Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

lee_lee · February 2006

my 2000 ford explorer just had a torque solenoid lock-up switch fixed and it just went out on me again what should i do?

rayz1 · February 2006

I have a '96 explorer xlt 4 disc brakes. I have a pull to the right on braking. It does it about 50% of the time. I pulled left caliper and made sure all was proper. I applied antiseize on the pins and the problem was still there. I then replaced both calipers with all new equipment(Pins, SS slide etc and I still have the same pull. I am at a loss at what to do next. Car has 156k miles on it I purchased it new and have flushed the brake fluid every couple of years since new. There is significantly more brake dust on the right wheel

guzzirider · February 2006

Could be a problem with the brake hose on the right side. They sometimes collapse, or partially collapse; internally and don't allow the caliper to retract. It might also be a good time to check the rear brakes, too.

ajmtbm · February 2006

door ajar light on a common problem in 02 models. perhaps the same in 03.

has problem with passenger door ajar light twice - replaced switch both times. 3rd time, obviously NOT the switch, they replaced/checked the wiring and has been since since.

if that is the only problem you have at 60k I dont believe that warrants trading it in.

as for the alarm - the manual is not very clear when and how it arms. perhaps ford could tell you how and it may help you here.

shannonm · February 2006

Ok - so maybe I spoke to soon. After a couple of tanks my mileage has dropped again. I can't figure out what is going on. It seems as if as long as something is cleaned, whether it be fuel injection cleaner or the throttle body cleaned, the mileage is back and then after a few tanks it gets gunked up again. So am I crazy in thinking that something is "dirtying" up things. If so, what could that be?

Any thoughts?

bioman · February 2006

I am going to have to replace the rear brake pads and one of the two rear discs on my 99 Explorer XLT 4WD. Is it accepted practice to replace one disc or does one have to replace the discs in pairs? I would much rather replace the badly scored disc than have it machined.

electricdesign · February 2006

You don't have to replace the disks in pairs, but they should both have the same characteristics. If you have a stock rotor on the good side, then use a stock rotor on the replacement side, don't mix and match stock, slotted, drilled, etc.
If you have a badly scored disk, it is best to replace it, as there is not likely enough "meat" on it to be able to get a clean turn, and it may have been heated and warped.
What kind of pads are you planning on using? Stock or aftermarket?

bioman · February 2006

Electricdesign,

Thanks for the quick reply! I will make sure that I get a stock replacement disc. I am going to purchase Raybestos QS ceramic pads. I already have them on the front. I'm kind of disappointed in myself for missing a check of the rear brakes pads the last time I rotated my tires. I will consider the cost of the new disc as "tuition" for future maintenance procedures. One never stops learning.

Bioman

electricdesign · February 2006

Regarding brake pads, for the benefit of the readers, the brake pad thickness should always be checked every time the tires are rotated. The tires are off then anyway, so it is easy to do it then. It should be recorded on the Service Checklist Sheet. At last take a look and them and note that the pad linings are not worn out. The lining is considered worn out when the lining material is worn down to the same thickness as the backing plate. Is is best to record the actual thickness of each pad lining, using a simple tool like a tire thread depth guage. This can helpful, as you can review the previous Service Checklists and determine the history of the brake pad and tire wear, calculate rate of wear, and estimate expected life. This would help you to plan when you need your next brake job.
I buy my brake pads on the internet and keep them in stock in the garage, ready for when I need them.

jodar96 · February 2006

I have a 2003 Explorer XLT sport with 53K miles. It appears that everytime I take it to my local Ford dealer, it costs me more than it should.

I supposedly had a bad idle selenoid. They charged $85 for diagnostic and selenoid replacement, $44 for the part itself, and a whopping $150 for computer reprogramming.

To all you Ford experts and technicians, can you tell me if reprogramming was necessary? The piece bolts onto some manifold and has electrical plug. Why does the computer need reprogarmming?? The bill was some $309. I had a 1992 BMW 325i two years ago, and the idle selonoid went bad. It cost $28 to diagnose what was wrong and cost $95 for part and labor to replace it. There was NO computer programming.

Are these guys at this Ford dealership CREATING work to jack up the bill? Is there anyting in Ford technician manual that says to reprogram the computer?

Thanks,
Joe

electricdesign · February 2006

I don't know if the computer reprograming was really necessary, I've replaced parts connected to the computer with no computer 'reflash', and it worked fine, but the newest I worked on was a 2000. Myself, I try to stay away from the Ford Dealer repair shop if at all possible, they are always sky high. They are out to 'sell' you something, maybe that's why they call it a sell-a-noid!

chris39 · February 2006

Hi ,

I replaced the resistor for the A/C on a ford explorer 2002 V6 twice now. First time it last for about 2 weeks and the second time it burned out after 30 minutes. Has anybody an idea what the problem could be?

Thanks

Chris

electricdesign · February 2006

I assume you are talking about the wire resistor for your fan speeds, that mounts into the side of the evaporator case, located under the hood, should have several wires connected to it, I think 4 or 5. It sounds like it is geting hot, could be caused by one of 2 things, first it could be electrical overload causing it to heat up OR second it could be restricted airflow over the resistor coils causing it to heat up. Pull out the resistor and check inside the evaporator housing for any leaves and anything that could cause the air not to blow on it. Run the A/C on HIGH speed with the resistor out and unplugged and see if you can feel good airflow through the resistor opening. If air flow seems good, the next thing to check is for is electrical overload, mostly likely caused by a short somewhere in the wiring. The short may be intermittent, and may be hard to find. If you don't have the electrical troubleshooting skills to find the problem, it's best to take it to someone who does.

lugo_189 · February 2006

Hello all.

Can somebody tell me why the air bag is comming off?

bioman · February 2006

If you mean that the airbag warning light on constantly, that means that you have a problem with the airbag circuitry and you should take the truck in and have it checked out ASAP. If you mean that the airbag is literally coming off of the steering wheel or the dash, the problem may be more urgent because you are dealing with a potential bomb that could cause fatal injury and you should deal with it immediately.

electricdesign · February 2006

It indicates that there is a malfunction in the air bag system. It may or may not be disabled. It is much too dangerous for an unqualified person to work on it. It has to be diagnosed with a special code reader for the purpose. I can NOT recommend that you to work on it, as the danger creates a large liablity. Take it to a dealer or a qualified shop for diagnosis and repair.

gs7729 · February 2006

hi i have an 01 explorer xlt the other day i rolled my drivers window down about half but when i tryed to roll it back up it just kept going down now its all the way down and i cant seem to get it back up ive also noticed a clicking sound coming from under the dash all the other windows are working fine any help would be appreciated.

zeak · February 2006

i have been hearing a wobbling/bearing sound from my left rear wheel. took my 1995 explorer to get tires rotated to see if it could be a tire. symptom remains the same; the tire dealer said i have rear end problems and best to locate a used assembly and replace.

has anyone had any experience in this area. sound starts at 30 mph and gets worse with speed. my first guess would have been u-joint. Thanks

electricdesign · February 2006

You need to get it diagnosed at a dealer or good shop right away. From what you say, it sounds like an electrical problem, the switch could be shorting out, making the motor run the window down, possibly the motor is staying on and the sound you hear could be the window circuit breaker reseting itself. It could burn up the window motor or worse. Get it checked right away.

electricdesign · February 2006

Did the tire dealer say anything else, like could he feel any play in the wheel or axle when they had the wheels off the ground? If sound is distinctly coming from the left wheel, the left axle bearing would be most likely at fault. But if it was, the tire guy should have detected some play in it, and also likely the the axle grease seal would be leaking and the grease would show up on the inside of the backing plate (look under the vehicle), and in the brake drum.
If the axle bearing and seal are ok, and the universal joints are not loose, then look for loose bearings in the rear axle. Check the pinion bearings by having transmission in neutral, wheels safely blocked, pushing side to side on the companion flange. There should be ZERO play. If any play at all, the pinion bearings are shot. Then the internal carrier bearing must be checked by removing the rear cover, draining the lubricant, and pulling side to side, up and down and in and out on the carrier assembly. There should be ZERO play. If any play at all, the carrier bearings are shot. Replacing bearings and shims and setup should be left to a professional.

tallgeese · February 2006

Ok so i have a 91 ford explorer eddy bauer edition and i have a problem that has pretty much stumped me so far. My starter won't disingage and i have replaced the starter twice(both brand new), the ignition, the ignition switch, and the selenoid. The wires look to be ok and in good shape. So what else could be causing this problem? I heard it could be bad teeth on the flywheel, i really need some help so does anyone have any suggestions or answers?

gs7729 · February 2006

hi thanks for the advice took my vehicle to the dealer motor- relay- switch-

all checked out ok but they did find a broke or frayed wire everything is ok now 376.00 out the door ouch but i live in minnesota money well spent.

fastpaul · February 2006

We have an '02 Explorer with 80,000 miles. For the past 2 years we've had it in the shop for an intermittent low pitch "thump-thump-thump" noise coming from the HVAC unit in the dash. They tried several fixes, until 4 months ago when the whole innards (electronic control unit) was replaced under our extended warranty. All seemed well until last week, when the noise returned. Now it seems most prominent after start-up. It's not related to temperature, control setting, throttle position, or phase of the moon. Any ideas??

electricdesign · February 2006

Does the thumping noise sound related to the fan speed in any way? Does it sound the same whether the vehicle is standing still or in motion?

electricdesign · February 2006

You asked this same exact question in messege #4822, and I gave you lengthy comprehensive diagnostic answers in messege #4823. I gave you all the information you should need. If you want to diagnose it yourself, you need the basic electrical and mechanical skills to carry out the directions I gave. You need test lights, electric meters and wiring and the ability to use them in a logical diagnostic fashion. If you can't figure it out, then take it to a shop where someone with the required skills can diagnose it for you. This forum is not about in-depth mechanical repairs of you car, as most readers are owners, not mechanics. If you need in-depth repair data, do a google search for automotive repair forums, and you will find lots of help there.

cjp7 · February 2006

3 strikes for repairs. Any suggestions for rough gear changes? Thx :sick:

ustazzaf · February 2006

Did they atleast kiss you when it was over? Ford must be trying to make up for lower sales by cheating the loyal customers. They program the computers when they are new, and other than resetting the code, there is no programing required. I would expect a story like that from the national chain with fire in their name, but i expected more from Ford. Bummer.

ustazzaf · February 2006

The only reason to replace rotors in pairs is if there is a major difference between the new one and the one you want to leave on the vehicle. If the new one is at .380 and the other at .320, you may want to replace both, not only because of the difference, but because the lower one is probably close to being out of spec. A difference of .030 or less is no big deal.

ustazzaf · February 2006

You SHOULD kick the vehicle into 4X4 just to exercise it. It keeps the parts that don't normally move lubed up. Most of the parts move anyway, but atleast the actuator that kicks in the 4X4 needs to stay limber. All you have to do is not turn corners or curves when engaged. I like to kick it when putting along at 30 or so in straight traffic. It is slow enough, but moving fast enough for lubrication. Just don't accelerate or decelerate while shifting in and out. Works best to be at a steady speed. You may have to increase or decrease speed very slightly to get it to kick in. To kick in and out of low range, you have to be stopped and should not go beyond 20 MPH.

converrl · February 2006

I have the same problem with my 94 Ford explorer please let me know if a solution has been found..

Thanks,
Richard--

converrl · February 2006

I have a problem with my explorer similar to a previous post on the same model vehicle. If I drive for some distance, stop, wait less than 30 min and try to restart the vehicle, it sometimes will not start--it is an intermittent problem and the dealer has no answer--any input is appreciated!

Thanks!

Richard--

bioman · February 2006

Thanks for this information. I did replace my rear brakes and the one rotor that was badly scored and my Explorer brakes are working just fine. Of course getting the old rotor off, since it was a bit frozen (it was not the parking brake shoes) to the rear axle, required some heat and WD40 and a gear puller. After that it was a piece of cake!!
Guess problems come in bunches because yesterday the EGR valve started sticking again and the truck was stalling out at idle. I removed EGR valve and tested the vacuum diaphragm. While doing so noticed that the valve was sticking. Once again WD40 to the rescue. Cleaned off some of the carbon deposits, re-installed and the engine is running fine again. Since this happened about 20,000 miles ago I will make cleaning the EGR valve part of my regular maintenance. If this happens again I may just replace the EGR valve. I'm happy I was able to easily solve this problem, for now.

tnderheart43 · February 2006

The 2002 has a lifetime fill transmission and therefore does not require a dipstick, according to Fords. I have a limited edition and am battling the dealership now for transmission troubles since having them change the trans fluid (they are the only ones that can).

tnderheart43 · February 2006

Have them check out the O2 sensor control on your truck. If it sounds like it wants to start but won't or it will start but the minute you let off the gas it dies then it is a good chance it is the O2 sensor or throttle body sensor.

tnderheart43 · February 2006

I have an 02 Explorer and replaced my 265 70 16 Mich. on it with Goodyear Wrangler RTS. What a mistake. My truck hydroplaned and had no traction in the snow. I put Mich. LTS back on and have had no troubles what so ever. The mich maybe pricey but well worth the investment. In less than 6 months I had spent 577 for the goodyears and Discount tire bought them back at reduced rate for milage and the mich cost was 550. Had I put the mich on to begin with it would have only cost me around 700 instead of 1100.

jodar96 · February 2006

Are you sure the tires size was 265 70 16? I replaced the 17" BF Goodrich 245 65 17" with Firestone Destination LE. They are OK, but are not as quite as the originals. If I have to redo this, I will get the BF Goodrich.

Joe

sjohns2 · February 2006

'96 Explorer 4X4 4.0L. Can anyone tell me how to replace the drivebelt tensioner? I am getting a "bearing" sound from the area of the tension when engine RPM exceeds about 1200. New alternator so its not that. Can't find instructions in my Haynes manual. Thanks

ustazzaf · February 2006

You both are on the right track with tires. The 3 I would reccommend as a "expert" are the Bridgestone Dueller AT, BFG AT, and the Michelen XCX. I really miss the early 80s Wrangler ATs. Those would take you anywhere in snow and loose gravel/mud and ride smooth getting you there.

bioman · February 2006

According to the Ford Workshop CD, there is one bolt to remove and the tensioner should come off. Reverse the procedure for installation. I'm not sure there is a caution due to the spring in the tensioner.

Good Luck!

sjohns2 · February 2006

Got it of. Just as you said. Thanks!

sjohns2 · February 2006

Reference #4871. I replaced the tensioner and idler pulleys and now the water pump. I still have the noise after the truck is warmed up for a few miles. Noise starts at about 1200 RMP. However, after about 10-15 miles the noise is constant even at idle. Any thoughts? Thanks!

electricdesign · February 2006

You need to find out if the noise is coming from anything related to the belt. It is possible the noise could be coming from somewhere else, like inside the engine. Is your 4.0L engine the OHV or the SOHC? When the engine is stone cold, and you start it, does it make this bearing noise? At 1200 RPM or over? If you can hear the noise on a cold start, then try this. Let the vehicle sit until it is cold, then remove the belt. Being sure that everything is clear, start the engine and listen for the sound. Don't run the engine more than a minute or two, it may overheat. If you still hear the noise, you will know to look elsewhere than you belt for the noise. If you don't hear the noise, then you know the sound IS related to the belt and you can go back and recheck the alternator, water pump, pullies, PS Pump, AC Clutch, etc. Reinstall the belt. You may have to use a mechanics stethascope to track the source of the noise, but be SURE you stay CLEAR of the moving Belt, Pullys and Accessories.
Good Luck.
E.D. in Sunny Florida

fastpaul · March 2006

It seems to go aeay when you increase the fan speed.Then at times it's not there at all. The sound is always the same.

crall444 · March 2006

I have a 03 explorer sport just turned 14000 miles. it has been towed to the shop 6 times since teen thousand miles with a no start condition after 30 minutes plus driving turn vehicle off come back 10-15 minutes later try to restart will not restart very intermitten and dealer has replaced all operating sensors will start after sitting for 2 hours or a long extened time "like over night " any clues please reply if found similer and repaired information still in the shop this time for going over 2 weeks has not failed on dealer ship at this time

sjohns2 · March 2006

E.D. Please don't rub it in about sunny Florida... From cold and windly Washington DC, Thanks for the tip. Even though the drivebelt only had about 5,000 miles on, I replaced it, clean all the pulleys, replaced the idler. Noise stopped. Thanks for the tip. Steve

noelnlucy · March 2006

I own a Mercury Montaineer 2000. It has a Mach radio and I have a problem with the cd player. When you try to load a cd it doesnt load. Also when you start the vehicle the radio gives a message "disk eject error." Any help in correcting this problem would help.

ajcstr · March 2006

My 2002 Explorer was diagnosed as needing a timing chain tensioner kit. I have 99k on the vehicle and I have a 100k mile Extra Care warranty. The job was quoted at $800 but they tell me it is not covered under the warranty. This does not make sense to me. Does the timing chain have to break for it to be covered? I'm thinking of writing to Ford on this one.

bioman · March 2006

Ford had a recall on the timing chain tensioners for their 97-2000 V6 SOHC engines. The problem was supposed to be fixed by 2002. You don't want to wait till the timing chain breaks, that will require a new engine. There are three timing chains on the SOHC engine. Don't write Ford, call them ASAP. Also, go to another dealership for a second opinion.

Mr_Shiftright · March 2006

You have to read the warranty exclusions and see if the tensioner is specifically excluded or not.

ajcstr · March 2006

I spoke to the service manager today and he looked it up and told me it is covered, so I don't know if someone botched the first attempt.

Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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