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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mi_satmi_sat Member Posts: 42
    I have a small ding from a rock on the hood of my Explorer. It is approximately 1/16" in diameter. There's just a slight bit of rust starting, and I'd like to get it touched up.

    Any tips? Can I do this myself, or is there some type of surface prep I need to be concerned with before touching it up?

    Thanks
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    are your cruise control buttons mounted on the wheel?

    sounds like something they call a "clock-spring". it is a device that maintains continuity in electrical circuits while the wheel is turned from one extreme to the other.

    wires from the CC, horn and Air Bag probably connect to the clock-spring, and the clock-spring connects to one of the wire harnesses.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Check out Paint and Body Maintenance & Repair.

    Steve, Host
  • aaaaaaaaaa Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem with my 2000 XLS. Everything I have read points to cleaning or replacing the idler air control (IAC) valve. I am planning to do this tonight. I will let you know how it worked.
  • will18will18 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 ford explorer AWD V8. In the past i have had problems with the car idleing at the right number of RPMs when started, usually after wet weather. A quick fix was to just give it gas when i cranked it. The car has never stalled or anything while it was running. Now when I went to start the car today it wouldnt idle right even after i gave it gas and tried to crank it about 16 times. There was also a slight squeeking noise when it ran at low RPMs. It usually cranks to and idles around a little over a thousand, today I could barely get it to idle over 250 RPMs. When I tried to put the car in gear and reverse it, it shut down. I think it has something to do with the fuel pump or injection as all the elecrical works and the serpentine belt is in line. It just wont maintain a constant idle high enough to drive on. Can anyone tell me what I can do, what is wrong, or if I need to head to the auto shop?
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,256
    hey chuck, just wanted you to know that i checked my gas mileage over the last 3 tanks. 1023 miles, 54 gallons.
    regarding peoples transmissions issues, i have an '02, had the flush done at 30k. it was worth it. prior to that i had a reflash done, but that didn't seem to make any difference.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    I would start by cleaning the mass air flow sensor and the idle air control valve. Use a good quality throttle body cleaner. Instructions can be had by searching the web. Not difficult, but to get the MAF out you need an anti-tamper socket. Some auto parts stores have them. Replace your fuel filter while you are at it. A fuel line disconnect tool is needed, also at the parts store. Buy a cheap plastic set and use the 3/8 size.

    After you get them cleaned, see how it idles. If its better but sttil not right, then you probably would want to replace the IAC - it often causes poor idle. The fact that you were able to get it to start by giving it a little gas means it could be the IAC - this opens the throttle plate, and effectively bypasses the IAC. You do not have a check engine light, and that also points toward the IAC - they do not set a trouble code.

    If the problem does not improve, you will be looking for another problem. Don't replace the fuel pump without getting a fuel pressure test - its over 200.00 Quite a few people try this , and it does not always fix the problem.

    Start with the simple stuff, and work your way up.
  • aaaaaaaaaa Member Posts: 3
    I tried cleaning the IAC valve with no luck. I replaced it with a new one $50.00 and it works like a champ.
  • fireriderfirerider Member Posts: 1
    Hey folks, wife driving the other day and SES dash light appears. I go to Auto Zone and had codes pulled.
    POSSIBLE CAUSES
    P0455
    (1) LOOSE FUEL CAP
    (2) EVAP CANISTER HOSE CRACKED
    (3) PURGE OR VOLT SOLENOID DEFECTIVE
    (4) VACUUM LEAK AT ENGINE

    Anyone have a similar episode and could maybe point me in the right direction, what was your remedy..?

    Checked cap--seems okay.
    Evap hoses seem okay--hard to tell.
    I havent checked #3 & #4 yet.
    thanks everybody, Rich
    GREAT SITE BY THE WAY...HOPE I'M HERE FOR A LONG TIME, AS I'M LOOKING TO PURCHASE THE NEWLY REDISIGNED AND LARGER SPORT TRACK...
  • slydogslydog Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem. It is identified as the famous ford "Moosing" sound. I too cleaned mine, however cleaning it did not solve the problem for long. After about 2 weeks the sound was back. The noise is coming from the the little small black cap which is actually a filter located on the IAC valve.. You can clean it but due to age the the foam inside will clog up the hole again. I just went to ADVANCE auto parts and purchased a new one for $47.00. No more "Moosing"
    If you pull the black cap off, the moosing will go away, but if you put your finger over the hole that supports the black cap, your XLS will sound like you just installed a moose horn. Hope this helps.

    Sly
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    No dipstick is literally by necessity - with the V-8, there was no way to route a dipstick tube to the surface from below - so, the transmission is "sealed for life" - which should under normal circumstances be about 100,000 miles.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    "sealed for life" - which should under normal circumstances be about 100,000 miles.

    Yea, and if I am not mistaken-there is no mention of a fluid change for 100,000 miles either. Wait this long and you will have a piece of junk for a transmission. If the tranny is "sealed for life"- then Ford should warrant it for such. Unlike you, (and me) some people keep their vehicles for 150,000 miles plus- there is a chance they will leak (some-not a lot) and there is no way to refill these things. It is a really BAD IDEA- not to have a dipstick or a practical way to "top it off" if needed.
  • lateralglateralg Member Posts: 929
    I think it's a really BAD IDEA to have a route (dipstick) for contaminants to enter the transmission.

    In the big picture I believe more transmissions fail due to contamination than leakage. Leakage can be detected. Contamination's warning is transmission failure.

    "Wait this long and you will have a piece of junk for a transmission."

    What is this statement based on? Hopefully it's based on fleet and durability tests on a large number of vehicles operating in a wide variety of duty cycles ... which is what Ford based their decision on.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    In the big picture I believe more transmissions fail due to contamination than leakage. Leakage can be detected. Contamination's warning is transmission failure.

    There are millions of car with automatic transmissions that HAVE DIPSTICKS. The amount of contamination that would enter in to a dipstick is very, very small. There have been many on this board (including myself) that have drained and refilled this "sealed for life" transmission at 30,000 miles, and have noticed a greatly improved shifting of the transmission. So it would seem that "sealed for life" is flawed in real world driving.
  • gatoroid37gatoroid37 Member Posts: 2
    i have the same problem with my 95 fords ranger and from reading these forums it sounds possible that its the mass air flow sensor.needs cleaning with a solvent. my mileage cut almost in half to approx 165 miles per tank(2.3 4 cyl) was getting 300 -350 miles per tank
  • lateralglateralg Member Posts: 929
    You "drained" it? How? How did you refill it? Are you aware of the proper procedure for replacing the transmission fluid?
  • mi_satmi_sat Member Posts: 42
    Thanks :)
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    "You "drained" it? How? How did you refill it? Are you aware of the proper procedure for replacing the transmission fluid?"

    My were getting "picky" here. This service was done at the dealer. You should know there is no way you can service this transmission in your driveway...... :)
  • millerfmillerf Member Posts: 1
    Sounds like you know what you're talking about.

    I have a V6 '98 Ford Explorer.

    My brake lights don't work, but the collision avoidance light does, as do the back lights.

    The doors lock, sometimes, when I use the turn signal.

    Could my problem be the multifunction switch?
  • lateralglateralg Member Posts: 929
    Sorry, I guess I read too much into your statement:

    " ... There have been many on this board (including myself) that have drained and refilled this "sealed for life" transmission ...

    I'm concerned that some of the do-it-yourself types could do the same.
  • first_suvfirst_suv Member Posts: 1
    I have finally purchased my first SUV. It is a 2003 Explorer SLT sport. Further to my reviews of consumer reports, 2003 was the highest and best year I could afford. This vehicle came with a very reasonable price; it is fully loaded and spotless. The price is at least 10-15 cheaper than the average price. We have checked the vehicle history over the internet and it showed clean. The dealership told me that they had to get rid of this SUV since it was sitting in their lot for almost 2 months. It is a lease return from Ford Credit and I am paying the same money the dealership paid to Ford Credit. He showed me the invoice and his sales contract. Because the car was in mint condition and spotless I asked the dealer to put a condition on the sales contract. The contract clearly states that if a 3rd party registered mechanic gives a report to me about the accident status of this vehicle and if this report says that this vehicle got involved in a major accident I have the every right to claim my money back. The dearlership said he had no problem in adding this condition in the contract so he could get his money back from Ford Credit as well.
    The test drive was a good one accept for the brakes. He told me that the vehicle needed new brakes and they would fix it before the delivery. The break light was also on.
    Any ideas why the break light was on? I have only 7 days to challange this contract. Any hint you can provide will help a lot. What else should I do to protect myself? They have also added 30 days powertrain warranty...
    This is my first SUV please post alot of answers

    Thank you very very much
  • jdxltjdxlt Member Posts: 4
    I have a 98 got this same code it was the fuel cap it only has to be lose for a minute to get this code once the cap is tightened the code will remain until it is cleared ( undo the battery for a couple of min.) and hook back up.
  • jdxltjdxlt Member Posts: 4
    I have a 98 xlt the 4x4 is not working it will go into low and high but front wheels are not pulling. Have had no noises of any kind, it has a borge warner 4405 any sugestions. J.D.
  • phylliszphyllisz Member Posts: 1
    For almost two years now, my Explorer has stalled at Idle. I can always tell when it is about to because it sort of shimmies and chugs. Putting it in neutral doesn't always prevent it from stalling, but it helps often. It doesn't happen every day - I have even gone months without it happening at all. When it does occur, however, it will happen in repeated succession. I have taken it to the mechanic three different times, had three different repairs, and it still does the same thing. He thinks it might actually be the computer, since the check engine light does come on some of the times, but the codes it has given him have not resulted in a repair of the problem. It actually stalled once when I was moving, and I still can't believe I wasn't broadsided (was making a u-turn). I have noticed that sometimes it seems to the be more prominent when the weather is hot, but this isn't necessarily the only time it stalls.
    Is anyone else having this problem? If so, do you have any repair suggestions?
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    I'm concerned that some of the do-it-yourself types could do the same.

    Thanks for your concern...it's OK. I don't know if the "do it yourself" types can even work on this tranny. My local transmission shop says they even have to buy the fluid from the Ford dealer......
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    GET AN EXTENDED WARRANTY....It's very inportant with these things.

    www.fordwarrantys.com
    OR
    www.fordwarranty.com
    OR
    Your local dealer.... :surprise:

    MAKE THEM FIX the brakes OR RETURN THE VEHICLE!!!!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Try the Idle or Stalling Problems - All Vehicles discussion too.

    Steve, Host
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    No disrespect intended here - but you're sounding paranoid a little. Any car you buy will bring some inherent risk with it, even a new one. You can't protect yourself from everything. And I doubt that contract would be easily enforceable. You may wnat to have a Carfax report run to see if they have uncovered any issues with the car. Besides that, buy an ESP warranty from Ford, and hope for the best.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    "No disrespect intended here - but you're sounding paranoid a little."

    Yes, he may be a little paranoid. However, a used car is a used car for a reason. I purchased a used Ford Contour a couple of years back. (I have owned a total of three.) And it had a problem that did not manifest itself until later. I bought it from a private party, hence no recourse. To make a long story very short-inspite of being looked at by the best mechanics and diagnosticians available-it couldn't be fixed, they could not find "the problem". I traded it in and lost over $2,000.00. You do get bad used cars... sometimes they can't be fixed, or they are very expensive to fix. IT happens........
    Used cars.... buyers beware!!
  • shemkesshemkes Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 explorer and the a/c (climate control) just stopped working. I checked the fuses and they are good, system has good gas charge, and compressor clutch has continuity. Fan works, and system appears to be operating correctly, but compressor clutch won't activate. Are there any fusable links that can be checked?
  • samvsamv Member Posts: 4
    Took my Explorer to the dealer. Apparently, they are replacing the gears in the differential (humming noise) and some solenoid in the transmission. I still think the tranny needs to be replaced but we'll see. It is under warranty.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    Hang in there, just replacing the transmission solenoid works wonders.
  • samvsamv Member Posts: 4
    chuck1,

    Thanks for the encouragement. I'll be surprised if the solenoid cures by sluggish shifting. I'll let you know what happens.

    Thanks,
  • explorer02explorer02 Member Posts: 2
    My 02 Explorer makes a "gurgling" noise when I accelerate from a dead stop. It only makes the noise in the low gears. I will be bringing it in to the dealer for them to look at, and yes I did buy the extended warranty.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    The sluggish shifting is indeed caused by either a bad solenoid, or the trantransmissionputer needing a "reflash" or both. So it sounds like your problem will be cured. You would be surprised how computers and electronics play a roll these days with transmissions.
  • exploderexploder Member Posts: 1
    I own a 98 xlt and have the same problem for about two years. Did you ever fix your 4wd lights to stop flashing. Would appreciate an answer as we now have the transmission and transfer case out of the suv. Thought we may be able to correct the same problem you had.

    Thanks
  • goodfellas24goodfellas24 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 02 XLT. 44k on it.It's loud in low gears sometimes during acceleration, sometimes very loud, other times not at all??
    Also, my truck was dead a month ago,so I got a new battery. But I realized that the dash light for Direction/mileage is always either bright or half lit.while the rest of the Lights have NEVER had an issue Any clue what that's about? Sorry I know a lot of Q's here, but Im not good with cars at all really. My truck also idles at abou 6/700 tops,and seems shaky when Im stopped. Please Email me with any and all ideas, especially about the light as I had it checked and firestone said the comp. read everything OK electronically, but after a few weeks with the battery it's gone back to looking like the lights are dying?
  • elliatelliat Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for prompt respond :)

    alot of people telling me it's a torque converter, not the pump.
    But thanks again :shades:
  • standringstandring Member Posts: 2
    As my 2004 Explorer XLT also has the same problem, could I ask if you resolved the problem on your vehicle?
  • standringstandring Member Posts: 2
    Purchased a 2004 Ford Explorer XLT in Jun 05. The vehicle was ex-Hertz rental and had done 32,750 miles but with the assurance from Hertz that all servicings had been carried out at correct mileages and that only OEM spare parts were used.

    First and most obvious problem was a 1-2 second delay when selecting reverse gear before the harsh engagement of the reverse gear took place. The problem was confirmed at a Ford garage where they found that 'PCC stuck 45 psi when commanded 115 psi, then pressure would jump'. Trans pan and then valve removed and overhaul of valve found that 'check ball in bath tub smaller than it should be' They replaced the solenoid body and overhauled the reverse servo free of charge and everything was subsequently okay. This problem has been mentioned in case other Explorer owners are experiencing the same problem.

    The second problem experienced upon purchasing the car was an intermittent 'knock' that was felt through the brake pedal when braking relatively hard. The braking always felt smooth with no 'snatch' and there was no decrease felt in the efficiency of the braking system apart from a single 'knock' felt through the brake pedal. This problem seemed to be rapidly decreasing in frequency of occurence, but I still felt concerned enough to take it to the Ford dealer for checking. The Ford servicing department later told me that they had been unable to reproduce the problem, but assured me that they had checked all the front end steering/braking system without finding anything wrong. I took the foreman out with me for a test drive and, after several heavy brakings (and the foreman getting car sick), we reproduced the problem. The foreman felt that it was glazing on the brake pads/discs causing the problem and so the brakes were dismantled and the pads and discs rubbed down to remove the 'glazing' before reassembly. The same problem later re-occurred - a knock felt through the brake pedal - and this time the foreman decided that new brake pads had to fitted. As yet, I haven't needed to do any heavy braking to find out if the same problem is still there, but I have no confidence that they have solved the problem. Surely, if there was slipping between the brake pads and discs as the foreman decided, I would have felt a 'jerking' feeling rather than a 'knock' through the brake pedal? Has anyone else ever experienced this problem. And I had to pay for all the rectification work for this problem.

    I also have another intermittent problem in that whenever driving very slowly (particularly when reversing) and with the steering at or near full lock, I occasionally get another kind of 'knock' felt through the steering wheel this time, just as though one of the front wheels had run over a stone in the road. The Ford garage gave me some explanation which didn't make much sense but had something to do with the steering stops and grease being required. The same problem has occurred again since being looked at by Ford.

    And then, as if I haven't already had enough problems with this car, I started to get the strange intermittent 'howling' sound that was so perfectly described in message #3758. The answer to the problem seemed to be explained in message #3876 and it would be appreciated if anyone could confirm that changing the expansion valve in the rear auxiliary evaporator has been the solution. As you can all guess, I am reluctant to put my car back in the hands of the Ford dealer without having a better idea of what the problems are caused by. Any helpful answers gratefully received.
  • explorer02explorer02 Member Posts: 2
    Any ideas what could be the cause of the noise when accelerating?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Wow - that's a lot of miles for a rental, especially an SUV that is likely to take more of a beating than a car will. I used to buy Hertz cars myself - and while the cars were ok, the Vans I would buy were always beat to crap.

    Anyway, yes, switching the expansion valve out of the rear A/C evaporator should stop the howling.....

    I wish you luck with this car. While they may change the oil, Hertz is not known for staying up on recalls and stuff. Takes the car out of service for too long, and if the car isn't rolling, it's not making money.
  • spring25spring25 Member Posts: 11
    Hi guys, I being busy and I haven't check the chats for a long time. Remember I was researching about getting a SUV (MOUNTAINEER) and trade in my car (Nissan Altima) that is not an option any more. my husband car died on him ( Lincoln Town car). I was approve for a loan and I need a bigger car due our family is big. I being car pooling to go to work and when my husband need to go to his side jobs during the weekends, I am stock with the kids at home. I really need to get another vehicle and it need to be big due our family size. My loan is going to expire on 09/24/05 and it was for $15000. I had check one used Ford Explorer 2002 and used Mountaineers 2002 for $14999 with 44,389 mileages fully loaded but I am very concern about the gas price but at the same time we need a reliable, comfortable car. What I should do, do you think these are good price? Help me please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    If you buy a used Explorer just be sure to get an ESP warranty. Check Edmunds for pricing. Also, with the current gas situation, if you wait you may be able to get an even better deal.
    Good luck! :blush:
  • spring25spring25 Member Posts: 11
    Thank you very much chuck. I will wait. I have until September 24th to use the check the bank sent me, but if things still getting ugly with the gas price then I will need to wait until the only car we have die on us too and then maybe by them we will be in better conditions of buying our most wanted SUV."
    Thanks again for your input. Anybody else have any comments or recomendations!!!!!!!! Anybody?????????
  • alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    you can't buy extended warranty of the ford when if it has over 36k miles.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    Your right....I missed how many miles was on the vehicle. DON'T buy any Explorer with over 36,000 miles on it. You MUST have a warranty!!
  • lateralglateralg Member Posts: 929
    I recommend thinking BEYOND fuel cost per gallon and vehicle miles per gallon.

    Instead of making a decision based on either of these alone, calculate annual fuel cost for each vehicle you're considering. Gallons per year = Miles per year divided by miles per gallon. Fuel cost per year = gallons per year times cost per gallon.

    This is a START in making a good purchase decision.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    Miles per year divided by miles per gallon. Fuel cost per year = gallons per year times cost per gallon.

    You know most European countries drive smaller cars and seem to get along fine.

    Ford Focus City 26 Hwy. 35
    Explorer City 15 Hwy. 21 (both figures from Ford.com)

    There is a BIG DIFFERENCE if you do not need the capabilities of the Explorer.
    It doesn't matter what the true difference is of the cost of gas is.... if you don't need the capabilities.
  • alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    lol, what the heck was i writing?! it should have read "you can't buy extended warranty on the ford if it has over 36k miles on it" :blush:
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