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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Mazda
  • jd1759jd1759 Member Posts: 5
    YOUR IN FOR BIGTIME PROBLEMS. I JUST WENT THROUGH THIS ORDEAL WITH FORD, WHICH INCIDENTALLY IS WHY I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER FORD AND HOPEFULLY GET A CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT UP AND RUNNING.
    MY OVERDRIVE OFF LIGHT STARTED FLASHING AND SOMETIMES STAYING ON FOR A WHILE AT ABOUT 70K. I REGRETTABLY OWN A 2002 XLT 2WD EXPLORER. MY EXTENDED WARRANTY PURCHASED FROM FORD WAS GOOD UNTIL 75K. I BROUGHT THE CAR TO THE DEALER WITH THIS PROBLEM AT ABOUT 73-74K, STILL UNDER WARRANTY. THE DEALER, NORTHPORT FORD, GAVE THE CAR BACK SAYING THEIR WAS NO PROBLEM AND THEY UPDATED THE CODES. THE CAR STILL HAD THE PROBLEM AND THEN WE NOTICED SOME SPURRATIC SHIFTING PROBLEMS. AT ABOUT 77K I BROUGHT THE CAR BACK TO THE SAME DEALER FOR THE SAME PROBLEM. THEY TOLD ME I NEEDED A SOLENOID PACK AND IT WOULD COST $700 WITH A DISCOUNT FOR MY FIRST VISIT FOR WHICH I PAID $200+ FOR DIAGNOSIS AND A TRANNY SERVICE(WHICH I MAINTAINED REGULARLY AT THE DEALER). I MADE ONE PHONE CALL TO ANOTHER NEARBY FORD DEALER WHOM WOULD DO THE JOB FOR $550 AND TOLD THEM TO DO THE JOB AND DONT DIAGNOSE SINCE ANOTHER FORD DEALER ALREADY DID. ONE SOLENOID PACK LATER AND $750+ IN , SAME PROBLEM. NOW SHIFTING GETTING WORSE. GO BACK TO SECOND DEALER WHOM NOW DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM AS A BAD SERVO, IN SHORT NEEDS ANOTHER TRANNY.ANOTHER $125 IN DIAGNOSTIC FEES. COST FOR TRANNY FROM FORD $3000+ BUT THEY WOULD GRACIOUSLY GIVE ME A $300 CREDIT FOR MY $900+ IN WOES. I STARTED CALLING LOCAL TRANNY SHOPS AND FOUND THAT MY PROBLEM IS ANYTHING BUT UNIQUE. APPARENTLY FORD SELLS MANY SOLENOID PACKS DUE TO A SENSOR PICKING UP THE PRESSURE DROP WITHIN THE TRANNY, AND MANY SHOPS BELIEVE FORD IS OR SHOULD BE AWARE OF THIS. I PAID ANOTHER $2500 FOR A TRANNY. THIS AFTER THE PROBLEM OF THE OD OFF LIGHT BEING MIS DIAGNOSED WHILE UNDER WARRANTY AND FORD WILL NOT STAND BEHIND THEIR PRODUCT EXCEPT TO OFFER THE DIAGNOSTIC FEE BACK IN THE FORM OF A CREDIT TOWARDS AN OVERPRICED TRANNY!!! MY FRIEND, YOU ARE IN FOR A COSTLY REPAIR. I HOPE YOU CAN SELL YOUR FORD OR DONATE IT FOR A CHARITABLE DEDUCTION. I WILL POST MORE SINCE I MAY HAVE A LAW FIRM INTERESTED IN PURSUING A CLASS ACTION ON THIS APPARENTLY SYSTEMIC FORD TRANSMISSION PROBLEM.
  • jd1759jd1759 Member Posts: 5
    WELCOME TO THE DISAPPOINTMENT CLUB. HOW MANY MILES DID YOU HAVE ON YOUR EXPLORER AND HOW OFTEN DID YOU PERFORM RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    People tend to ignore posts in all caps since they are difficult to read.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    People tend to ignore posts in all caps since they are difficult to read.

    Yes, that and you know the person is mad as hell...
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Yes, that and you know the person is mad as hell...

    So why tick off the people from whom you're seeking help? :)

    tidester, host
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Exactly. When I see 6 inches of caps, I know someone needs to take a pill or something, and I don't want to hear how they're going to sue. I can't help them with that, so I just move on.... Reasonable posters don't scream...
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Well, it is helpful to vent now and then, but there are also some people who grew up on Teletype machines and have trouble getting used to lower case.

    Absent a reposting, any help for the problem, anyone?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    He's right on the facts, however, people get so cranky when their transmission fails at 75,000 miles - granted, it'd be nice if it didn't, but these transmissions are engineered to go about 100,000 miles - if you pamper and baby it, you may get more, if you work it hard or abuse, you'll get less, and some of them will fail early from no fault of the owner. They're machines, they break, and it's a wonder they work at all actually. Toyota has a horrible new transaxle in their 07 Camry - it fails at 1000 miles often. That is not good. But if a 5 year old transmission craps out, I hardly think a class action suit is appropriate, or will gain any traction. :confuse:
  • jd1759jd1759 Member Posts: 5
    Is this better?? Dont get me wrong, I agree that it is weak at best to think a tranny failing at about 75k is grounds for a lawsuit. What I am shocked and surprised about is that Ford mis diagnosed this (while under warranty) and according to the professional tranny shops I have talked to, they know or should know. The od off light is rarely the solenoid pack and I am finding that many people are paying for this diagnosis/repair unnecessarily. That is what I believe Ford is liable for. Sorry to all about the caps lock. It wasn't screaming, it was lazy.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Remember - it's not Ford, it's the crappy dealer, that's Ford's customer. Affiliated, to be sure, supervised very very loosely by the factory. Mis-diagnoses fall on the Service Manager. Design flaws, and early under warranty failures should fall on Ford.
  • mschmalmschmal Member Posts: 1,757
    Your 2002 Ford Explorer required its Automatic transmission fluid to be changed every 30,000 miles.

    Was this done?

    Mark.
  • jd1759jd1759 Member Posts: 5
    Again I agree, but this issue went up to the regional Ford Customer Service rep. and he too felt the path the dealer took and charges associated were reasonable and the $300 off a new tranny was a more than fair offer. Also, Ford is responsible to keep their dealers informed of "design flaws" like the od off light flashing and the obd11 codes recommending replacing the solenoid pack.
  • jd1759jd1759 Member Posts: 5
    Yes Mark, at the dealer.
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    Quote "So why tick off the people from whom you're seeking help?"...

    Tide: sometimes I think ya shoulda been a psychotherapist, or at least, a bartender...:):):):):)
  • southerpunkkcsoutherpunkkc Member Posts: 3
    i have a 96 explorer with 83000 mile and my transmission is starting to slipp(only when it is cold). if i am sitting at a stop and try to exclerate quickly my transmission slips. i can put my gas petal all the way to the floor, my engine will rev up but i go no where. i have never worked on automatic transmissions and no nithing about whats wrong. i had a diagnostic test done on it and they told me they did not pick anything up. i am thnking about changing it out myself with a rebuilt one. but if anyone has suggsetion please let me know. thatnk you
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    You had a diagnostic done on it and they found nothing wrong with being able to floor the car when cold and going nowhere? Try another shop.
  • jag1010jag1010 Member Posts: 1
    My 4x4 quit working. It has 4x4 auto low & hi. Is there anybody that could tell me what the problem is.
  • blimercblimerc Member Posts: 1
    Bought it used a year ago. Stereo has AM-FM, Cassette w/ remote CD changer. A couple of months ago I noticed that the lights for the display on the radio are no longer working. The display is fine but in order to do anything with the rest of the system I have to turn on the overhead lights.
    The dealer says there is a "circuit board" w/the lights on it & refers me to a local Electronics place. They say there are no lights anywhere in the radio and that it never lit up. I know it has worked in the past but can find no lights to replace.
    Anybody got any ideas?
    Thanks
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Little more info, please. Year, engine, miles. It could be generally a lot of things - it's most likely your shift motor.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    The dealer is correct - they do light, and the circuit board with the lights on it is what you need. I'm surprised you can't still get them. Two things - you may want to find out who made your stereo, hopefully Clarion, and not Visteon, and get one, or find another unit like yours to replace your whole head unit. They have to be at junkyards and all over stereo shops as take outs...There were a zillion of them made.
  • mich1amich1a Member Posts: 1
    i recently had an alt go bad, replaced it with one from auto zone. plus i got a gator grip belt to go with it. this was 7 months ago but ever since the change my temp gauge barely comes up past cold and if i run the fan on high in AC or heat/defrost when i slow down to wait for a turn my alt gauge drops for a bit then comes back up to normal and it doesnt do it all the time! what in the heck is wrong can anyone take a guess im clueless.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Sounds like your belt tensioner either didn't set right when you put the belt back on, or is broken and your belt is slipping quite a bit. It could cause both problems....
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    or you put on a wrong belt which is too long, allowing slippage because the tensioner can't keep it tight enough.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    i have a 1993 explorer with 196000 miles on it, and recently, every time i turn the heater to the second highest or highest fan setting, the battery meter drops significantly, also the lights in the dash dim too.
    has anyone else had this problem?
    any ideas?
    ~tom
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    i had a problem like this in my 1993 ford explorer!
    what it turned out to be was a bearing in the axle and became worn and made a loud noise, and i too couldnt tell between noises.
    hope this helps
    ~tom
  • asps400asps400 Member Posts: 5
    My nephew gave me his 1996 Explorer with a V6 and said the dealer told him the heads were leaking (possibly cracked). I can’t get it to turn over (engine sounds frozen). I found someone with a wrecked 1997 Explorer with a V6. Can I put the 1997 V6 in my 1996?
  • asps400asps400 Member Posts: 5
    Put a can of gas dryer in it anyway. This will cause any water in the gas to be suspended in the gas and burned out.
  • asps400asps400 Member Posts: 5
    1. Replace Gas and Air filters. 2. Put a can of injector cleaner in one tank of gas. 3. Put a can of 'Gas dryer' in the next tank of gas. 4. Change Gas stations for a while. Station could have water and gunk in their tanks.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    I believe you can, with very few modifications needed....
  • harley0987harley0987 Member Posts: 1
    Try the computer module located behind your glove box. I had same issue.. Worked then didn't. Ford dealter said would cost $500 to fix. I ordered a 4x4 computer module online. Cost $152... Easy fix.. 2 screws, 2 wire harnesses and problem fixed. Online parts dealer said original part would go bad after a battery failure (I had battery disconnect due to another problem). The new part is an updated part.. Works great....
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    You will need to change the computer too, keep the 1997 computer with the 1997 engine. The computers are programed specifically for each year engine. Carefully check all computer and electrial cables and connections to be sure everything will match up.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • asps400asps400 Member Posts: 5
    It appears that the 96 is an OHC and the 97 came with an SOHC and I can see the difference there since one is 160hp and the other is 205hp. But it looks like the 97 also came with the 160hp OHC. Could I still use the 96 computer with the 97 engine if it is the 160hp OHC? Sorry to get so technical but funds are short and I think the guy I am buying the eng from already sold the computer.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    In your original messege you said the 96 had a V6 and the 97 had a V6, BUT you did not say that they where different engines. Forget about swapping the 96 V6 OHV with the 97 V6 SOHC engines, the electrical wiring is all different, the computers are different, the transmissions are different, the mounts are different, the radiator/fan is different, the exhaust system is different, and the driveshaft is different. I only suggested that the swap may be feasible if both engines were the same, but now knowing that the engines are different, I'd say to scrap the whole idea. The only way to replace the engine in the 96 with the V6 4.0L OHV, is to replace it with the SAME ENGINE. I would make this same suggestion for any vehicle. The only exception to this would be a custom made vehicle, done by someone with the knowledge, skill and tools to do it, and it would be expensive and time comsuming, not what I think that you are looking for.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • asps400asps400 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks, the voice of reason. Although the OHC was also available in 97 it would not be a good idea to even attempt it if the 97 I am considering has the OHC engine, which I doubt. Thanks for the kick in the A........
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Just a clairification on these engines, as you reffered to the 96 engine as the OHC engine and the 97 engine as the SOHC engine. Both engines are 4.0L V6 engines, the early engine, the 4.0L V6 OHV (Over Head Valve) 160hp, has the camshaft in the engine block, down in the vally of the Vee, like the old V engines were designed, for a total of one camshaft in the engine.
    The newer 4.0L V6 SOHC (Single Over Head Cam) 205hp, has a single camshaft in each head, for a total of two camshafts in the engine.
    E.D. ISF
  • chandykchandyk Member Posts: 17
    1999 SOHC, V6, 72,000 miles. Maintenance up to date.

    I had a thermostat replaced Nov 11 and 1 month later it was replaced again. Now 3 weeks after the 2nd thermostat, it starting to fail again.

    I start the Explorer, and let the temp gauge go to its usual position (I do not have the heat on). It hits the normal spot (right on the temp gauge icon), and then it starts going down. If I turn on the heat, the gauge "floats". Exact same thing as the previous 2 times.

    I'm starting to worry this is just not a case of a bad thermostat but something worse. Any advice would be great.

    Thanks.

    PS. I've recently had O2 and IAC valve replaced for a stalling/no start issue. Not sure if that helps or not.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    The other thing that would cause this phenomenon to happen, and after 3 thermostats, I'm betting it's not that, would be low water flow. This can be due to inadequate pumping from a loose belt, or bad water pump, to a restriction somewhere in the cooling system. This engine is kind of famous for this 'running cold' syndrome. Low water levelor an air bubble restriction somewhere is likely your problem. When the Thermostat was replaced, did the mechanic bleed the cooling system for air? There used to be a bolt in the intake manifold that would let out the air high in the engine that needed to be bled when the system was flushed or evacuated. If not, the guage and flow is affected....
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    does anyone know how to fix a broken handle in the rear hatch on a 1993 ford explorer?
    yesterday it was frozen so i really reaped on it an broke it. not off, jsut not its very loose and wont turn back to the normal position, or open anything.
    is there a way to get into the back door to fix it?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Take off the inside interior panel. There are some holes in the door you can get to it from.
  • sissiesissie Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 ford explorer It doesn't want to go in reverse. It feels like my brakes may be locked. I have to smoke my tires to back up. Help.....
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Does it roll forward normally? Be sure the parking brake is released. Be sure the parking brake cables are not binding or jammed. The parking brake shoes may be jammed or stuck. You may have to pull off the rear brake rotor/drums and inspect the brakes. The rear brake disc has a small drum built into it for the smaller emergency brake shoes. I had to replace my emergency brake shoes and rear rotors on my 97 Explorer because the brake linings came unglued from the emergency brake shoes.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    how do i do that when the back door doesnt open and its one big peice of plastic?
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    is it normal for a 1993 ford explorer to warp brand new rodors at only 5000 miles, and shred brake pads? the brake pads were cracked in the middle with a 1cm gap, and on one of the pads, half of the pad itself fell off. when i brake, the thing shimmeys and shudders. is there something wrong with my calipers or something?
    and i have to say, the pads and rodors were the most expensive, proven, and tested ones i could find...so i dont think its the materials...
    ~tom
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    It could be your calipers are shot. What happens (particularly if brake fluid is not regularly changed), is that small particles and/or moisture-rust can get behind the piston. Since the piston is constantly moving outward as the brake pad is wearing down, those particles don't cause a problem......until brake pads are replaced.

    When one changes the brake pads, you need to push the pistons back in to the caliper, so the new wider pads will fit. If there are particles/rust, when the piston is forced back on top of that it tends to bind the piston. The resultant situation is that when the brakes are applied the piston is forced out to brake the rotor, but the piston doesn't float back since it is bound when the brakes are released. The brake pads wear down very quickly, the rotor can become warped with the heat (brakes applied all the time), you usually can smell the brakes, and you usually see a lot of brake dust on the rims.

    So when a brake job is done replacing the pads, you must check that the pistons are free to float and are able to be easily pushed back. If they can't, replace the calipers at the same time you are replacing the pads. If you could push the pistons back with your hands, they are probably okay. If you had to use a c-clamp or vise grips to force them back....they are probably all bound up. With most common model vehicles, these are usually very reasonably priced and worth it to replace if in doubt.

    I find I can usually get 2 sets of brake pad replacements for each set of caliper replacements on our vehicles, and the easiest time to replace them is while you are doing the brake job. Your situation would obviously vary depending upon your driving habits and annual mileage.

    With the symptoms you now describe, I believe you'll find you need new calipers because the pistons are stuck, new pads because they're worn down, and new rotors because they are warped. Be sure to replace and flush out all the old brake fluid.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Pull that plastic off, it snaps off. You'll have to do it from the inside, crawl inside the back. Sorry - it's your only choice.....
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Exactly what PADs and Rotors did you use? I had a 91, 93, 97 & 2000 Ford Explorers, and never had a single rotor warp. and they were the stock rotors. I use only the Permormance Friction CARBON METALLIC Brake Pads. I find that they last a long time (60,000 miles or more) and they make the rotors last a long time.
    From what you have said, replace both the front Caliphers now, and flush the brake lines, and put in all new brake fluid. You will not have this problem if you bleed out your brakes real good every 30,000 miles, same time that you should be flushing your transmission fluid.
    Good Luck,
    E.D.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    ceramic reinforced pads and rodors. they're supposed to be heat resistent and all that jazz. it only started warping them the last time i put rotors on.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    it pops off? well that explains it i was looking for screw holes and things like that. where on it should i pull? from the sides or under the rear window?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    anywhere you can.
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