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Comments
has problem with passenger door ajar light twice - replaced switch both times. 3rd time, obviously NOT the switch, they replaced/checked the wiring and has been since since.
if that is the only problem you have at 60k I dont believe that warrants trading it in.
as for the alarm - the manual is not very clear when and how it arms. perhaps ford could tell you how and it may help you here.
Any thoughts?
If you have a badly scored disk, it is best to replace it, as there is not likely enough "meat" on it to be able to get a clean turn, and it may have been heated and warped.
What kind of pads are you planning on using? Stock or aftermarket?
Thanks for the quick reply! I will make sure that I get a stock replacement disc. I am going to purchase Raybestos QS ceramic pads. I already have them on the front. I'm kind of disappointed in myself for missing a check of the rear brakes pads the last time I rotated my tires. I will consider the cost of the new disc as "tuition" for future maintenance procedures. One never stops learning.
Bioman
I buy my brake pads on the internet and keep them in stock in the garage, ready for when I need them.
I supposedly had a bad idle selenoid. They charged $85 for diagnostic and selenoid replacement, $44 for the part itself, and a whopping $150 for computer reprogramming.
To all you Ford experts and technicians, can you tell me if reprogramming was necessary? The piece bolts onto some manifold and has electrical plug. Why does the computer need reprogarmming?? The bill was some $309. I had a 1992 BMW 325i two years ago, and the idle selonoid went bad. It cost $28 to diagnose what was wrong and cost $95 for part and labor to replace it. There was NO computer programming.
Are these guys at this Ford dealership CREATING work to jack up the bill? Is there anyting in Ford technician manual that says to reprogram the computer?
Thanks,
Joe
I replaced the resistor for the A/C on a ford explorer 2002 V6 twice now. First time it last for about 2 weeks and the second time it burned out after 30 minutes. Has anybody an idea what the problem could be?
Thanks
Chris
Can somebody tell me why the air bag is comming off?
has anyone had any experience in this area. sound starts at 30 mph and gets worse with speed. my first guess would have been u-joint. Thanks
If the axle bearing and seal are ok, and the universal joints are not loose, then look for loose bearings in the rear axle. Check the pinion bearings by having transmission in neutral, wheels safely blocked, pushing side to side on the companion flange. There should be ZERO play. If any play at all, the pinion bearings are shot. Then the internal carrier bearing must be checked by removing the rear cover, draining the lubricant, and pulling side to side, up and down and in and out on the carrier assembly. There should be ZERO play. If any play at all, the carrier bearings are shot. Replacing bearings and shims and setup should be left to a professional.
Thanks,
Richard--
Thanks!
Richard--
Guess problems come in bunches because yesterday the EGR valve started sticking again and the truck was stalling out at idle. I removed EGR valve and tested the vacuum diaphragm. While doing so noticed that the valve was sticking. Once again WD40 to the rescue. Cleaned off some of the carbon deposits, re-installed and the engine is running fine again. Since this happened about 20,000 miles ago I will make cleaning the EGR valve part of my regular maintenance. If this happens again I may just replace the EGR valve. I'm happy I was able to easily solve this problem, for now.
Joe
Good Luck!
Good Luck.
E.D. in Sunny Florida