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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • ghost6ghost6 Member Posts: 1
    I just brought a 1997 ford explorer and would like to know where to find the code for keyless entry
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Thanks electric. I think it is off to the repari shop.
  • 03mercowner03mercowner Member Posts: 7
    Bought an 03 Mountaineer Premier AWD (V8) used in March 2005 with almost 19000 miles. Wasn't impressed then by the looks of the BF Goodrich Rugged Trail A/T M&S tires, but they had enough tread I thought to go through Summer and into Fall. Never felt "secure" on wet roads with these tires, and now that Winter is here, I'm researching what is available to replace them (at 23000 miles). They are 245 65 R17.

    Has anyone else replaced their OEM BF Goodrich tires on their Mountaineer (or Explorer)? What did you choose?

    Ninety five percent of my driving is around town on paved roads, but I do have a country lane on a slight grade I travel twice daily (to and from work, and usually the last road in the township to be plowed after a snow storm).

    I don't really want to go with an all terrain tire with a more aggressive looking tread.... would like to find something though that is decent in snow, has better tread life, but not sacrifice handling and noise level. When I say snow, I'm just talking 3 to 4 inches of unplowed snow... this is probably the most I would get caught in unexpectedly (as if let out of work early to make the 8 mile drive home because winter storm has started). If it's 8 to 10 inches fresh snow, I'm not driving anywhere until roads are plowed... or I'll drive my 96 Explorer AWD V8 with the Wrangler ATs.
    I've narrowed it down to the Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza only by good reviews I've read and photos. Going into the tire store today to just have a look. The BF Goodrichs I have have 29.9" tire OD, Section Width 9.6" & 696 REVS per mile, the Alenza would be 29.4", Section Width 9.5" and 709 REVS per mile ... I'm guessing everything on these cars is computer syncronized, is this difference anything to be concerned about? All the other specs are in line.

    From what I read, the Alenzas are being put on some upper end SUVS (Navigator, Suburban, Lexus, Tahoe).

    Any thoughts, recommendations welcome!
  • pmasiakospmasiakos Member Posts: 2
    I have a brand new 2006 Explorer that is only 6 weeks old. My wife was driving it and she mentioned that the steering wheel got "hung up" then all of a sudden it came free. Good thing she was in a parking lot when it happened. She called our dealer and they told her not to drive the car, to have it towed right to them. After a few hours, they called her with a frightening message, basically, they just got word from Ford, that there are inherent steering problems with some of the new 2006 models. As my wife was telling our local dealer what actually happened, they told her this is what was exactly written in the letter they received from Ford. Has anyone else had this experience....Now, my wife wants out of our Lease, she wants a new truck, preferably an Expedition (I have a new Escape) she thinks it's too small. Any ideas?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    IMHO,
    You didn't say what engine and transmission you have. In any case, this is a job for ONLY a seasoned PRO to do. They are the most complicated part of your vehicle. Don't even think about it unless you are an expert automatic transmission rebuilder. They are Very Sensitive, the clearances are Very Critical, and all thust washers, bushings, bearings, clutches, servos, vavle body, splines, pump, torque converter must be carefully checked. It takes intimate knowledge of the transmission for a sucessful rebuild. It takes special tools to work on them. It is best to ditch the converter and put in a new or rebuilt one, because they get contaminated from the old fluid and parts debris. The Fluid Cooler and lines need to be flushed clean. You need a nice clean spacious work space, compressed air, cleaning solvents, etc.
    What your tranny has is called morning sickness. The first thing to try, is pouring a bottle of LUCAS Transmission stop leak in it first. That may help considerably. It's the only additive that I would recommend, I've seen it work before.

    E.D.
  • ebyersebyers Member Posts: 2
    Research your states' Lemon Law! I have a 2004 Explorer - I believe they have the same transmissions and engines. VA Lemon Law says 3 repairs on the same problem it is a LEMON and Ford must either repurchase the car or replace the car - go for it. Ford is buying mine back - AT PURCHASE PRICE! :lemon:
  • billk9billk9 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 Ford Explorer that is very hard to start when the weather gets cold. It seems to start fine when the weather is warm, but as it grows colder it get progressively harder to start. When it was down to approximately 10 degrees it would not start at all. As soon as I put it in a warm shop for a few hours it started fine. the other thing that I have noticed is that as the weather gets colder and the vehicle does start it seem to lope for a few seconds before the engine settles down. Any suggestions as to what the problem might be?
  • 96exploder196exploder1 Member Posts: 2
    The engine is the ford explorer 6-cyclinder 4.0L. I'm not a seasoned pro but maybe by researching how everything works and maybe with the assistance of others who know more than I, this task might be possible.

    I will try this Lucas trans stop leak and see how well it works, but I know it will only slow the degrading process. I know sooner or later I will have to face this, so I would rather handle this as smart as I can. I don't have the money for a new car or a transmission. This is my only chance at fixing this. I have a friend who changed the transmission on a Ford Taurus. He told me that he bought a transmission rebuilt kit for about $300 and then replaced the parts that had degraded the most and it fixed the problem. He said the hardest part was getting to the transmission other than that he said that it wasn't that difficult just time consuming. I figured if he's not a pro and he figured it out, then I can possibly do the same. I'll I need is a book that gives me the break down and maybe the necessary steps to follow. Any Ideas or any other suggestions would help greatly???
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    For professional grade repair manuals, search for ATSG and ATSG transission repair manuals. Study the books until you know the transmission inside and out and all the special tools and procedures required. You'll need compressed air, parts cleaner with sovent, Feeler gauges, Dial Micrometer, Dial Indicator,a few specialized tools, general mechanics tools, jacking, stands and a transmission jack to be able to get it out and back in. You will need some professional advice, search for Automotive Repair Forums. Don't buy the parts at a regular automotive parts house, but make friends with your local transmission parts jobber, a place that specializes in transmission parts. They can also give you a lot of good advice.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Member Posts: 56
    My 98 explorer (98k miles) has to have spark plugs replaced according to the manual schedule. Do I have to do the cap and wires too? Also, do you think a slight, slight hesitation has to do with the plugs? Or could it be freezing weather with a low tank?

    thanks

    no more k car = good good good
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Member Posts: 56
    My alternator is supposedly making noise. The service manager told me so when I replaced a fuel line at the dealer. Although in my book it says something about cam chain noise and a 7 yr warranty. Any thoughts? I made an appt for monday at another ford dealer, but it's tough to tell who's honest.

    Nick
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    " Screaming alternator by dodgekbad Dec 14, 2005 (2:05 pm)
    My alternator is supposedly making noise. The service manager told me so when I replaced a fuel line at the dealer. Although in my book it says something about cam chain noise and a 7 yr warranty. Any thoughts? I made an appt for monday at another ford dealer, but it's tough to tell who's honest. "

    dodgekbad, The title of your post is "screaming" alternator, but in your messege it is "supposedly" making noise, so is the noise loud or soft? Do you hear it while driving? If the manager had to tell you it was making noise, maybe you didn't notice it until he mentioned it. Is it a whinning kind of noise? You should be able to tell where the noise is coming from yourself if you listen carefully from several different positions. Be very Careful to stay clear of the fan and belt!
  • frrussrefrrussre Member Posts: 41
    Research your states' Lemon Law! I have a 2004 Explorer - I believe they have the same transmissions and engines. VA Lemon Law says 3 repairs on the same problem it is a LEMON and Ford must either repurchase the car or replace the car - go for it. Ford is buying mine back - AT PURCHASE PRICE!

    Ebeyers, did you use an attorney or arbitration?:lemon:
    Reg. Frank R.
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Member Posts: 56
    Thanks for the reply.

    I can't tell where the noise is coming from. Sounds like it could be from the alternator - if I knew where that was - it would help. On the back of my owners book - it says something about a cam chain making noise for that year. Btw, it is a v6 sohc. I figured that might be the source of the noise too. The noise is really noticeable when I have he hood up and the truck is at idle. I can here it faintly while driving and at stop lights however. It is a whine noise too.
  • 98fordpos98fordpos Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 explorer 4.0 sohc with 72,000 miles, I started noticing it was running low on antifreeze every two weeks,to the point the heat only works when you revs the engine,so happens that the antifreeze is filing up the resevior.I changed the cap and nothing happend.There is no problem with overheating.Could it be the thermostat or do I have bigger problems? :sick:
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    You may be able to locate the noise by using a length of small rubber hose, hold one end to your ear, then slowly prod around the alternator and engine with the other end of the hose. Listen for where the noise gets loudest. This is also a good way to locate vacuum leaks. Be SURE to be very careful to NOT get your fingers, hands, or the hose caught in the engine fan or belt!
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,253
    just thought you would like to know the guy who bought your last explorer is over on BON complaining that the plactic panel on the rear hatch cracked (somewhat common for the early models). :)
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    You mean the one that was in the long term fleet here? (found it - very small world indeed).

    "Based on our pleasant and virtually trouble-free ownership experience, we knew this was a vehicle we would feel comfortable selling to a private individual once our year-long test was complete"

    Long-Term Test: 2002 Ford Explorer XLT

    3 years and 60k; I suppose a few things break now and then. Too bad though.

    Steve, Host
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Member Posts: 56
    Just an update to my question...the hesitation seems to be gone. It must have been the really cold weather and low gas tank level that was causing it. Now that it has warmed up here a little, the problem is gone.

    I am still wondering if I have to replace the wires and cap, along with the spark plugs however. The wires look new too. I've had the car since March of this year with 88k on it. It now has 99k. It's a '98, v6 sohc
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    No, You don't have to replace the wires if they are in good shape. You can't always tell by looking at them, but if they run ok, then they are good for now. When wires get weak, they cause misses and hesitation. You can make your wires last longer by reducing the spark plug gap to .040" to .045". This reduces the voltage on the wires and reduces stress on the insulation, which is what causes them to break down and go bad.
    I've had 4 Explorers, 91, 93, 97 and 00, driven to very high milage (over 150,000) and I never replaced spark plug wires on any of them. And I reduced the spark plug gaps in all of them.
    I did have a Mercury Grand Marquis with a 4.6L V8 for a while before I had the 93 Explorer, and it needed wires at about 60,000 miles, the gaps had worn and increased to about .070". That's when I found out the big spark plug gaps burned the wires out faster. New wires for that thing were a hundred bucks, so I said 'never again' and reduced the gaps from .054" to .040", and it ran fine and no problems after that.
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Member Posts: 245
    anyone have a reccomendation on windshield wipers? are the silicone better than the old style rubber?
  • jfriend1jfriend1 Member Posts: 2
    Hello, I have a loud wine coming from the front of my 1999 V8 explorer. The mechanic who changed my auto transmission fluid said it was the alternator bearings. Since it was almost 6 years old with 111000 miles I replaced the alternator. The noise is still there. It sounds like a transmission or power steering unit low on fluid but both are full. I tried the hose trick but still can't isolate the sound. Any help is greatly appreciated/
  • mkunklemkunkle Member Posts: 4
    Assuming a 97 has it in the same place as my 96. On the driver's side, in the cargo area, there's a small panel that you can remove (I think the jack is in there). You'll see a small square box wth wires running to it, you'll need a flashlight to see the sticker with the code on it, usually 5 digits.

    matt
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    That goes to show that you can't always believe what your mechanic says, it's always best to get a second opinion. How loud is the sound? Is it noticable with the hood down or while driving? Was it still as loud after the alternator change?
    Actually, those alternators hold up quite well, I never had to replace an alternator on any of my Explorers, the 91 and 93 XLT's went up to over 160,000 miles, the 97 is at about 143,000 and the 2000 is at about 113,000, with no alternator problems.
    The sound will behave differently according to what it is. The alternator whine will change in pitch or loudness if the electrical load on it is changed significantly, such as turning on or off the headlights or AC. The power steering sound will change as you turn the steering wheel from side to side. Sound can also come from any of the rotating parts that the belt turns, the AC Clutch bearing, any idler pulley bearing, belt tensioner pully bearing, water pump, fan clutch, etc.
    If you can't seem to isolate it, then it's best to take it to a good shop.
  • bob115bob115 Member Posts: 1
    I filled my Explorer up and the gauge did not register, it is still stuck on 1/4 tank. I have been getting gas at the same station for all 4 of my vehicles for 2 years. Never a problem.
  • moeharrimoeharri Member Posts: 108
    We had the same problem on our 2003 XLT--when you tell Ford of the problem, you can probably expect a run-a-round. We spent 3 months trying to get it fixed, with them telling us to switch gas stations (yeah, that almost worked). Anyway, they ended up replacing the sending unit (in the gas tank?) and the whole instrument cluster (odometer, speedometer, etc). So far no problems, but it has only been about 8 months and I am crossing my fingers for this winter.
  • jfriend1jfriend1 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your help. The sound is loud enough to easily hear with the hood closed and at low speed driving. Turning the steering wheel doesn't effect it, but engine rmp does. CHanging the alternator didn't change it at all. I'm guessing its one of the pullies or maybe the water pump. There's not much room to work in the area of the pullies, any suggestions on the best way to replace the pullies? Can the bearings just be replaced? John
  • brucelincbrucelinc Member Posts: 815
    I would be very suspicious of one of the idlers that keep tension on the serpentine belt or the belt, itself. Even a belt that looks good can be glazed on the back side and make quite a racket. If you remove the belt, and spin the idler pulley with your hands, you might notice that it has a gritty sound/feel to it - not good. You may also notice some play as you wiggle the idler pulley - not good either.
    If the belt looks good or has been replaced, you could sand the backside lightly with some sandpaper to knock off any glaze. Belts and idlers are pretty cheap at most auto parts stores.
  • ford_suv_rookiford_suv_rooki Member Posts: 4
    I just bought a used 1999 ford explorer sport 2 door SUV 4 wheel drive. When I drive at 25mph~30mph, a loud grinding noise from the front wheel came out. No matter I start from a stop light or decelarate from highway, the noise will come out. This is my first SUV and 4X4, anyone here can give me hint what is the problem and around what money do I need put in to repair it. Thanks in advance.
  • nightshiftnightshift Member Posts: 1
    If it's a grinding noise without much squeaking, it's usually the wheel bearings. I think u have to buy the whole unit (bearings AND housing), not just the bearings, and that could run as much as $200 for parts alone. If you are able to replace only the bearings, they are only $5-20. Fortunately this is not a complicated procedure and I'm sure you could find a guide on how to do it fairly easy.
  • pjd4pjd4 Member Posts: 1
    WHEN THE EXPLORER WAS BROUGHT NEW THEIR WAS A CARD WITH THE KEYLESS ENTRY CODE ON IT. THAT WAS PART OF THE OWNER MANUAL ( LITTLE BLUE BOOK). READ THE SECTION IN THE OWNER MANUAL MAYBE THE OWNER WROTE THE CODE IN THERE. THE OWNER ALSO SAY THE CODE IS ON THE COMPUTER MODULE. ONCE YOU HAVE THE OEM CODE YOU CAN REPROGRAM IT TO YOUR OWN 5 DIGIT CODE. THE OWNER MANUAL WILL TAKE YOU THRU THE PROCEDURE.
    OR TAKE YOUR VIN NUMBER TO YOUR LOCAL FORD DEALER AND BUY THE CODE. I HAVE A MAILING TAG ON MY KEYS : FORD BOX 546 LATHRUP VILLAGE MI 48076 SENT THEM A LETTER.
    I THIS HELPS
  • newyork631newyork631 Member Posts: 2
    I own a 99 Ford Explorer XLT Suv 4WD, V-6 4.0 Liter. Currently on 88k. Power windows. I have encountered problems in the past with the driver side window not mechanical rolling down.Finally rolled down and never went back up. Had the motor replaced with new ford part from ford dealership repair shop. Within two months, same problem occurred. Yet will only roll a tiny bit down and at angle. Since on warranty, brought back to repair shop. Waited one complete day to learn it's not the motor this time that has gone bad, but the regulator within the door that is causing the window from rolling down completely. Was informed that it's bent and am unable to unbent the bar( regulator) nor switch from different door to defy cost.
    This being said, my question which I would like to put out here is this: Besides the huge money outlay I would occur, is there a way I could install this regulator myself? Is it true that I could not obtain the regulator from a different window in my car? Or is there a possible chance that it can be rebent into correct postion again without replacing? I did question this at repair shop, and was told I would not have access to blueprints of car only available to mechanics. Or do you think since i am a female... I received misinformation?
    Thank You reading... welcome ideas
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    The window regulator was probably the problem from the begining (binding or damaged). They are different on each door because left and right are different, and the front and back are different. If it is messed up, it's best to replace it with a new one, the question is how did it get messed up in the first place? They should last a very long time (10 to 12 years if the mechanisim and the channels are kept lubricated). They are an enormous pain to replace, it is best to let a pro do it. A body shop would probably be cheaper than the dealer, call around, get quotes.
    To maintain your window regulators, always spray the mechanisim with WD40 and with spray white grease when you have the inside door cover removed. AND at EACH normal oil change/service spray WD40 in all the channels that the glass slides up and down in, so that the glass always moves easily and smoothly. Also lube all the door hinges the same way at each service.
    Good Luck,
    E.D in Sunny Florida
  • c_douglasc_douglas Member Posts: 1
    i have a 93 ford explorer. it didnt come with a owners manual and my fuel guage doesnt work. i wanted to know what size gas tank do i have and whats the estimated mileage per gallon, so i can caculate how much gas i have
  • newyork631newyork631 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info. I wondered myself, how & why this failed but on first repair this was not noted. I have stared at this door at times with a screwdriver in hand, pondering if I attempt this, to repair regulator, I might be opening pandora's box.So instead I posted here. What's the con vs. pro to used regulator vs new? Beside price?
  • ford_suv_rookiford_suv_rooki Member Posts: 4
    Hi: all,
    I just bought a used 1999 Explorer sport 2door. The owner manual is missed. I wonder why my keyless entry can not lock the backdoor and it seems the key can not turn after inserted into the backdoor lock as I want to lock the door by key.
    Another question: I read some forum and know how to code my personl code on driver door lock. But it seemed to me both my personl code and manufactural code will work at same time. I wonder if I can erase the manufacture code and only make my personal code work to open the door. It is safer and make me more comfortable to keep my stuff inside the truck.
    Thank you for any hint. Merry chrismas!!
  • shannonmshannonm Member Posts: 6
    Hi all -

    I am new to this board and have been trying to find an answer to my issue with no luck.

    I have an 01 XLT with 75,000mi. I have noticed a drop in gas mileage and slight loss in power. I used to always get at least 300-325 a tank and it dropped to 270-290. My fuel filter was changed last summer. I was advised to put the Chevron fuel injector and intake valve cleaner in it. The stuff worked great! My mileage was back up and my slight power loss was gone. Now that I have re-filled my tank, I am back to the poor mileage and slight loss in power. I have also noticed that while sitting at a stop light it idles at about 600rpm and I believe it used to idle at 900-1000rpm. I have not noticed any other problems with it and it seems to run great.

    Any help or advice I could get would be great. I am hesitant to take it to a repair shop with at least an idea of what my problem may be as I think I have been taken advantage of in the past. Being a single mom around the holidays, I have to watch my money closely.
  • woodyakwoodyak Member Posts: 1
    I own a Ford Explorer XLT 2002. About a month ago it would occasionaly start kicking in the auto 4x4 when I backed up and made a sharp turn (like when you pull out of a parking spot). The 4x4 indicator would blink on and off on the console. To get it out of 4x4 I had to hit the 4x4 button and then the auto button. It would take about 30 seconds of driving and then the light would turn off. This is happening frequently now and it's getting kind of annoying. Anyone have any ideas of what this could be?
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    I would start with some simple maintenance. Your plugs are supposed to be 100k plugs, but they don't always last that long. So I would install a new set of plugs.

    Next, clean your mass air flow sensor. These get dirty over time and are known to cause performance and mileage issues. You can google this and find instructions. It does take a special socket to remove the screws holding it in - which can be found at most parts stores. Use a good throttle body cleaner and a couple of q tips. Not difficult.

    Replace your air filter if you have not done so for a long time.

    I'm guessing that these things will get your performance back, and should fix your mileage problem.
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Member Posts: 56
    Ok thanks. How do you reach the plugs on the '98 v6 sohc? The one in the rear of the engine, on the passenger's side, looks especially tough. On that model, it looks like you have to remove whatever the big thing is to the right of the engine, to even reach that rear plug. Are you supposed to use a special drive set?
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    there should be no cap, all the exploder engines since I started looking at them -- two 4 liters and the 5 liter in 98 -- are full electronic ignition with multicoil packs.

    you need to replace plugs and wires. be sure to use antiseize on the plug threads and silicone dielectric grease in a ring inside both boots for each wire. this keeps moisture out and also lubricates the boot so it doesn't melt to the plug.

    get a chunk of fuel line hose, too. make the first turn or two on the new plugs through vacuum hose slipped over the insulator, NOT through a socket wrench. that way, it's impossible to strip out the plug threads by crossthreading the plug. you can still kill 'em by muscling down the wrench at the final tightening, so don't go past 10-16 foot pounds.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    that's a 4x4, if it's manual 4x4 it's wheel bearings or the hub. if it's AWD, you have a bad halfshaft. repair costs are fairly similar.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    recent owners manuals are availiable online for download... scan around a little bit from www.fordvehicles.com and you should find the link. service department can order the manual otherwise.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    1) sounds like somebody replaced the back lock cylinder without rekeying the new one to fit the car keys. so a rookie did it. a locksmith can fix it.

    2) the manufacturer code is not changeable, it's hardcoded. you are aware, right, that there are only a few hundred key notch combinations as well for the standard locks? you generally don't have to worry about the pro thieves, they don't need any steenking keys or codes. it's all to slow and stop the casual thieves. besides, windows break out with a rock in the hand or a roll of quarters, and that's the usual route thieves take to rip your Stuff off. don't leave it in the truck and it won't be ripped.

    merry christmas.
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Member Posts: 245
    2002 ltd, 45k miles

    we leave the climate control in auto all the time. sometimes, when the vehicle starts up, there is an odd smell - almost smoky, but not real bad. dissipates after a couple of minutes. seems to be in cold only, not during the summer.
  • weston777weston777 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 ford explorer with the 5 speed manual transmission. I was having shifting problems after warming up I recently replaced the clutch master cylinder. After replacing it I wasn’t able to disengage the clutch I bleed the system repeatedly with out any success finally I re- installed the original master cylinder and was able to get a partial clutch I still think air is in the system however I am unable to remove it. There are no adjustments for this type of clutch. Any suggestions?
  • jerri1960jerri1960 Member Posts: 2
    You're lucky! Like you, an '02 Explorer XLT. However my 4x4 quit :lemon: working entirely ... course, I found this out when I was stuck in a snow drift! No word yet on whether considered part of powertrain warranty, but went ahead & had dealer order the $435 shift control module. Will keep you updated, but I'd almost bet on that being your problem too. Factor in that I've only had it since Feb 1, it had less than 36,000 on it when I purchawsed it. Had to replace left front flange & belt tensioner (fortunately, caught those within 24 hours of taking posession), cruise control pigtail, a speed control something or another that caused the ABS light to come on & stay on ... now this!! At 46,000 miles!!! :lemon:
  • flyer3flyer3 Member Posts: 1
    My son has a 2002 Explorer and the ABS light keeps coming on, what did you (jerri1960) replace to correct this problem?
  • bglinbglin Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I want to install the kit but I need to have a live electrical positive connection which is off when the car is turned off. I had hoped to use the cigarette lighter connection wiring but it is always on. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where to tap into a ignition off line?

    Thanks
  • ford_suv_rookiford_suv_rooki Member Posts: 4
    Hi,
    My 1999 ford Explorer sport has no horn and cruise control working. I checked the fuse box, the fuse for the horn blowed out. However, after I put a new fuse and try to horn it, the fuse immediately blowed out again. It seems there is short somewhere. Any suggestion for this problem, is it a bad clockspring? Thanks a lot.
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