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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

19192949697125

Comments

  • santarsantar Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 2000 explorer. High pitch squeal coming from the front end. Brakes good as well as bearings?
  • offroadfunoffroadfun Member Posts: 2
    I'll state up front that I've had a lot of problems with transmissions with this vehicle. Assuming that the more recent problems aren't related to the previous problems, I'll stick to just this transmissions' issues. About 6 months ago, I replaced the stock rebuilt tranny with a lifetime warranted heavy duty one (from Cottman) since I was planning on using it off road. Also, about the same time, I had to put a new transfer case in. The first problem that I began having was a bouncing speedometer, which kept me from using the speed control. I replaced the sensor and sensor plastic gear. Problem solved...for about 6 months. The problem came back with a vengeance. Speed reading all over the place, leaving the transmission confused as to what gear to be in. Tranny guy said it was a speedometer issue and sent me to a speedometer specialists. The specialist said it was a warn "Aluminum" gear in the transmission driving the plastic sensor pickup gear. Tranny guy says no it's not in the tranny but in the transfer case and it's plastic not aluminum and the transfer case warranty doesn't cover plastic. Question...Is the internal gear plastic or aluminum? and is it located in the tranny or transfer case? Also, Tranny guy replaced the pickup and external plastic gear and it mostly works but....at highway speeds..60 to 70 mph the car gets random jolts. the jolts don't appear to be shifting because no detectable change in rpm. Could this be the torque converter lock going in and out of lock at random or is it some other issue?
  • groovhoggroovhog Member Posts: 6
    Update on 92 EB

    No compression... ....CAM CHAIN BROKE

    BUT WAIT...
    Put it all together to spec. primed the fuel system and cranked engine to mill oil over new parts, (cam chain, sprockets, new rockers and rods ((to get rid of the crazy tappppping noise)) ).

    It started for about 10 seconds then nothing.
    Checked spark, good
    Checked fuel, good

    Checked fuel pressure...
    ingition on. 35 psi
    then quickly down to ZERO

    Then found fuel around 5 of my injectors.

    Do you think the new found compression forced the fuel out past the injectors' o-rings?

    And I thought CSI was cool...
    G

    Car Scene Investigations
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Seems like I've seen this post before...
    Sounds like you definetly have fuel injector leaks, if it went back down to zero quickly, I assume that was after you turned the key off. The system should hold pressure after you turn the key off. You need to remove all the injectors and carefully check all the o-rings, since you are getting external fuel leaks. Did you reuse the old o-rings or use new o-rings? The o-rings must be the correct size and thickness and be lubricated, then carefully slide the parts together, being careful not to cut or tear the o-rings.

    I'm curious about the cam chain, how did that break? That is an extremely rare thing to happen. They would usually just stretch with age and jump out of time. Is the compression back up to where it should be now? What are your compression readings?

    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • 97xltbeep97xltbeep Member Posts: 16
    Hi,

    97 AWD XLT 5.0l, 90000 miles. took it in for oil change today and looking at the invoice it turns out that they used 5w20, no brand name specified.
    searched this forum for 5w20 and it returned no results -- not a popular oil grade with these engines I suppose. is that going to cause any harm to the engine? should I have it replaced?

    Thanks.
  • hsodemannhsodemann Member Posts: 1
    I had the same proplem with the pinging sound.It went away
    when I used HI TEST.I have a 98 Explorer with 4l OSHC.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Your engine should NOT ping using 87 octane. If the problem gets too intense for too long, it can cause engine damage. Is should be corrected right away. Do you get any Check Engine Light (CEL)? Some faults will cause this to happen without setting the CEL, such as weak oxygen sensors and dirty Mass Air Flow sensors. These are common problems.

    Check the operation of the Oxygen Sensors with an engine scanner to see if they are responding properly, or have them checked by your mechanic. The first thing that happens to them as they age is that they become lazy and respond slowly, then as they get worst the responses get weaker and weaker. When Oxygen Sensors get weak, they send the wrong signal to the computer which then sends the wrong signal to the fuel injectors, making the fuel mixture wrong when accellerating and causing the pinging. They can also damage the catalylitic Converters by allowing unburnt fuel in the exhaust into them. The engine needs the correct fuel/air mixture under all driving conditions for complete burning of the fuel. New oxygen sensors may fix this, you may not need to replace all four. The scanner should show which ones are not operating correctly, Replace only those.

    The same thing applies to the MAF, it is basicly a device in the air tube right near the air cleaner box with a tiny heating coil and a thermisistor, it tells the computer how much air is going into the engine. It can get dirty and send the wrong signal to the computer and make the engine ping without setting the CEL. Cleaning it is easy if your are CAREFUL. The tiny heating wire is very fragil like a filament wire in a light bulb, and can be lightly sprayed with a cleaning solvent like Electra Clean or CRC, but do not touch or brush the tiny wire. You can find instructions on how to clean the MAF by Googling "cleaning maf", or take it to your mechanic.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • offroadfunoffroadfun Member Posts: 2
    Your Guess was right, it's a 4.0L SOHC 6 cyl engine. I'll have to look up the transmission model. I also had a 2002 V8 explorer but traded it in before gas prices soared past $3. It had about 36,000 so nowhere near the mileage of 72,000 when my first transmission failed. I'll be checking the location of the pickup soon. The same guy who rebuilt the tranny is in fact the same guy who provided the transfer case. I have a feeling that I might have to pull the sensor pickup and try to take a picture of the internal gear, if that is possible.

    Thanks a lot for taking the time to answer my questions.
  • mabeasonmabeason Member Posts: 1
    My 1998 Explorer will not go into overdrive. When it does go into overdrive it will get kicked out into neutral and then the overdrive light will begin flashing.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    If you haven't already addressed this, try a body shop. I'm sure they have had to make this repair before on an Explorer. Plus their hourly rates are cheaper than a dealership.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Shouldn't be a problem. Ford has been specifying this oil for the past couple of years supposedly to improve gas mileage.
  • mr1mr1 Member Posts: 1
    How can I disengage the alarm on my vehicle. It goes off for no reason
  • hawkfan1hawkfan1 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 99 Explorer XLT about 18 months ago and have never engaged the 4WD. I know that this is something that should be done on a regular basis and am kicking myself for not doing so yet. I had the 90K service done last month so assume that everything should be good to go. The car has a 4WD high and low switch. Is there anything I should be aware of before I turn on the 4WD? Also does the 4WD need to be switched on before I start the car or can this be done while the car is running? Also, what's the difference between the high and low?
  • kuppykuppy Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem, have you found a solution......Kuppy :mad:
  • kuppykuppy Member Posts: 3
    my 1996 Explorer recently had a broken flywheel, has anyone had this same problem?..Kuppy :confuse:
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    What Trans? I assume it a manual, never heard of one to break. How bad a break, did it come apart? What happened to the clutch? Did it break near the bolt holes or towards the edge? Was it during normal driving or was it high reving, like in racing or hot rodding?
  • airhog1airhog1 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 02 Explorer, no owners manual - anyone know how to set the compass?
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Member Posts: 245
    you can download the manual for free from www.fordvehicles.com
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I would not do it for the sake of exercising the 4WD. You should not use 4wd high on anything but slick surfaces like rain and snow. The low setting should only be used in low traction areas like sand, mud, deep snow, etc. The reason for this is the 4wd system locks your front wheels to spin in unison. It relies on the surface to provide slip need to keep the wheel going. If you make a turn, the inside wheel typically spins at a differnet rate than the outside wheel. In 4WD they spin at the same rate so it needs the surface to provide the slip needn't so they spin at different rates. If there is no slip, it can cause serious damage to the system. I had a 91 Explorer and had to replace the hubs to a tune of $800.

    you can shift into 4wd high up to 50 mph. Quite honestly, if you need 4wd you should not be driving that fast.
  • kuppykuppy Member Posts: 3
    Automatic trans, broke in center around bolt holes and slipped under moderate towing. I had put in a Jasper trans and had less than 8,000 miles on it. trans went too. Jasper replaced in full.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    So it was actually the Flex Plate that broke, the plate that bolts the torque converter to the engine. It is unusual to see one of these break, usual cause would be cracks caused by stress or vibration, caused by loose bolts on flex plate to crankshaft or else loose bolts on flex plate to torque converter. Was the Flex plate the stock Flex plate that had been on the engine before? Where all bolts securely fastened? Was a new or remanufactured and balanced torque converter used? Jasper is about the best remanufactured trans you can get, did you get the trans complete with the remanufactured torque converter? So Jasper replaced the transmission, torque converter, and you bought a new stock flex plate and bolted it all on? First time I've heard of a problem with a Jasper Transmission, but it might have been a cracked flex plate that made the whole thing blow, I suspect that would be the most likely cause of the problem. If you now have everything bolted together tight with no vibration and running smooth, you should not have any more problems with it.
    Good Luck
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • courtjester509courtjester509 Member Posts: 2
    Does this have anything to do with the crank shaft positioning sensor. Truck runs very rough, feels like engine is cutting out. Check engine light blinks.
  • courtjester509courtjester509 Member Posts: 2
    This is for 1996 Explorer AWD V8
  • rmncoknmermncoknme Member Posts: 18
    Pretty simple to reset the compass. Just go to a parking lot and turn around in circles a few times. The compass resets to north when it sees it a couple of times....
  • dpskimandpskiman Member Posts: 1
    At a stand still, put the transmission in Neutral, then move to 4W High. It should switch over in a couple of seconds. Same procedure for 4WL or 2WH changes... at least that's what the book on my 01 Explorer says, and it works. :D
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I think P0300 means there is a random misfire in the cylinder. Do a Google search "Explorer P0300" to gather more infomration.
  • explorer_chicexplorer_chic Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Explorer and have the same problem. I contacted my local Parts Dept to get a quote on a replacement and to replace the unit was over $1000. The Parts Dept Manager recommended that I contact a local radio shop who does a swap out. I called them and they will do that for $250. The radio shop indicated that it is a common problem and a design flaw by Pioneer.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    1997 was a great year for Ford Explorer. Our 1997 Explorer XLT with 5.0L V8 is just fabulous in 2006 with over 142,500 miles on it. It has original Engine, Transmission & Radio, all operating flawlessly like new. Only a few items have been replaced, Radiator one time, Multifunction Switch one time, Lower Ball Joints one time, Cruise Control Buttons one time, and of course the usual wear items like belt, brakes, tires, etc...
    It's really been and still is a highly outstanding vehicle, and we plan to drive it into 2008. I dare say it's the best vehicle we have ever owned!
    I think my 2000 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0L V8 is going to turn out just as good.
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Member Posts: 56
    I've been looking at pics of '98 Explorer v6 sohc engines (the same one in my truck). I've noticed all the Motorcraft wire boots are black. Is this true for all their wires?

    My wires are grey, but I have Orange wire boots. I figure this would be an easy way to tell whether they've been changed already by the PO. It beats ripping off a boot and ruining wires, by testing it with a multi meter.

    They look new. I bet the PO changed them at 50k. It now has a hundo k miles; it was purchased with 88k miles. It runs great no hesitation or anything and starts right up on the coldest days.

    My lazy mechanic doesn't want to change them and the plugs, and for good reason -- it looks difficult. I sure do not want to be bothered either.

    Although I wouldn't mind better gas mileage. I am only getting 14/gallon -- down from 18/gallon. The 18 was when I would joy ride more, when I first bought the vehicle in the Summer ie more highway mixed in. I've been driving my usual commute -- just a parking lot. Also it is cold now here. I have noticed with my other vehicles, that matters a lot, with gas mileage. Thanks
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    My 1997 Explorer XLT 5.0L V8 also has gray wires with orange boots. I don't know if they are original, bought at about 95,000 miles, now 144,000.
    If engine is running good, leave them on. To avoid ripping boots, Twist boots back a forth while pulling them off, then put dielectric silicone grease in each boot before pushing them back on. Then they won't stick anymore. Large spark plug gaps cause the wires to burn, so be sure the gaps are not too big. I like to gap mine a little closer than spec, to make the wires last longer.
  • shannonmshannonm Member Posts: 6
    Just an update -

    My gas mileage and power is back! I had to take my Explorer in for rear brakes and mentioned to the mechanic my problem. He gave my throttle body a good cleaning and that did the trick! It is great to have the issue resolved.

    Thanks to those that responded!
  • guzziriderguzzirider Member Posts: 3
    I have a high-mileage, nearly 300k; '94 Explorer I've owned since new. My son uses it as an urban comuter. It has been relatively troublefree but in the last 100k a problem arose with the motor losing power after having been driven 100 or so miles non-stop. It lugs badly but if you go to WOT the motor responds well and after the vehicle sets for a while it runs fine until driven an hour or two non-stop. The motor has good plugs and wires and the MAF sensor is clean. Any help would be appreciated!
    Thanks!
  • carsarcarsar Member Posts: 1
    While driving home my door locks started making a noise as if they were closing and opening by themselves. The noise continued for sometime after the car was stopped. I am able to open the door manually. However, I am unable to open or close the door lock by pressing the open or close button on my 2001 Ford Explorer Sport. If you have any ideas as to what caused this or more importantly what part might be the culprit I look forward to hearing from you. Hopefully, its something easy like a relay. Let me know thanks. :confuse:
  • pappalardoppappalardop Member Posts: 1
    i have a 97 ford explorer, just bought, all the doors except for one were opened, and everything was working fine. then someone gets in my back drivers side door, shut it, it says door ajar. went around and checked all doors, all shut, but still says door ajar, and light stays on. could it be a door switch or sensor? sounds like it. where is it located, whats it look like?
  • jd8jd8 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I ve now struggled with defective fuel and watertemp. gauges for quite while. They constantly show wrong engine temperature and empty tank.
    First i changed the water temp. sending unit. - nothing else happened with the gauge. I gave earth to the temp.sending unit cable. - The gauge showed max temp.(warm).
    I checked the contacktpoints for both of the gauges in the dashboard. They both have about 10volts.
    In the morning, when the car has been standing still for a long time, I can see that the pointers have moved about 0.5inches closer to warm/full. They both drop again when I turn the ignition on.
    when driving a steep hill, I can see that the temp gauge moves a few inches up to the normal range.

    What can cause these failures?
    All replys will be appreciated!
    - JD
  • mtnman1mtnman1 Member Posts: 431
    I have a 2004 Mountaineer. All of the sudden a few days ago the Message Center had "Check Fuel Cap" lit on it. I stopped and checked it, but it was fine. I thought maybe it could be the tank was very low. Went and filled up, but still got the message. Any ideas out there?
    2012 Highlander Limited AWD V6 and 2015 Ford Fusion Hybrid SE
  • mtnman1mtnman1 Member Posts: 431
    I had a similar problem with a Company car which was a 2000 Taurus. At about 45,000 miles the locks would just start locking and unlocking as I was driving on the expressway. Never got it fixed because my company was changing to an auto allowance and getting rid of the Company Cars. I'd be curious what you find out about your ford.
    2012 Highlander Limited AWD V6 and 2015 Ford Fusion Hybrid SE
  • boofboof Member Posts: 1
    We bought a 1997 Ford Explorer in Australia. We had to replace the belt tensioner after 8 months and no mechanic could explain the odd noise when the car was cold and we accelerated. We found out what it was when the timing chain went - now up for a new engine which can't be sourced here & has to come from the US - cost is $9000. NEVER again!
  • guzziriderguzzirider Member Posts: 3
    Perhaps the thermostat is bad and the gauge is actually working properly. Had that happen to me before. Thermostats are cheap enough and easy to change. I also had a fuel gauge problem after my '94 Explorer set for a couple of months. It now works sporadically. I believe the sending unit in the tank is bad. My son now drives the Explorer and he just fills up every 125 miles or so regardless of what the gauge reads. The gauges creeping up overnight and then dropping back when you turn the ignition on is common in these vehicles from my experience.
    Good luck!!
    Al
  • welder9999welder9999 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1992 Ford Explorer Sport and in the last 2 weeks the rear wiper and interior lights have come on with the switchs off. The wiper stopped on its own but I have had to pull the fuse to turn off the lights. Would appreciate any advice.
  • tallgeesetallgeese Member Posts: 2
    I have a 91 ford explorer eddy bauer edition and it seems that my starter won't disengage. i have replaced the starter twice and the selenoid on the firewall and the ignition and still the starter won't disengage and im pretty confused right now as of what else to do. both of the starters came new directly from ford and i figure i can't get 2 bad starters in a row so its got to be something else. any help or insight would be greatly appreciated.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    You must determine that the electricity to the starter is actually going off, and that the solenoid is working properly. Use about a 6 to 8 foot length of insulated wire and a 12 volt test light. Connect one end of the wire to the battery cable terminal on the starter, and run the other end up above the engine, connected to one side of the test light. Connect the other side of the test light to a good ground. Be sure to route the wire carefully, so that it will not catch on anything like the fan or belts. Position the test light so that you can see it while cranking the engine. In normal operation, the test light should light when you turn the key to the start position, and go out when you release the key from the start position.
    If the test light stays on when you release the key, that means the solenoid is sticking on, causing the starter to continue to run, when it should not. In that case check the solenoid wiring and connections or replace the solenoid.
    If the test light goes off when you release the key from the start position, and the starter remains engaged, the problem is in the starter itself or the starter bendix, or the starter is not aligned correctly, causing it to bind. Be sure that the starter mounting opening is clear and clean before installing the starter, to be sure it seats nice and straight. Check the flywheel teeth to be sure they are not damaged. If you are very sure that the starter is installed straight and correctly, then replace the starter and or starter bendix. The 1991 to 1994 were all the same engine and starter. I replaced a starter on a 1993 Explorer on the side of the road, and it was very easy to do. It simply would not start after I filled up with gas at a gas station. I pushed it off to the side, checked it out, and walked a few blocks to the Auto Parts Store. After disconnecting the battery, undoing the wiring, just undo the 2 bolts and it drops out. As I remember, the installation was just the reverse, put the starter back in place, insert and tighten the 2 bolts, reconnect the wires and reconnect the battery.
  • nana666nana666 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Explorer. 4.0L. I have a hard time starting it
    when it is first cranked-idle fluctuates up and down. Then runs good until you go to slow down and turn and then it just
    shuts off. We have replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump.
    HELP!
  • annabelle231annabelle231 Member Posts: 3
    where is the heater plenum? i have the same problem, and i need to fix it! thanks in advance.
  • mporembamporemba Member Posts: 2
    First time poster, so not sure if this will get a response. I just started noticing problems with the transmission. From a stopped position, the transmission seems to be skipping a gear. RPMs go up too fast. I have 79,000 miles. Last year at 69,000 miles I had a local transmission shop change the fluid and replace the filter.

    Will I have to replace the transmission? Should I take it back to the local shop or to a Ford Dealership? Could this be a warranty issue? (I did get Ford pay for the replacement of the intake manifold gaskets and chain tentioners after I called the regional customer service number. had 64,000 miles, but they found some sort of extended warranty coverage). If their is no chance Ford will pay to fix the transmission, should I take it back to the local shop. I assume it would cost a lot less.
  • mporembamporemba Member Posts: 2
    First time poster, so not sure if this will get a response or how fast. I just started noticing problems with the transmission. From a stopped position, the transmission seems to be skipping a gear. RPMs go up too fast. I have 79,000 miles. Last year at 69,000 miles I had a local transmission shop change the fluid and replace the filter. Will I have to replace the transmission? Should I take it back to the local shop or to a Ford Dealership? Could this be a warranty issue? (I did get Ford to pay for the replacement of the intake manifold gaskets and chain tentioners after I called the regional customer service number. I had 64,000 miles, but they found some sort of extended warranty coverage). If there is no chance Ford will pay to fix the transmission, should I take it back to the local shop? I assume it would cost a lot less.
  • msexpxltmsexpxlt Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    Drove to Las Vegas from Los Angeles Super Bowl Weekend and about an hour into the trip It felt like my right tires were about to come off of the pavement and that the backend was coming around towards the left as if a strong wind gust was hitting the passenger side door. Thought my car was about to roll over - this happened for the rest of the 3 hour trip some places worst then others- made for one heck of a scary ride. The problem didn't seem to happen while I was driving around Vegas but 15 minutes into the trip back to LA it started again - bad enough for me to turn around and find the first mechanic. The Suspension, Shocks, Brakes, Axles all checked out fine and when he test drove it he didn't feel anything out of the ordinary but he only took on surface streets not the highway. He commented about my back tires (Hancook DynaPro AS P235/75R15 which I had bought two weeks prior) Being made with a softer rubber then the fronts and thought it might be that the tires were heating up and could cause menuverability problems. Has anyone else had this kind of problem? Consumer reports gave this tire a really good rating though I am wondering if they sold me the right tire for this year. Any info would be greatly appreciated ASAP - Stuck in Vegas trying to decide weather to gamble on two new tires or play it safe - call in to work on Monday and take it to the Ford Dealership before I get on the road again.
  • capriracercapriracer Member Posts: 907
    I wonder if what you experienced is caused by grooves in the road interacting negatively with the tires. All the facts seem to fit.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    Those groves near stateline ( on the Nevada side)will cause this on that new stretch of highway. They really put some groves in the new concrete because of flash flooding there. I felt it like you did.
  • 4xford4xford Member Posts: 1
    Hello. I have a 2003 Explorer XLT. In the last year, the car alarm has repeatedly gone off after unlocking it w/the remote, or has 'armed' itself even though it was not locked in the first place (such as on the driveway while washing the car). Reaching for the door handle has begun to feel like a game of Russian Roulette - my nerves are shot and the dealer tells me the vehicle is supposed to do this! The 'door ajar' light has recently opted to stay on for most of the day - at times turning off. Add the recent but infrequent knocking inside the front console, and I'm wondering if I should trade this truck in. It has 60000 miles on it.
    Thanks for any advice. My dealership hasn't been helpful. :confuse:
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