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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    ok...just so long as it really pops off!
    if i break it, oh well
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    You don't have much choice - but there is a way, because the dealer will do the same.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    The rear panel is held on the same way as the door panels are. Carefully pry under it on the sides and lower edges. The plastic fasteners "pop" off. Since you can't get the rear hatch open, this may be very difficult. It might bend enough to come off, but I think it will be tough. You might be able to figure out a way to grab hold of it and pull it off at the outer edges. The fasteners are usually about 2 inches in from the outer edges. I think it has some screws in the center part, I seem to remember it has a strap or something like that. Let us know how it goes.
    Good Luck,
    E.D.
  • littleducklittleduck Member Posts: 2
    I had a trip to NW last couple weeks and came back to TX on Dec 31st night. Lost power when drived up the ramp into my garage, checked and found transmission serious leakage, had the truck towed to dealer yesterday and dealer found a hose loosed. They refilled transmission and test drive, told me it's fixed. I just want to know if I should ask them to check anything else or how I know transmission is not damaged.Thanks.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    definatly.
    If you dont, you may be back at the dealer sooner than you expected. If not, its always better to be safe than sorry, and its worth the 60-80 dollars to have it checked again, especially if it fails again.
    and also, if they cannot give you any assurances that the transmission is not damaged, this might be a clue as to whether or not it is actually fixed. ive had plenty of dealer experiences where it was, "if you dont ask, they dont tell." costly and painstaking
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    -the brakes
    a few days ago i replaced the front and rear drum brakes, and starting yesterday, the rear driver drum locks up, even if i barely hit the brakes, therefore i have to start braking waaaayyy away from a suspected stop. and because its only that one brake, i fishtail immediatly. i have adjusted the rear drums, so they're all the way in. also, since it has been doing this, it shakes every time i hit the brakes.
    -the broken rear handle
    a tried your suggestion on removing the rear interior panel, but it wont budge. i've tried every position and placement, but it wont move! is there maybe a tool i can buy to make this easier, or should i just take it to the dealer?
    thanks
    ~tom
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I would go back and check your work on the rear drum brakes. Remove both rear drums and look carefully at each side, comparing them to each other, to be sure that all the parts are put together the same. Check the installed position of the brake shoes, to be sure they are in the correct positions. Note that one brake shoe on each side has longer brake lining than the other. This shoe with the longer lining is the primary brake shoe, and always goes towards the REAR of the car. The other shoe has the shorter lining and is called the secondary brake shoe, and always installs towards the FRONT of the car. Check the emergency brake linkage and the emergency brake cables to be sure it is all installed correctly and that the emergency brake cable has some slack, so that the emergency brake is released one ach wheel. After checking and correcting everything, put the drums and wheels back on, leave rear wheel off the ground, apply the emergency brake and see if they hold. You can block the front wheels, put the car in gear, and the rear wheels should not turn. Then release the emergency brake and watch to be sure that both wheels turn. Try this several times to be sure the emergency brakes and cables do not stick.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • unhappy4fordunhappy4ford Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with my 2005 explorer (along with many others!) I have taken it in for this problem at least twice if not three times. They all tell me that "clunking is normal". We are currently in contact with Ford itself who also told us that clunking is normal. I DO NOT in any way, shape pr form think that the noise I hear while backing up slowly is normal. It sounds like I have hit something every time. I think they just cant seem to fix there products. This is the 4th problem I have had with my car in the year and a half I have owned it and they can only seem to fix 2! Ford just told me to try another Ford dealer to try and repair it! How is that for fixing a problem?!!!!!?
  • unhappy4fordunhappy4ford Member Posts: 2
    I was just wondering if anyone who owns a Ford Explorer 2005 and newer is having problems with their Advantrak. My almost since day 1 has stopped working intermittently and the light comes on saying check advantrak, advantrak off but the button says its on. I have brought my car in atleast 7-9 times for this problem and all they do is reset the computer and say there is no code showing for it. We escalated it to Ford customer care and were getting some results and we thought they had finally fixed it (twice now) and a week later the light starts coming on again. We actually had to try and deliver it to them while the light was turned on so they could read the code. Of course it would never turn when I was in the area of the dealer or it was open. Finally they got it to duplicate and said they fixed it and a week later again it turned on. Now they wont return our calls and Ford customer care has told us to try another ford dealer. Has any one else had a similar problem???????
  • lynniecheblynniecheb Member Posts: 1
    After jumping my sons car, my DH checked my battery charge and saw it was low so charged it up. When he took off the charger cables, the alarm system started up with horn blaring, etc. I don't have a key fob to disarm it and tried the suggestions in the owners manual (turn key to accessory, etc.) but they didn't work. Can anyone help to restore our sanity and the sanity of our neighbors?
    Thanks!
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    thank you for this reply. if it wasnt for this, i would never have known the difference. however, they look the same size. i have not done this yet, but am plannin on it tomorrow.
    ive checked the rear drums once before, and did the whole emergency brake thing, all is well.
    today i noticed the brakes squeak and squak. stopping squeaks like a squealy brake, but when i accelerate, the rear brake drum lets out a low pitched whine, sounds like a fog horn. this continues untill i speed up significantly, then it fades away until the next time i stop.
    thanks
    ~tom
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    "After jumping my sons car, my DH checked my battery charge and saw it was low so charged it up. When he took off the charger cables, the alarm system started up with horn blaring, etc. I don't have a key fob to disarm it and tried the suggestions in the owners manual (turn key to accessory, etc.) but they didn't work. Can anyone help to restore our sanity and the sanity of our neighbors?"

    Questions in Response;
    1. Obviously your sons car needed a jump, but did YOUR cars battery act normally before this jump? Meaning did your lights and electrical system seem normal to you, not dim or anything like that?
    2. How did your DH know your battery was low, did he just see the battery gauge low, or did he test the battery volts with a voltmeter? Normally the battery should read about 12.7 volts with engine and everything off, and it should read about 14 to 14.2 volts with engine running and lights and AC OFF. WIth engine running and Lights and AC ON, the volts may read about 13 to 13.5 volts.
    3. The alarm initiating when the battery charger was removed means there was a surge introduced, it could be because of a problem with the charger, or with your electrical system. Is the battery acting and charging normally now? Check it with a voltmeter, it you hav'nt already. Are the battery voltage readings in the normal range as I noted above?
    4. The alarm should turn off if you turn the key to the on position, then to off. I hope it is off by now. If you can't get it to shut up, you may have to unplug the wires from the horns or from the horn relay (whichever is easiest to reach) until you can get if fixed at the Dealer or a Shop.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • ejr1203ejr1203 Member Posts: 1
    Thanks for the TIP! It worked perfectly. I now have heat in my 96 Explorer! The blend door fix worked like a champ!
  • dingbatblondedingbatblonde Member Posts: 1
    The seat belt is stuck under the flap of the back seat. In other words, when the back seat is folded down, there is a flap that can be lifted up to retrieve the jack poles. The seat belt somehow got tucked under this flap and will not allow any movement of the seat belt. Thus, the flap is sticking straight up in the air. What do I do now?
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    Our 04 explorer when started, will idle as normal an then fall rapidly and if the gas isn't pressed, it turns off. It happened after the 2nd time the transmission was fixed. Truck has 58kmiles. Lately, a bitter citrus like sent comes to mind... :lemon:

    -Cj
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    "Thanks for the TIP! It worked perfectly. I now have heat in my 96 Explorer! The blend door fix worked like a champ!"

    You're Welcome, Glad it's working for you!
    E.D. ISF
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I am trying to picture this problem. Can you explain a little more how the seat belt is tucked under the flap?
    E.D. ISF
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    It sounds like a simple matter, this problem is usually caused by the IAC valve, it gets some dirt inside and it sticks. It needs to be removed and cleaned with some throttle body cleaner and a new gasket or replace the unit with a new one. It is easy to find, on top of the throttle body, is attached with 2 small bolts and has a 2 wire electrical connector plugged into it. Not an uncommon problem and fairly easy and inexpensive to fix.
    Other things that could cause the problem are vaccuum leaks and other such stuff, but check the IAC first.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • mspurlinmspurlin Member Posts: 2
    I have had an problem my 2004 explorer since june of 06. I have taken the explorer in over 6 times for the same problem. During the summer the A/C would randomly quit blowing cold air and start blowing hot air. This lasted all summer finally I let the problem rest thinking we would tackle it further the next spring since I wouldn't need the A/C over the winter. However, since the A/C doesn't work the defroster doesn't pull the moisture out of the air and now I sometimes have to drive with my windows down in freezing weather. Please help.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Sounds like a bad expansion valve to me - pretty easy to fix if you know what you're doing. Just take it to the dealer or other good shop, and have it done.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Your problem sounds simple enough, EXCEPT for the part that says "I have taken the explorer in over 6 times for the same problem". Normally I would have said that this is likely a simple problem, it sounds like air, moisture or a restriction in the system. I would have asked what they found, was there a sign of a leak, did they have to add refrigerant each time, or was the system tight? Was there any sign of an electrical problem, that could cause the compressor clutch to be disengaging? If so, then electrical diagnosis and repair is in order. If the problem was a leak, the solution would be to simply find and repair the leak and recharge the system. If NO leak is found (tight system) and the cluch remaims engaged, then assume the problem is internal, most likely a restriction, in which case I would have suggested to recover the refrigerant, remove the orifice tube and look for prescence of deribis or clogging on the inlet screen. If no deribis on the o-tube inlet screen, put it back together, if deribis is found on the o-tube inlet screen, flush the condenser, install new o-tube, then it put back together. Next replace the accumulator, evacuate and recharge the system. Check all operating parameters, temps amd pressures. Check to be sure that the outside of the condenser is clean and that there is good airflow through the condenser.
    BUT, since you said that "I have taken the explorer in over 6 times for the same problem", then obviously whoever was trying to fix doesn't know what they are doing, so I would strongly suggest that you take it elsewhere to be repaired. Ask them for the system pressures on the high side and on the low side, and post back here if you need further assistance.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • mspurlinmspurlin Member Posts: 2
    Thank you, From the research I have done I figure it is the orifice tube also. The dealership thought it was the clutch, a loose connection, a vacuum hose disconnected and the ac control module. looking through the records I see no evidence of them checking the o-tube.
  • martypi89martypi89 Member Posts: 2
    Can you advise as to where you purchased the 4X4 module for your 2002 Explorer. I've tried many places with no luck. Dealer wants $312.00 plus about $200.00 in labor. Thanks.
  • mfinefrockmfinefrock Member Posts: 4
    I was wondering if someone could help me, my 1997 Explorer's factory radio all of a sudden lost all radio reception. I pulled out the radio to check the antenna connection. no problems. followed the antenna wire behind the glove box where there is another connector. to make a long story short... if I plug in the connector part way so that the outer portion of the plug doesn't make contact (just the center pin is in contact), I get reception, if I plug it in all the way, nothing.

    Thank you in advance for any suggestions.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    i have adressed and fixed the problem. rear drum brake pads typically wear their own pattern into the drum. when the new brake pads were fitted, the pads couldnt let the drum turn properly, and there fore locked up at the slightest touch. ive replaced both rear drums, and now she works fine. also, a side note, there was no difference in pad length on the brake shoes.
    ~tom
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    I will take a long shot at this problem. I sounds like you have a ground problem with the antenna. Check the fender mount of the antenna to make sure nothing has worn or eroded over the years. The problem might also be the cable that runs from the antenna to the radio.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    "i have adressed and fixed the problem. rear drum brake pads typically wear their own pattern into the drum. when the new brake pads were fitted, the pads couldnt let the drum turn properly, and there fore locked up at the slightest touch. ive replaced both rear drums, and now she works fine. also, a side note, there was no difference in pad length on the brake shoes."

    Glad you got the problem fixed. Trying to diagnose and help over the internet is not as easy as being there, and being able to look at every detail. When new brake linings are put on, the drums or rotors would normally be checked for wear and trueness or taken to a machine shop to be turned. Yours must have had step wear in the drums, in which case they should have been replaced at the same time the new linings were put on.
    In general, when working on brakes, you need to check everything associated with the brakes, while you are in there, things like the rotors, brake hardware, wheel cylinders, calipers, brake lines, cables, bearings, seals, bushings, shocks, suspension, etc.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Sounds like a good possiblity bioman. An easy way to test for an antenna problem is to get another antenna and plug it into the radio and see if it works better.
  • bagsikbagsik Member Posts: 2
    i had a weird experience yesterday, while in my truck (Ford Explore 2003), i'm completely stopped & on a flat surface on the road, when suddenly the truck moved or swayed to my right few times, & i wasn't even driving. it was snowing hard, so first, i used 4x4 low & it was running perfect, no slips or anything like that but after awhile when i was at a complete stop, suddenly it started to sway to my right from the rear end & so i tried to press the 4x4 high, it also did the same thing. what could be wrong? please advice. thanks.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    does the engine rev when it does this?
    was it windy out, and possibly just pushing the car around on the ice?
    does the 4 wheel drive properly engage?
  • martypi89martypi89 Member Posts: 2
    I need to replace my 4X4 module and can't seem to locate one except through a Ford dealer. I know someone mentioned buying one online for about $150 which is half the cost of the Ford dealer. I was wondering if anyone knows of a parts supplier I could try.
  • kattrukattru Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 1999 EB Ford Explorer that sprung a leak in one of the hoses today. The engine ran hot, I pulled over and filled the radiator and radiator coolant container with water, got home ok, saw bubble coming from hose in the front that leads to radiator cap area from radiator coolant container. Is it easy to replace this hose and what exactly is the hose called. I do very little mechanical work, but I'm broke and need to fix this myself. Also, how can I tell if this is the only hose that is leaking? thanks for any answers. Confused in Texas - Mike
  • chadp1chadp1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 explorer that has random starting problems and was hoping for some help. it has failed to start 4 different times now. The battery and starter are fine, but the engine doesnt catch. Often, if it sits for a while,it starts without a problem. It also started after i had it towed, so the mechanic couldn't help. The ford dealer said it might be the fuel pump and suggested tapping the gas tank with a rubber mallet - he said this could help. It didn't help immediately, but i was able to start it 45 minutes later. Has anyone had a similar problem?
    thanks
    chadp1
  • bagsikbagsik Member Posts: 2
    the engine does not rev when it sways or moves. yes i think the 4X4 is engaged properly & yes it was a lttle bit windy but not enough to push the truck around the ice (but maybe). thanks for the reply
  • manuelhubsmanuelhubs Member Posts: 2
    Have a 94 explorer that loses coolant. I had a compression check done, by Midas, and had no compression loss. Checked the oil, it's fine. Do not smell the sweet smell in the engine compartment. Had the radiator replaced less than a month ago. If the head gasket was blown, that would read as a loss of compression? Vehicle has a lot of miles (251,000) but is good.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    ok. when you say sways, im assuming you mean left to right, as in almost fishtailing. if this is so, and the engine does not rev, the wind must haev pushed it. if you think about it, the only thing that would make a vehicle sway in icy/snowy conditions is if gas is being applied to the engine and spinning the wheels, or if it was windy and therefore pushing the car. it also could be that your 4 wheel drive isnt working properly and is disengaging, sending jolts to the rear wheels, enough to make them spin momentarily and cause the vehicle to slip.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    i thought i had the problem fixed, but apparently i didnt. it started locking up again, and i got fed up, so i took it into the brake team and told them to replace the braking system. so, $263 for process and $160 for parts later its really runnign fine. now, new lines, rotors, calipers, pads, drums+complete setup later, i feel safe adn i can rest knowing im not gonna wreck later.
    thank you for all the replies
    ~tom
  • fordexploderfordexploder Member Posts: 11
    chadp1:

    My 2 cents can be found at post #5366. I had these symptoms on a Ranger, finally got a trouble code and fixed it with a new fuel pump relay (little black box amongst others under the hood in the power distribution box). You might find other helpful info in that string of comments. Good luck. It's no fun being stranded like that - happens at the worst times. You say battery and starter are fine. I assume then you get the cranking of the engine but no turn over. That's the way mine was - starved for fuel.

    If you decide to go this route do me a favor. Buy the part, keep it in the glovebox. Next time the problem occurs, slap that bad boy in and let me know if it doesn't start right up. I sure hope so :) .
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Did you have an engine compression test done, or a cooling pressure test done? It's either leaking out somewhere, or getting sucked into the engine....in which case it would be in the oil, or into the intake manifold and burned and sent out the exhaust.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    theres a way to manually engage the 4 wheel drive. if you remove the motor on the back of the transmission, theres a spool that can be turned to either 2-hi, 4-hi, neutral, or 4-lo. however, this is somoewhat difficult, but if you need emergency 4 wheel drive as i did, its worth it.
    ~tom
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    How much coolant do you loose? Or how much coolant do you have to add to fill it back up? Coolant can leak out in several places, external or internal. If you can't find any obvious signs of a leak, then the cooling system pressure testing method would be required. The system is filled with coolant and then the system is pressurized with 15 to 20 pounds of air pressure, then watch and listen for any leaks.
  • ekahunaekahuna Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 2001 Explorer XLT, my mechanic told me to hit the gas tank on the bottom with a rubber mallet while someone is trying to start the truck. I used a sledge hammer covered with an old sweatshirt for padding. You may have to do this two or three times, but eventually you will hear the pump whine and the truck should start. Eventually you will have to replace the fuel pump, I am having my done after encountering this a couple of times already. I have 60,000+ miles on mine.

    Hope this helps!
  • ersariersari Member Posts: 3
    Hello- I have an 01 for explorer...I have essentially two problems...#1 is I pulled on my hood release, and it opened up completely, but the hood failed to open. I tried pushing against the latch with a long screw driver but i am unsure if it pushes back or unlatches off to the side...Next is this, I tried to start the vehicle and it failed to turn over just clicks...I have lights, horn etc...I'm fearing that i may have a frozen engine, and i'd like to know what diagnostics i can employ to discern whether or not this is so...But i first have to be able to access the engine I'm sure! I await replies and I'm grateful for them and their guidance...Thank you...ersari
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Sounds like your battery has reached end-of-life. Anything over 4 years is pretty much on borrowed time. Starting the car requires significantly more power (current) than turning on your lights, which is most likely why your starter won't engage and turn.

    Need to get your hood so you can open, most likely you'll be able to jump the battery to get it started, then drive to an auto parts store where they can do an alternator/battery check for you.
  • rmncoknmermncoknme Member Posts: 18
    I have a 1999 EB V-8. Try a tube clamp on the original hose. But this does not answer why your car was running hot in the first place. I would suggest you drain and refill your coolant system; unless you used distilled water the radiator and heater core are going to get corroded real fast. Also, proper coolant/distilled water mixture can handle more heat than water alone. I'd suggest you replace the radiator cap; after 7 years mine was all cracked around the seal. If you do replace the coolant, there are plugs in the engine block near the exhaust manifolds that allow the block to be drained; make sure you do this to get all the old coolant/water out.

    Also, to find other leaks, look for the green color near other fittings; or sticky residues. Oil leaks aren't usually sticky....
  • manuelhubsmanuelhubs Member Posts: 2
    I have to fill up the overflow bottle every couple of days. I meant to say that I had a cooling system pressure test and had no signs of compression loss. I will replace the thermostat and see if anything changes. Vehicle was doing fine until a couple of months ago.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    If you are filling the overflow every couple days, you have a significant leak somewhere. Fluid is drawn from the overflow only after an engine cool down cycle, so if you top off the overflow when the engine is hot......and then let it cool down overnight....if you check it in the morning after it cooled down you'll see exactly how much you are loosing each day.

    You might consider putting a bottle of Bars Leak in it, for a short term fix.....but something leaking that much I would really want to find and fix. And one more thing....I'd be carrying around a couple of jugs of water in the back, until you were assured this was resolved, just to avoid getting stuck somewhere.
  • ryana97ryana97 Member Posts: 8
    I started my 2002 Explorer this morning via remote starter and when I entered the car noticed the ABS and Airbag light were dimmly lit, solid on not flashing. The heater was on manual and it was about 11F outside and turned on the front defroster. Took several seconds for it to kick on but when it did the ABS and airbag lights went off. Drove about another 5-mintues turned off the heater and then turned back on the defroster. Both lights came back on but as soon as the blower started up they went off. Drove another 10-minutes to work and shut off the car and restarted and could no duplicate. Any idea what the problem is?
  • lovelylu42lovelylu42 Member Posts: 1
    car cranks but no start. changed the fuel pump, filter and relay - still no start. can a faulty fuel injector regulator cause a no start? Has anyone else had a problem like this?
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    i would check your spark plugs, wires, and the distributor.
    ~tom
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