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I was searching for this problem on the web and came across this posting. I am having the same problem and am wondering if you ever were able to determine the problem.
Thanks.
they tell me the rim is rusting form the inside out. its a 2002 with the optional chrome wheels. they said i would need to find someone who can recoat the inside of the wheel. ive never needed to do something like this. any help would be appreciated.
I bought this truck new, and overall the truck has been very reliable, but I'm wondering if it is time to sell it.
Also - If the oil pan can be removed easily or does the transfer case need to be removed as well ?
I have been doing the following proceedure to all my vehicles, all brands with all type tires for many years. I have never had a problem with slow leaks/rim leaks again.
You need to do this with an air compressor and tire filling hose or near an air pump. It is best to roll the vehicle so that the tire valve stem is located at about the 9 o'clock or 3 o'clock position. This will allow you good working room for the proceedure.
One tire at a time, SLOWLY & CAREFULLY remove the tire valve stem core with a valve stem core removal tool (cheap). HOLD ONTO the valve core very carefully so that it doesn't blow away, keep it in your hand, and let all the air come out of the tire. Then take a Large can of WD-40 spray oil or similar substance with the red plastic "straw" on it, stick the straw down about 2 inches down into the valve stem, HOLD the "straw" tightly so it doesn't fall down into the inside of the tire, and holding the WD-40 can upright, spray oil into the inside of the tire for about 20 to 30 seconds. Then remove the "straw" and reinsert the valve core firmly, and refill the tire with air to the correct tire pressure. Do this to all tires, then take it for a short drive to spread the film of oil around inside the tires and rims. This has worked perfect for me for at least 15 years, has had NO detrimental effect on the tires or rims, and the tire balance remains the same and the tires ride smooth. When new tires are put on, the "fresh" rubber usually seals very good, but as time goes by the rubber starts to harden and the rim can start to rust under the rubber and cause seepage. The oil will prevent the rust and form a perfect seal. I would usually do this when the tires are about halfway through their life and/or when I have to add air to the tires between oil changes (7,500 mile intervals). The tire pressure should drop no more that 4 pounds during this 7,500 mile interval, from 32 psi down to 28 psi. If it drops more than that, I add the spray oil to the tires, end of problem.
Hope this helps.
E.D. ISF
I received a used steering column from the junk yard. Everything looked the same as the original except the shaft only protruded out 1/4" while my original column's shaft protruded 3/4". There was not enough lenght on the shaft to mount the steering wheel. :mad:
My original steering column-part number was 4L2Z-3C529-DA, I replaced it with this part 5L2Z-3C529-A, and it was new from Ford out of the box. I don't know how much shaft protruded out of the column, but my original steering wheel did fit correctly. prubbo, you did not pull the steering column your self?? Do you know if it's out of a 2002-2004 Ford Explorer or Ford Mountaineer?? Did you see this part number 5L2Z-3C529-A, on the steering column or just on the junk yard invoice?? There is something suspect about the steering column you received. If you have a 2002 Ford Explorer this 5L2Z-3C529-A, steering column and your original steering wheel should fit! Go to your local ford parts dealer with the steering column and steering wheel and ask ford's part dealer why it will not fit? paul...
Any advice or tips on removing the shifter linkage from column on 96 ford explorer. I have a part somewhere on the shifter linkage rod broken and need to remove in order to repair...any advise would be appreciated...tx
I think the fan doesn't blow enough. Fan speed one is "barely anything", speed two "kinda something", speed three "barely something", speed four "blows, makes a lot of noise, some heat".
Is there a heavy duty fan available?
Thanks!
Also, I have a '94 explorer and it's been surging. I was told by the good people at Auto Zone that it was my EGR valve, which I've replaced and still have the problem.
I never had any problem in my car related to ABS or Cruise Control and dealer says it not their fault... its a coincidence... I can't seem to buy that. Does anybody know which part is this and if I can replace it myself...Ford Part #. and or image??
when it was a couple years old i noticed that when cold the driver side windshield wiper didn't seem to work well.
took it to the dealer they replaced the wiper blade. helped a bit.
now i notice if i pull in on the base of the washer arm, the whole units moves - i think this is why it doesnt wipe well (passenger side doesnt do this - it is tight).
does anyone know if there is an easy way to tighten this up... maybe its as easy as tightening a bolt somewhere?
thanks
I checked the fuses under the dash and could not find any that needed replacing.
Any suggestions or what specific fuse I should look at?
Thanks
U-Joint or other problem?
Thanks! Rachel
Thinking I need to replace the leaking hose this time (but not the other one). What I am wondering is if there could be a problem, like air in the hose, if I simply remove the hose and replace it. That would result in loss of some or all the fluid in the reservoir and the hose that is replaced. When I refill the reservoir would any trapped air cause problems. Is the reservoir pressurized? I could try filling the new hose with fluid but there still could be some trapped air. Don't want to cause any power steering issues.
Does this sound like a fuse, switches or shift solenoid? Any trouble shooting tips appreciated. I have an ohm and voltmeter.
When selecting LO or HI, there is no clicking sound behind the glove box. Also, all 4x4 fuses are good. Disconnected neg term of battery for short time, but no effect when reconnected.
Does this sound like the 4x4 module? Any way I can check or need to take to dealer?
the poster you are responding to, has made only 1 post.
they are a troll or a 'plant' who make a negative comment and does not post again. :mad:
It tends to happen more often when the outside temperature is below freezing, and when the temperature gauge is about 1/3 up in the normal range.
The tone is very loud and seems to come from the front of the car under the hood.
Does anyone know what this might be?
Thanks.
I have a 1998 Ford Explorer XLT with AWD and 5.0L V8. My problem is a Terrible Vacumm leak. There's an open port where a hose used to be hooked up. It's right underneath the top intake cover, towards the firewall on the right side.(its next to the master cylinder.) I plugged it for now with a 3/8 vacuum plug and its back to normal idle. but I don’t want to damage anything by " jimmy-rigging." like that. I don’t see any hose's loose anywhere, and I really cant figure out how to read the diagram under the hood very well to try and trace in back to where its being fed from. Any suggestions? any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for your time
Can anyone give me an idea fo what it will cost to replace and repair this seal?
Have an extended service warranty but wanted to check the price first. Have a $200 deductible on the warranty.
Problem is nothing serious at the moment just some very small drips (less than a teaspoon a day).
Thanks
Bioman