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MY OVERDRIVE OFF LIGHT STARTED FLASHING AND SOMETIMES STAYING ON FOR A WHILE AT ABOUT 70K. I REGRETTABLY OWN A 2002 XLT 2WD EXPLORER. MY EXTENDED WARRANTY PURCHASED FROM FORD WAS GOOD UNTIL 75K. I BROUGHT THE CAR TO THE DEALER WITH THIS PROBLEM AT ABOUT 73-74K, STILL UNDER WARRANTY. THE DEALER, NORTHPORT FORD, GAVE THE CAR BACK SAYING THEIR WAS NO PROBLEM AND THEY UPDATED THE CODES. THE CAR STILL HAD THE PROBLEM AND THEN WE NOTICED SOME SPURRATIC SHIFTING PROBLEMS. AT ABOUT 77K I BROUGHT THE CAR BACK TO THE SAME DEALER FOR THE SAME PROBLEM. THEY TOLD ME I NEEDED A SOLENOID PACK AND IT WOULD COST $700 WITH A DISCOUNT FOR MY FIRST VISIT FOR WHICH I PAID $200+ FOR DIAGNOSIS AND A TRANNY SERVICE(WHICH I MAINTAINED REGULARLY AT THE DEALER). I MADE ONE PHONE CALL TO ANOTHER NEARBY FORD DEALER WHOM WOULD DO THE JOB FOR $550 AND TOLD THEM TO DO THE JOB AND DONT DIAGNOSE SINCE ANOTHER FORD DEALER ALREADY DID. ONE SOLENOID PACK LATER AND $750+ IN , SAME PROBLEM. NOW SHIFTING GETTING WORSE. GO BACK TO SECOND DEALER WHOM NOW DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM AS A BAD SERVO, IN SHORT NEEDS ANOTHER TRANNY.ANOTHER $125 IN DIAGNOSTIC FEES. COST FOR TRANNY FROM FORD $3000+ BUT THEY WOULD GRACIOUSLY GIVE ME A $300 CREDIT FOR MY $900+ IN WOES. I STARTED CALLING LOCAL TRANNY SHOPS AND FOUND THAT MY PROBLEM IS ANYTHING BUT UNIQUE. APPARENTLY FORD SELLS MANY SOLENOID PACKS DUE TO A SENSOR PICKING UP THE PRESSURE DROP WITHIN THE TRANNY, AND MANY SHOPS BELIEVE FORD IS OR SHOULD BE AWARE OF THIS. I PAID ANOTHER $2500 FOR A TRANNY. THIS AFTER THE PROBLEM OF THE OD OFF LIGHT BEING MIS DIAGNOSED WHILE UNDER WARRANTY AND FORD WILL NOT STAND BEHIND THEIR PRODUCT EXCEPT TO OFFER THE DIAGNOSTIC FEE BACK IN THE FORM OF A CREDIT TOWARDS AN OVERPRICED TRANNY!!! MY FRIEND, YOU ARE IN FOR A COSTLY REPAIR. I HOPE YOU CAN SELL YOUR FORD OR DONATE IT FOR A CHARITABLE DEDUCTION. I WILL POST MORE SINCE I MAY HAVE A LAW FIRM INTERESTED IN PURSUING A CLASS ACTION ON THIS APPARENTLY SYSTEMIC FORD TRANSMISSION PROBLEM.
Yes, that and you know the person is mad as hell...
So why tick off the people from whom you're seeking help?
tidester, host
Absent a reposting, any help for the problem, anyone?
Was this done?
Mark.
Tide: sometimes I think ya shoulda been a psychotherapist, or at least, a bartender...:):):):):)
The dealer says there is a "circuit board" w/the lights on it & refers me to a local Electronics place. They say there are no lights anywhere in the radio and that it never lit up. I know it has worked in the past but can find no lights to replace.
Anybody got any ideas?
Thanks
has anyone else had this problem?
any ideas?
~tom
what it turned out to be was a bearing in the axle and became worn and made a loud noise, and i too couldnt tell between noises.
hope this helps
~tom
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
The newer 4.0L V6 SOHC (Single Over Head Cam) 205hp, has a single camshaft in each head, for a total of two camshafts in the engine.
E.D. ISF
I had a thermostat replaced Nov 11 and 1 month later it was replaced again. Now 3 weeks after the 2nd thermostat, it starting to fail again.
I start the Explorer, and let the temp gauge go to its usual position (I do not have the heat on). It hits the normal spot (right on the temp gauge icon), and then it starts going down. If I turn on the heat, the gauge "floats". Exact same thing as the previous 2 times.
I'm starting to worry this is just not a case of a bad thermostat but something worse. Any advice would be great.
Thanks.
PS. I've recently had O2 and IAC valve replaced for a stalling/no start issue. Not sure if that helps or not.
yesterday it was frozen so i really reaped on it an broke it. not off, jsut not its very loose and wont turn back to the normal position, or open anything.
is there a way to get into the back door to fix it?
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
and i have to say, the pads and rodors were the most expensive, proven, and tested ones i could find...so i dont think its the materials...
~tom
When one changes the brake pads, you need to push the pistons back in to the caliper, so the new wider pads will fit. If there are particles/rust, when the piston is forced back on top of that it tends to bind the piston. The resultant situation is that when the brakes are applied the piston is forced out to brake the rotor, but the piston doesn't float back since it is bound when the brakes are released. The brake pads wear down very quickly, the rotor can become warped with the heat (brakes applied all the time), you usually can smell the brakes, and you usually see a lot of brake dust on the rims.
So when a brake job is done replacing the pads, you must check that the pistons are free to float and are able to be easily pushed back. If they can't, replace the calipers at the same time you are replacing the pads. If you could push the pistons back with your hands, they are probably okay. If you had to use a c-clamp or vise grips to force them back....they are probably all bound up. With most common model vehicles, these are usually very reasonably priced and worth it to replace if in doubt.
I find I can usually get 2 sets of brake pad replacements for each set of caliper replacements on our vehicles, and the easiest time to replace them is while you are doing the brake job. Your situation would obviously vary depending upon your driving habits and annual mileage.
With the symptoms you now describe, I believe you'll find you need new calipers because the pistons are stuck, new pads because they're worn down, and new rotors because they are warped. Be sure to replace and flush out all the old brake fluid.
From what you have said, replace both the front Caliphers now, and flush the brake lines, and put in all new brake fluid. You will not have this problem if you bleed out your brakes real good every 30,000 miles, same time that you should be flushing your transmission fluid.
Good Luck,
E.D.