame damage happened in the front end or the back end then it should be salvage-able, but frame damage between the wheels is a nightmare waiting to happen.
    ...welcome to your nightmare....

    do as chuck1 said, get what you can for it and count your blessings that you weren't hurt in the accident.
  • ejgabeejgabe Member Posts: 9
    I have a 1998 Explorer XLT 4WD (auto) with 90,000 miles. There is a front-end rattling/clunking/clinking noise ONLY when the weather is hot (above 70 degrees). Very loud and noticeable at lower speeds. I can feel it a little bit in the steering wheel and on the gas petal. As my wife puts it, everything feels "loose" on the front end. This is the 2nd year in a row that I having this issue. Believe it not, I do not have this problem at all when the temps are below around 70. I live in Colorado and do not have an issue all winter long. Now the temps are heating up, this problem started right up again. I have twice brought it in to the dealer and they have not corrected the issue. I still have the original shocks and struts. Could that be the issue? Any suggestions?? Thanks in advance!
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    It sounds like some bushings may be marginal. Forget the dealer, ask around for a good front-end shop. When you hear it-depending on temperature- sounds more rubber related (i.e.bushings) than anything made of steel/metal. Also, if there is rack and pinon steering, I would check "the rack" as well. Good luck!
  • scorpyscorpy Member Posts: 2
    Hi all

    I have tried searching this forum for an answer to my problem but came up empty so hopefully one of you can help point me in the right direction.

    I have a 1998 Mercury Mountaineer with 112k miles on the clock. Everything was fine with it until I had the tires rotated a couple of weeks ago. (It should be noted that on the previous rotation I replaced the front tires so I had a new set on the front and an old set on the back).

    Straight after having the tires rotated I noticed that if I took the car about 65mph the steering wheel kept feeling very light as though I didnt have contact with the road (best way I can describe it is it felt like I had hit black ice). If I dropped below 65 mph the problem went away. The next day driving to work (50 miles away) it just got steadily worse and I ended up taking it into a tire place there. They told me that the tires that had previously been on the front were cupping and that it was probably due to the shocks.

    I then had them swap the tires back (silly me thinking this would reverse the problem) and limped home doing between 45-50mph. The next day I took it to another company and asked them to check the shocks (also described the problem). They were unable to find anything wrong but when they road tested it did discover what they called squirrelling or squirling but couldnt offer me a solution. In desperation (and fear for mine and others lives) I had them replace all the shocks and tires.

    On the drive home I did manage to get the car upto 70mph with no evidence of the problem however while its a lot better now I'm still noticing this 'lightness' in the steering wheel at about 30-40 mph.

    The last time I had a problem like this was many years ago and replacing the shocks fixed it. Any ideas, help, guidance would be much appreciated!
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    I am driving a 99 that got hit hard in the rear and had frame damage, maybe I can explain some things.....

    To fix frame damage, your car is put on a frame straightening machine. Measurements are taken at various points on the frame, and then the body shop "pulls" the frame back into straight / square alignment. Ford provides correct measurements for your frame - all body shops have access to these measurements. A good frame machine will get your frame to within in 1/8 of an inch (or less) of the factory measurments. At that point your car can be correctly repaired and aligned. You must do a 4 wheel alignment check after an accident with frame damage.

    Your car was not correctly straightened. First, go to a high quality body shop. Have them check the frame measurements. Get a complete copy of the measurements, and have them put in writing what your problems are. You are most likely "doglegging" which basically means your rear tires are not following straight behind your front tires due to the bent frame. This is what is causing your rear axle problems.

    Take a copy of the report back to the shop that did the original repairs. This will show them that you are specifically aware of what repairs were done incorrectly. This makes you a little more B.S. proof. Don't accept any excuses, there are none. Any good body shop can straighten your car correctly. Also, make sure you show them the crack.

    If life were fair, they would agree to redo the repairs. Since that will cost them time/money, I am not optimistic.

    Now to the non car stuff:

    When you have a wreck, YOU are responsible for which body shop is chosen for repairs, not your insurance company. YOU are responsible for for accepting the car back after the repairs have been made, not your insurance company. Your insurance company only reimburses you for the cost of the repairs. Still true even if the check from the ins. company was made out to the body shop. Read all the repair paperwork and ins. co. paperwork, you'll see language to that effect somewhere. Your ins. co. may agree to help, or they may not.

    That said, you have a right to have the repairs done correctly. That is what you paid for. If the body shop will not correct the repairs, you can call the state ins commisioner and see if they can help. Provide them with a copy of the report on your frame, pictures of the cracks, and hit the safety issue hard. Some states are better than others: good ones can put a body shop out of business for putting a dangerous car back on the road.

    If all else fails, it's lawyer time. You would probably sue to recover the entire cost of repairs done because the vehicle is pretty much worthless with a bent frame - but thatis just a guess.

    Kind of a long winded reply, hope it was clear enough!
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    Many tire shops will misdiagnose front tire cupping on exploders/ mounties and blame shocks.

    I bet your tire cupping is on the inside of each tire?

    Hit the alignment shop, have the front end parts and alignment checked. If your toe in has changed and you have toe-out, this can cause a wander or light feeling in the steering, and will wear the inside of the front tires.

    If you are toe out, have them check the ride height of your front end. A lot of shops do not do this prior to doing the alignment. If this is below spec you need to solve that problem prior to aligning it.. Typical problems causing ride height issues are bad bushings in the control arms and bad torsion bar tension adjusting bolts.

    Oh, by the way, have you had new ball joints yet? I had to do them long before 112k.
  • edg1941edg1941 Member Posts: 1
    This is my 4th Explorer and engine misses badly while driving only and not at idle. There is 53K on auto which I purchased new. I suspect the EGR valve from which I disconnected the vacuum line, blocked it, and took it for a drive. The engine continues to miss with no dash warnings. The miss seems to disappear after 45 MPH. Any ideas?
  • maxdrawmaxdraw Member Posts: 21
    How weird! This exact thing happened to me today. I too have a '98 explorer sport and I had to exit through the passenger side. Have you gotten this fixed yet? I plan on taking mine in as soon as I can, but would be very interested in what caused your door problem. It seems like a broken part in the door handle mechanism, but I don't know for sure.
  • gdr64gdr64 Member Posts: 1
    Does your '02 Explorer suddenly show an Empty Fuel Tank, and "Check Gage" red light comes on while you are driving. Also, do u have to chg the fuse for your blinker? Can't remember ever having to change a fuse for blinkers on my Toyota Camry before...I have almost 50,000 miles on my Explorer. I have Ext Warranty, but Ford Dealership in Buena Park wants me to pay if they don't find source of electrical problems; so what'd I buy the Ext Warranty for?
  • ryorkeryorke Member Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 2000 Explorer XLS 4x4 on an impulse buy and realized that there is very little leg room for a 6 foot guy in the drivers seat. I've searched the forums to see if anyone ever did any modifications to move the seat back any further (and also talked to a couple of local mechanics), with no luck. I was just wondering if anyone else experienced the same problem and found a solution other than selling the vehicle. Would appreciate any contructive help. Thanks...
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    Try moving the back support one or two notches back from vertical. This may help a bit.
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    Has any one else heard the news report that Ford is recommending that you replace the tires on your car after 6 years no matter how much tread remains? Memories of 2000 and Firestones!!!
  • ryorkeryorke Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, that does help some. Today, I'm going to remove the seat and see if it can be positioned a little further back on the rails. If yes, then I have to figure out how to remove the collapseable backseat headrests so I can put the back seats flat.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    This is nothing new. Rubber just naturally deteriorates from the long term effects of sun, heat and the ozone in the air. The effect is usually called dry rot, and is common to tires that don't get much use, or tires that stay parked for long periods, such as trailer tires. As they get several years old, they need to be replaced due to cracks and deterioration. The actual amount of time will vary, depending on the conditions the tires are subjected to, but six year old tires sound pretty old to me.
    E.D.
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    I'm thinking about the full size spare that we might have. I've never used mine and I guess should be concerned about driving on it, if necessary, for any great distances. Is the dry rot you talk about a physical or chemical change in the rubber due to environmental factors or is it a condition brought on by a microbe? Does the dry rot affect the surface of the tire only? Now I will Google this topic and try to find out more.

    There are many people who don't drive their vehicles that many miles per year who could have tires that have lots of tread left who might be in jeopardy if what is being said is correct.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Some say six, some say eight years. Heat seems to be a big factor too. There was a good thread about tire aging last year:

    capriracer, "Tires, tires, tires" #4131, 4 Sep 2004 7:55 am

    Steve, Host
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    RVers have known this for years. Their trailer/motor home sits more than accumulate miles, so the tires dry rot. This is nothing to do with Ford, it's what we call in the industrial sector "best practices!".
  • goforsomenelsegoforsomenelse Member Posts: 1
    My driver side door will not unlock and now the door handle won't open. I haven't seen any posts to answer this yet. I would like to fix this myself if anyone has any experience doing this themselves.
  • 2buck2buck Member Posts: 1
    I have a '93 Explorer and I can not get to the electrical connector so I can disconnect the oxygen sensor from the wiring harness. My hand is too big to get to the connector. Is there a trick so I can get the connector up from the backside of the engine? It appears to be mounted on a bracket. I cannot figure how to get it off of this mounting bracket. :mad: I tried to use a screw driver but it will barely get down to this assembly. Help!
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I can't tell you anything very specific, but if you are handy with a few tools, you can look inside the door to check all the linkages and door mechanisims. First, run the glass all the way up so it will be out of the way, then take the inside door panel off. This is usually held in place by 2 or 3 screws in the door handle area, then the rest of the panel is held to the door by plastic push-in anchors all around the perimeter of the panel. Slip a thin screwdriver or wedge under a edge on the panel to get a plastic push-in anchor to pull out, then work your way around the edge of the panel pulling the plastic anchors out. Once loose, you will have to wiggle and raise the panel a bit to get it to unhook from the top of the door. Work slow and careful, as there will be wires connected from the door to the panel, for the door switches, mirror switch, and light. Once the panel is loose, you can loosen the door switch assembly by prying up on one end, then very carefully twisting and turning it just so careully, and it will pass through the door panel and be free of the panel. Once you get the wires loose, set the panel out of the way. The inside of the door will be covered with plastic stuck to the door with a gooey adhesive, carefully put off the plastic, trying not to damage it, as you will need to put it back on later. Once the plastic is off, or partially off, you will see openings in the door. Put a worklight inside the door so you can see inside, you may need mirrors to be able to see aound in there. Some places are difficult to see. Operate the door handles and latches and watch the motions of the linkages and components so see what is going on. It is a good idea to carefully lube the mechanisims and window channel guides with some WD40 and some spray white grease. Careful to not make a mess. You might be able to see the problem and fix it, or it may not be evident. Doors can be a real pain to work on. The door motors are usually pretty easy. If you can't figure out what the problem is, them button it back up and take it to a repair shop. I good body shop should be able to help.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. :)
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I had a 91 and a 93 Explorer and this was a common problem on the early 91 to 94 Explorers. They did not think to leave any slack in the cable or any room to allow you be able to reach it. I think I was able to reach mine on the passenger side by pulling the wheel off and reaching through the wheel well over the frame, and working my hand up beside the air conditioner evaporator box. Very very difficult to reach.
    This was one of the things I didn't like about the early Explorers. The thing I hated the most was the weak automatic transmissions. They should have had their heads examined, to be dumb enough to put a light duty transmission in a truck. The A4LD automatic transmission is a modified German/French C3 transmission, lighter than what is used in the Mustang. The Explorer should have had nothing less than a AOD or AODE tranmission from the start.
    Good Luck,
    E.D.
  • maxdrawmaxdraw Member Posts: 21
    I just had my dealer fix this for me. The problem was a broken door latch and the part cost $36.90. Labor was $142 (Yikes!), but I didn't have time to deal with it myself and I needed to have it fixed asap because it was too dangerous to keep driving around without being able to get out in an emergency. I hope this helps.
  • beckyrbeckyr Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I need help! I bought a 2002 explorer 3 months ago (without the extended warranty, of course) from a fairly large dealership. My O/D light began flashing and the Ford dealership I took it to said it is the Solenoid Pack 5R55W. Not the dealership I purchased it from, they are now out of business! Should they have known there was a problem? Is there anything I can do? What exactly is going on with the transmission? When the light comes on, there is no slipping, no noticeable problem. Can I safely drive it short distances until I can get it repaired? Thanks for the help!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    While waiting for responses, try a Search This Discussion on Solenoid for posts like this one:

    renna, "Ford Explorer: Problems & Solutions" #3439, 24 Mar 2005 11:25 pm

    Steve, Host
Sign In or Register to comment.