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Comments
No compression... ....CAM CHAIN BROKE
BUT WAIT...
Put it all together to spec. primed the fuel system and cranked engine to mill oil over new parts, (cam chain, sprockets, new rockers and rods ((to get rid of the crazy tappppping noise)) ).
It started for about 10 seconds then nothing.
Checked spark, good
Checked fuel, good
Checked fuel pressure...
ingition on. 35 psi
then quickly down to ZERO
Then found fuel around 5 of my injectors.
Do you think the new found compression forced the fuel out past the injectors' o-rings?
And I thought CSI was cool...
G
Car Scene Investigations
Sounds like you definetly have fuel injector leaks, if it went back down to zero quickly, I assume that was after you turned the key off. The system should hold pressure after you turn the key off. You need to remove all the injectors and carefully check all the o-rings, since you are getting external fuel leaks. Did you reuse the old o-rings or use new o-rings? The o-rings must be the correct size and thickness and be lubricated, then carefully slide the parts together, being careful not to cut or tear the o-rings.
I'm curious about the cam chain, how did that break? That is an extremely rare thing to happen. They would usually just stretch with age and jump out of time. Is the compression back up to where it should be now? What are your compression readings?
Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida
97 AWD XLT 5.0l, 90000 miles. took it in for oil change today and looking at the invoice it turns out that they used 5w20, no brand name specified.
searched this forum for 5w20 and it returned no results -- not a popular oil grade with these engines I suppose. is that going to cause any harm to the engine? should I have it replaced?
Thanks.
when I used HI TEST.I have a 98 Explorer with 4l OSHC.
Check the operation of the Oxygen Sensors with an engine scanner to see if they are responding properly, or have them checked by your mechanic. The first thing that happens to them as they age is that they become lazy and respond slowly, then as they get worst the responses get weaker and weaker. When Oxygen Sensors get weak, they send the wrong signal to the computer which then sends the wrong signal to the fuel injectors, making the fuel mixture wrong when accellerating and causing the pinging. They can also damage the catalylitic Converters by allowing unburnt fuel in the exhaust into them. The engine needs the correct fuel/air mixture under all driving conditions for complete burning of the fuel. New oxygen sensors may fix this, you may not need to replace all four. The scanner should show which ones are not operating correctly, Replace only those.
The same thing applies to the MAF, it is basicly a device in the air tube right near the air cleaner box with a tiny heating coil and a thermisistor, it tells the computer how much air is going into the engine. It can get dirty and send the wrong signal to the computer and make the engine ping without setting the CEL. Cleaning it is easy if your are CAREFUL. The tiny heating wire is very fragil like a filament wire in a light bulb, and can be lightly sprayed with a cleaning solvent like Electra Clean or CRC, but do not touch or brush the tiny wire. You can find instructions on how to clean the MAF by Googling "cleaning maf", or take it to your mechanic.
Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida
Thanks a lot for taking the time to answer my questions.
you can shift into 4wd high up to 50 mph. Quite honestly, if you need 4wd you should not be driving that fast.
Good Luck
E.D. in Sunny Florida
It's really been and still is a highly outstanding vehicle, and we plan to drive it into 2008. I dare say it's the best vehicle we have ever owned!
I think my 2000 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0L V8 is going to turn out just as good.
My wires are grey, but I have Orange wire boots. I figure this would be an easy way to tell whether they've been changed already by the PO. It beats ripping off a boot and ruining wires, by testing it with a multi meter.
They look new. I bet the PO changed them at 50k. It now has a hundo k miles; it was purchased with 88k miles. It runs great no hesitation or anything and starts right up on the coldest days.
My lazy mechanic doesn't want to change them and the plugs, and for good reason -- it looks difficult. I sure do not want to be bothered either.
Although I wouldn't mind better gas mileage. I am only getting 14/gallon -- down from 18/gallon. The 18 was when I would joy ride more, when I first bought the vehicle in the Summer ie more highway mixed in. I've been driving my usual commute -- just a parking lot. Also it is cold now here. I have noticed with my other vehicles, that matters a lot, with gas mileage. Thanks
If engine is running good, leave them on. To avoid ripping boots, Twist boots back a forth while pulling them off, then put dielectric silicone grease in each boot before pushing them back on. Then they won't stick anymore. Large spark plug gaps cause the wires to burn, so be sure the gaps are not too big. I like to gap mine a little closer than spec, to make the wires last longer.
My gas mileage and power is back! I had to take my Explorer in for rear brakes and mentioned to the mechanic my problem. He gave my throttle body a good cleaning and that did the trick! It is great to have the issue resolved.
Thanks to those that responded!
Thanks!
First i changed the water temp. sending unit. - nothing else happened with the gauge. I gave earth to the temp.sending unit cable. - The gauge showed max temp.(warm).
I checked the contacktpoints for both of the gauges in the dashboard. They both have about 10volts.
In the morning, when the car has been standing still for a long time, I can see that the pointers have moved about 0.5inches closer to warm/full. They both drop again when I turn the ignition on.
when driving a steep hill, I can see that the temp gauge moves a few inches up to the normal range.
What can cause these failures?
All replys will be appreciated!
- JD
Good luck!!
Al
If the test light stays on when you release the key, that means the solenoid is sticking on, causing the starter to continue to run, when it should not. In that case check the solenoid wiring and connections or replace the solenoid.
If the test light goes off when you release the key from the start position, and the starter remains engaged, the problem is in the starter itself or the starter bendix, or the starter is not aligned correctly, causing it to bind. Be sure that the starter mounting opening is clear and clean before installing the starter, to be sure it seats nice and straight. Check the flywheel teeth to be sure they are not damaged. If you are very sure that the starter is installed straight and correctly, then replace the starter and or starter bendix. The 1991 to 1994 were all the same engine and starter. I replaced a starter on a 1993 Explorer on the side of the road, and it was very easy to do. It simply would not start after I filled up with gas at a gas station. I pushed it off to the side, checked it out, and walked a few blocks to the Auto Parts Store. After disconnecting the battery, undoing the wiring, just undo the 2 bolts and it drops out. As I remember, the installation was just the reverse, put the starter back in place, insert and tighten the 2 bolts, reconnect the wires and reconnect the battery.
when it is first cranked-idle fluctuates up and down. Then runs good until you go to slow down and turn and then it just
shuts off. We have replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump.
HELP!
Will I have to replace the transmission? Should I take it back to the local shop or to a Ford Dealership? Could this be a warranty issue? (I did get Ford pay for the replacement of the intake manifold gaskets and chain tentioners after I called the regional customer service number. had 64,000 miles, but they found some sort of extended warranty coverage). If their is no chance Ford will pay to fix the transmission, should I take it back to the local shop. I assume it would cost a lot less.
Drove to Las Vegas from Los Angeles Super Bowl Weekend and about an hour into the trip It felt like my right tires were about to come off of the pavement and that the backend was coming around towards the left as if a strong wind gust was hitting the passenger side door. Thought my car was about to roll over - this happened for the rest of the 3 hour trip some places worst then others- made for one heck of a scary ride. The problem didn't seem to happen while I was driving around Vegas but 15 minutes into the trip back to LA it started again - bad enough for me to turn around and find the first mechanic. The Suspension, Shocks, Brakes, Axles all checked out fine and when he test drove it he didn't feel anything out of the ordinary but he only took on surface streets not the highway. He commented about my back tires (Hancook DynaPro AS P235/75R15 which I had bought two weeks prior) Being made with a softer rubber then the fronts and thought it might be that the tires were heating up and could cause menuverability problems. Has anyone else had this kind of problem? Consumer reports gave this tire a really good rating though I am wondering if they sold me the right tire for this year. Any info would be greatly appreciated ASAP - Stuck in Vegas trying to decide weather to gamble on two new tires or play it safe - call in to work on Monday and take it to the Ford Dealership before I get on the road again.
Thanks for any advice. My dealership hasn't been helpful. :confuse: