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Comments
Supposedly it can get wet by being parked uphill or by going through very deep puddles and neither of these apply. We bought the vehicle new and live in the Seattle area so we are always in the rainy weather and this is the first time this has happened.
Has anyone else dealt with this?
It seems odd to me that this would happen now.
Thanks for your reply.
It sounds like technology has passed this "good old boy" by. This is what you tell a customer when you have no idea what is wrong with the car and how to fix it. Pay the money and take it to the dealer. They will charge you between $75.00 and $100.00 to diagnose it and you can go from there. If you wish, once you find out what is wrong you can take it back to your mechanic. Although by the sounds of things I would run far, far away from him!
So, if I blasted the computer with a water hose, it would fry it? I won't try that anytime soon. I also wash off my engine at the car wash once in a while, so I will be careful not to direct any blast of water towards it, a good thing to know.
Took it to the dealer, and they kept the car for 2 days, but just as luck would have it, it behaved perfectly when at the dealer. And they claimed the computer codes show nothing wrong. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance
still shows 116 & 114 in that order
Before that, I checked for spark... yes we have spark
also fuel... yes good
also inertia switch with meter
also relays under hood with meter
also all fuses a okay
sometimes when I go to see if I did anything to make it run I'll get a POOFF backfire within the air manifold.
white smoke
I don't have an alarm system either
thanks so much
What ever is controlling the injectors is out I think.
I have fuel,spark and air, there just not meeting in the chamber...
The exhaust pipe doesn't smell like fuel at all
And yes the motor is blowing air.
I have had the normal lifter tap, but that can't be the problem you think?
Thanks everyone
PS this is my daily transpo!
Oh boy, what does this mean?
G
help me me out here..
It's just a machine not your crazy neighbor kid
gh
Steve, Host
114 is "Intake air Sensor out of self test range"
116 is "Coolant Temperature Sensor out of self test range"
I crawled under the truck over the past weekend and noticed both front and rear axle covers are leaking a little. In addition, the truck makes noise when cold and I turn the steering wheel.
Is this an easy job? The rear one looks like a walk in the park. But the front one looks tough since I can't reach the top bolts easily and the cover has no clearance to come out. But do I basically just replace the gasket after unbolting the cover? Where do I fill it? I couldn't find a filler plug.
I had my transfer case fluid changed 6 mo. ago for $35. This seems like a similiar repair. Should the axle fluid change be priced similiarly to the transfer case change? I'd just as soon let a shop do it for that little money.
What is this indicating, and what does it take to fix?
I just spent over $800 on a bad ABS sensor repair, and I'm losing my sense of humor with this kind of nuttiness. I'm about ready to trade this bugger in on a 56 Willys.
Apparently, you have a penchant for understatement.
tidester, host
What ever is controlling the injectors is out I think.
I have fuel,spark and air, there just not meeting in the chamber...
The exhaust pipe doesn't smell like fuel at all"
That may indicate the engine is not getting enough fuel.
"And yes the motor is blowing air."
Blowing air from where? Do you mean from the spark plug hole with the plug removed? Do you have good compression?
"I have had the normal lifter tap, but that can't be the problem you think?"
LIFTER TAP noise is NOT normal.
Any ideas?
The air movement is from the exhaust pipe, to rule out any obstruction at the c converters.
And yes , good compression
Thanks and stay tuned
g
tidester, host
The interesting thing about that problem is that if the Air Intake Duct leaks, The engine will run very badly or not at all, and it will NOT light the Check Engine Light or set any computer codes, because everything is working as fine as it should, except the intake air is leaking past the MAF, bypassing the MAF, causing the computer to misread the amount of air going into the engine, making the computer think that there is very little air going into the engine, therfore making the injectors pump very lean.
Checking the fuel pressure is also a good idea.
Beware of Yellow Wiring Connectors! They mean STRICKLY - DANGER - DO NOT TOUCH!
The SRS (Supplimental Restraint System)(Air Bag System) is very dangerous to work on, can cause injury or death if an air bag explodes near you. It takes special training to work on them.
If you must work on or under the dash or under the seats, or on the steering wheel, or under the car near the front bumper or grill, or anywhere the yellow connectors and their wiring is, be sure to disconnect the car battery and let it set for at least 10 minutes before you touch anything. Also pull the SRS fuse.
Remember, Safety First!
It didn't solve my noisey front end problem and after the fluid change, the car started shaking a lot during turns. I brought it back to the shop, and they said they'll look at it today, but the the vibration seemed to have gone away. The slight leak is apparently normal because Ford doesn't make a gaskt for those ax covers. Now they tell me....
WHo knows any more with these things....I am not changing my spark plugs or wires for awhile, since it's a pain-in-the-neck and expensive; And because nothing is wrong with my car. It's a v6 sohc with 99k miles.
Anyone have an idea as to what to try next? The noise is so loud that I can hear it with the windows up between 5 and 30mph.
If you still have a squeal, then check all the pullies, take great care to keep clear of the fan and belt! You can use a length of vacuum hose to locate the squeal, put one end to your ear and probe the other end near where the squeal might be, keeping clear of all moving parts. If squealing is not found in the pullies, then check the alternator bearings.
Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida
I have found a number of 96-99 Explorers in that price range that I am thinking about going to look at in the next week or so.
I was wondering what probelms with those model years are most common, and if there is anything specific I should look out for while I kick the tires.
Thanks!
You may want to read the bottom part of this page:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CV_joint
2. When I am driving and get to about 25-35 mph, my engine makes this knocking sound. it does sound like when you don't have enough oil..I checked my oil had an oil change and fluids they are fine.
any suggestions.
I just don't want my engine to blow.
In the meantime, you should switch to "manual" mode. If you still have problems with the heat, then you have another problem.