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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • escambiaguyescambiaguy Member Posts: 35
    Several problems with this vehicle at 76k miles.

    The engine makes a rattling noise right before shifting into 2nd gear. It sounds like clattering valves. Higher octane doesn't help.

    When slowing down to a stop it makes a hard clunk, I can't tell if it's the transmission or the driveshaft.

    The transmission shifts slowly. Sometimes I think it's going to stop shifting all together.

    Now the a/c system is messing up. I think the "flap" is stuck. It won't change from vent to defrost or heat.

    As far as the body, the only problem is the clearcoat peeling off on the black sections around the doors and rear hatch.

    Anyone else with these problems?
  • baolocbaoloc Member Posts: 1
    we just had the same problem [..driver's side door..the wife's 98 explorer]...in our case it seems the rod that comes down from the outside handle was not lifting back up enough to clear the mechanism and was jamming the unlocking lever.
    I opened the yellow plastic tab on the connector at the bottom of the rod, pulled the rod out of the connector, pulled it DOWN a little bit and reset it in the connector and closed the tab.
    Now it is working OK. ......might only be a short term fix, but that is where the problem is. I might try to use a little spring to lift the rod if the problem returns.[Also need a new inside door handle as that was ruined in the struggle]. Oh yes ..take out the bottom left window track..it makes access much easier.
  • gachristiegachristie Member Posts: 3
    For awhile I've noticed that at times when I use the left turn signal it blinks really fast. Today on my way home I rolled down the window halfway and my door ajar light came on. I rolled it back up and down and it kept happening. I left the window alone and the ajar light kept coming on and going off. When I parked and opened the door the overhead light did not come on, but it did when I shut the door.
    Any help would be appreciated. Has anyone experienced this, was it very expensive to fix?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    It must be one of the OTHER door switches that is acting up. CHeck the other doors, including the back hatch window and door. Open and close them all until you find the culprit.
  • gachristiegachristie Member Posts: 3
    Then why would the overhead light and the left blinker act up as well?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    The overhead light could be on because one of the door switches is not closing properly. The Turn signal may not be directly related to the problem with the windows and door and lights. The problem may be simple or it may be complicated. There is a "GEM" module that controls most of the electrical items inside the car. The first thing to do is investigate and check all the switches and wiring external to the control module, and then investigate the control module. You may need an automotive electrical expert or dealer to look at it.
  • gachristiegachristie Member Posts: 3
    Someone at work said that it was a known issue with late 90's Models of Ford Trucks and SUV's. He said he had the same issue and it was something with the sensor in the door. HE said WD-40 Fixed it. We will try that later.
  • bosiphusbosiphus Member Posts: 7
    I got the gaskets from a dealer for a better price than before. I pretty much have everything (great website btw thanks!). The only thing I'm wondering about is the Camshaft timing. Is there a kit I can rent or a way to get all the information I need to do that?

    Thanks again!
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Like I said to another poster,
    You can go to alldatadiy.com/ to get the information for your car, they have everything you need, cam timing and everything else, for $24 for a one year subscription.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • bosiphusbosiphus Member Posts: 7
    Hey E.D.

    I already subscribed to alldatadiy.com and printed everything I need. I put camshaft timing into the search field and am not really turning up any information. Any hints on a better way to find it?

    Thanks!
  • bosiphusbosiphus Member Posts: 7
    Hey E.D.

    I found the information on how to set the timing, the only problem is, I can't find where to get the "special tools" needed to set the timing correctly. Any ideas of where I can rent/buy such tools?

    Thanks!
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I would recommend calling around to local auto parts and tool supply houses. If they don't have them, ask where they may be found or rented. Call some automotive machine shops and Repair Shops asking about buying ot renting tools. There are special tool companies that call on the auto repair shops and sell them tools, like Snap On, MAC and so others, they may be expensive though. If no luck locally, you can always search the internet, Google everything you can, you should be able to come up with something.
  • doug66doug66 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 02' Explorer, v6, loaded with 74K miles and have been having problems with the tranny and sloppy shifts. First it's inconsistant, (hot/cold doesn't matter). I have taken it to the local Ford dealer several times now. First they flushed the tranny and installed a shifting additive. Seemed to help for approx. 5K miles now it's acting up again, worse. It has a slow and sloppy shift in all gears especially into OD. If I turn "OD Off" it seems to help but still will do it on occasion. The dealer, at the last visit, said no error codes came up and nothing to do. Any suggestions?
    I have been a ford guy from age of 16 on but with all the tranny problems I have had with all my fords at the 80K mark I am considering jumping ship. :confuse: It just seems that the ford tranny has always been the weak link.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I have said this over and over again, but here goes one more time. The FORD EXPLORERS with the SOHC V6 have problematic engines and problematic automatic transmissions. The model year 2002 and up have problematic rear axles due to the new full floating design and the aluminum rear axle gearbox housing. If you do your research and homework, you will find this to be true. That is why I own a 1997 Ford Explorer XLT V8 and a 2000 Ford Explorer XLT V8. These are good strong engines, transmissions and rear axles. I learned my lesson by owning 1991 and 1993 Ford Explorers, the V6 OHV engines were reliable, but the automatic transmissions were JUNK! I had to rebuild the transmissions in both of those vehicles more than once. I swore never again to buy anything again without finding out EVERYTHING about it FIRST. The Internet has made this research much easier now. It may be too late for you now, but next time look before you leap, study and research before you buy! Read all the Forums about the car you want to buy. Look for all the weak points, not just the features that you are looking for. Put reliability near the top of your list. You can't enjoy your car if it's broke down or giving you problems.
    Do yourself and your friends a favor, Bookmark this messege and send it to all your friends.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,306
    i would try a different dealer. my '02 gradually shifted worse until i had the tranny flushed at 30k. just had it done at 60k again. not sure why they would put an additive in.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • 0435004350 Member Posts: 26
    My AT transmission just went on my 02 XLT at under
    40 K miles. Rebuilt transmission parts and labor is $4,200 + $ 140 for re-welding bolts. Car was in shop 900 miles ago and vehicle got excellent report as to condition on everything. 3rd gear is gone. Vehicle had normal transmission fluid level now. Also, the standard transmission service was done at 29K miles by dealer.
    Another 02 XLT was in dealers shop with 68K miles, also with
    transmission problems although I don't know specifics.
    What's going on with this, especially at such relatively
    low miles?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Again, you did not mention what ENGINE you have or what TRANSMISSION you have. Unfortunately, you are apparently not familiar with all the serious problems that these vehicles have been having for the last 4 years. Why do you think FORD is cutting back on half of it's workforce and production? I have been talking about this and expecting this for many years now. They can't build this junk, and expect to stay in business. I've been on these Edmunds Forums for over 10 years, I used to go by a different name. Please go to the top of the page to the SEARCH bar, and use it. Look for transmissions, rear axles, engines, etc. You will be totally amazed at all the problems that have been talked about on here. Then go to other forums all over the Internet, and you will find the same thing.
    I've owned 4 Explorers over the last 8 years, and I will CERTAINLY not own another FORD again. My next vehicle is going to be a Honda or Toyota!
    Please bookmark this messege and send it to all your friends.
    E.D. ISF
  • sepbuysepbuy Member Posts: 3
    I have an '03 Explorer XLT V6, 32000 mi. I had a new (for me) problem today. After driving up up and down a mountain pass(10000 - 11000 ft.) at slow speeds thru some mud and a little snow and part of the time in 4high, I returned to the highway and stopped to use a restroom. The car sat about 10 minutes, when I attempted to start it I got nothing. I had power, lights, alarms etc. but it would not crank or anything. I made sure it was in park, undid the gas cap etc, nothing worked. After about 45 minutes sitting waiting for a local mechanic to come, the car started right up (just as the mechanic pulled up). It reminds me of vapor lock in the older cars - the car just has to sit a while. I drove back home (about 80 mi), parked, washed the car and it started ok again. Does anyone have any idea what could cause this? Thank you.
  • 0435004350 Member Posts: 26
    It is the 6 cyl automatic. BTW, in an attempt to soften the
    blow about mine going at under 40K, the service writer
    said they had an Escape with a defective transmission
    come in with under 1K miles recently. I don't know if the
    dealers care since they'll get paid regardless, but major
    repairs like this get billed to Ford when under warranty
    or to Ford ESP if under their extended service plan. Does Ford sub-contract these transmissions when originally
    installed new or are they manufactured by their own plant?
    My opinion is the reason Ford is hurting now is more related to the price of gas and still some residual from the rollover issues of the late 90s.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,306
    i have an '02 and my brother in law has an '03(both with v-8). we have driven them pretty hard over the years. both have had some repairs, covered under warranty, although not always the first time.
    we both agree they are the best overall vehicles we have ever owned. that is meant as a compliment, not that we drove a pos prior to what we have now.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    well, it seams that i have a problem. a while ago i had a serious overheating problem in my 1993 explorer. so, i flushed the radiator, changed the oil(it was mostly sludge),new spark plugs, new filters, new thermosdat(it was completely destrotyed and the obvious cause of the first overhating, the whole nine yards. then today, while up driving in the mountains, it happened again! when i start to go up a hill, the needle buried itself within 30 sec. the water pump is working and there are no leaks in the hoses as they are new. what i dont understand though, is when im driving on a flat surface, the temp rises. please help!!!!
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I can help you with this, but remember, I'm a long way from you, and I have to depend on the information that you provide. I had a 1993 XLT, it was a good vehicle, except for the automatic transmission. How many miles on yours? How is it equipped? First, what JUMPED OUT at me was when you said "changed the oil(it was mostly sludge", that was a shocker. You should never let the oil get like sludge. How often do you change your Engine oil and filter? You should do an oil and filter change every 5,000 miles, or if you use a good Full Synthetic, a little longer. What kind of oil and filter do you use? Do you keep up all maintenance on the vehicle? Do you change the auto trans fluid and fuel filter every 30,000 miles, and change air filter every 15,000 miles or sooner if it gets dirty? Also, the thermostat being completly "destroyed" is very strange. They usually just stick closed or open, but I never heard of one that was "destroyed". As a first step, please be sure that all maintenance is kept up. Next, check for all the obvious things. Is the condenser and radiator clean? Is the fan and fan clutch in good shape? Does it pull plenty of air through the radiator? Is the cooling system clean inside? Is the system tight with no leaks? Are you loosing and coolant at all? Does the radiator and overflow tank stay full? If you are loosing coolant, then there is either an External leak at a gasket, hose or water pump, or an Internal leak at a gasket, usually a head gasket. Look for any oil in the coolant and any coolant in the engine oil. If the coolant level is good, clean, and it is tight with no external or internal leaks, and airflow is good, then we must look at circulation inside the system. You said you flushed it, but with what and how? There may be a restriction or clog in the radiator. If you can safetly feel the front of the radiator, feel for any differences in temperature while the engine is running. Cooler spots indicate a clogged radiator. Make sure the water pump is operating properly. Make sure the thermostat is not stuck closed. Buy a good one, not a cheap one. A good thermostat is good insurance. Also check the hoses, to be sure that they don't collapse, the lower hose can collapse when you give it the gas, if the internal spring inside has rusted out. Also check to see what temperature the cooling system operates at under different conditions. How accurate is your dash temperature guage? You can check the actual temp of the radiator and hoses with one of those infrared thermometers.
    Check all this out and let us know what you find.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    My opinion is the reason Ford is hurting now is more related to FALLING SALES.
    I doesn't really matter to the owner who pays for the warrenty repairs, but they are still out of the use of their vehicles and they have all the aggravation to go through.
    And what about a guy like me who buys a used vehicle 6 years old out of warrenty and plans to drive it for 6 years? He has to buy a reliable vehicle that won't break down and cost him money.
    Meanwhile, the Honda and Toyota drivers are driving merrily down the road with big smiles on there faces.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You should have it checked for a blown head gasket, as you have all the symptoms.
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    it has approx 196,000 miles on it and i have not had a single problem with the transmission. welll, uh what i meant by the sluge thing was that, since it overheated 5 times in a day, it turned everything to slugde. the last time i changed the oil was only 2 thousand miles ago, with fully sinthetic high mileage oil. and there are absolutely no leaks anywhere, and everytthing remains full. i was also thinking somewhere along the lines of a clogged radiator, but when i flushed it everything was fine and has not leaked. and the thermosdat was nota pretty sight and i most likely over exxadurated when i said it was destroyed. the oil filter was disgustin and black, and the air filter was also black. i fouind this weird because i had fuly serviced it only a few thousand miles ago. and, i do not go cheap on the parts or oil i use for this car, as i want it to last a while longer
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    a blown head gasket?! it runs perfectly fine except when i start up a pretty steep hill, such as driving up in the mountains
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    "it has approx 196,000 miles on it and i have not had a single problem with the transmission. welll, uh what i meant by the sluge thing was that, since it overheated 5 times in a day, it turned everything to slugde. the last time i changed the oil was only 2 thousand miles ago, with fully sinthetic high mileage oil. and there are absolutely no leaks anywhere, and everytthing remains full. i was also thinking somewhere along the lines of a clogged radiator, but when i flushed it everything was fine and has not leaked. and the thermosdat was nota pretty sight and i most likely over exxadurated when i said it was destroyed. the oil filter was disgustin and black, and the air filter was also black. i fouind this weird because i had fuly serviced it only a few thousand miles ago. and, i do not go cheap on the parts or oil i use for this car, as i want it to last a while longer"

    Is your transmission an Automatic? You are very lucky to have 196,000 miles on it with no transmission problem, especially if it is an automatic. It is amazing to have sludge in an engine in 2,000 miles AND overheat 5 times and one day! That's pretty tough on an engine! How hot did it get each time, did it boil over? Overheating will destroy and engine quicker than anything. The post #5417 that I left for you on Sept 30 has all the information that you need. You need check and follow though on each item, it is like a flow chart, a logical process to arrive at the solution to the problem. Don't skip a step or leave anything out, make sure you cover all the bases. As I said, if you are not loosing any coolant and the system is tight and not leaking internally or externally, then the next logical step it to check the circulation of the coolant. The biggest factor there could be a clogged radiator, but you must be sure that the thermostat is opening and that the bottom hose is not collapsing when you accellerate up a hill. When engine is cold, start it up and feel the upper hose about once a minute to see when the upper hose gets hot, meaning the thermostat in opened. If you have doubts about the thermostat opening, or only partially opening, remove it and put it in a pan of cold water, set it on the stove, put thermometer in the water, and heat it up, and watch to see what temperature the thermostat opens wide open. I always test a thermostat before I put it in to be sure it works correctly. If you have doubts about the radiator, a radiator shop can flow test it for you or if you got one of those laser thermometers like I said in my previous post, you can measure the temperature of the radiator tanks and the temperature of the upper and lower hoses. The lower hose carries the coolant back to the engine and should be at least 10 degrees cooler than the upper hose. 20 degrees cooler would be better. But if there is very little difference in temperature between the upper and lower hose, that means the radiator is not transfering heat, and that is where the problem would be in that case. Either get the radiator rodded out, or replace it. Then put in a good 50%/50% mixture of antifeeze and distilled water.
    Squeeze the bottom hose hard, it should not flatten, it should be stiff or have a spring inside of it to keep it from collapsing. If the hose is not hard, replace it.

    And what was this you said "the oil filter was disgustin and black, and the air filter was also black. i fouind this weird because i had fuly serviced it only a few thousand miles ago", Very strange indeed. I drive mixed city and highway and I change my fully synthetic motor oil and filter every 7,500 miles and it hardly gets dirty, and I change the air filter every other oil change (15,000 miles) and it hardly gets dirty at all.
    I don't know where you are driving, but it sounds like severe service, and you will need to do your services more often.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It can run fine with a blown head gasket...the defect in the gasket can be very small and can be a crack or tear between an exhaust valve and a water jacket. It does not have to admit water to the oil necessarily.

    Anyway, it's best to eliminate this cause right off the bat with a cooling system pressure test.

    Otherwise, rapid overheating on a steep grade is generally a water circulation issue, meaning a bad radiator. Flushing is useless if the radiator is really plugged or rotted out.
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    yes, its an automatic. when it first started overhaeating, it would take about a min or so for the needle to go from cool to buried hot,and took about an hour to cool down enough, AND i had a nice bump in the underside of the hod where the radiator cap blew off, lol it popped back down i suspect this is why there was slugle. and i constantly drive in the mountain gravel roads, where theres alot of dust. i am up there more than i am in the city, and i am really quite pleased with this vehicle...so i dont blame her for geting tired. since i did not have the time to do anything on it myself, i sent it to a friend of mine's shop and he said everything was in perfect order. but, i didnt have him check the radiator. a clogged one you say? earlier today the temp started to rise again, but only to about half way and did not raise any further so it sounds logical, ill have it checked out a.s.a.p. thank you very much for your insight

    ~Tom
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    uhhhuhhh. i think it is the radiator and i really dont blame it for being tired. i drive it realy hard and if it breaks i'll fix it
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    My 99 XLT's Check Engine Light went on just after I filled up after driving with less than 1/4 of a tank of fuel. This is the first time in a long time that I have allowed the fuel level to drop that low before refueling. I noticed a drop in performance just before I refueled. Oddly enough after refueling engine performance seemed to go back to normal, but the Check Engine Light. When I got home I plugged in my engine scanner and it returned error codes 1131, 1151, 136, 156, 171, 174. From what I read, all these codes seem to be pointing to oxygen sensors and lean fuel mixtures. I've cleared the codes and will monitor the situation to see if the Check Engine Light comes on again.
    Is the replacement of an oxygen sensor a "big deal"? I know that playing with exhaust system components could lead to problems with frozen bolts, etc., but will oxygen sensors come off easily if I spray some WD40 and warm up the exhaust pipes for a minute or two? I'm looking for input to decide if I should do this myself or take the truck in to a repair shop. Also, could a dirty fuel line caused by running the fuel level down to below a 1/4 of a tank have caused this problem to develop?

    Thanks in advance for the reply!!
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    First, you need to know which O2 sensor it is, left bank or right, front or rear. You need to know how they work and how to read them. The scanner should show you the voltage fluctuations on each O2 sensor, so you can tell if it is reading in the right range or reacting too slowly.
    Go to this link to learn all about the O2 sensors and how they work and how to read them:

    http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0- 4/f6/02/0900823d8004f602.jsp

    Replacing them is easy, use regular tools, just use common sense, tools must fit properly and some are harder to reach. Go to this link to find out all about replacing them:

    http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0- 4/f5/f7/0900823d8004f5f7.jsp

    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    Thanks for the reply E.D.!! The sun must be shinning on me and I am not in Florida! I drove the truck today and as expected the Check Engine Light returned. This time only the P0171 error code was present. When I returned home and hooked up my scanner There were no codes stored in the "Stored Codes" folder. The P0171 code was in the pending folder. After running two scans I deleted all codes from the truck's ECU and the error code has not reappeared. I've driven the truck about 18 miles since the last scan and all is normal. I plugged in the scanner an all of the readings seem to be normal. Guess I dodged a bullet, for now?? I'm beginning to think that it was dirt in the bottom of the gas tank. But time will tell. Just for the heck of it I put a bottle of Pro Guard injector cleaner in the tank. I've owned three Toyotas and four Hondas. All I had to do was regular maintenance. After returning to GMC & Ford my mechanic skills have again been tested regularly.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I put the fuel tank additive STP or Store Brand) in the gas tank at every oil change, as part of the regular service. I think it helps in the long run, as I have never had to replace an O2 Sensor in any of my Explorers, a 91 V6 Ford Explorer, and a 93 V6 Ford Explorer each over 150,000 miles, and a 97 V8 Ford Explorer with 150,000 miles and a 2000 V8 Ford Explorer with 128,000 miles.
    Keep your fingers crossed, I hope the codes don't come back.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • safetyfirst5safetyfirst5 Member Posts: 1
    The security approach lamps don't activate on our 06 Explorer limited when we open the doors or unlock with the key fob. Does anyone know how to turn these on? Thanks! :)
  • m_herekm_herek Member Posts: 1
    :sick: i have a 1992 ford explorer and it goes into reverse but doesnt seem to want to go into drive. ever once in a while it will go into drive but its rare. i have changed the filter and replaced the transmission fluid but still hasnt changes. what can i do to fix it or will i need a new transmission?!?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    You have an A4LD Automatic Transmission, and it sounds like it is time for another one. These trannys are troublesome and very touchy to rebuild. I would suggest that you get a remanufactured transmission from a reputable firm, such as Jasper. They are not the cheapest, but they are one of the best and have a 3 year warrenty. They will ship the transmission to the shop of your choice for the install, or they can help you find an installer in your area. Here's the link to Jasper Engine and Transmission Remanufacturing:

    http://www.jasperengines.com/

    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF (Electric Designer In Sunny Florida)
  • drh5drh5 Member Posts: 2
    I have 2001 ford explorer sport 2wd.when you crank it up and let it idle for a little bit. it will stall and start right back up.it's been doing it for a week and does quite often.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Which engine do you have? How many miles? Is all maintenance kept up?
  • kenai123kenai123 Member Posts: 1
    Yes, had that problem myself in a 1991 Ford Explorer.
    It ended up being caused by the rear wiper blade itself
    being spliced into the incorrect position on the
    pivoting wiper post. It was only off by a faction
    of an inch. It appears that the rear wiper is very
    sensitive to placement and if off by a little something
    senses the incorrect position and forces the wiper to
    continue operation. If the wiper is in the incorrect
    position on the post it will eventually stop after about
    a couple hundred wipes. Correct post positioning is
    found by turning the switch off and allowing the wiper to
    stop on its own and set on the resting pad provided.
    Once the wiper stops pull the wiper off the post and
    reposition it about a half inch from the wiper resting pad.
    The wiper should operate correctly if you did this right.
    If it does not attempt to reposition again with the wiper
    blade slightly off the wiper resting pad until the blade operates correctly with the switch positions.
  • drh5drh5 Member Posts: 2
    6 cyclinder
    it has 114,000 miles and the maintenance is up to date
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Several things could cause this stalling. Do you get a check engine light? SInce you did not mention it, I would assume for now that you don't. Number 1 suspect is vacuum leaks. Check the IAC valve, they leak and go bad occasionally. It is a small cylinder shaped electric contolled vacuumm valve, fastened to the throttle body/Intake manifold with two small bolts and has 2 wires going to it. This valve controls the amount of air that the engine receives at idle. Sometimes they get dirty and leak. You can remove it and clean the vacuum valve part with throttle body cleaner. Don't put solvent on the electric coil part. Or you can simply replace the part. Next, check for vaccum leaks everywhere else. Other things to check are the MAF sensor and check the plastic tube between the MAF and Throttle Body for any air leaks or cracks.
    Next check and test the EGR System, refer to the repair manual for this. Remove the EGR Valve and clean out the vacuum passages.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • crasht62crasht62 Member Posts: 1
    Battery is good. All lights, wipers, radio work fine. When I turn the key nothing happens. I can cross the selenoid and the starter cranks fine but motor still won't start with key in the on position. Mileage and trip display read -------- with key in on position???? Any ideas?
  • sepbuysepbuy Member Posts: 3
    I had the same problem with my 03. See post #5413. The car started after about 1 hour. One techinician suggested radio interference with the anti-theft chip in the key. In fact I had just parked near a railroad crossing as a train was approaching. Possibly thee train to signal crossing interferred with the radio controlled chip. Has your vehicle since started? Were you near any radio interference?
  • guestguest Member Posts: 770
    I bought a 2002 blue Ford Explorer XLT in March 06 from Joe Ball GMC in Pittsburgh Pa it only had 50,000 miles on it and the engine went bad for no reason. The repair man said it will cost 6,000 dollars to replace the engine. I think the dealership sold me a bad car knowing something was wrong with the truck. They said it only had one owner. They lied to me about getting a extended warranty. They told me I could come back and purchase the warranty before my 3,000 mile waranty was up and I did then they said I could no get the warranty. In June I had my brakes checked the repair man their said they could not find anything wrong with the truck and 3 months later the engine went bad. The day the engine went bad I lost my brakes again the repairman that checked my car said I lost my brakes because my engine was going bad. Joe Ball never check the engine in June. If they did they woulld have knew something was wrong with the engine. In June I was up under their waranty, my truck would have been covered. If you are reading this message do not buy a vehicle from them I think they sale bad cars. If you were the previous owner please reply. If you had a bad experience with them please reply. If you know if I can get some legal help please reply.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Why is this post anyonmous? Some better english and punctuation would help us to understand your post better. You never stated what engine is in your Ford Explorer. That makes a LOT of difference. The V6 SOHC engine is the most troublesome engine, which is what I would guess was in your vehicle. The V8 engines are much more reliable. How many miles were on it when your purchased it, and how many miles were on it and how much time had elapsed when the "engine went bad"? What was the nature of the "engine went bad"? What was the nature of the "loosing brakes"? How are "loosing brakes" and the "engine going bad" related? And besides, What does a GMC Dealer know about Fords anyway?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    We have the occasional glitch with posters who use AOL for their ISP and their name disappears in the post title - I suspect that's the case here. The IT folks have been working on swatting the bug but it tends to be intermittent, and hard to pin down, like those occasional grounding issues. ;)
  • mario_mobilemario_mobile Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 Ford Explorer,4.0 V6 Engine, 5 speed AT, 3 months old. It has 2000 miles. I went to the sandy desert under high temperature (105°F)and experienced the following problems:

    1- Airplane like noise, when demanding additional power from the engine, under medium to high engine load. It seems to be initiated by the throttle, and disappears when the load goes down.

    2- Engine lacks of power when the airplane like noise appears... It happened also to my wife when driving uphill in normal city driving conditions, but I did not believe her.

    3- When in flat sand, the car will not move in 4WD High... engine revs up to about 3500RPM, none of the wheels spin, feels like if the car is on "neutral", except that the engine won't rev higher than this. The only way of getting the car to move is by engaging 4WD low and... have some friends pushing!!! until reaching a downhill slope, then I can stop, switch to 4WD high and continue driving normally without being able to stop on flat ground without getting stuck by this lack of traction.

    I went to the dealer... they checked "everything on the computer" and checked the "levels and pressures" in the transmission, and concluded that everything is perfectly normal with my car.

    Can I have some suggestions on what the problems might be? I believe the mechanics available around here (Sultanate of Oman) require some guidance.

    Other question: can I drive for long periods of time in 4WD low?
    Thanks
    Mario :confuse: :confuse: :confuse:
  • cntrybyinmtcntrybyinmt Member Posts: 1
    Recently I had to change my fuel filter and ever since my mileage has went from 19 miles to a gallon on the highway to 8 miles to the gallon. Can anyone help me?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Mario, Your vehicle is way too new to be posting here. There is a Ford Explorer 2006 Forum you can post in. Being that your vehicle is so new and under warrenty, it is a DEALER issue. If you are not satisfied with your Dealers service, go to another Dealer or call FORD directly.
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