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However, the problem CAN get BIGGER, and that is what happened to my 2000 V8 XLT in August 2006. My Explorer ran so bad the engine would not stay running unless I gave it the gas, and this came on suddenly. I could HEAR a vacuum sound when standing beside the vehicle, it came from near the left front wheel. Do you hear any kind of sound like a vaccum leak? Listen in front of the left front wheel, under the battery. My problem turned out to be a leaking Vacuum Purge Valve, located under the battery, with 2 large vacuum hoses, 1 small vacuum hose, and a 2 wire electrical connector connected to it. It seems that some corrosion or battery acid leaked down on it and ate part of the plastic away at the place where one of the large hoses connected to it, and created a small hole in it. I could hear the sound but not see it. To get to it, I had to remove the left front wheel, loosen the plastic inner fender cover and pull the front of it down so I could see the valve. I still could not see the problem, but I could hear the vacuum leak. I removed the 2 screws that held it on, and I found the hole on the backside. I took the vlave off and used epoxy glue to fix it, cured it with a heat lamp, and put it back on, No Leak!
So maybe that could be your problem. If not, it might help someone else.
Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida
Thanks
Kel
Questions are: 1) once running, shouldn't engine be self-sustaining despite condition of battery? and 2) what was likely damaged due to reversed jumper cables?
Should my next step be to replace the alternator, or are there other easier and less expensive things to check first?
I could go into long explainations about what it might be, but what is really needed is a good professional diagnosis, I would need information such as high and low pressure readings at idle and at 1500 rpm, vent temps under varying conditions, and temperatures of the lines at various points, and is the compressor staying on or kicking on and off. Without being there and touching and feeling it, I would need a lot of information that you probably can't provide over the internet. It is best for you to take it to a pro that knows what he is doing.
azimmermann:
And it could be a lot of other thngs, air and moisture in the system can cause an ice particle to form at the cold end of the orifice tube, temporarily blocking the orifice tube, or the system could have a leak and the refrigerant charge is low causing the compressor to cycle on and off frequently. Test the system with the AC on MAX COOL and the Blower on High, vehicle parked in the the shade with the windows up, and a dial type thermometer stuck in the center discharge vent of the dash. Once the AC cools down, it should blow 55 degrees or cooler out the vent and below 50 degrees driving down the road. Mid forties degrees is considered a very good discharge temperature when the outside air is in the 90's. And what about the rest of the system, is the accumulator very old (over 5 or 6 years) it could be saturated and release small amounts of moisture or deribis (that is why it is always recommended to replace the accumulator any time any major component is replaced). And what about the condenser, is it clean and have good air flow through it? What about the fan and fan clutch, are they working properly? Belt tight? Radiator temp should be normal, not hot. The liquid line going from the condenser to the orifice tube should feel warm to the touch, not hot, not cool. The line coming out of the evaporator and the accumulator should feel cold, and if the charge is good, the line from the accumulator to the compressor should be cold all the way to the suction port of the compressor. A system that is working correctly will have pressures approximately as follows:
At idle Low Side 30 lbs, going down to about 22 lbs, then compressor cycles off (at idle, it may not be able to pull down to 22 pounds and cycle off if it's very hot outside, unless the system is very strong).
At idle High Side about 225 lbs.
At 1500 RPM Low Side 25 lbs, going down to 22 lbs, then compressor cycles off.
At 1500 RPM High Side 235 to 245. Make sure you have good air flow through the condenser coil.
There is much more to check than I have included in this basic primer. You can also gather much useful information by measuring the line temperatures with an infared thermometer, I find that very useful, but the most useful information is measuring the pressures, feeling the line temps, measuring the Vent temp and checking for refrigerant leaks.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
help where do I turn ?????
I'm in the market for an SUV and I've narrowed my choices down to two vehicles (02 Explorer limited vs. 01 Grand Cherokee Limited). I am extremely interested in both and they both feature the V8 engines with about 80k miles. Both have leather, power everything, etc. etc.. The Explorer has 20" rims and the Jeep has a 4" lift kit with over sized tires. Both are in immaculate condition appearance-wise. Both these vehicles are private owners, not a dealership so no warranty would be involved.
Besides the usual test drive (they both drive great), I did take them into a mechanic to inspect them. Fortunately they're both mechanically sound.
I don't feel like jumping through hoops for the bank and have to make payments so I plan on paying cash for one of these two SUV's which I've worked really hard for.
My question is; Given you're knowledge of the two make and models, which one would most likely give me the least problems (mechanically) approaching 90k to 150k miles?
Get the one you like best - either will serve you well.
Look inside your grille with a flashlight on the driver's side. Protruding out of a plastic spacer panel just in front of the condenser with a little pointed screw in device is your external sensor. I can see no way to get to it without taking out the grille. I'd tap it rather aggressively and test. Remember that reading changeouts take time, and move a couple of degrees at a time usually. If this doesn't fix it, power down the car by pulling a battery cable for a few minutes, then reconnect. This may reboot it for you. If that fails, you need a new sensor and will have to replace that little bugger. Not expensive, just a pain to get to, only because the grille is fixed in place and not attached to the hood. Design.
Good luck, with this.
Not really back in those years, they would go a good 100,000 without any problems if they were serviced. My 94 went 140,000 with no issues at which point I gave the truck away, it could still be running for all I know. But when you buy one from a junkyard, you never know.
The newer 5 and 6 speed trannys do have their issues, mostly with programming, but you can encounter some interesting complications with those.
You are correct about the O/D light though - if yours starts flashing, you're done for, head for the nearest dealer!!!
Well that's too bad, because Ford has some excellent product out there these days. Explorer transmissions however, aren't really on that list.......
My 94 ran 140,000 miles with routine maintenance every 30,000 miles, no problem. It was probably the best out of the 7 Explorer/Mountaineers I've owned....
Trouble code P1451 is displayed in scanner (EVAP control system vent control valve circuit malfunction). It was suggested that the cause could be a vacuum leak, but none has been located. Too, the "operational data" from the scanner says, "Fuel System 1, Open Loop (det)." The manual for the scanner says this should be a "closed loop" situation.
Does anyone have any ideas about possible causes that I can address, before surrendering and taking this beast to a shop?
Thanks,
mike hill