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had both left and right rear axle seals replaced just 20k miles ago. I thought the seals should last a tad longer than that. Service advisor at the dealer said the axle seal isn't a common problem with the explorers... blah blah blah.. and now my car is out of warranty (has 70k miles on it). Anyway, you think I should let the dealer perform the repair on this or can I trust independent shops over this matter. Dealer gave me an est. of $550.
Good Luck.
E.D. ISF
So I got my car back from the dealer, leak was fixed (replaced both seals again) and when I got home, I looked at the side of the car (drive side) and noticed the rear brake wire or cable was kind of hanging low in a clip (a pin like holder). I didn't remember seeing it that way before and when I compared it to the passenger side, the brake cable's also held by the same pin accept it's hanging high. For the longest time, I couldn't figure out how that happened, and then I noticed that someone had actucally bent that clip. Fortunately, the cable isn't touching the rear wheel (has a gap of about 1/2 inch). My question is, when they worked on the axle seals, you think they have to remove the brake cable and stuff?? I want to make sure before I go back and demand a new clip for that cable if the tech had bent it. Thanks.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
I remember last year when they fixed the seals the first time, they had to do it twice after the first repair. Maybe it will be fixed and good for another 20k miles after I bring it back for another repair next week. :confuse: :lemon:
Now when is Ford going to issue a recall on that so I can claim my $$$$$$$$$ :mad: :surprise:
Good Luck guys, sorry about your problems.
E.D. I.S.F.
I have read somewhere on the net today that the new aluminum housing for the rear axle couldn't tolerate heat too well thus it would somehow change shape (expansion?) which cause the seals to leak. Terrible design in my opinion if that's the case. I'm going in on Thursday again to have them look at it one more time. Hopefully it's the seals again and nothing else. Just paid $500 last Friday for the seals work... if not, I will just have the fluid filled every 5k miles when I go in for an oil change until I find a good replacement SUV. :lemon:
I have already started shopping today. Still doing my research. Currently looking at the Mercury Mariner (oh yeah... another Ford product...) and used Mercedes ML500.
By the way, does anyone know if the Mariner uses an aluminum housing for the rear axle? If yes, it's a no go.
Please do not assume that all aluminum parts are bad, some are very good, it all depends on the design. The Ford 4.6L V8 is an aluminum block that seems to be doing fairly well, and Chevrolet has their Straight 6 Aluminum engine that is doing well, and lots of these cars with the Front Wheel Drive Aluminum Engine and Aluminum transaxle are doing well. My daughter drove a 91 Saturn SC, small coup with an aluminum 1.9L and aluminum transaxle, and that thing ran forever, was still running perfect when it got totaled in 2004. The aluminum is not bad, it just needs good design and put together right, so don't write off another vehicle just because it has an aluminum axle or aluminum engine. Do your research and find out what kind of reputation it has and what it's weaknesses are. It is kind of hard to do that with the new models and new designs that come out. It takes time to see how well they do, and what the owners have to say about the cars, and how their service records look. That's why I buy used vehicles, and search for the tried and true designs. Well guys, Good Luck.
E.D. ISF
my brother in law has an '03 same power train as i do, 4.6 v8 with towing package.
he is more than willing to push it to the limit.
coming back to ct from florida, he said he decided to follow a mercedes 500. he said he kept it floored to keep up until he had to fill up with gas. i believe him, i have been on a trip like that with him in an '85 tbird (5.0 btw). his explorer has no drivetrain problems.
the other day my oldest child(daughter, hs senior next september) asked me to save the explorer for her until she gets out of college. when i ask why?, she says she won't need a vehicle until graduates. i went to pick her up from a voluntary sports practice in my '91 mustang gt convertible today, she wasn't interested in driving! kids today. :confuse:
all i am saying is, don't rule it out.
Good Luck,
E.D. In Sunny Florida
Thanks,
The unhappy Fixed Or Repaired Daily owner
Good Luck.
E.D. ISF
So I'd look beyond the tire balance, and see if you find worn suspension components. Could be ball joints, steering arm joints, bushings, etc. Anything that effects the three geometric angles of the front tire (caster, camber, toe-in).
I took it to any old place to get a verdict on what was wrong, just hoping it was freon that needed to be replaced. The shop told me it was the compressor leaking; which I suppose makes sense considering what I said a moment ago.
Can you do a patch job on a leaking compressor? The $575 estimate I got seems unreal. Are they difficult to install yourself? I never got into maintaining this truck myself since I need it for work and figured it would be best to let a pro do it. But screwing up an A/C installation won't affect the way it runs right?
In your case, I am assuming the compressor has no internal failure, and has not contaminated the system. You can not replace the compressor alone, the compressor warranty and good practice require that the orifice tube and the accumulator be replaced also. If you have not worked on air condition before, I must warn that there are dangers present involving moving parts and high pressures. If you are mechanically inclined, and seriously want to try to do the job yourself, I would first urge you to study and learn about how air conditioning works and how to repair it safely.
I would recommend that you check into the following web sites and learn all that you can about mobile air conditioning first:
http://www.ackits.com/
http://www.acsource.com/
For Parts:
http://www.lowesville.com/Air_Conditioning_Parts.htm
After you have studied and learned about mobile air conditioning from the above sites, and if you still want to do your own air conditioning repair work, you will need to acquire the tools and equipment that you will need. You will need basic mechanics hand tools for the general work of removing and replacing the parts. The specialized AC tools you may choose to buy or rent. First a good set of R134a AC gauges with hoses($100-$150). Second a good vacuum pump($200-$300). Third you may need spring lock tools($20) if your vehicle has spring lock connectors. Forth, a vent temperature thermometer($10).
When you are ready to start the project, have all the new parts and tools ready. Buy the compressor with NO oil in it, shipped DRY, so that you can add your own oil of the proper type. Have the proper AC oil, 9 ounces of "Double End Capped" PAG 100 oil. Have the old refrigerant recovered by a AC shop, they would probably do this for free, since they get to keep the refrigerant. It is against the law to intentionally discharge refrigerant into the air. Remove the Belt, Remove the compressor, Remove the orifice tube, and Remove the Accumulator. Since the system is now open, you have the opportunity to do an optional step, to flush the system(highly recommended), you could flush out the condenser, the evaporator and the hoses at this point if you would like. This would help to ensure a clean system and remove the old oil, which would help to ensure a long life for the new compressor. The cleanliness of the system is the most important factor for compressor life. Use new o-rings on all the connections. If you flushed out the system, you will now need to put in a full charge of oil, 9 ounces of "Double End Capped" PAG 100 oil. Put 4 ounces in the compressor, 2 ounces in the evaporator, 1 ounce in the condenser, and 2 ounces in the accummulator. Next install the compressor, orifice tube and the accumulator. Rotate the center hub of the compressor at least 10 times to clear oil from the valves. Then connect the gauges and vaccuum pump and pull a deep vaccuum(29" or more) on the system for an hour. Close the valves on the gauges and turn off the vaccuum pump, vacuum on the system should hold, watch it for at least 15 minutes to be sure the vaccuum doesn't creep up. If you loose vaccuum, look for a leak, check your connections, turn the compressor shaft to be sure the compressor shaft seal seals. Put the Vent Temperature Thermometer into the dash outlet vent of the vehicle. After evacuating and the vaccuum holds, ENGINE OFF, close both valves on gauges, connect refrigerant can to the gauges charging hose, purge the yellow charging hose of air, slowly open low side valve on gauges to slowly charge refrigerant into the vaccuum, holding can upside down, using the can tap valve to control the flow of refrigerant. After it takes all the refrigerant that it can, close valve on the can tap, set AC to max cool, high blower. Put the second can on the charging hose, START the ENGINE, then slowly open the can tap valve, using the can tap valve to control the flow of refrigerant in the vehicle. It may take up to 3 cans of refrigerant. Carefully watch the gauges as you slowly charge the system, pressures will rise. The exact pressures you need will vary according to the ambient temperatures at the time. Generally, you will want the low side pressure to read between 21 to 30lbs(25 is optimial in hot weather) and the high side pressure to read between 225 and 245lbs(230-235 is optimal in hot weather). Check the vent temps and feel the temps of the AC lines as you are charging. The temp at the accumulator should start to get cold as the charge approaches full, as the cold covers the accumulator and then the cold starts to move on the suction line towards compressor, it is almost full. Charge the last part in VERY SLOWLY, as it is VERY important NOT to OVERCHARGE the system. At this point the pressures should be reading good and you should just start to feel the COLD arrive at the suction port of the compressor. Adjust the charge slightly so that the pressures look good and the suction port is cold, DO NOT charge any more than that. If you charge too much, the system will become warmer and the pressures will be higher. Generally, the best cooling is obtained when there is just enough cold refrigerant to reach the suction port of the compressor and the pressure look good. If you are charging with the vehicle in the shade, the vent temp should be 50 degrees or colder once the system is stable and the vehicle cools down. You may now remove the gauges and equipment, as you should be done. Take a test drive with the vent thermometer in the dash vent, so that you can monitor the cooling. You should get between 45 to 50 degrees coming out of the vent, driving down the road.
If you can do all that, it will cost you about $325-$350 in parts, Plus the tools that you need, Plus your Labor. If it's worth it to you, and you feel capable, go ahead, but remember, Safety First. If you need any help, just ask.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
But I am starting to suspect that it wasn't my compressor or seals at all, but "the dryer" (who knew my truck has a "dryer?") The guy who installed it at the junkyard said that was probably leaking and not the compressor. Turns out he might be partly right; according to this article, the blanket around the dryer on late model Explorers causes the thing to rust and particles seep into the A/C system . . .
http://www.imcool.com/articles/aircondition/corroded_accumulator.htm
My dryer, sure enough is a rusty nail, and I did WD 40 and scrub off the little blanket there's left; I guess the rest deteriorated. But does that theory make sense in my case? Would gas seep out from clogging from the dryer?
The Junkyard tech actually had this sophisto machine -- he says it cost him 5 grand -- that cleaned my system and all.
That brings me to my next question is: do you think I should buy a new dryer and try to install that myself? Is at as EZ as unscrewing the 3 hoses attached to it? Or should I just ride this heat wave out with what cold air I have?
Happy 4th!
Very good post. I know some dealers are better than others. When I took my '02 in for the rear end problem, I was told, it wasn't that bad. And they were right. Others had it worse, but mine was still whinning between 55mph and 65 mph. They (Dealer) tries to find reasons NOT TO FIX IT under warranty. And as far as known problems with these models that include as you stated the rear-end and transmissions,I would like to include; the power window motors (rear), the piece of body work under the rear hatch (glass) that cracks, the very poor leather in the XLT models, if any of this stuff is broken EVEN AFTER WARRANTY AND THEY ARE KNOWN PROBLEMS, FORD SHOULD PAY TO FIX THEM!! PLAIN AND SIMPLE!! QUALITY IS JOB ONE!! Where? On the moon?
Regarding the leak, a leak is a leak, is a leak, no matter where it is. A good tech uses a leak detector ot dye to find the point of leakage. very small one can be hard to find. But no matter where it is, it has to be fixed, not matter if it's a rusy accumulator, or leaky compressor, condenser, evaporator or whatever. A leaky evaporator is usually the hardest and most expensive to fix.
I guess for the money you spent, $320, you didn't do too bad, considering your position and the heat. So I guess it's cold enough now? And I assume that since you are asking about putting the accumulator on, he must not have put one on. Since it is a done deal for right now, probably best to leave it be, since it's a used compressor anyway. The time to put in the Accumulator and orifice tube is when the system is apart. Now that it is back together and running, you don't want to have to suck the regrigerant back out, take it apart and replace the parts and recharge. It would have been nice to do it when he did the compressor, but let it go for now, what kind of warranty did he give you? Get all you can out of this job and maybe it can get you through the summer. Next time to know a little more of what is involved and maybe can get it all done at one time.
Regarding the machine he was using, that is a nice machine that the shops use, makes working on the ac better and easier. It sucks out the refrigerant, flushes the system, evacuates the system, and charges the refrigerant back in, very nice. I didn't mention it because we were talking about you doing the work yourself, and you certainly are not going to go but one of those machines, and you can't rent one either.
Anyway good luck with the AC, I hope it stays nice and cool all summer for you.
E.D. ISF
BTW - the word is spelled desiccant. (Please don't think I'm being nitpicky - I show it only in case someone is interested in looking it up!)
</aside>
Anyway, thanks for an informative post!
tidester, host
Maybe I can Ebay my old compressor. Although it's getting harder to sell anything on fleebay these days and it seems like good, cheap insurance. I watched the tech put it in and if need be I think I can put the compressor on myself. Anyway, I have cold air for now. I might as well ride this thing out.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE give us some information on any ideas on what may be wrong or, if this has happened to you before, how it was fixed and what the problem was.
thanks
~james
suggestions/assistance would be greatly appreciated.
My 2000 Ford XLT V8 has been doing the same thing for almost a year now, and I opted to squirt WD40 once in a while. Sometimes it squeaks a little, but goes away, and it seems to cause no ptoblem so far, more of a nuisance than anything. I've bought the timing cover seal, in case I need to replace it.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
E.D. ISF
Steve, Host
E.D. ISF
First - "i filled the tank it only took 6 gallons and still pegged at empty". It could be a bad fuel sender, or a leaky float that sank. I had the leaky float happen on one of my Explorers. I keep a spare float on the shelf.
Second - "the fuel filter which was full of black soot like liquid". Where did that come from? Be sure to completely clean the fuel system!
Because of the two above complaints, it would seem to indicate that the fuel tank needs to be removed, the fuel sender, pump and filter need to be checked, the tank needs to be cleaned out, to be sure it is clean. Check all WIRING on the sending unit and SENDING UNIT CIRCUIT, if the sender or float is bad, put on new fuel level sender or float. Before installing the fuel tank, turn on the ignition and slowly manually move the sender float up and down to be sure the fuel gauge moves up and down. You need to determine where the black stuff you found in the fuel filter came from. Was it something in the fuel tank? Or did it come out of the fuel pump because of a problem with the pump? You need to resolve that issue before putting it all back together. Remove the fuel filter and check for any dirt or contamination. If any dirt is found, blow out and clean the fuel lines. The engine dying is most likely coming from this fuel system problem. Whenever the fuel filter is removed, the fuel that spills out should be very clean on the side towards the engine, and only slightly dirty on the side towards the gas tank. There usually is no problem with the fuel system, if you change the fuel filter with a new one every 30,000 miles.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
Good Luck
E.D. ISF
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
Wendell
The tires were purchased and mounted at Wally World, which does not have the type of diagnostic capability that was required for this situation.
I ended up bringing it in for a service appointment at the new car dealership from where it was originally purchased. The diagnosis and solution was that the right-front hub was shot. The part was about $250.00 and the labor about the same for a grand total of about $525.00. Needless to say, it drives perfectly now.
Can't say much about the speed sensor, it could be the sensor itself, or the wiring or the Antilock module, it has to be diagnosed by someone with the knowhow. If it's just the rear sensor, it is easy to replace and should not be much time or money. I'd first check the wiring, just to be sure the wiring didn't get pulled loose or damaged. It is just a matter of unplugging the wire connector, unscrewing the old one, screwing in the new one, plugging the wire connect back together, securing the wire so it doesn't get pulled loose, and testing it to be sure it is working properly.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
Good Luck Fellas,
E.D. ISF
Nice to hear that Im not the only one in the same boat with the transmission problems. I was just back to the Ford Dealership again (8th time) because the transmission slipped out of gear and then back in again. There is nothing they can, or will, do because they cant duplicate the problem. As stated by another writer an Extended warranty should be the obvious when purchasing one of these vehicles. I was lucky enough to purchase a 100K extended warranty when this vehicle was new.
I thought for a while that the easiest thing to do would be is to sell this piece of **** but then I would be saddled with a new vehicle and another new car loan. So, Ive decided to drive this Explorer until the extended warranty runs out and make Ford continue to fix it (the extended warranty is through Ford). By the end of the warranty it should cost them alot of money (two new ring and pinions and one new transmission already). I also live in Arizona which has great Lemon Laws, but since they wont say there is a problem, I cant get the Lemon Laws to work in my favor. There has to be 3 documented repairs for the same problem. Maybe I can get lucky and have the rear end go out again.
Also, I wonder if a class action suit against Ford would make them wake up?? Any thoughts?