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If the check valve gets stuck it won't vent properly and vapor or vacuum lock could occur causing your car to not get proper fuel pressure. Changing the gas cap is a lot cheaper than replacing the fuel pump.
So, if you still have the roar, and it is coming from the front wheel area, it is probably your front hub assembly, which includes the front wheel bearings. They are pricey - I think 225.00 or so a side.
Good Luck
E.D.
Wondering if anyone has had any problems while being in 4 wheel high and making a left or right turn.It seems to be slipping in and out of gear while making turns.,,like a jumping motion.The sharper the turn the worse it gets. The service manager said that was normal!!!!! Bringing it in for service tommorrow to get it checked out. Let you know what the outcome is.
Milky
Thanks
Jim">
You need synthetic bearing grease - Mobil 1 is easy to find, and the nut needs lots of torque.
Ford only sells a hub assembly, not bearings separately, they are about 225 to 250 per side. So the parts aren't cheap. Check online - you may find some better prices. Rockauto possibly.
You may want to get a repair manual for your vehicle and read up on the instructions if you are a little rusty on your auto repair skills.
If you are not having any problems shifting up thru the gears, down thru the gears, overdrive works ok, everything seems smooth and normal, then have the pan dropped, and put in a new filter and fresh fluid. Fluid should be changed every 3 yrs or 36,000 miles. I would NOT suggest doing the fluid flush where they do not remove the pan and put in a new filter.
I am assuming here that the shop has not found a trouble code when they checked your tranny for problems. If you have not had the codes checked, you should do so. The tranny will normally set a code when it starts flashing the o/d light indicating what the problem is.
Yes, I'll try. The procedure that I outlined is generic in nature and would apply to almost any modern automotive electrical charging system.
The first step is to verify the actual battery voltage across the battery terminals with an accurate volt meter or volt-ohm-meter (VOM) or Digital-volt-ohm-meter (DVOM). Check to be sure that the battery voltage is normal with engine off, 12.7 volts or higher up to 13 volts. With engine running,and all accessories on (A/C on Max cool, Lights, Wipers, Brake Lights), the volts should read over 13 volts, this varies from car to car, because they all have different electric loads and different alternators. Most cars with strong alternators will read 14 volts or slightly higher.
If your alternator is charging the battery well, then your problem falls in one of two realms, either the battery is bad and discharges itself, or something in the electrical system is draining the battery.
The FIRST step is to check and test the existing battery and electrical system. How old is the battery? Make sure battery is fully charged, then check the voltage across the battery with engine off, with engine at idle, with engine at fast idle, then repeat these three tests with LOAD on the battery (headlights on, A/C on, wipers on). The voltage should not drop to an abnormally low value. If it does, LOAD TEST the Battery. Charging Voltage at fast idle should be around 14 volts, 13 volts under heavy load. If charging voltage is low, check and repair charging system.
If the Battery checks OK, and the Charging System checks OK and all your Wiring Connections are clean, tight and OK, and the battery still dies after it sit for a few days, then TEST for an EXCESSIVE PARASITIC DRAW on the battery. I have pasted the procedure below:
It is hard to gauge an old battery, sometimes new ones can quit on you too, and sometimes abuptly. They can fail in several ways:
1. Slowly run down until all the power is drained from them, like an alternator failure, or headlights or a light bulb or other load left on when the car is parked for a period of time.
2. Suddenly lose power due to an internal fault inside the battery, short circuit, open circuit or an electrolyte leak.
Check, clean and tighten all cables, clamps and connections. Start engine (jump if needed), place voltmeter across battery terminals, volts should read 12.7 volts or higher at idle, 13 to 14.5 volts at fast idle. 15 volts or more is too high. Check the battery after FULLY CHARGING with a battery charger, to be sure it is charged as much as it will hold. Testing a battery with a low charge will fail even a perfectly good battery. Use a LOAD TEST to test the battery, follow instuctions on the LOAD TESTER. In general, the load is placed across the battery and increased until the battery volts fall to 9 1/2V, Read Amps at the same time. Keep the battery on the load test the shortest amount of time possible, as the load tester can get very hot or overheat. A good 12 volt car battery should be able to maintain an AMPERAGE OUTPUT of MORE THAN ONE HALF OF it's COLD CRANKING AMPS RATING without dropping below 9 1/2 VOLTS. If it drops to 1/4 of it's cold cranking amps rating while under load at 9 1/2 volts, it is weak, and should be replaced.
Next, if the battery test is ok, then you need to find what is draining your battery by checking "PARASITIC CURRENT DRAW" from your battery. Your car has electronic MODULES that draw current when they are first connected. After they "settle down", in about 2 to 5 minutes, the parasitic current drain on you battery should be down to about 25 ma (milliamps) (.025 Amp). Do the following test procedure, and if you find your draw is too high, pull fuses one at a time to see if you can isolate the source of the excessive current draw.PARASITIC CURRENT DRAW TEST:Start with a fully charged Battery. Turn everything in the car OFF, close the door, remove the light bulb from under the hood so that nothing you know of is on. Remove the negative cable. Place a 5 amp fuse & a 1 ohm/10watt resistor in series with the negative cable, then wait a few minutes to allow the modules to settle down, then proceed. Connect a Digital Volt/Ohm Meter across the resistor and do a simple voltage drop test. Results = for example, a .022v draw = a 22mA draw. When you have minimal computers/radios/etc a maximum of 25mA is optimal. If you have multiple computers/cell phones/alarms/etc expect a higher number to be normal, though the cell phones/alarms should be OFF for this test. Over 25ma should be investigated and Over 50ma should be corrected. Check manufacturers specs to be sure of what it should be for your vehicle.That ought to get you going for now.
Good Luck,
E.D.
Honger
Thanks to any who answer........
Crazy3
U Joints have that characteristic when going bad. They will vibrate badly when accelerating or decelerating, then smooth out at steady speed - the vibration may or may not entirely go away.
Look under driveshafts or drivelines in your yellow pages. You can take it in and have your driveshafts checked for balance and bad u-joints / constant velocity joints.
If the driveshafts check out, then you have c/v joints in your front axles and rear axles. You will need to check the axle shafts. Newer exploders have had some problems with rear axles with the new independent rear suspension.
To possibly get a clue, drive the sploder at the speed that the vibration is worst. Have a friend pace you in the next lane and have him watch for vibrations at each tire - if he can see one vibrating up/down, you have probably found your bad axleshaft, given that you have rebalanced the tires already.
limited-slip axles, often known by the GM trademark Posi-Trak, do NOT lock up, they are conventional differentials. the difference is that there is a preload spring in a posi. with a regular axle, it is possible for one wheel to get on slippery conditions, and it will spin off all the engine power while the wheel on good traction will get none. the preload spring of the posi puts some apparent traction on both wheels, so power will not be blown away on the slipping wheel, but some will also get to the other wheel.
AWD systems have limited-slip axles front and rear, and the LS effect is part of the power distribution system.
a standard 4x4 system utilizes locked differentials, in which yes indeed, both wheels turn lockstep to each other on the same axle. and 4x4 outer wheels WILL HOP when enough energy builds up from holding the tire back when the physics of turning a larger circle with the same turns clearly dictate that the tire has to move faster. this can cause control issues at moderate to highway speeds.
if ford is allowing slip through the hub clutches, it's protecting the tire and protecting the drive system as well.
but that is not the same thing as posi, not at all. they are entirely separate systems.
Thank You
Will keep you all updated and again thanks.
Crazy3
You had a covered part break, which is not your fault. When a covered part breaks, it is a covered claim. The other engine damage done as a consequence of the broken timing chain is "reasonably forseeable" - it will happen to just about every engine like yours that has a broken timing chain. There was nothing YOU could have done to prevent it.
A good tactic to use if they do attempt to deny the claim is to obtain an explanation in writing why the claim is being denied and specifically what paragraph of the contract allows them to deny the claim.
But I doubt you will have a problem in the end.
Your 03 should be covered under the warranty as long as you have maintenance records. So it looks like you are going to get a new engine. The 2000-2005's should not have had this problem, but I guess it might still be an issue. There are four tensioners on the SOHC engines.
But first, search the internet for explorer blend door fix / repair. There is a "homemade" fix you can try that often works, and you don't have to pull the dash.
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I have bascially the exact same problem with my 95. I start the car and it revs but never maintains idle rpm. Sometimes revving it to 3k helps it catch, other times driving for 5 minutes will do the trick. After reading the threads for the better part of the afternoon, here are possible solutions I'm seeing.
1 Idle Air Control Valve
2 EGR Valve
3 ECT (engine coolant sensor)
4 VZV Valve
Replacing all of these is a little more work than I have time, and I was wondering if anyone with the same problem has had an effective fix for it, or if I should just start replacing parts in the aforementioned order. Thanks.
My theory, from what people have told me (guess not my theory), is to find a transmission rebuild kit and basically replace all the worn out parts. Is this possible for me to do or is this something only a pro can do. I would really like to try and attempt this since the cost is so much lower. Everyone's input is very much appreciated! Thanks!
The first thing to do is obviously get all the 'bad' gas of of the tank and replace it with good gas. Then drive the car down a bumpy road to try to get the fuel sender to break loose, maybe hit the brakes hard at low speed to make the car bounce. If it won't come loose that way, then its off to the repair shop to pull the tank and replace the sender unit.
Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida