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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Member Posts: 56
    I am just double-checking the wires that I replaced on my '98 Explorer (V6 SOHC). Specifically, I am confused about the rear cylinder and the middle one, on the drivers side. Which wire positions from the coil go these 2 cylinders?
  • johel77johel77 Member Posts: 3
    All lights work fine. The click that I get is not that click when the starter is going bad. It's not the starter that's for sure. The theft light blinking is not normal because it starts when I turn the key and not the other way. It has something to do with the security sys. The bad thing is that when I bought the car and I didn't get any owner manuals or the keyless entry code, maybe that'd help or not.

    thanks.
  • elizabethgelizabethg Member Posts: 3
    Now you sound like mechanic! I'm hoping to avoid that route! :sick:
  • kwccorbkwccorb Member Posts: 5
    Thanks E.D. ISF,

    Actually my explorer has almost 180,000. Sounds like I should have the whole front-end reworked.

    I've tried to shoot some oil on the busings and such, but to no avail. I have done everything but listen with a stethescope, but I can't seem to hear exactly where the noise comes from.

    Again, thanks for the info.

    Kwccorb
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Yes, it does sound like it could be the security system, can't help with that one, sounds like you may need to go to the dealer and have it checked. Maybe someone else can chime in on this one.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Sorry....
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    That could be further indication that the ball joints are squeaking. The sound from them can travel through the metal and be hard to tell where it is coming from. I don't think you said, have you ever have the ball joints replaced, and if so, how long ago and how many miles on them now?
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Member Posts: 56
    Why is it all the chasers are this size? I guess that happens when all the Auto parts stores are Pep Boys and Autozone, and I don't trust the 16 yr old working there. Do they come in SAE or will the 14mm work on my Explorer ('98 v6 sohc)?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Ask that 16 year old to bring one of those spark plugs that goes in your engine to the counter, so you can just compare and match up the threads, to be sure you know that the chaser is the right one. If he brings you the right spark plug, you might start to gain a little confidence in him.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • kwccorbkwccorb Member Posts: 5
    E.D., I have never had any work done on the front end. No replacement of anything. Sounds like it is definitely time. I'm wondering if it is worth the $1,200.00 I've been quoted to have it done. Is this a do it yourself project or would I be better to pay the $600 labor?

    Thanks,

    Ron
  • crtitonecrtitone Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Explorer with almost 200K on it. I have had some problems with the manual transmission but it is still running and I need to keep it going for a little while longer. I am having problems with the electric windows. Intermittently the computer rests itself. This has been happening since I got the truck with 50K. The 4WD lights will blink 6 times then do it again in 2 minutes. This used to happen once in a while but now it is most of the time. While it is in this mode, the windows will not work. I assume this is a computer problem. Is there a solution or do I need to replace the computer? If so, which computer and where is it?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    $1,200.00 That's a lot of money, of course, that's a lot of miles too. I do not know if you are mechanical at all, but doing front end work is hard dirty work. I do my own cause I can't spend $1200 on a front end, that's probaby half of what the car is worth. I'm thinking parts are about $300 to $400 at the most. Roughly, Lower ball joints are $30 each, 2 required, upper ball joints with control arms are about $100 each, 2 required, and maybe sway bar links and several bushing and misc parts for about another $100 to $140. You need tools, pickle forks, ball joint separators, BIG HAMMERS, Jacks, Sturdy Stands, Air Tools help a lot, the BAll Joint Press Tool you can get loaned for free at many parts house for about a $100 deposit. When you're done with the Press, you can return it and get your deposit back, or you can let them keep the deposit and you keep the tool if you want. I kept the tool. That job would probably cost you about $400 and a long afternoon of Hard work if you do it yourself, or you can just pay the $1,200, But check around on prices, because I think you can get it done for less than that.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Member Posts: 56
    OK, I just matched them up with my plug. The Chaser idea is close -- but no Cigar!

    I got the spark plug to sit deep in its hole -- but not all the way. Although it is a big improvement. The problem is the part of chaser that you screw-the-thing-down-with is too big and is getting caught on the engine and isn't allowing the thread part to go in deeper.

    Everyone is looking to gauge my eyes out on this repair job, and I can only find one person willing to helicoil it anyway.
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Member Posts: 56
    It's not the chaser. I just went out and bought another smaller one (the nut part of it -- its still a 14mm pitch however). The fact is more torque is needed. I am nervous about just cranking the hell out of it to get it lower.

    Is it a good idea to bring it in? or just crank it? What about driving it like that? I only started it for a couple of minutes and the idle seems smooth.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    The problem is a little deeper than just the threads. Even though the spark plug threads may be almost all the way in the threads in the head and sealing, the body of the spark plug is not seated against the head. This may work for a short time, but the problem is heat transfer, there is a LOT of heat generated at the tip of the spark plug that travels into the body of the spark plug, and the plug needs to be firmly seated against the head for the heat to transfer from the spark plug body to the head. Without this heat transfer, the spark plug will overheat and burn up, possibly doing further damage. The chaser is not meant to be a tap, it is just meant to clean out the threads without a lot of pressure. The threads need to be examined very closely with a light and a magnifier to see what is stopping the chaser. It could possible be that some metal from the first spark plug is broken off and wedged in the threads. You need a 14mm TAP to use to try to rethread the spark plug threads in the head. This is just about a job for a machine shop, unless you are really good and patient. The TAP is made stronger and made more for cutting new threads into the metal. You would need to carefully screw it in with a tap wrench (room could be an issue), and cut into the hard part of the spark plug hole threads a very little at a time , then back the TAP out a little to clean the threads, keep screwing it in and backing it out a little at a time until the tap is all the way through the threads, and hopefully the threads will be fine. Be sure to use a little NEVERSEIZE on the spark plug threads, and do not overtighten the spark plug.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Member Posts: 56
    I took it to a shop. They say I am very lucky and charged me only $44 to use a chaser to get the plug lower, and that their repair should hold up. Although it could be the angle or my imagination -- I checked the job when I got home -- and it looks like a couple threads are still sticking out. I guess it beats the $2000 estimate for removing the cylinder head I got from many others; although those estimates were just over the phone. But then again this guy has a rep for failing everyone for State Inspection -- so if the repair didn't really pass muster, I don't thnk he would be shy about saying so and telling me "take it to an engine shop."

    I think I am hanging up the tools.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Sounds like you came out pretty good, considering it could have been a lot more expensive than $44.
    Hope it holds up ok,
    E.D. ISF
  • cam1994cam1994 Member Posts: 1
    We have got the same problem going on right now. We replaced the Mass Air Flow Sensor, fuel pump, throttle position sensor, air idle control valve and that hasn't helped. We would appreciate any help that you might be able to offer. Our is a 1994 Ford Explorer 4x4. Do you think it could need a new computer? This is the only other thing that we can think of. Is it running rough? Spitting out smoke?
  • matthattan1587matthattan1587 Member Posts: 53
    I am absolutely furious with Ford motor company. I have had a problem with my steering wheel column on my BRAND NEW 2006 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer V6. I brought the car into the dealership to be serviced and they replaced the steering shaft. They verified that there was a clunking noise coming from the steering shaft and did order a new steering shaft to replace it. Well only about a week later the problem has come up again. I think it is ridiculous. The car was purchased on July 3rd so it is under warranty still (I believe 90 days) Can this car be considered a lemon? What will Ford do for me, new Explorer? I wouldnt mind getting my money back and bringing my money to another car company. Any help on this issue will be greatly appreciated as I am furious over the matter.
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Member Posts: 56
    Why are you angry? I assume because your car is new? Maybe the tech made a mistake and misdiagnosed the problem. It would be another thing if they refuse to fix it free. Give them another chance. What options do you have anyway?

    If you were going to buy a BMW or Porshe SUV -- you would have probably bought one instead of Ford. If you are going to buy American again, you will probably face the same reliabilitiy issue at GM or Jeep or Mercedes now that they're in the US. You could have bought a Pilot or Xterra and probably avoided a reliability issue. You will not get to return this car.

    I actually tried that once at a Ford dealer when they sold me a Taurus with bent rotors, that wouldn't drive straight. They refused to fix it after they said they would after the test drive.
  • matthattan1587matthattan1587 Member Posts: 53
    You are correct, I just got caught up because it is a brand new car. I love the car otherwise, it is beautiful, drives nicely. I can t complain, but this pesky steering wheel problem should be on they will be able to fix.
  • alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    sorry about your experience and I can certainly understand your frustration. after all, it's a brand new car. anyway, check with the lemon law in your state. over here in CA, it's 3 attempts to fix the same problem and if it's still not resolved, then it's a :lemon:
    good luck
  • mynewaliasmynewalias Member Posts: 7
    As I recall, they were in the $80.00 per tire range, ordered online from and installed by Wal-Mart. I just returned from a long interstate trip and was very happy with the highway performance.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,258
    make sure you get documentation for each attempt to correct the problem.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Thanks mynewalias,
    I will look further into the Goodyear Raggatta 2's, for $80 sounds good. I paid that much for the Dunlop Radial Rovers I put on my wifes car and they turned out to be junk. The Dunlops one at a time separated and failed, between 20,000 and 30,000 miles. I put some used Goodyear Wranglers on her car for the time being, I plan to buy her a new full set soon, so I will certainly consider the Goodyear Raggatta 2's and the Goodyear Cross Terains.
  • porschajpporschajp Member Posts: 1
    Yes!!!!! I am having the same problem,I notice the noise only when my A/C has been running for a while, if i cut the A/c off it stops.I have a 2005 Ford Explorer Limited V8 with Advanced Trac. Have you found out any thing new about the noise?
  • matthattan1587matthattan1587 Member Posts: 53
    Well I have good news to report. It seems that the steering wheel clunking noise and vibartion has gone away. Maybe this is normal for the car in the first thousand miles? I have not owned a truck like suv before so it might be that I am not completley use to the truck yet. Hope the noise wont come back anymore, love my new explorer!
    -Matt
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Also try Dayton Timberline. I had them on my 1996 Explorer. Much better than OEM Wrangler RT/S. If I remember right, it was about $65 installed per tire. this was 4 years ago.
  • aehallaehall Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 explore Sport, SOHC 4.0, 97,000 Miles. About a month ago I had to have the battery cables replaces due to corrosion, and then the starter. This weekend i was doing some maintenance, and found more corrosion on the cables, I tried to remove it with water and baking soda. Unfortunately,i went to start the car about 5 hours later and it wouldn't start. At first it tried to turn over and then just completely shut down like the battery wasn't putting out juice. I let i rest for a minute then turned the key to start it. The alarm started going off and then quickly died. I also tried to jump it and that didn't work either. I know very little about cars so have no idea what is wrong and don't want to get hosed at the shop. The battery seems to work fine, not sure if it is the starter, a wire went bad again due to the corrosion or i messed it up with the baking soda and water trick, or maybe the alarm needs to be disabled. If you have any idea please let me know what is up! Thanks

    AEHALL
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    That was a good try at giving us information, we just need a little more information to narrow things down a bit.
    First, we need to know if the battery has power, so try a few things and tell us how they do. Turn on your headlights. Do they shine normally? If they do, then the battery has power and the power is getting through some of the wiring. If lights are dim or weak, it indicates a weak battery. Next, Turn on the dome light, and you will use it as a battery voltage guage. Watch the dome light, it should stay about the same brightness when you turn on your headlights, AC, step on the brake, etc. Only a tiny flicker would be acceptable. It should NOT go dim. Now with the dome light on, try to start the car, Does the dome lite dim? How much? If the dome light does NOT dim at all, then there is a resistance or open circuit in the starter circuit, could be in the connections, wires or starter, has to be traced out. If the dome light goes VERY DIM or OUT, AND the battery checked good before, that may mean that the starter has a problem of binding or shorting, causing it to draw to much current from the battery OR there is not enough power in the battery to power the starter, therefore the voltage drops too low. It is normal for the dome light to dim SLIGHTLY when starting the car.
    If you have access to a voltmeter, connect it across the battery posts, and do the above tests. I said connect to the POSTS, NOT the TERMINALS, because there could be some resistance between the battery post and the battery terminal. If the battery is fully charged, it should hold 12.5 to 12.7 volts with no load. As load is applied, the voltage normally drops a small amount. The voltage should not drop below 9.5 volts when cranking the engine. If it does, the battery is weak. If the volts only drops a little, like to maybe about 11 to 12 volts when cranking, and the starter is very slow, then there is resistance in the starter circuit, in the connections, wiring or in the starter itself. A check for voltage drop would have to be made along the circuit.
    If the engine starts, the alternator should charge the battery with about 13.5 to 14.3 volts. With a weak battery, the charging voltage may start with less voltage and then slowly build up to 13.5 to 14.3 volts.
    Let us know what you find. Good Luck.
    E.D. ISF
  • jakesallypeteyjakesallypetey Member Posts: 1
    Yes my 2006 Explorer started stalling as I was driving it on 7/25/06. It was towed to my dealership and I was told it was a sensor to the throttle (SP?). This happened with only 3400 miles on the SUV. Well on 8/1/06 will I was in the fast lane going 65mph the car jerked and the engine just cutoff. Lucky for me I have enough momentum to get to the shoulder. The car then wouldn't start and being on the east coast during the heat wave I was not happy. I call ford roadside assistance told them I was afraid as I was on the highway very close to the entrance of another major highway with trucks all over the place. Well after many calls to them and my husband having to leave work and get me towed ... Ford's towing co called me 2 1/2 hrs after I got stuck asking were I was. I was finally told it was the engine module control. I will be afraid of driving this car. My suggestion to you is look into the lemon laws of your state. I have done this for my state and if they cannot fixed the problem 3x or if the car is in the shop and out of service for 20 days then the Lemon Law will start to kick in. I myself do not want this car anymore. Good Luck...keep me posted
  • scgallowaysscgalloways Member Posts: 5
    My 2005 Ford Explorer has started doing the same thing. The first time I had just dropped my daughter at daycare and it went "ding" on the indicator and I saw the message that it was open so I pulled over. It has now happened several times and the last time it unlocked and had flown up before I could pull over. At first I thought I might be hitting the blue button on the digital remote so I removed it from my keyring, kept having the problem. I rarely use my window on the liftgate so it's not a matter of it not being closed tightly. I was told the same thing that unless they can duplicate it, then I can't do anything about it. I reported mine at www.consumeraffairs.com I also reported that in the morning when it's cold transmission is sluggish, when it switches gears it often throws you back into the seat, my A/C is making a sound like a whistle really hard to describe periodically, it sounds like one of those whistles you blow in and pull the stick out the end as you pull to increase the pitch. First time it sounded like someone hiding in the rear of the vehcile making a sound and scared me to death. I stared searching today for folks having same issue. I am REALLY concerned because we had a Dodge caravan transmission to go out at 60,000 not under warranty, we had to apply that vehicle to get the Explorer and get out of the van so we had to finance 42,000 now this is having issues that don't seem to just be on our vehicle. Very frustrating.
  • scgallowaysscgalloways Member Posts: 5
    thanks for the info. I am concerned because I bought this vehicle when transmission went out on my Dodge Caravan at 60,000 miles and it wasn't covered. I had to pay full sticker for Explorer and finance 6 years so I don't need this again.
  • scgallowaysscgalloways Member Posts: 5
    does it sound like "whaaaaaaaaap" I described mine to the dealership as sounding like a childs whistle where you slide that stick piece in and out to make the pitch go up then back down. According to them, I'm just obviously hearing things and they've NEVER heard this issue before. I am glad I found this board. I'm gonna print out some things and go in Monday with a handful of similar complaints from here and around the internet.
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Member Posts: 56
    I was just about to post about the same issue on my '98 Explorer V6, 109k miles. It sounds like a crackling noise. The guy at work said he heard it when I was leaving the parking lot -- as if that's not embarrassing enough. It's more pronounced with the A/C on.
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Member Posts: 56
    There's more . . . I noticed gas coming out of the exhaust. Just like it did before I took it into the shop to get a spark plug hole rethreaded (just with a chaser -- nothing that major -- at least I thought).

    Before, one of the plugs wouldn't go in all the way, and it was running rich. I don't remember that noise, but I do remember that gas from the exhaust/running rich smell.

    Just now, I stamped down on one of the spark wires that goes to the coil, and it looked like one of them was not on all the way. The gas doesn't come out as much is it did, but it appears it is running rich every 2-3 minutes or so, and then good again.

    The wires are Bosch and they have these dumb little prongs and I can't tell if they are fully seated in the oil or not.
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Member Posts: 56
    Never mind -- at least for now -- the stamping-down-on-the-wires might have done the trick. I guess one wasn't in all the way on the coil.
  • templertempler Member Posts: 7
    I just bought a 2005 Ford Explorer V6 XLT. It has a factory 1 disc AM/FM radio in it. When I called Ford to see what my options where to upgrade to a 6 disc in dash changer with mp3 and satellite compatible, they said that you can't do it. Anybody have any ideas?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Try Sound Advice.
  • templertempler Member Posts: 7
    What is Sound Advice?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Sound Advice was an Audio Systems Store, but I think they are out of existence now. They put a CD changer in my wifes XLT a few years ago. I tried to look them up but could not find anything. sorry.
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Member Posts: 245
    55,000 miles on my 02, looks like its time for tires. i was leaning toawrds another set of goodyear wranglers (given that i got 55,000 out of the 1st set, which i consider pretty good). only definitely blackwalls and not owl. any reccomendations?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    We just had a tire discussion. Read Posts #'s 5160, 5163, 5166, 5268, 5270 & 5273.
  • mtnman1mtnman1 Member Posts: 431
    I just took my 2004 Mountaineer AWD V8 in for routine Maintenance last week. Told them about a whining noise that has developed since about 18,000 miles. It has 23,000 miles on it currently. I was told by the Service Manager that it is a very common issue with the Explorers and Mountaineers to have a whine in the rear axle bearings. This dealership seems to be pretty upfront with me, but I'm wondering if this isn't worse than they are letting on. He told me that as the warranty end date gets closer they will re access the problem and if has worsened they will replace the bearings. He said he gives me his word that he will take care of me. I find the noise to be aggravating especially when I'm driving down my street and you can here that sound echoing as it bounces off the homes in the neighborhood. I have been very satisfied with this vehicle, but I'm getting concerned that this problem will end up costing me a lot of money someday. Please, is anyone else experiencing this issue or does anyone have any advice. Thanks.
    2012 Highlander Limited AWD V6 and 2015 Ford Fusion Hybrid SE
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    Since 2002 the Explorer has had major issues with the rear axle. The switch to the independent rear suspension has not been a smooth one. Many people have had their rear axles replaced only to have the replacement go bad. So I would not accept any delay. I would go back to the dealer and request, nicely at first, that the issue you have be dealt with NOW. You want the rear axle components that are going bad replaced. It is not going to get better, it will get worse. Why should you have to drive around with a vehicle that has defective parts. If you get it repaired now you will at least have 13K miles for the replacement to be "tested".
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    I'm surprised that there has not been much discussion on this board about the curise control recall that Ford has just made for certain Explorers.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Maybe the Ford recall got overlooked in the recent wave of GM/Jeep/Toyota et. al. recalls. Recalls are getting so common, even the big ones like Ford's cruise control one don't seem to dominate the news anymore.

    Here's the story if you missed it:

    Ford Recalls 1.2 Million Trucks, DCX 800K Jeeps (Inside Line)
  • farmgrl32farmgrl32 Member Posts: 1
    The speedodometer just stopped working in my explorer it is not a blown fuse I have checked all of them and everything else works except the speedometer. I was told to go get a speed sensor that it had probally gone bad. So that's what I did, I do not have a owners manual can anyone please tell me where the speed sensor is located? Auto zone said it's on the side of the transmission and my husband and father in law looked all over it tonight and cannot find it can you please help me and I am not even sure if this is what is wrong but that's what everyone is telling me. Thanks so much.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    The cruise control switch problem is old news, I knew about it long ago, and I disconnected the cruise control switch on my 1997 XLT and on my 2000 XLT. My cruise controls work perfect, and I have no danger of fire. I don't know why it has come out in the news just now, when it was common knowlege in the industry a while back. I thought it was very strange when I heard it on the news a day or two ago. I can't remember where or when I first heard of it, but I think it was in the early part of 2006. It was in a discussion on one of the Automotive Forum Boards that I frequent. I'll check to see when and where it was.
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Member Posts: 56
    I noticed it's really bad with the A/C on. But now once in awhile, I'll hear it with the truck idling when I have my foot on the brake (the car in Drive -- compared with the car parked and idling in P). Incidentally, it's a '98 Explorer, V6 Sohc, 110k miles.

    The noise sounds like when a car's engine is turned off after a long drive in Hot weather -- you know the crinkling noise of an engine that's just been run awhile and hot --except it'll do it with the truck running after 5 minutes and at idle.

    There's no running rich smell any more at least, or gas coming out of the exhaust. I guess pushing down hard on the newly installed wires took care of that.
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