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Comments
Jane
I'd get a second opinion.
Don't know if your looking to buy new or not....but here in Los Angeles, Eddie Bauers (Expeditions) can be had for 29,000.00 (List 41,000.00) If your looking to buy used-there are a TON of '02's out there due to the fact that the redesign was in '03 that gave the Expedition the same things as the Explorer (i.e. lower the floor and independent rear suspension). The '02's were a good vehicle. I would stay away from the '03's and look at the 04's if the budget calls for it.
Let us know! :shades:
The Sequoia has that Toyota thing going for it, although the early ones had their share of issues with air conditioning, brakes, and 4wd issues, I think they have them pretty well perfected now, you may have fewer problems with it than the Ford, but you should be happy with either. It comes down to the one that fits your needs, and likes the best.
I would stay away from the Nissan Armada though. Everyone I know who has one, has had horrible issues repeatedly with them.
Then, of course, there's GM. Ancient technology that works pretty well because, well, there's not much new there to go wrong with 'em. If you don't mind very plain interiors and don't ever look under the hood, you'll probably never notice you're driving a 20 year old design.
It is strange how a misfire turns into an engine needing a rebuild, especially after your mechanic did a major tune up on it. The compression should have been checked then, when the plugs where changed, especially with that many miles on the engine. If oil was leaking past your pistons, there would be signs of this, such as smoking out the exhaust pipe, excessive oil consumption, and low compression. It sounds to me like you have an incompentent mechanic or else he is taking you for all that he can. You better get a second and third opinon on this. You never mentioned any smoking or excessive oil consumption in your original post. Have you noticed any?
E.D.
First, if you do not find the problem, I would pull the ABS fuse or relay (under the hood). Your manual should tell you the location. Your ABS would be disconnected, but your brakes will stop normally otherwise - just like a regular vehicle with no ABS. I don't believe the ABS module is intended to be used at every stop, and it is a very expensive part (1,500 U.S.). This way you don't ruin that before you get things fixed.
Now, to the ABS:
It sounds as if your ABS is operating normally as far as stopping, but activating at the wrong time. That is probably a sensor problem. Here, the dealers use a "new generation STAR" tester to read the ABS fault codes and do various operating tests. Apparently your dealer does not have this, but I would ask. If they do not, they are limited as to the operating testing they can do, and that usually means they put in new parts till it works.
There are two front wheel sensors, and a rear sensor on the rear differential. The front sensors can be removed and replaced relatively cheaply - it might be smart to do this to rule out front sensors.
The rear sensor can be replaced easily as well, but there is a magnetized ring with teeth on it inside the differential. As each tooth passes the sensor, it creates the speed signal that the ABS monitors (using magnetic inductance). Many times the ring is the problem, and you must disassemble the rear differential to replace it, which is expensive.
You can replace the sensors (all three) for far less than L1,000 (we don't have the right key for pounds over here) you were quoted. If that fails, then pull the fuse and go without!
I would think there would be a Ford dealer in the U.K. that works on U.S. vehicles, perhaps London? You might call Ford U.K. and ask them to recommend a dealer with the equipment to work on your vehicle. I am sure they have a customer service number for the U.K.
Hope that helps somewhat!
E.D.
I've been told this is one of those things with this make! Any suggestions?
thanks! :mad:
As far as the Expedition is concerned, there is no better time to buy if one is in the market. Prices are VERY SOFT due to $2.00/plus gasoline prices.
Good luck!
2) If so, does this noise happen only with this A/C activated?
If the answer to the above is yes - you have a sticky expansion valve in the rear of the truck auxiliary evaporator. Good luck convincing your dealer, because it is hard to make it do it on demand, right? But I'm betting that's what it is.....
manner, file a complaint with the NHTSA/ODI, or other governmental agency having jurisdiction such state lemon law. There is little doubt that vehicles having problems
such as this have a reduced trade in value, due to the number of forums discussing this it is certainly gaining in notoriety.
If anyone has had success with FoMoCo in resolving their transmission problem with their 2004-2005 Explorer, please post how you accomplished it.
Respectfully'
Tickedoff2
Find another dealer. I know you say they've been great - but they haven't. If my dealer can rebuild my transmission for me, and Ford doesn't mind, why can't yours? Your dealer is screwing you, in my opinion - not Ford.
E.D.
The compressor can lock up because it gets damaged interally by trash in the system, it could be caused by a low oil charge, or faulty compressor or faulty accumlator.
Find out what he did, and what he did not do. Take this list with you.
1. Compressor and belt
2. Orifice tube
3. Accumulator
4. Possibly hoses if they are contaminated
5. Possibly the Cooling system or Fan system if the condenser is running hot
6. Leak test and Evacuate the system
7. Correct Oil Charge in the system
8. Correct Refrigerant Charge in the System.
E.D.
Or, have things changed recently?
Thoughts?
tidester, host
I am a mechanic and an Air Condition Tech, and I know EXACTLY what I am talking about.
I wrote: "The problem is NOT whether it is an Explorer or Expedition. It sounds like the clutch or the compressor is locking up, if it is burning the belt. The repairman needs to thoroughly flush and clean ALL of the inside of the A/C system, replace the Compressor, replace the Orifice Tube, replace the Accumulator, evacuate the system and charge the system with the correct amount and type of oil and refrigerant, then you won't have any more problems.
The compressor can lock up because it gets damaged interally by trash in the system, it could be caused by a low oil charge, or faulty compressor or faulty accumlator.
Find out what he did, and what he did not do. Take this list with you.
1. Compressor and belt
2. Orifice tube
3. Accumulator
4. Possibly hoses if they are contaminated
5. Possibly the Cooling system or Fan system if the condenser is running hot
6. Leak test and Evacuate the system
7. Correct Oil Charge in the system
8. Correct Refrigerant Charge in the System.
E.D. "
There is NO change about the refrigerant and the oil. The Refrigerant and the OIL have ALWAYS been separate components, even with the old r-12 refrigerants, even in your house A/C, even in your refrigerator. The refrigerant and the oil are both charged into the system, they circulate together though the system. The oil depends on the refrigerent to "blow" and circulate it through the system. When there is a leak in the system, some oil will leak out with the refrigerant. If the system is very low on refrigerant, the oil will not circulate, and most of the oil will be pumped out of the compressor and the oil will just lay in the low parts of the system, and the compressor will burn up due to lack of lubrication. If the system is evacuated, the refrigerant will be sucked out and whatever oil is left in the system will remain in the system as puddles at the low points. That is one reason for having the low pressure cycling switch on your system, usually on the accumulator. The low pressure switch cuts off the compressor if the pressure gets too low, usually around 20 to 22 PSI. Most factory A/C's use a 24 to 36 oz charge of 134a refrigerant and a 5 to 9 oz charge of PAG refrigerant oil. This will vary from vehicle to vehicle. Some conversion kits and A/C shops use an ESTER type refigerant oil, which is not as prone to absorb moisture.
Getting back to your problem, Your compressor is being destroyed by the crap from the old compressor. As I said, It MUST be flushed ABSOLUTELY CLEAN! I mean REALLY CLEAN Throughout! All of the crap from the compressor dumps into the CONDENSOR and may remain stuck in there. If they don't flush and clean the condenser perfectly, it will continue to release crap into the system and destroy the new compressor, which will again contaminate the system. Condensers are best REPLACED after the "BLACK DEATH" episode of the compressor failure. When repairing these types of A/C problems on Fords, it is best to replace everything except for the Evaporator. This is commonly called a "Fire Wall Forward Replacement". I have done several of these. The evaporator is easilest and safest to flush. Everthing else should be replaced with new. This work always cost over $1000, but if you want to fix it right. and want a problem free A/C for years to come, then you must Do the Job Right! Do you know specifially what parts they replaced? Be sure you know what he did, I suspect they did not put in a new condensor.
Believe me, A/C work is actually easy, You simply must do it Right, then you have no problems and no come backs.
About the Pancake Filter that they mentioned to you, those are very good, they are called a High Side In-Filter. He should have left it on the sytem as a permanent part. If you get a Firewall Forward replacement, at the same time, get one installed in the high pressure line between the compressor and the condenser. It will catch anything that comes out of the compressor BEFORE it gets into the condenser, and you system will remain clean. Sometimes they put the Pancake Filter in the line after the condenser, between the condenser and the orifice tube. The is helpful to keep the O-Tube from clogging up, but it still allows the condenser to eventually get clogged up. It is always best to put the Pancake Filter BEFORE the condenser. I did that on my Explorer, and never had any more problems. I used a Factory Air #34510 IN-LINE FILTER. They come in different sizes and different types of connections on the ends, so you have to get the one specifialy for your vehicle. Remember, the trash in the system is created in the compressor, created by wear in the compressor, and circulates with the refrigerant from the compressor, to the condensor, then to the screen on the O-Tube, where most of it gets trapped. The refrigerant oil turns very black, and when the O-Tube is pulled out, the O-Tube inlet screen is covered and clogged with this horrible black gunk. I have many many pictures to prove it. I can send you pictures of clogged up O-Tubes and pictures of In-line Filters. Try looking them up in the Internet.
Any Questions? I've tried to help as much as I can, the rest is up to you. Go back and reread my posts, print them out and take them to your mechanic.
Good Luck.
E.D.
and "sentence"
And you're correct. My sentences have been cryptic. Looking onto them would be well worth your time.
I have a strange rattling noise when my truck is idling. It dies not appear to imapct the operability of the truck. A mechanic who didn't want to open up the engine said it might be the timing chain or "guides" are loose and require adjustment. He said take it to Ford (he didn't want to do it). Has anybody ever dealt with this or know what to do with this? Can timing chains and guides be "adjusted" or repaired?
Thanks to anyone who knows!!!