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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    "that kind of mileage on the highway is not right"

    After 2 1/2 years of ownership, I can tell you it IS RIGHT if he is doing 80 or over on the open road.......
  • fordexp1fordexp1 Member Posts: 14
    I bought an SUV because I was tired of being on the ground, plus I tend to go off roading occasionally on the ranch, and the car was a quite too low for me, plus it didnt have the trunk space or space inside to do the things I wanted it, to do. Overall gas mileage isnt that important, so what if it costs a few hundred bucks over the year more to run than smaller vehicles..its worth it. This explorer is getting about the same gas mileage as my F250 FX4 is getting and I figured something had to be wrong with it!

    If I had known this explorer was going to get this bad of mpg I would have just got the expedition or the V8 in the explorer, they would have probably been a little more fun to drive. I had a 91 Explorer before my last car, and I always got about 18-19 in the city and 21-23 on the highways with it, so I figured something was up with my new one.

    Hind sight I should have got the V8 explorer, and would tell anyone that buys a new one to get the V8. Its gas mileage seems to be equal to that of the V6 with a little more pep. Thanks for the comments.
  • counttaxescounttaxes Member Posts: 1
    I AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM...ONE DAY IT IS WORKING AND THE NEXT IT STOPPED WORKING. Did you get a solution? ....thanks. If I find one, I will get back to you if you haven;t solved it yet...
  • vunnyuvunnyu Member Posts: 1
    Hi. I have a 99 Mountaineer with exactly same problem. Did you receive any feedback or comment about? It is not a ball problem? Thanks
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,256
    my '02 with v8 and towing package gets 18-20 mpg while doing 75-80 with passengers and luggage. in fact, better than at 65. :confuse: it has 44k on it, and i have done this many times. maybe the v6 std axle is most efficient at 70.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • airkristiairkristi Member Posts: 2
    Hi I have a 1995 Ford Explorer. It has over 200,000 miles on it. The transmission was replaced in 2000 I think. My brother was driving my truck and was going up a hill and it lost power. The OD light has been flashing since i bought the truck in 2003. When i take off it wont shift up into 2nd unless i take my foot off the gas pedal and then put it back on. After that it shifts the other gears just fine. When it goes into the passing gear i have to take my foot off the gas again so it will shift.What could be the cause of this? I so dont have the money to replace the transmission. Can I fix it myself or have my brother do it since he does know more about cars than I do?
  • aplan1aplan1 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1999 Mountaineer AWD. The problem you describe currently exists on my vehicle. I have been driving with the noise for several months. According to my former Mercury dealership mechanic, the problem/noise will never escape you and will only worsen with time.

    History of Repairs:

    The dealership replaced my serpentine belt on 05-02-2002 and then again on 7-17-2003. After the CY 2003 repair, the noise returned within a few months. Depending upon the weather (wet and/or humid) the noise can be somewhat erratic. In cold weather, the noise would disappear after a few minutes provided I was not encountering wet/snow conditions. Apparently, it is a mechanical defect that is not covered under the extended warranty provision.

    Factory Shop Manual:
    I was trying to locate a Ford Shop Manual to look into the matter.

    Pervasive Ford Repair Issue on Several Model Years:
    Since the problem exists on the 2005 vehicles, either Ford is unaware of the problem or is ignoring their responsibility to repair the problem. Perhaps, the dealerships are not reporting the problem to the factory and/or the repair amount is immaterial for Ford to take any action on behalf of its customers.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    "Hind sight I should have got the V8 explorer, and would tell anyone that buys a new one to get the V8. Its gas mileage seems to be equal to that of the V6 with a little more pep"

    Yes, it has been talked about on this board that the V8 only gets about 2 mpg less highway, than the V6. Around town it seems to get about 1 mpg less. I can't explain how one poster is getting a claimed 20mpg at 80mph w/ the V8. This is against everything I know and all the posts here.........

    As far as the V6 vs. the V8, the V6 seems to have plenty of torque for around town. IT IS pretty noisy. I think the main difference is on the highway. If you "punch" the V6 on the highway...there isn't a whole left as far as power is concerned.
  • shera1shera1 Member Posts: 2
    I too, have a 98 Explorer XLT and love it! I bought it used with 45K on it. I now have 111K and it runs exactly the same. I am a preventative maintenance person but sadly, I have not tuned it up yet. The main reason for this is I have no idea how to get to the spark plug on the passenger side up against the cooling system. Any suggestions?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    You did not say what engine you have. I have the 5.0L V8 in my 2000 XLT. I reach the spark plugs by jacking the front of the vehicle up, supporting in on stands, then taking the front wheels off. Then pull the splash shields loose from inside the fender. I use a claw hammer to carefully pull those plastic retainers out, being careful not to break them. Then you can reach the plugs easily through the inner fender well opening by using a swivel spark plug socket and an extension. The back one on the passenger side is tight near the Air Condition Evaporator Box, but you can still reach it by slippng a straight spark plug socket on it first, then hooking the 3/8' rachet onto the spark plug socket, then turning it about a 1/2 turn to loosen it, then removing the ratchet from the socket, then turning the socket by hand until the plug is loose, then remove the plug. It is a snug fit, but there IS enough room. Be sure to gap the plug at the factory spec, the V8 calls for .054". I tried gapping them closer for a while to make my spark plug wires last longer, but the gas mileage seems to go down about 1 or 2 mpg, so it is better to have the correct gap and save the gas, it will pay for the wires over 60,000 to 100,000 miles. Be sure that you ALWAYS put a little SILICONE DIELECTRIC GREASE on the spark plug threads when installing the plugs, tighten firmly, but not too tight, then put more Silicone Dielectric Grease on the exterior of the spark plug insulator and squirt more inside the spark plug boot, then push it firmly on the plug, twisting the boot to be sure it is seated all the way on the plug. You can get a 3 or 4 oz tube of the SDG for about 4 or 5 bucks. Good stuff to keep in your tool box.
    Good Luck,
    E.D.
  • red05exbauerred05exbauer Member Posts: 2
    My new (400 miles) Explorer, to me has a funny shifting problem. When I slow down below 20 mph and then accelerate, there is a short delay, then the engine revs up and then the tranny kicks in with a jerk. Is this normal? Me dealer seems to think so.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    Tell him to check the transmisson solenoid. They are a widespread problem!
  • shera1shera1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a V6 4.0 SOHC. Sounds like good advice. Apparently, I still have the factory installed plugs in. After 111K miles, I am very impressed that they are in such great shape. MotorCraft platinum. Anyway, I will try your suggestion and see if it works. Thanks.
  • fordexp1fordexp1 Member Posts: 14
    check out the new explorer, personally i dont like it? front end loooks like crap.">link title

    http://www.autoweek.com/article.cms?articleId=102311
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    It look like they are trying to "round out the vehicle". You know, if Ford came up with some better designs, people would buy their cars. Or maybe I am wrong, they took a 30 year old design (the Mustang) and brought it back...and the Mustang is the only thing selling in their entire line. GO FIGURE!!! :confuse:
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,256
    all i can tell you is that i am a very consistent about keeping track of gas mileage in my vehicles. maybe you think i'm ocd, but i have been like this since i grew up with the early '70's gas crisis.
    one thing that i have figured out is that tire pressures are very important. it can do 2 things for you, get you better mileage and make the tires last longer.
    just to be clear, i don't always get 20 mpg's on a trip, but i have done it several times trying to maintain 80 mph. usually i am running the rear a/c too. i do know that you can get about an extra mpg by setting the front tires to a pressure slightly over the number listed on your door sticker.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    "You know, if Ford came up with some better designs, people would buy their cars."

    C'mon, Chuck - the Explorer has been the best selling SUV since the day it came out.... What you see in the 2006 refresh is the deletion of the trouble prone liftgate with the composite/glass door combination, unfortunately, and the introduction of the new front end look for Ford, like it or not, of the horizontal bars in the grille. I'm not crazy about the look either - but it'll grow on me probably. The rest of the truck looks the same, so I know it'll have the same basic characteristics that make it so universally appealing to the masses.

    I think you're wrong, but not altogether - there are some Ford designs that I can't abide and would not buy -

    The 96 Taurus
    The Contour
    The 98 Town Car
    The 94 Tempo
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,256
    geez... you and me in the foxhole again. i still think we are winning. ;)
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • red05exbauerred05exbauer Member Posts: 2
    I have suggested the solenoid. They keep telling me that the shifting is normal. When they do their check ride, they say, "Can not duplicate" on the work order. I did talk with a fellow 05 Explorer owner who said he had the same problem and they changed a sensor that went to the a servo on the tranny the kept the fluid moving. I'm new at these electronically control trannys. So I don't know if there is ever such a sensor or not. Thanks in advance for any additional replies.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    The 96 Taurus
    The Contour
    The 98 Town Car
    The 94 Tempo

    I'll agree on all except the Contour. I owned 3 of them. That 2.5 Duratec-WOW! what a motor! It would rev like crazy all day long. And the handling was very much of a "European flavor". Thank the Ford marketing department for the lack of volume on that car. Coupled with pricing it with in $1,500.00 of the Taurus..... :cry:
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    Well, I developed a little rule for warranty work on my Ex. After I've had it in twice for the same problem, and it isn't fixed, I ask for the service manager and work with him to resolve it. Be nice to him - he gets all kinds of people who vent at him.

    When you get a "cannot duplicate" the best thing to do is make sure you know exactly how to drive your car so you can recreate the problem whenever you want. I.E. same rpm's, same speed same gear - and voila the transmission slips.

    Then take the service manager for a ride and show him what the problem is.

    Once the service manager has verified your "concern" (thats a Ford word for maybe you have a problem, maybe you don't) usually the repair process will start pretty quickly.

    And long term its good to know the service manager on a first name basis.
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    I'm kind of guessing, but if you've been driving it two years with the OD light flashing, you probably haven't changed AT fluid or filter? Check your AT fluid - is it dark colored instead of a nice red? Does it smell burned? Post back with your engine / tranny info and perhaps you will get a little more detailed answer. There are differences between the 4 and 5 speed.

    Don't know what engine / trans you have, but you need to get all the old fluid out, making sure you drain the torque converter, change the filter ($25) and clean the pan magnet. If your Ex does not have a torque converter drain plug, then change your filter/ clean the pan, and take it to a shop and have them power flush it to get the rest of the old fluid out. do NOT power flush it without changing out the old filter first.

    Don't know if this will work, but for $100 or so its worth a try.
  • 70judge170judge1 Member Posts: 2
    where is it located?
  • 70judge170judge1 Member Posts: 2
  • airkristiairkristi Member Posts: 2
    Well I was told not to do that so I have been reluctant. I will get the engine/tranny info and thanks for your input. I am at a loss.
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    Lets try another approach:

    You have been driving your car with the overdrive light flashing for a long time, which is not good since that is trying to tell you that there is something wrong.

    If I understand correctly, your transmission shifts ok, and makes no noises, you just have to back off the gas to get to second gear or out of passing gear.

    It is possible that less than a rebuild is needed to repair it. Take it to a good transmission shop and have them read the codes the transmission is setting (it is setting codes when the O/D light flashes). There are parts in the tranny that can be replaced without a full rebuild. A good A/T mechanic usually has a good idea of what is wrong from your description of the problem. Write down the code numbers and the explanations for your reference. And don't be afraid to have two shops give you opinions.

    Then you can make the decision of whether repair or replace makes most sense. Or whether you have a new car payment instead.
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    59,000 miles ago Ford replaced my 1999 XLT 4WD Explorer's Firestone Wilderness tires with Goodyear Wrangler RT/S. The Goodyears served me well for the time they were on my Explorer. Although they still had some tread left on them, at 70,000 miles, I decided to replace them with Michelin Cross Terrain purchased at Costco. Since most tire problems start during the last few thousands of miles, I decided that this was the right time.

    Costco's price that included new valve, balancing, nitrogen gas, lifetime balancing, repair, rotation and road hazard coverage was very fair. Their service people were great. Two people checked the lug nuts with torque wrenches before they returned the truck to me.

    The biggest surprise came when I was driving home. The quiet, shock free ride was impressive. In addition to new tires, I got a new truck! Now if the tires live up to their ratings I should be a happy camper for a long time (assuming, of course, that the rest of the truck stays healthy!) .
  • brickboybrickboy Member Posts: 1
    our company just purchased a 2005 explorer 4 x 2. it was a ford rep car with 2800 miles. in the week we've had it, it is back at the dealer for the third time. the problem: when turning the key nothing happens...instrument panel and everything else works but it's as if the battery is disconnected..nothing happens. message center shows two problems: low oil pressure (gauge reads at bottom) and check advance track, which shows advance trak is off. of course when it is towed to the dealer it starts after an indeterminate length of time. dealer says computer shows no faults or history.. any ideas?
  • jpowell2jpowell2 Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone! I have a 98 Ford Explorer Sport with a 5 sp manual V6. I've been having problems shifting the past few months. It doesn't shift smoothly, and is really difficult going from neutral into 1st gear. I've also noticed the problem is worse in warm weather. Any ideas what the problem could be? Thanks!
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    "The quiet, shock free ride was impressive. In addition to new tires, I got a new truck! Now if the tires live up to their ratings I should be a happy camper for a long time."

    Those Michelins are the best tires for the Explorer...hands down. They are the most quiet and smooth riding tire I have experienced. However, you won't get the 60K or 70K out of then that they are rated. I took good care of them, and replaced them before 40,000 miles. :blush:
  • jdxltjdxlt Member Posts: 4
    I have a 98 explorer the 4x4 is not working it will go into low and high and show that the 4x4 is on, on the dash but the front wheels are not pulling. does any one have any sugestions for some things i could check before I take to the dealer and get shafted.

    thanks J.D.
  • levellanelevellane Member Posts: 1
    Hello i need help. I have a 2002 explorer with what i believe to be a grind in the front or rear wheels, this only happens when the car is hot and driven fairly hard. the grinding noise happens whe the car is going below the speeds of 5 mph in both forward and reverse. it has been to the dealer twice the first time they replced the coil wire ( yes the coil wire) , the second they rebuilt the whole drive train but still the bite and grind at this very low speed . the brakes are never pressed when getting this grind , and needless to say i am at a loss is this a possible transmis :sick: ion problem or a problem in the wheels plz if you can shed any light on this plz help
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    Doesn't sound like the ignition switch since everything else works, altho I suppose it could be an intermittent switch problem when turning to start position, but I don't think that is likely.

    There is a relay in the power box under the hood which controls power to the engine computer. These sometimes go bad and /or work only intermittently. Have the dealer swap this relay with another less critical relay in the power box. Or buy one ( $40 or so)and put it in the next time it won't start.

    there are only two different relay types in there, unless there is something new in the 2005.

    I suggest that because if the power to the computer fails, it won't record codes.
  • joxymjoxym Member Posts: 1
    I just want to know if someone could help me with some question that I been trying to figurate out. I asked a lot of mechanics about what is the OVERDRIVE function for.
    As you know all the explores and cars have this function always ON and they have a botton to turn it off.
    I just want some help to know when I have to turn it off and when I have to keep it on.
    Why Im asking this because I see that if I put O/D Off the truck feels like if it has more force, also Im asking this because I put some rims 20's and spinners and may be the rims are making the truck forcing more
    Please help me

    Thank You
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Have you put a booster pack on the battery when it won't crank? If you have a shorted out battery that's going up and down, it could be a faulty battery.
  • cplace25cplace25 Member Posts: 3
    The whining noise in the back wheel ended up being a VERY bad wheel bearing. I have a 5 speed V-8 transmission with automatic 4 wheel drive. The mechanic told me it does not move sometimes in the morning because of the automatic 4 wheel drive and I have to wait 30 seconds before shifting it into gear.
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    To get 4 wheel your transfer case must go to four wheel, and your front hubs must engage. I would start by checking your front hubs, since your dash lights seem to indicate the transfer case is going into four wheel.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    You can disengage the OD all the time if you want to, it won't hurt anything, just give you less mileage, and your transmission will probably last longer. You should disengage in stop & go traffic, especially with 20's on the truck. You should also disengage the OD in hilly or mountainous terrain.

    Another way to put it (if I used too many big words before) is, only leave the OD on if you're on the freeway going over 55 MPH.
  • robert60robert60 Member Posts: 2
    Having problems locating location on rear wheels to release emergency brake,
    allowing to replace rear rotors. Any help in this area would be greatly appreciated.
  • ford_girl1980ford_girl1980 Member Posts: 1
    Can someone please help me with this? I have a 1993 Explorer and for some reason when I am turning (either way) it's as though my steering wheel doesn't want to turn back and then my tires will keep turning in whatever direction I was turning in the first place. While I was just driving today it was like my truck pulled me to one side so I stopped and got out and noticed that even though my Steering Wheel was turned, my tires were still straight. I hope that this makes sense and any help would be appreciated.....
    Alignment.... Power Steering....?????????
    HELP!!! :cry::cry::cry:
  • mwall25mwall25 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I have a 98' Explorer XLT 4.0L SOHC w/ 51K 4WD. I had my front ball joints replaced three months ago but I think it is unrelated to my current problem. When I start the car and for the first couple minutes after I am driving an odd rattling noise comes from underneath the back of the car. I first noticed it when pulling into a sharp turn in a garage. It happens when the car is idle and stops soon after I drive it. It sounds like a New Year's ever noise maker, the ones you hold and spin the top, kind of a racheting sound. I know little to nothing about cars but the noise appears to be coming from a rounded box right before the drive train connects to the rear axle. Any thoughts??

    Thanx
  • elpcgringoelpcgringo Member Posts: 3
    I have about 150K miles on my Explorer and it is constantly giving a Cylinder 4 misfire code when the mechanic checks the check engine light. He has recently done a major tuneup and replaced all plugs, cables etc. What happens, is that during acceleration it will hesitate and seem like it has no power, as well as backfire/popping sound from engine. He noticed a white/gray powder near the exhaust manifold on the drivers side. He says it is cracked/leaking. Could this be the cause? I have asked him to guarantee that if he fixes this and it still gives a Cylinder 4 error code that he will not charge me to fix it for that reason. He is thinking about it further.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    You can't reasonably ask a mechanic to "guarantee" that a repair will correct a computer code error on a vehicle with 150,000 miles. You could have multiple problems. If the exhaust manifold is cracked, it could very well cause a misfire code. Regardless, it needs to be replaced.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    This is when you need to think about replacing the vehicle.......
    I would ask myself (realistically) how much more life is in this vehicle. :confuse:
  • robert60robert60 Member Posts: 2
    Could someone inform me of location of entrance of star adjustment
    to back off rear emergency brake to remove rotor?
  • timdoggtimdogg Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone,

    I have a 1995 Explorer XLT with just over 200,000 miles on it (whew!) I should have sold it earlier when it didn't have the problems it has now, but what can you do? The interior is great, exterior not so great but okay. The main problem with it is that the transfer case makes horrible noises—cricket like squeaking, crunchy grinding sounds at low speeds, and massive, deep vibration at high speeds. I don't know if I should try to sell it as-is for almost nothing, or get a new transfer case. I don't want to pay what it would cost to have my mechanic do the work, so I'm interested in finding out how to do it myself over the next few weeks. Please give me some feedback about this, thanks. :sick:
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    Yes, your should have gotten rid of it earlier. It looks like it's about done as far as it's "life expectancy" is concerned. Junk it, donate it, or sell it for parts. There is no question cars/trucks are expensive, I think there are people that keep their cars for too-long and then get in a situation where they are dumping good money in to a bad situation. Those are my thoughts! :sick:
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I believe there is no star adjustment. Only the cables are connected to the e brake shoes. Be sure you have slack in the e cables or take the cables loose.
    E.D.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    It could be dangerous to drive, probably a part has come loose or broken. Have it checked right away. Any shop that does front end alignments should be able to help you.
    E.D.
  • you1you1 Member Posts: 2
    No I did not receive any feedback. It does not appear to be a ball joint. Everything seems to be tight now in the front end after I replaced the tie rods.
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