Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

17980828485125

Comments

  • explorerworiedexplorerworied Member Posts: 5
    well, imagine this....

    i traded in a dodge durango, purchased a ford explorer, and now three weeks later, i'm driving a taurus (rental).

    you might want to reconsider.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    purchased a ford explorer, and now three weeks later, i'm driving a taurus

    ;) Well, at least you stuck with Ford! ;)

    tidester, host
  • wvjdtuckwvjdtuck Member Posts: 3
    I posted about increased transmission fluid and decreased transfer case fluid. no response #4080 Can anyone help? Is it possible it is a bad seal? Is this easy to replace?
    thanks
  • alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    have no idea, sorry :confuse:
  • fordexp1fordexp1 Member Posts: 14
    whats wrong with your new explorer??
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Member Posts: 245
    i have seen the digital miles to E to be extremely accurate.
  • idntnvuidntnvu Member Posts: 254
    Last Friday night, I traded in the Orange '99 Explorer for a red '02 Durango R/T. I have to tell you though, it was tough to find anything as comfortable as the old Explorer was. I tried out several Durangos until I found this one. It had just been traded in that night by a salesman at the dealership. His wife had to have a new HHR. It had less than 37k miles on it, now has about 37,230. I was visiting my sister in NC, and I shopped in Lexington, Salisbury, Thomasville, Greensboro, and found this one in High Point. Like I said, it was hard to find something that fit me as well as the Explorer had. But, I knew it had to go, and heres why:

    The #4 spark plug had misfired again. Upon close inspection of the mechanic (different one than where I used to go), he discovered that the plug wasn't fouled by oil, but rather by gas or antifreeze. It was only a matter of time before it did it again. I probably would've just had a blown head gasket or it could've been warped heads, or onto another laundry list of other problems. Also the transmission had begun to slip frequently and had started to grind when downshifting to go up a hill. I have to say I will miss it, especially when I start going to the gas pump more often, however my explorer had never gotten very good mileage, usually 13/17. The R/T is rated at 12/17.

    I've enjoyed sharing experiences with you guys over the past couple of years and I will continue to check in once in a while. Hope everyone else is doing well!
  • stv2stv2 Member Posts: 1
    I got to pull the trans on my 4whl drive and was wanting to know if I can pull the trans without pulling the bellhousing and tourqe converter?
  • erniepowererniepower Member Posts: 5
    I am having problems with my 93 explorer. The push button 4wd would not engage ate either level. I took the electric motor apart and cleaned the brushes, spindle as well as the disk and contacts inside the adjustable part that you need the special torx bit to open, and now the truck will shift into 4 high but not low. The switch light next to the 4 high switch is on very lightly all the time. it is so light that you can't see it unless it is dark out. When I push the button, it lights up really bright and it shifts into 4 high. I took the electric motor off again and tried to push the buttons and the motor won't move at all with the 4 low switch. but works fine with 4 high.

    This makes me think that the switch might be bad since either the faint light is supposed to be on all the time on both buttons, or off all the time. right now they don't match. I went to a junk yard and picked up a switch and replaced it but it didn't change anything. I am running out of ideas. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    We'll miss you nvu. I knew that Orange was a Lemon. Sorry it treated you badly. Now, the next guy who buys it, will experience the worst it has to offer - and say, "I'll never own another Ford for the rest of my life!" And one more die hard Toyota fan will be born.......
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Try rebooting the truck - disconnect the battery terminal for a few minutes.
  • erniepowererniepower Member Posts: 5
    ok well i found a reset switch in the back where the jack is stored. I pressed it and the motor all the sudden started working in 4 low. the faint light is still on but everything seems to be working ok. Is this light normal?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    You're back in business. Don't know about the light - I had the same problem, and I wouldn't call it normal, but if it's working - that's not bad for a 13 year old truck.
  • waltskiwaltski Member Posts: 3
    My daughter's '96 Explorer has suddenly developed a " whining noise in all gears except neutral and 4th..... no fluids are leaking and the tranny fluid was changed around 2,000 miles ago ( vehicle has 110,000 miles) ..... truck still runs well except for this disturbing noise from the front of the truck..... it doesn't appear to be universal joints as the truck runs smooth, it also shifts easily and the gears/ clutch engage smoothly ....I'm thinking transfer case, although, 4 wheel high and low engage properly and the noise doesn't change ...... ANY OTHER IDEAS as to the source of this new noise?
    Thanks!

    Walt
  • gyjcgyjc Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2004 Explorer Sport 2WD. I had the whining noise at 45-60mph. When I took it to the shop I was told that the Ring Pin and Gear Assembly was bad. It was replaced. However, since I got it back I now have a "rumbling noise" at 60-65mph. I was told that the tires were going bad.(it has 15,000 miles on it, come on) Can someone tell me what else it could be? Where else should I be looking?

    Thanks
  • axsomaxsom Member Posts: 11
    Thanks. The following comments are kind of lengthy but will be of interest to anyone that has ANY KIND of issues after a warranty has ended.

    While waiting for a response to my initial posting, I continued researching the name of the warranty. I found it via a GREAT website . . . www.carbuyingtips.com
    Jeff Ostroff has tons of info on his site. I ended up emailing him my question because I didn't see it already posted on his site. He responded w/in 30 min!

    It is also called the Secret Warranty (Hmmm, "secret" because they don't want YOU to know about it) or a Goodwill Adjustment. When I called to make the appointment to take my 2002 Explorer in, before I told them anything, I asked if they were aware of any problems with the ABS. I was told they were and it was a speed sensor problem on the rear wheels. I asked if that would be taken care of because they were aware of it, despite the fact my warranty ran out only 30 days prior (go figure!). The immediate answer was, "No. Anything after warranty is not covered." I said, "Even if the manufacturer is aware of the problem they won't cover it?" I told him I had read about the Secret Warranty and Goodwill Adjustment and wondered if this would apply in my situation. Only at that point, he said he would have to contact Ford to see what they say. He asked if I had my car serviced there regularly. I do. He said they would want to know that, too.

    I made my appointment to drop it off the next morning. In the meantime, I researched Technical Service Bulletins for this problem and found 2 which listed the problem codes, too. They only had the car 40 minutes and I received a call. The problem is exactly as they had said the previous day - rear wheel speed sensor. I asked if he could tell me what codes showed up as a result of my ABS light coming on. He said it wasn't really a code and he continued to explain the charges (same guy I had talked to the day before) it would be $153 parts & labor. He made no mention of the Goodwill Adj or Secret Warranty, so I asked him again about that and reminded him he said he was going to call Ford. He said he had a call into them and was waiting to hear back from them. I asked how it would work if they decided to cover - he said they will pay UP TO 80%. I told him to go ahead with the work - it needed to be fixed regardless.

    About 3 hours later, he called back and said Ford will be paying 80%, leaving me w/ about $30 + we had an oil change. Hmmm, good thing I asked, huh? When my husband went to pick it up, he was told at the cash register $21 and change. Apparently, the girl did not see the 2nd sheet showing the $30. She took it to another guy, he showed her, she came back to the register and said, "We are only going to charge you for the oil change because I missed charging you for the other work." or something to that degree. WOW, way to go customer service at the Ford dealership!!!! I was very pleased they acted that way, of course; however, when I looked at the receipt that had the explanation of the problem - low and behold, there were the exact same codes as were on the TSB that I had asked them about when he told me there weren't really any codes. HMMM.

    IT PAYS TO DO YOUR HOMEWORK!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    AWA has been around for years, but still isn't well known:

    The Secret Warranty: (AKA) After Warranty Assistance (AWA)

    The real secret, besides the age of and miles on your car, often boils down to your relationship with your dealer or service writer. I used it in the mid-90's for an out of warranty head gasket repair on my Plymouth and got most of the repair paid.

    You may be interested in this older thread:

    driftracer, "Secret Warranties" #2, 4 Jun 2004 10:17 am

    Steve, Host
  • imkimz2imkimz2 Member Posts: 1
    I can drive my truck, park it, come back a few minutes later and it won't start. The engine will turn with power (not slow), but it won't catch and start. All the lights and power features work fine during this, so I know it's not the battery. I know I'm not supposed to pat the gas, but sometimes I do just to see if that gets it started...but it doesn't. Then out of the blue, it'll start up again. Usually if sits over night, it starts right up. I read a previous post about after the vehicle is hot, it won't start. Not sure if this is the case with mine or not. I'd just like to have any suggestions as to what the problem could be before I spend money on a diagnostics check. And this does not happen every time I drive it. The last couple of times I've drove it, it starts up instantly. Please help!!
  • 01explorerxlt01explorerxlt Member Posts: 2
    Squirting WD40 in all the latches removed the extra effor required to open the doors, and it also cured the sticking door lock on the drivers side.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,256
    you did your homework which is good. the dealer went to bat for you and got your awa. then you stiff them for 30 bucks?
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • 94xlt94xlt Member Posts: 1
    I'm on this site for the same reason. My wife does not trust our 94 Explorer. Even though it has always started again, you just need to wait a few minutes. It seems like a fuel problem. I was thinking fuel pump or filters? We have 61000 miles on it and bought it last summer . Everything else is fine. Just puzzled by this quirk.
  • explorerworiedexplorerworied Member Posts: 5
    i drove about 12 miles, and the digital counter went from 332 to 300...
  • hkawolfhkawolf Member Posts: 1
    94 Ford Explorer XLT 4WD - Mileage 118K
    No major repairs. Minor repairs: (1) water pump, 75K; (2) heater relay switch, 105K

    Three weeks ago, my Explorer had check engine light come on. Multiple error codes from all different components that could not be read using EEC-IV hub under the hood, but manually extracted with self-test mode off utilizing blinking "check engine" light -- long story short... replaced ECU with remanufactured Ford computer and no problems with ECU or electrical system since (runs better than when new).

    Now, one week later yellow ABS warning light on intermittently (ABS light comes on when cranked, then off, then on when in motion - i.e. no software issue) only in late afternoon and never in morning and may go 4-5 days with no ABS light on at all. I have checked fuses, connections, grounds, master cylinder fluid level -- all normal.

    Checked ABS codes at a trusted mechanic shop: only one code (63) ABS Pump/Motor Failure, not wheel speed sensor as I suspected.

    Question:
    Is this possible or even probable? Could it be a bad relay? I do not want to spend $1000 to replace ABS Pump/Motor assembly on a vehicle worth $1500, and, if necessary, I will probably continue to drive it without ABS working and forego the expense. Please help me with this...

    No one other than mechanic replacing ECU has performed any work on this vehicle and, to my knowledge, it has not had any energy surge (i.e. lightning). I'm clueless regarding why this has happened.

    Thanks
  • explorerworiedexplorerworied Member Posts: 5
    My fuel gage stopped working, the service engine light was on, and when the dealership ran diagnostics on it, the ABS system had a code too. the vehicle only has 800+ miles on it. initially i was told the instrument cluster was bad. The part was on back order and i wouldn't have my vehicle for three weeks, with three other explorers waiting for the same part. The dealership gave me a taurus rental, and when i came back from vacation a week later, i received a call the my vehicle was ready.

    I was told it wasn't the instrument cluster, but a faulty sensor, which was replaced. The dealership said they were using the wrong diagnostic equipment to test my vehicle???
  • tmareshtmaresh Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem with my 93 SHO. It started out as a problem on on hot days, then got worse and worse as time passed.

    For me, the problem was the camshaft position sensor. It tells the computer how to coordinate the fuel injection, since that is all computer controlled.

    I would bet that will be the solution for you.
  • tmareshtmaresh Member Posts: 2
    I just replied to someone else with this issue.

    I had the same problem with my 93 SHO. Turned out to be a bad camshaft position sensor. If it doesn't work properly, the computer can't determine how to coordinate the fuel injection on startup.
  • axsomaxsom Member Posts: 11
    I did not "stiff them". I was elated and willing to pay my 20%. They just deducted it on their own. When the girl at the register said $21 (oil change), the guy at the other counter told her that wasn't right. She took it over to show him and when she came back she said it would only be the $21. Maybe they have a policy that if they tell the customer the incorrect price, then they stand behind the price given. I don't know. Also, I don't feel that he actually "went to BAT for me". He called and asked the manufacturer a question. Which is called customer service and is well within the realm of my expectations from my dealership. At this point, I feel that they have gone over and above by wiping off the $30 bucks, and I will not forget their generosity. Also, I will pass on to others my great experience with the dealership for everyone to see, which was my intention in my initial posting.
  • scottybkscottybk Member Posts: 3
    Hello All

    I am in the process of trying to pick up a used ('97 or '98) Mountaineer. My father suggested I look at the Explorer instead since the Montaineer is AWD and the Explorer is 4x2 / 4x4 and the weather is rarely that bad around here (western Oregon). Dad said AWD has a lot of unnecessary parts moving all the time so they would be more prone to wear, whereas the 4x2 / 4x4 Explorer would be in 4x2 most of the time cutting down on wear and tear. What do you guys think? Is Dad right? God I hope not!

    Thanks for sharring any info

    Scott
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,256
    let's see if that cashier is still working there next tiem you go in for service.
    the dealer did 'go to bat' for you. awa is a judgment call.
    i have been buying and servicing at the same dealership for quite a while.
    if they screwed up and i really should have owed them more money, i would have paid it. after re reading your posts, i can see that you may feel this was not unusual, but i think it was. sorry if i was accusatory in my post.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,256
    back in '97 i bought a v8 awd explorer. the v6's had the 2wd/4wd/high,low setup. when i bought it they gave a good discount because of the v8, when i traded it in, they gave me a big chunk more money, because the awd had many less problems than the selectable setup. the 4x4 components when seldom used, can be a pain.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • jchasejchase Member Posts: 2
    my 94 explorer stalls from time to time while waiting at lights. weather has no effect. there are no codes stored. has anyone had this problem?
  • jdxltjdxlt Member Posts: 4
    I have a 98 explorer it has auto 4x4 and it is not working it has never made any noise and no check ingine lights have came on, the 4x4 light come on it does shift into low but the front wheels do not pull!! It has a 4405 borge warrner in it. I have checked the voltage to the clutch it is less than 2 when in 4x4 low. I also had a mechanic hook up to computer and it is showing 0 for drive shaft speeds when driving down the road. O.K. does anyone have any solutions or segestions.
    Please help!!!
    J.D.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Your Dad is correct in what he said about the function of the two trucks. However, I wouldn't be afraid of the Mountaineer if that's what you want. They hold up fine, but don't have a 4Low or 4High option - they're in 4 all the time. Lots of Jeeps are the same, you know...
  • scottybkscottybk Member Posts: 3
    First of all thanks to the people who replied to my request for info regarding the AWD vs 4x4, much appreciated. Another question that has come up is wheels. I have a shot at some 2002 Mountaineer alloy take-offs, they're 16x7, 5 on 4.5 lug pattern with a 44mm offset, would these fit a 1997 Mountaineer of is the offset to great, if it is can it be overcome or should I look elsewhere? I don't want to get into 17" or 18" but the stock 15" are just to small for me.

    Thanks for any info you can provide

    Scott
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    They may, but try them first, because the 2002 is a completely different truck. Ford doesn't use a lot of bolt patterns like GM does. With GM, the wheels from an Astro won't fit a Safari, believe it or not, but these may. Just not sure. 02 was the year of the big change.
  • stilersfanstilersfan Member Posts: 1
    mtnman1, did you ever get this resolved? I own a 2004 Explorer (V6) and this chirping is starting to drive me nuts. Any help would be appreciated...there's only so much of this I can take.
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    Dying at idle and no check engine light or other engine issues, then you are usually talking the idle air control valve. They are 50 bucks or so, and easy to do yourself. Search on the internet for replace explorer idle air control valve, you will find details if you need them.
  • rc4rc4 Member Posts: 1
    THE 4X4 DASHBOARD BUTTONS - AUTO 4X4 , 4X4 HIGH , 4X4 LOW STOPPED WORKING . CHECKED ALL FIVE 4X4 FUSES FOUND TO BE OK . THE EXPLORER RUNS IN 2X4 MODE WITH NO FRONT WHEEL PICK UP WHEN A REAR WHEEL SLIPS . EVERYTHING ELSE WORKS FINE AT 66K MILES .
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    Other things to check are the vacuum lines coming off of the intake manifold and the EGR valve. If the EGR valve is stuck in the open position, the engine will stall. A vacuum line leak will lead to rough idle and stalling.
  • fordcrazy3fordcrazy3 Member Posts: 1
    Maybe the ignition key is going bad. By that I mean that the chip in the key has been altered or is just old. Does it not start with a different key? I had this problem on other cars with security chips in the key. What do you think?
  • 3dawg3dawg Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2002 explorer. The only problems I have had with the vehicle have been in the last couple of months. The EGR valve has been replaced, the cruise control switch on the brake has been replaced, and most recently the rear seals have begun to leak. All of these issues I have seen repeatedly in these forums and possible recalls on them. Can anyone advise as to the best way to pursue Ford to consider these recalls further.
  • alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    EGR valve was already recalled or they extended the warranty on it. For the other 2 items, I just don't think Ford is going to do anything about it. I went to the NTHSA site and saw a bunch of complaints about the rear end leak and if they're going to do anything about it, they would have already.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,256
    i don't think the rear seals (side?) are going to be 'recalled'. how many miles do you have on your '02? if less than 50k, and you have a good relationship with the dealer, you might get an 'awa'. i have an extended warranty and paid my 50 bucks. i think that is the first time i used it.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • alphaboalphabo Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Ford Explorer, Eddie Bauer, 5.0L V8. After driving through water puddles it appears to lose power steering capability. i.e., it steers but it's very hard to turn. The water puddles are not very deep, but enough to create a splash projecting 8-10 feet. Vehicle speed is less than 30 MPH. The engine does not lose power and other than hard steering, all other vehicle mechanical and electrical systems operate normally. After about 30 seconds to 2 minutes steering returns to normal. The vehicle has 107,000 miles. This has happened on 3 separate occasions during or immediately following heavy downpours.

    Does anyone have an idea what could be causing this situation?
  • subienewbie2subienewbie2 Member Posts: 458
    Check the power steering belt it may be loose or worn.

    When the water splashes on the belt it may cause it to slip until it drys off a bit.
  • ttchipsterttchipster Member Posts: 1
    Suddenly my A/C and Heater fan will only work on the highest speed. Setting it to any of the 3 lower speeds allows air to flow, but there is no blowing. When I put it to the top speed, the fan comes on at the very high/loud speed that it always has at that setting. This is better than nothing in the current Alabama August heat, but the noise gets annoying.

    Anyone know why only 1 speed of the fan would work? Is there a separate fuse or belt or actually 2 fans? It's a 1996, 120K miles and has been pretty good for me.

    Thanks.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I had the exact same problem on my 97. I new belt fixed the problem.
    E.D.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Check the fuse first, then the fan speed resistor and the speed switch and the wiring between them. Resistor is located on the evaporator case under the hood near the fan motor. It will have a harness with several wires plugged into it. Unplug the harness, with the AC and fan turned on to the lower speeds, check for power at the harness connector. If no power, the problem is upstream from there, check fuses and connections. If you do have power, remove the small screws and carefully remove the resistor. When you get it out, it will appear to be small wires coiled up. Check to see if any are broken or touching each other. If any are broken, replace it with a new one. Turning the speed switch should make a different wire "hot" in each switch position. If you find no problem there, and the resistor is in good shape, you will have to check all the connections, you might need help from an electrical guy.
    E.D.
  • alphaboalphabo Member Posts: 2
    Thanks!! I'll give that a try this weekend.

    alphabo
  • bmartin1bmartin1 Member Posts: 2
    The chirping is probable your muffler. It has a hole in it and needs to be replaced.
Sign In or Register to comment.