Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

badshift · June 2005

i have a 1992 ford explorer 4 wheel drive stick.my problem is i was shifting from n. to first and nothing happend.i have good pedal and replaced the clutch 1 year ago.now i can start it up let the clutch out,and go thru all the gears nothing happens,not even a noise please help!

janeblackler · June 2005

Hi, I have just joined this forum and have a problem with my 98 Explorer, with 83,000 on the clock, when I want to stop the ABS cuts in and pulses my foot off the brake, this is happening nearly everytime I want to stop now. I have taken it to the Ford Dealer for a service and they could not find out what the problem is, originally it only did it when the wheels were turned slightly to the left, the left sensor was checked out and found to be ok, without going all through the car and they quoted me up to £2000 to do this, they can't tell what the problem is, has anyone else had this and if so what was the cause. The Ford Dealer suggested I contacted a Ford Garage in America to find out as they only have 6 Explorers on their books and none have had this problem!

Jane

tenach · June 2005

The overdrive is your final gear. it increases the gas mileage buy lowering your RPM's at a high speed. The "more force" feeling is the same as if you were to downshift on a manual transmission car. the OD should always be on unless you are towing in stop and go traffic. Also, buy changing the size of your tires, you have thrown the computer and transmission settings off. Technically you are going faster than the speedo says. You should invest in a chip or user friendly computer to hook up to your truck to change the settings. About $400.

elpcgringo · June 2005

The mechanic called me today and told me after removing the Exhaust Manifold he realized that the piston rings are bad and oil is leaking into the pistons. I am not a car buff by any means, but he said that the motor would need to be rebuilt which he didn't recommend considering the age and miles on the vehicle. Guess it is time to buy a new one. Any recommendations: Toyota Sequoia or Ford Expedition?

cruzenman · June 2005

I had my 96 Explorer XLT with 40300 miles in for inspection today. I failed, being told that I needed an "upper ball joint" on the passenger side. I was told that on my vehicle they had to replace the entire "control arm," that the ball joint itself could not be replaced. I know nothing about either of these. All I do know is that at $437.00 including labor, its quite expensive. Can someone please explain exactly what this part does, whether this is normal at 40000 miles and whether I am getting a fair price. Thanks in advance for your help.

bioman · June 2005

The upper control arms allows the front wheel to move during turns, going over bumps, etc. Upper ball joint is an integral part of the upper control arm and the entire arm must be replaced. The replacement is relatively simple, involves three bolts and a wheel alignment. If the rubber boot that surrounds th ball joint tore and the grease leaked out and water "leaked" in, it is quite possible for the ball joint to fail at 41K. The price you had quoted sounds a bit high. I believe that part costs about $80.00. So, that leaves hours for labor and the alignment.
I'd get a second opinion.

bioman · June 2005

The upper control arms allows the front wheel to move during turns, going over bumps, etc. Upper ball joint is an integral part of the upper control arm and the entire arm must be replaced. The replacement is relatively simple, involves three bolts and a wheel alignment. If the rubber boot that surrounds the ball joint tore and the grease leaked out and water "leaked" in, it is quite possible for the ball joint to fail at 41K. The price you had quoted sounds a bit high. I believe that part costs about $80.00. So that leaves hours for labor and the alignment.

chuck1 · June 2005

Any recommendations: Toyota Sequoia or Ford Expedition?

Don't know if your looking to buy new or not....but here in Los Angeles, Eddie Bauers (Expeditions) can be had for 29,000.00 (List 41,000.00) If your looking to buy used-there are a TON of '02's out there due to the fact that the redesign was in '03 that gave the Expedition the same things as the Explorer (i.e. lower the floor and independent rear suspension). The '02's were a good vehicle. I would stay away from the '03's and look at the 04's if the budget calls for it.
Let us know! :shades:

nvbanker · June 2005

Both are great trucks, IMO. The Expedition is larger, more powerful, and has a lot of features the Sequoia doesn't have, such as the fold flat 3rd row seats, independent rear suspension, 5.4L 3V 300hp engine. Personally, I like the looks of the Ford much much better, but that's all in what you like - I've never gotten excited over Toyota truck design.

The Sequoia has that Toyota thing going for it, although the early ones had their share of issues with air conditioning, brakes, and 4wd issues, I think they have them pretty well perfected now, you may have fewer problems with it than the Ford, but you should be happy with either. It comes down to the one that fits your needs, and likes the best.

I would stay away from the Nissan Armada though. Everyone I know who has one, has had horrible issues repeatedly with them.

Then, of course, there's GM. Ancient technology that works pretty well because, well, there's not much new there to go wrong with 'em. If you don't mind very plain interiors and don't ever look under the hood, you'll probably never notice you're driving a 20 year old design.

electricdesign · June 2005

You originally said: "I have about 150K miles on my Explorer and it is constantly giving a Cylinder 4 misfire code when the mechanic checks the check engine light. He has recently done a major tuneup and replaced all plugs, cables etc. What happens, is that during acceleration it will hesitate and seem like it has no power, as well as backfire/popping sound from engine. He noticed a white/gray powder near the exhaust manifold on the drivers side."

It is strange how a misfire turns into an engine needing a rebuild, especially after your mechanic did a major tune up on it. The compression should have been checked then, when the plugs where changed, especially with that many miles on the engine. If oil was leaking past your pistons, there would be signs of this, such as smoking out the exhaust pipe, excessive oil consumption, and low compression. It sounds to me like you have an incompentent mechanic or else he is taking you for all that he can. You better get a second and third opinon on this. You never mentioned any smoking or excessive oil consumption in your original post. Have you noticed any?
E.D.

exploded99 · June 2005

I am assuming that your ABS check light goes on when you start the car, and then shortly thereafter goes off. Make sure it lights when you start the car, so you know it is working. Then, if the ABS check light turns off, the ABS thinks it is ok.

First, if you do not find the problem, I would pull the ABS fuse or relay (under the hood). Your manual should tell you the location. Your ABS would be disconnected, but your brakes will stop normally otherwise - just like a regular vehicle with no ABS. I don't believe the ABS module is intended to be used at every stop, and it is a very expensive part (1,500 U.S.). This way you don't ruin that before you get things fixed.

Now, to the ABS:

It sounds as if your ABS is operating normally as far as stopping, but activating at the wrong time. That is probably a sensor problem. Here, the dealers use a "new generation STAR" tester to read the ABS fault codes and do various operating tests. Apparently your dealer does not have this, but I would ask. If they do not, they are limited as to the operating testing they can do, and that usually means they put in new parts till it works.

There are two front wheel sensors, and a rear sensor on the rear differential. The front sensors can be removed and replaced relatively cheaply - it might be smart to do this to rule out front sensors.

The rear sensor can be replaced easily as well, but there is a magnetized ring with teeth on it inside the differential. As each tooth passes the sensor, it creates the speed signal that the ABS monitors (using magnetic inductance). Many times the ring is the problem, and you must disassemble the rear differential to replace it, which is expensive.

You can replace the sensors (all three) for far less than L1,000 (we don't have the right key for pounds over here) you were quoted. If that fails, then pull the fuse and go without!

I would think there would be a Ford dealer in the U.K. that works on U.S. vehicles, perhaps London? You might call Ford U.K. and ask them to recommend a dealer with the equipment to work on your vehicle. I am sure they have a customer service number for the U.K.

Hope that helps somewhat!

silverford · June 2005

I have a Ford explorer 2005 , only 10,000 Km , I hear sudden noise from the rear that lasts for 1 or 2 seconds. I cannot say when it occurs , it is a strange sound from the rear and it happens once or twice a day. Any known problem similar to this ? I heard that there is a known problem in the differential system , what are the symptoms for it?

electricdesign · June 2005

Describe the sound in detail, a whine, a scape, a knock, a tick, a rumble, a squeak, a howl, ect. When does this happen and under what conditions, accelerating, braking, cruising, while moving or stopped, does sound seem related to vehicle speed, etc.
E.D.

fordexp1 · June 2005

anyone know of any recalls or problems ford has been having with the 2005 V6 explorer.

jmbil · June 2005

Can't pass DMV Inspection due to emissions. OBD monitor is not ready to make a determination. We have followed OBD/Readiness Driving Procedures twice. We also put 200 miles on since DMV failure. The OBD Monitor registers ready for everything except the Catalyst however the Oxygen sensor & Cat are all ok.

I've been told this is one of those things with this make! Any suggestions?

thanks! :mad:

sbexplorer · June 2005

My 95 Explorer V6 blew transmission fluid out the bottom while towing a light boat(under 2000 lbs) for the first time. Was driving for 3 hours The transmission is rebuilt and under warranty. I put more fluid after it cooled and there are no leaks but I havent towed since. I was towing up a single lane hill and the temp was 85 degrees. I will be taking it in to see whats wrong but was curious what could be the reason. Is this type of explorer not able to tow or do I need a transmission cooler and how much does that cost to install. Car has 135k.

explorerx4 · June 2005

what are the consequences? no registration renewal?

jmbil · June 2005

Yes no renewal.

bldaz2005 · June 2005

This month June 2005 this happend to me. 2002 EB 4WD V8 Exp. 22,500 on the clock, the Air cond quit blowing cold although the blower is working the AC wont. The Compressor seized and the belt burned somewhat(smell). The Dealer (still on warranty) replaced most parts said it was repaired and i took the truck. Three weeks later it quit again, same process. The dealer has had it for a week, service says they dont know what to do, Service manager says they are waiting for a part, goes off warranty in two months. I am thinking of an Expedition?

chuck1 · June 2005

As long as you are in the "process" of fixing a problem that has been identified, you should be alright even if your warranty runs out. Just make sure you document everything and make sure the service bill is accurate in regards to the repairs and/or complaints.

As far as the Expedition is concerned, there is no better time to buy if one is in the market. Prices are VERY SOFT due to $2.00/plus gasoline prices.

Good luck!

lateralg · June 2005

I think I have an answer, but don't want to venture a public guess.

nvbanker · June 2005

1) Does it have Rear A/C, the kind with controls on the rook and a separate blower with vents through the roof in the back?

2) If so, does this noise happen only with this A/C activated?

If the answer to the above is yes - you have a sticky expansion valve in the rear of the truck auxiliary evaporator. Good luck convincing your dealer, because it is hard to make it do it on demand, right? But I'm betting that's what it is.....

tickedoff2 · June 2005

My 2004 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC V6 Flex Fuel Engine, 5-speed O/D transmission. My transmission has serious problems also. Subject vehicle is one of those that had incorrect transmission fluid installed by FoMoCo at the time of manufacture and falls under FoMoCo Technical Service Bulletin, or Customer Satisfaction Program # 04B22 (Phantom recall) that directs the vehicle owner to have an additive added to the transmission fluid by a Ford service dealership. It would seem the additive was to correct "IMPROPERLY FORMULATED TRANSMISSION FLUID THAT, OVER TIME, MAY CAUSE DELAYED/HARSH REVERSE ENGAGEMENTS." Reference National Highway Traffic Safety Administration Office of Defects Investigation, NHTSA item # 10013306. My Explorer had started having both reverse, and forward, engagement problems, it was on a list of warranty items I was going to have checked out; due to receiving the 04B22 notice, I had the additive installed at a servicing Ford dealership as soon as I could. My vehicle has been back to the dealership four times since the additive was added, the problem of the unpredictable and violent, reaction when depressing the accelerator after shifting from drive to reverse or shifting from reverse to drive. Verbally, FoMoCo is refusing to do any more to correct the problem, one of their engineers that has never been in the vehicle has declared the transmission operation as being normal; I requested they put their position in writing they refused. The dealership has replaced parts and done whatever else FoMoCo directed them to do. The dealership has been great, FoMoCo is the problem, forcing me to file a complaint with the NHTSA/ODI; my understanding is that they have a number of complaints related to this already. My feeling is that there are many more FoMoCo manufactured vehicles out there with transmission problems. The 04B22 applies to model years 2004 and 2005. While my Explorer was in the shop last time, for ten days, I had a 2005 Explorer rental vehicle(2,450 miles) it occasionally engaged violently in reverse. If you have transmission problems with your 2004-2005 Ford Explorer I hope you have an extended service plan, thankfully, I do. Also, it is suggested that anyone having an Explorer still under warranty, not having their problem addressed in a reasonable
manner, file a complaint with the NHTSA/ODI, or other governmental agency having jurisdiction such state lemon law. There is little doubt that vehicles having problems
such as this have a reduced trade in value, due to the number of forums discussing this it is certainly gaining in notoriety.

If anyone has had success with FoMoCo in resolving their transmission problem with their 2004-2005 Explorer, please post how you accomplished it.

Respectfully'

Tickedoff2

nvbanker · June 2005

You need to find another dealer. My transmission in my 04 got bad before they discovered the "cure". My dealer rebuilt my transmission, no problem, no questions, no fuss, and gave me a Town Car loaner free while they did it. When I asked the Service Advisor about adding the additive, and if that would fix the problem, he just said, "Yours is already too far gone, we'll just rebuild this one for you". They did, it's been perfect since.

Find another dealer. I know you say they've been great - but they haven't. If my dealer can rebuild my transmission for me, and Ford doesn't mind, why can't yours? Your dealer is screwing you, in my opinion - not Ford.

electricdesign · June 2005

The V6 Automatic Transmission is not as strong as the V8 Automatic Transmission. The V6 Transmission can overheat easier. The fluid usually comes out the vent it it overheats. If you want to tow with it, you need to put a Large Transmission Fluid Cooler on it. An make sure your radiator and cooling system is clean and running cool. The transmission needs to run cool also. It is better to tow with a V8 Explorer.
E.D.

electricdesign · June 2005

The problem is NOT whether it is an Explorer or Expedition. It sounds like the clutch or the compressor is locking up, if it is burning the belt. The repairman needs to thoroughly flush and clean ALL of the inside of the A/C system, replace the Compressor, replace the Orifice Tube, replace the Accumulator, evacuate the system and charge the system with the correct amount and type of oil and refrigerant, then you won't have any more problems.
The compressor can lock up because it gets damaged interally by trash in the system, it could be caused by a low oil charge, or faulty compressor or faulty accumlator.
Find out what he did, and what he did not do. Take this list with you.
1. Compressor and belt
2. Orifice tube
3. Accumulator
4. Possibly hoses if they are contaminated
5. Possibly the Cooling system or Fan system if the condenser is running hot
6. Leak test and Evacuate the system
7. Correct Oil Charge in the system
8. Correct Refrigerant Charge in the System.
E.D.

lateralg · June 2005

I believe the lubricant for the compressor is the refrigerant, and there is no separate lube. If so, when out of refrigerant, then out of lube, and goodbye compressor.

Or, have things changed recently?

bldaz2005 · June 2005

Yes they did replace most of those items (not the belt though, i brought that up to him, They should change it, the belt will fail prematurely because of that compressor seize! right?). Dealer Changed out---Compressor, etc. was told "put in a whole new AC" Well it broke again, so much for that... Service Writer said Friday that he had (this is about the Second repair) a pancake filter put on and ran it (AC) for two hours took filter off and the unit quit, Compressor?. Service Writer says they dont know what to do next. I think they are still getting particles from the first Comp. Service Mgr 30 minutes later said they are waiting for a part, be in on Monday. My impression (After the first fix AC was not the same, used to be--like a meat locker, great in Southwest! Not anymore, took a long time to get cold and did not blow with same force, then of course it quit entirely. Explorer has been good up to now. I need a vehicle by the end of next week, going on driving vacation, this would pretty much suck if it does it while i am on the road.

bldaz2005 · June 2005

I dont get it, tell us.

bldaz2005 · June 2005

midas72 · June 2005

With the $5k rebate for 2005's and more safety features (advance trac and stability control) I am unsure of which model year to buy. Normally I would shy away from paying for the depreciation of a new vehicle but it appears the '03 lacks a couple key safety features. Maybe I hold out until the 2006's start to arrive for more discounts from dealer??

Thoughts?

tidester · June 2005

Please share your thoughts. Even if they don't pan out they may stimulate new ideas.

tidester, host

bldaz2005 · June 2005

Just my take--- But I think you will find that Ford will not give those high rebates for the upcoming model year. There will be a new V8 Explorer coming for 06, it will be using the Mustang V8, They will want to get inventory down for the upcoming model so i think they will keep the incentives high for 05's for at least the next month and a half until they whittle down inventory.

bldaz2005 · June 2005

Did you have an opinion on my repair?

electricdesign · June 2005

Excuse me, but did you not understand my message?
I am a mechanic and an Air Condition Tech, and I know EXACTLY what I am talking about.
I wrote: "The problem is NOT whether it is an Explorer or Expedition. It sounds like the clutch or the compressor is locking up, if it is burning the belt. The repairman needs to thoroughly flush and clean ALL of the inside of the A/C system, replace the Compressor, replace the Orifice Tube, replace the Accumulator, evacuate the system and charge the system with the correct amount and type of oil and refrigerant, then you won't have any more problems.
The compressor can lock up because it gets damaged interally by trash in the system, it could be caused by a low oil charge, or faulty compressor or faulty accumlator.
Find out what he did, and what he did not do. Take this list with you.
1. Compressor and belt
2. Orifice tube
3. Accumulator
4. Possibly hoses if they are contaminated
5. Possibly the Cooling system or Fan system if the condenser is running hot
6. Leak test and Evacuate the system
7. Correct Oil Charge in the system
8. Correct Refrigerant Charge in the System.
E.D. "

There is NO change about the refrigerant and the oil. The Refrigerant and the OIL have ALWAYS been separate components, even with the old r-12 refrigerants, even in your house A/C, even in your refrigerator. The refrigerant and the oil are both charged into the system, they circulate together though the system. The oil depends on the refrigerent to "blow" and circulate it through the system. When there is a leak in the system, some oil will leak out with the refrigerant. If the system is very low on refrigerant, the oil will not circulate, and most of the oil will be pumped out of the compressor and the oil will just lay in the low parts of the system, and the compressor will burn up due to lack of lubrication. If the system is evacuated, the refrigerant will be sucked out and whatever oil is left in the system will remain in the system as puddles at the low points. That is one reason for having the low pressure cycling switch on your system, usually on the accumulator. The low pressure switch cuts off the compressor if the pressure gets too low, usually around 20 to 22 PSI. Most factory A/C's use a 24 to 36 oz charge of 134a refrigerant and a 5 to 9 oz charge of PAG refrigerant oil. This will vary from vehicle to vehicle. Some conversion kits and A/C shops use an ESTER type refigerant oil, which is not as prone to absorb moisture.
Getting back to your problem, Your compressor is being destroyed by the crap from the old compressor. As I said, It MUST be flushed ABSOLUTELY CLEAN! I mean REALLY CLEAN Throughout! All of the crap from the compressor dumps into the CONDENSOR and may remain stuck in there. If they don't flush and clean the condenser perfectly, it will continue to release crap into the system and destroy the new compressor, which will again contaminate the system. Condensers are best REPLACED after the "BLACK DEATH" episode of the compressor failure. When repairing these types of A/C problems on Fords, it is best to replace everything except for the Evaporator. This is commonly called a "Fire Wall Forward Replacement". I have done several of these. The evaporator is easilest and safest to flush. Everthing else should be replaced with new. This work always cost over $1000, but if you want to fix it right. and want a problem free A/C for years to come, then you must Do the Job Right! Do you know specifially what parts they replaced? Be sure you know what he did, I suspect they did not put in a new condensor.
Believe me, A/C work is actually easy, You simply must do it Right, then you have no problems and no come backs.
About the Pancake Filter that they mentioned to you, those are very good, they are called a High Side In-Filter. He should have left it on the sytem as a permanent part. If you get a Firewall Forward replacement, at the same time, get one installed in the high pressure line between the compressor and the condenser. It will catch anything that comes out of the compressor BEFORE it gets into the condenser, and you system will remain clean. Sometimes they put the Pancake Filter in the line after the condenser, between the condenser and the orifice tube. The is helpful to keep the O-Tube from clogging up, but it still allows the condenser to eventually get clogged up. It is always best to put the Pancake Filter BEFORE the condenser. I did that on my Explorer, and never had any more problems. I used a Factory Air #34510 IN-LINE FILTER. They come in different sizes and different types of connections on the ends, so you have to get the one specifialy for your vehicle. Remember, the trash in the system is created in the compressor, created by wear in the compressor, and circulates with the refrigerant from the compressor, to the condensor, then to the screen on the O-Tube, where most of it gets trapped. The refrigerant oil turns very black, and when the O-Tube is pulled out, the O-Tube inlet screen is covered and clogged with this horrible black gunk. I have many many pictures to prove it. I can send you pictures of clogged up O-Tubes and pictures of In-line Filters. Try looking them up in the Internet.
Any Questions? I've tried to help as much as I can, the rest is up to you. Go back and reread my posts, print them out and take them to your mechanic.
Good Luck.
E.D.

nvbanker · June 2005

bldaz is correct - for about the first 6 months, Ford won't discount or incent much on the new model - after that, depending on how it's selling, they may begin to. You may want to go ahead and get your 03 now - and then in a year or two, go for the 06? I wouldn't count on any great discounts right out of the chute. In fact, dealers who discount brand new models, get their allocations cut, if the factory finds out.

badshift · June 2005

somebody help bad shift#3854 :

bldaz2005 · June 2005

Excuse me but i think you have read another post and mine thinking they are together, His reply was--(lateralg---" I think I have an answer, but don't want to venture a public guess".) That is to whom i was talking to and i believe the Host also. I Do not really care what the cause and repair are I AM NOT going to be repairing it, They (dealer) certainly wont listen to me as to what the problem is, Be serious i would hand them a written note as to what is wrong with the AC. MY thought is and another poster ( Chuck1- "GOT my original message"- ) is to get out of this unit into another while i am still under warrenty, i never said that they Exp & EXPY had anything in common, i was thinking i would trade in and move on possibly to the EXPY. Now you go back and RE-read my posts. Word of advise quit the coffee, sheese!

midas72 · June 2005

I was referring to further discounts on the 2005's...

nvbanker · June 2005

Oops - sorry.....

nvbanker · June 2005

Wish I could help you - but I know next to nothing about that transmission other than Mazda builds it for Ford, and it's usually very good and lasts forever. You might try flatratetech.com - if you're not getting any help here. Few people with Explorers have the manual. Or post it on the Ford Ranger forum - that transmission is used all over that line.

midas72 · June 2005

So NV, do you think the dealers might kick in more than $5k to rid themselves of 2005's as the new model begins to roll in?

lateralg · June 2005

Sorry to offend you with a sincere effort to save you money.

nvbanker · June 2005

A dealer doesn't want to have any of the old model on the dirt when the new ones arrive, if he can help it - so he should be motivated to deal like crazy on an 05. Unfortunately, Ford isn't so generous with their financing incentives on the leases of these leftovers, so you'll need to buy it, not lease it to get the good discounts, if the 06's are already there.

killowes · June 2005

I got a 94 explorer w/ 4.0 V6 I'm changing the oil and have no manual. Is it 4 or 5 qt. motor.

midas72 · June 2005

Oh I'll be buying it cash! The selection might not be as good, but I figure July and August will see some great reductions on 2005's.

bldaz2005 · June 2005

You've yet to say anything but criptic one line sentances to no one.

nvbanker · June 2005

You need 5 quarts with the filter change, and I certainly hope you're changing the filter.

lateralg · June 2005

It's "cryptic"

and "sentence"

And you're correct. My sentences have been cryptic. Looking onto them would be well worth your time.

christinaj · June 2005

Hello!

I have a strange rattling noise when my truck is idling. It dies not appear to imapct the operability of the truck. A mechanic who didn't want to open up the engine said it might be the timing chain or "guides" are loose and require adjustment. He said take it to Ford (he didn't want to do it). Has anybody ever dealt with this or know what to do with this? Can timing chains and guides be "adjusted" or repaired?

Thanks to anyone who knows!!!

Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles