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http://www.cnn.com/2005/US/06/16/ford.vehicle.faq/index.html
It says the recall applies to 1995 to 2002 Explorers without IVD.
The problem with the switch is two fold:
First, the switch itself can be faulty, short out, overheat, and cause a brake fluid fire that can spread to the rest of the engine compartment and possibly burn up the vehicle and the building that the vehicle is parked in.
Second, on the recalled vehicles, the wiring to the switch is ON all the time, even with the ignition switch turned off. The switch is always connected to the battery, whether through a fuse or not. This means that the switch may be able to short out and overheat and start a fire even when the vehicle is parked and turned off.
The purpose of this switch is a backup switch to turn off the cruise control when you step on the brake pedal. Normally, when you step on the brake pedal, the cruise control is turned off by the brake light switch, which is physically connected to the brake pedal. If for some reason the brake light switch does not work, or is out of adjustment, the brake fluid pressure in the brake master cylinder activates the Cruise Control Deactivation Switch, mounted on the front and top of the master cylinder, and this switch turns off the cruise control. The problem with the switch is that it can develop an internal leak and allow brake fluid to leak through to the electrical contacts and start a fire.
It is easy to check for the problem yourself, if you are so inclined and have any mechanical/electrical inclination. The Cruise Control Deactivation Switch is mounted on the top front of the master brake cylinder. It is a small device that is screwed in the top of the master brake cylinder and has two electrial contacts that stick up out the top of it. It will have a two wire electrial connector plug plugged onto the top of the switch. With the ignition OFF, unplug the connector off the switch. Connect one lead of a 12 volt test light or and electric meter to a good ground connection on the metal frame of the car, and touch the other lead to one of the wires inside the connector and see if there is prescence of electricity by the test light lighting or the meter indication. If no electricity is on one wire, move the lead to the other wire. If no electricity is on either wire, then you are safe from fire when the car is off. If either wire DID show electricity, then you are NOT SAFE from fire when the car is off.
The next step is up to you, you should take the car to the dealer to have it resolved, or if you are worried about having a fire, you may leave the connector loose and tape it up to keep it safe. This will ensure that you don't have a fire. If you leave the connector loose, you do not have the safety backup if the brake light switch should malfunction. For safetys sake, do not use the cruise control until the dealer repairs the problem. Remove the cruise control fuse until the problem is fixed by the dealer.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
There is also a Starter Relay mounted on the inside of the fender. You will see the Large battery wire go to the relay and another large battery wire go from the relay down to the starter motor. This relay also has a solenoid wire connected to it. For the starter to work, both the relay AND the solenoid need to work properly. Check all connections at the battery (both + and - sides) and at the relay and at the solenoid/starter assembly to be sure they are tight. When done, connect the battery cable back to the battery, and check to see if it works. Is the Battery fully charged and strong? Turn on the headlights, and watch if they dim when trying to start the engine. If weak, charge or replace. If you still just get a click, you need to use a test light or an electric meter to trace the current through the circuit, make sure the voltage gets though the relay when the key is turned, and then make sure that the voltage gets to the upper large solenoid/starter terminal at the starter. Then check to see if voltage gets through to the lower large solenoid/solenoid terminal that carries current to the starter motor. If there is voltage across the starter motor, and the motor does not turn or try to turn, there must be a problem with the starter itself. Let us know what you find.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
There, that's a few things you can do to check to get you started. Let us know what you find.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
Once you answer back, we can get into why your battery is going dead and how to test for parasitic current draw from the battery.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
Has anyone provided any advice on your problem? I have a '98 Explorer Sport that just started doing the same.
Thanks,
IchabodFan
Intermittent problems are the most difficult to diagnose.
"Would not start" needs more explaination.
When the vehicle does not start, which one or the following conditions most fits your situation?
1. The Engine turns normally, the head lights and the dome light do NOT dim too much, the engine does not start.
2. The Engine turns very slowly or barely turns and slows to a stop, the head lights and the dome light dim very much, the engine does not start.
3. The Engine does not turn at all, the starter clicks, the headlights and the dome light dim very much or go off.
4. The Engine does not turn at all, the starter may or may not click, and the head lights and dome light stay at normal brightness (may flicker very slightly when starter clicks).
5. None of the above.
6. All of the above.
7. Other.
While you are in there, it is highly advisable to lube the electric window channels and runners.
I have replaced both the starter and the relay. I was going to replace the ignition switch, but it appears on my 92, I will have to remove the instrument cluster to get to it, and that seems like an awful lot of work...What are the other possibilities?
The battery was replaced just last weekend when the car died the first time. On Friday, after running some errands, I tried to start the car back up and got the dreaded click. No dimming of lights, etc. So I replaced the relay. I was concerned that the new relay has two large posts and two small posts. My original relay had only one small post. After I installed it, still only got a click when I tried to start it. Pulled the starter and battery and had them both tested. Both were fine. So I put the old starter back in and tried to start it and then got a whizzing noise like the starter was spinning but not engaging. So I pulled the starter back out and purchased a new one and installed it. Now instead of spinning, the new one just clicks...
Any ideas? Thanks in advance...
Also, now I'm really doubting my memory/ability. The starter relay has one cable that has two connectors on it for both large posts. The other two large wires look like they can only fit on the leftmost post and the small wire pushes on the small top post. Is that correct?
#1 - A 12 volt test light that has a sharp pointed steel test probe on one end, a light bulb in the plastic handle and and at the other end an insulated wire about 24 inches or longer with a "alligator clip" on the end of the wire.
#2 - An induction Ammeter to measure current in a wire, it is a plastic body and you hold it up against a straight length of wire and it will measure how many AMPS is flowing through a wire.
#3 - Optional but very helpful, a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) You can use to measure voltage and some other things (we will keep it simple for now).
FIRST - Remember SAFETY FIRST - Watch out for and stay clear of moving fans and belts, stay clear of hot objects, sharp objects, etc. 12 volts won't hurt you, but a short on a battery wire can instantly make a very hot arc that can cause burns -Be Careful.
Start with the test light, connect the alligator clip to the negative post of the battery and touch the probe to the positive post of the battery, the test light should light. Next, connect the alligator clip to a good metal ground on the frame or body and touch the probe to the positive battery terminal and it should light. Next touch the probe to one of the large posts on the starter relay and see if it lights. If it does, that means that post is the one connected to the battery and power is present there. If no light on one large post, touch the probe to the other large post and it should light, meaning that IT is the one connected to the battery. So now you have identified the large post on the relay as the "BATTERY POST", mark it as such. The other large post is the "LOAD POST" which carries current to the starter, mark it as such. The Load Post cable carries the current down to the starter. Check all electrical connections to be sure they are clean and tight, on battery posts, ground wire connections, relay connections, etc. Also check to be sure that you have a good ground wire connection from the engine to the frame or body of the car. Now put the Ammeter on the cable that comes from the battery to the starter, or if easier, put it on the cable that goes from the relay to the starter. In either place it will be in the series circuit that carries the current to the starter. You can tape it on the cable, or have a helper hold it there and observe the readings for you. Put the Test Light probe on the starter relay "Load Post". Have a helper try to start the car. See if the Test Light lights and if any current draw is indicated on the ammeter. If the Test Light lights, that means power is getting through the relay to the cable going to the starter. This means everything up top is working, and it is time to check underneath at the starter. Jack up the car safely on sturdy stands on a firm surface. Remember Safety First. Check that all wiring connections at the starter are clean and tight. Also check to be sure that you have a good ground wire connection from the engine to the frame or body of the car. Check the starter connections the same way that you did the relay, by connecting the alligator clip of the Test Light to a good ground on the frame or body and touching the probe to the cable coming from the battery at the post on the starter solenoid, have a helper try to start the car, the Test Light should light, indicating that you have power down to the starter solenoid. Next, touch the probe to the large post that connects the solenoid to the starter motor, and have the helper try to start the car, the light should light indicating you have power to the starter motor, meaning that the starter motor should be operating and the ammeter should be indicating a current draw of 150 to 200 amps. If at any point during this process, you do not find power where you should, that is where the problem is, and investigate at that point. If you DO have power DIRECLY across the starter motor, and it does not turn and does not draw a load on the Ammeter, then that means the motor is bad or open somehow.
Go though all these steps, and if you need more help write back.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
How long have you had that vehicle, and when did you buy it? I don't know what engine you have, I hope it's not a six. Your biggest mistake was buying the 2002, that is the year that they changed to the troublesome full floating rear axle with the aluminum housing and halfshafts. That is why I would never own an Explorer newer than 2001. I bought a 2000 XLT V8 in 2005 and it is a fine vehicle, but it will be my LAST explorer. My wife drives a 1997 XLT V8 and it is also a fine vehicle. I'm going to sell the 1997 in 2008, and it will still be a fine vehicle then, look for it around April 2008. I will sell the 2000 in April 2011, and it will still be a good vehicle then.
Thank GOD and Al Gore we got the Internet in the 1990's, EVERYBODY needs to use it to research ANY car that are anticipating to buy, find out FIRST all that is wrong with it, and what problems people have been having with it BEFORE you buy it. Edmunds is an excellent source. I know it's too late for you now, but hopefully you will do much better when you buy your next car. My next car is probably going to be a Honda or a Toyota.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
I am sure that any competent shop should be able to find and solve the problem. Take the car to a good auto shop and see what they can find.
I am sure the problem could also be found by a home mechanic using the AutoTap Diagnostic tool.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
Judging by the date of your post, you've probably already remedied the problem. I'll go ahead and respond, as I had a similar problem and it may benefit those in the future who experience this problem.
I was plagued with hard starts, rough running, dying when stopping/idling, poor gas mileage etc. - a plethora of fuel related problems. The final straw was a breakdown recently on the free-way with 1/2 tank of gas. Filled it up after limping off the freeway and the gauge still read empty. I suspected the fuel sending unit (integrated with the pump). Upon inspection there were a few things wrong with it. The flex hose which probably sucks up the gas had a crack in it. The black float indicating the fuel level had a chunk missing and was soaking up gas (may explain the black material in your filter). The stem extending into the tank had snapped/cracked from the base and so the pump was just floating around only connected by hoses and electrical wires. A new sending unit/pump got me back on the road.
I have always had a problem with less than 1/4 tank parked downhill - nose down. All the gas runs to the front of vehicle, pump is starved and won't start. The tank was a salvage replacement after driving over a mounted tire retired the first tank. Since it was put in I had a lot of sloshing and banging noise coming from the tank. The insurance's body shop and Ford both denied hearing anything. While the tank was down I noticed a small plastic reservoir that was supposed to be attached in the tank under the pump. It was floating around and making all the racket. In the process it probably snapped the fuel pump from its base. It is not sold separately and couldn't be reattached. Had to buy another salvage tank (new =$1100). Hopefully that solves the parking downhill problem as well.
I acquired the vehicle used but am pretty confident the steering wheel and cover (black) are stock. With the heat of summer, I notice this black material coming out of the cover onto my hands through the seems. It's gets messy driving now. The best way to describe the substance is like black shoe polish. It comes out of the steering wheel cover between 10 and 2 o'clock positions. That portion is not as padded as the rest. Did they use some kind of gel to pad the steering wheels? Anyone else have this happen?
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
In the process they showed me where the code is. My info is for my 99 XLT - hopefully yours is the same.
Go to rear cargo area. Remove cover on drivers side which contains jack handle. Look up and you'll see a control module w/a bunch of wiring harnesses plugged into it. (silver metal module not the black plastic one) Gently pry the plastic wheel well cover away from that module to reveal the label on the side of it. The 5 digit code is there on the label - larger print than the other things printed on the label. You'll need plenty of light - sunlight or a flashlight.
My code did not work so the pad had to be changed. Beyond that I don't know how to fully work the pad. The code entered should unlock the driver door. After the code I press 5 and it unlocks the other doors. Good luck!
At home troubleshooting, I try starting. When i turn the key, it will constantly turn over and sometimes feels like it will momentarily semi start, but it doesnt sustain the power and I ending up turning the key until the battery went dead.
Busting out the shot gun maintenance, Ive replaced the fuel filter and spark plugs but, still the symptoms remain. The gas and oil levels are fine too.
After reading some posts I checked the fuel pump. When the key is turned, I can hear the fuel pump do its whiney priming noise. (thats a good thing right?)
My car has 113k on it and this is the first issue its had.
Anyone have any ideas on which direction I should take? Fuel pump? vaccuum lines? timing belt?
I have a 96 Ford explorer 6 cylinder. I try to start the truck but don't hear even the click of the solenoid or the starter trying to crank the engine. The battery is full and the lights do not dim when I try it. If I leave the keys turned forward, and I cross the two major poles of the solenoid with a screwdriver, the engine will start every time. To me, that mean that the solenoid was not working so I replaced it. Same issue. So, as far as I can figure, the ignition is not sending the signal to the solenoid to allow the juice to flow.
Old time solution was to run a positive from the battery to the solenoid with a switch inside the vehicle because fooling with the ignition was a bit hairy for a candy [non-permissible content removed] like me. Then, you just turned the key and pressed the new starter button to cause the solenoid to engage.
1. Is this the best easiest solution? Is there something else I should check?
2. I can't recall full details of fix. Do I just use the positive battery terminal and the small post on the solenoid to complete the circuit?
Hope someone can help. I've enjoyed the discussions so far about fixes...
P1762
P1747
P0743
P0750
P0755
P0760
P0765
The donor engine is same as original. Is this one central problem or do I have multiple issues?
P1762 refers to a problem with the transmission and P1747 refers to "Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid - Short circuit." I don't know what those mean but I found them at Ford OBD-II Trouble Codes and OBD-II Trouble Codes.
Does anyone else know for sure and have details?
tidester, host
Tim