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http://www.jasperengines.com/reman-trans-process.htm
All I know is both Ford & GM are in a major world of hurt with truck/SUV sales down. I bet they are looking at ALL THEIR COSTS.... including WARRANTY CLAIMS.
He should do as I suggested-get the SUV fixed, take them to small claims court. Before the court date (if it's as cut and dry as he tells us) they will settle. :mad: I had a rattle in a driver's door in my Explorer. It was like trying to move a mountain to get that fixed. The dealer adjusted it three times, more rattles-finally ordered a new door handle. Unbelievable!
Transmission - Have you kept up all maintenance? Did you check to be sure the fluid level is correct? Are you sure the gear shift lever is engaging properly? Strange that sometimes it moves, and sometimes it doesn't. The inconsistency makes diagnosing from a distance difficult.
Door ajar light - There must a be mis-adjusted door switch. Be sure all doors and back hatch are closed tight. Check each door/hatch by watching the light while having someone repeatedly open and close each door/hatch, to see if you can tell which one it is.
Right rear wheel whining noise - Could you be more specific, does this happen when moving? How fast? Any particular speed? Does it make the noise both in forward and reverse. Does the pitch of the whine vary with the speed or is it constant? Has the rear axle ever had any work done on it? Fluid level in rear axle may need to be checked. They say that it doesn't need to be checked, but any that I have checked with over 75,000 miles needed fluid to be added.
The V8 engines and transmissions are generally very reliable on these vehicles. I have a 2000 with V8 and Automatic 2 wheel drive, and very happy with it. Don't give up yet, these may be very minor issues. Hope I can help.
Good Luck,
E.D.
Good Luck,
E.D.
Oh, by the way, how the heck do you lube the front suspension?
All maintenance is done at recommended intervals, and I check fluid levels periodically. Vehicle has 35,000 miles. Have never heard in reverse, but as mentioned above it's only at higher speeds than I ever hit in reverse.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Thanks for any help.
I could reproduce the noise as follows:
Find a really obnoxious speed bump. (Old Kmarts seem to have really bad ones)
You want to hit the bump at just the right speed, so that as you are on top of the bump your hood is rising quickly, and as you drive off of the bump your wheels drop down fuly extending your suspension. The combination of your hood going up while your wheels drop off of the bump gets that full extension. Your hood / front end will then drop, pretty well compressing the front suspension. You should hear the pop at this point.
Hit the bump too slow, and the hood is dropping down before you drive off the bump and your suspension doesn't extend. Too fast, the hood never "bounces up" in reaction to the bump. You gotta get that hood bounce to fully extend the front suspension.
If you can consistently reproduce the noise this way, ford or a good front end shop can put the sniffers(electronic ears) on the front end and you can drive the bump till they nail down what part makes the noise.
Since you have had a fair amount of front end work already, I would say this becomes a pretty strong possibility as quite a few of your other parts have been replaced.
In my case they replaced sway bar tie links front and rear , tie rod ends, lower right control arm and sway bar mounts and bushings front and rear, before I figured out the speed bump test.
Can't lube the front end, there are no zerk fittings. You can spray wd 40 on all your front end bushings, but I doubt this will do anything.
Oh, just for grins, reach behind your intake manifold and make sure the PCV valve is still in the grommet and hoses attached.. Its right next to the firewall, and if it blows out it clunks around. This is a real longshot, but it never hurts to check.....
Sounds like the tail end of the transmission may be leaking. Slide under the vehicle with some paper towels and locate the wet spot.
:confuse:
Maybe I'm just in a bad mood today, but I'd tell them that if I don't have a car, I'll just have to hang around their sales floor and relate my story to all of the potential customers that I can.
The Ford A4LD Automatic transmission has been problematic. Go BACK in this forum and read POSTS # 3735, 3736, 3744, 3745, 3746, 3747 and 3751, and that will be the answers to you question.
Good Luck,
E.D.
It sounds like a loose connection in one of your main electrical cable bundles. I wonder if all of the problematic issues are tied into one cable bundle.
I would really like to get this fixed. Has anyone had similar problems? Any solutions?
thanks so much!
If you have the V8 302, and all of your plugs look normal ( meaning no head gasket oil leaks) and have otherwise been told the engine is fine, then the most likely culprit is your PCV valve. Most likely you will find oil in the PCV hoses if this is your engine.
My 302 sucks oil up the PCV and burns it, altho not as fast as yours. If you have any pinging on long hills or steep hills that is another indicator.
I have played with my PCV system (new valve,, etc. etc.) and could not stop it from sucking oil, so I ended up putting an oil separator ( oil catch can) on it. It seems to drink 5/30 faster than 15/50 so I use the heavier oil.
Would be interested to hear back if that is the culprit or what the problem turns out to be!
Thanks for the quick help.
Thanks in advance for any advice sent my way!
And I will be getting the right tool for the job, heard some bad stories about people not having the right tool for the job and it could get ugly.
Sounds like your chain is slipping in your transfer case.
A complete parts kit, including chain, can be had for around 250.00. Since your chain is probably slipping, you most likely need some new drive gears for the chain, which would be extra - they are not part of the normal rebuild kit.
Rebuilding takes some tools - gear pullers, bearing pullers, etc. And the main output shaft nut has 250 lbs of torque on it, so air tools are good here. Not sure how much wrench time you have - it's not a beginners job, but if you can follow instructions you can probably handle it.
Search rebuilt transfer cases on the net. They can be had with 12/12 warranties for somewhere around 750.00 and shipping. Maybe a little less
550.00 for a used one is kind of high in my opinion unless they are pulling it out for you.
You might try some other salvage yards and see if you can do better.
I'm going to go get my Cowboy Junkies cd and put it on.......
I've talked to some of the other dealerships in my area and they seem to think the problem is NOT normal and CAN be fixed..... so I plan to let them take a look at it.
I would be interested to know if any one that has the problem has been able to get it corrected ...
I really like everything about the truck, but the Chirping is driving me up a wall!
I recently replaced the rack and pinion, tie rods and lower steering shaft.
Any ideas would be helpful, thanks
Nobody responded to Ottav's posting - anybody have any clues what this might be?
Thanks in advance!
For some time now it has had this squeaking which sounds like
is from the drivers front wheel/axel area. It does not do it when it is first
started and driven... after about 5 minutes it does the squeaking noise only
at an idle to 5/6 MPH then it goes away.. stop signs, drive thru's.. etc..
You can tell by the way that it squeaks that it is something rotating...
I have removed and replaced the short shaft from the transfer case to the front differential and that made no difference..
I talked to someone the other day that said that it was most likely the 4 wheel drive
hub because the drive gears are made of nylon and they wear or break down
around 80K... I just hit 80K and he did not know that??..
Is this something I can do with my standard tool set or does a mechanic have
to do this... Also does this even sound plausable that this is the problem....
Could the transfer case cause this type of noise?? the fluid is right up to the level
it should be and has no sign of leaks....
Thanks in advance
Any comments would be greatly appreciated, and if anyone from the houston area knows of a Ford Dealership's service department that isnt around to screw you, names would be helpfull. Thanks.
My wife has a '02 XLT w/V6 and 2WD. She drives very conservatively. It currently has a little over 41,000 miles on it. The car averages no more than 14 city and will get 20mpg highway IF DRIVEN NO FASTER THAN 70MPH. If your getting 17 highway you may want to keep it under 70mph and see what happens. Also, I don't know why the dealer didn't tell you this, but I would wait at least another 5,000 miles before determining your real world mpg. I have a '05 Taurus (company provided vehicle) and it got REALLY BAD mileage when new, but stated getting better as I approached 12,000 miles. And I don't mean to sound sarcastic or disrespectful, but it clearly sounds like mileage is really important to you----Why did you buy an SUV with gas around $2.00 per gallon?