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when I push the button, it does nothing, not even a sound from the actuator in the back. Nor do the lights light back up... I checked the fuses and they are all fine, I did both tests on the actuator its self and there is nothing wrong with it. I even tried replacing the push button on the dash with another used button, but still nothing. Does anyone have any ideas? Has this happened to anyone before?
Granted she hasn't been back to check for replies, but sometimes that's how it works with people busy with life. Been there, done that.
-John
To start, I had to replace the transmission at 72,500 miles! That ended up costing my wife and I $4,500 of which we couldn't afford and that was for a rebuild (I am starting to think that was a little high). Then, we get this huge crack up the back of the Explorer. I kind of anticipated it since I had seen it on many other Explorers before it happened to us. I haven't paid to have that fixed yet because I don't think that I should. Next, the O/D lights kept coming on. Come to find out the rebuilt transmission had problems too! This vehicle belongs in a scrap heap!
I googled these problems and found that there are lots of people out there with the same ones. I found a websites that was helpful in making me feel like I wasn't alone; Carcomplaints.com.
Anyone here want to buy a "real nice" piece of scrap metal???
I wish you better luck than I had for the duration of your relationship with this heap!
Good Luck,
E.D.
For those with the door ajar notification, I appreciate the information, I'm going to try and get into my door panel this weekend. Any suggestions for properly getting the window and door lock control panels off without breaking the plastic clips holding them in place?
E.D.
I am just looking to sell it now.
Donna
Answer - This depends on the Age and Capacity of the battery. Compare the battery to a glass of water. The bigger the battery, the more water it holds. It is the same for the battery, the larger it is (more capacity), the more power it holds. As the glass can hold different levels of water, the battery can hold varying levels of power. Only thing is that you can't see the amount of power in the battery, like you can see the water in the glass. The battery capacity is not directly related to the physical size of the battery, it is the RATING of the battery that determines how much power it can hold. There are several terms for battery capacity that may be quite confusing to you, Cold Cranking Amps, Hot Cranking Amps, Reserve Capacity, etc. To compare apples to apples you need to use the same terms when comparing batteries, the Cold Cranking Amps is the oldest and most common, and easiest to understand. So the larger the Cold Cranking Amps, the more powerful the battery. The battery also loses power as it ages, due to chemical breakdown within the battery. Average battery life varies a lot, but 4 to 5 years is about average in normal service. The battery also loses power the more it is charged and discharged, it loses a little bit of life each time it is discharged, therefore a total discharge like you experienced will drain some life from the battery. You can charge it back up, but the amount of available power becomes less after each discharge, so that the power of the battery declines as time and use take there toll. Cold weather also weakens a battery.
2. Should I go replace it?
Answer - Maybe, depending on how much power is left in the battery.
3. Is there any way to tell?
Answer - Yes, the battery can be tested using a "LOAD TEST". You can take the vehicle to an auto parts store and have them "LOAD TEST" the battery. It is usually done for free, as they are hoping to sell you a battery. BE SURE that they FULLY CHARGE the battery BEFORE the LOAD TEST. Even a good battery will test bad if it is not fully charged. Remember the glass of water? An almost empty glass of water would test low, even if the glass is good. The standard rating for the load test is that the battery is good if it can put out at least HALF of it's COLD CRANKING AMPS rating without dropping below 9 1/2 volts. The LOAD TESTER does two things at the same time, it measures the voltage across the battery terminals AND it applies a variable load across the battery, so that the amps drawn from the battery can be increased and monitored while also monitoring the battery volts. An example would be, if your battery is rated at 600 Cold Cranking Amps, as the variable load is applied and increased across the battery, the amp meter will rise and the volt meter will start to drop, the amps should be 300 amps or more when the voltmeter gets down to 9 1/2 volts. This has to be done fairly quickly, because the heavy amperage can quickly overheat the wiring and battery. There are also several electronic type of battery testers. If the battery tests low, then it is time to replace the battery, even if the vehicle is cranking ok at the present time, because batteries have a way of going dead when you need them the most.
4. Recommendation - If testing determines that you need to replace the battery, buy the largest capacity battery that you can get or afford. The physical size of the battery is determined by the GROUP NUMBER size. You need to buy the same GROUP NUMBER (same physical size), but if you have a choice between a standard duty verses a heavy duty, buy the heavy duty, and if you have a choice between a 600CCA and a 800CCA, buy the 800CCA or largest CCA capacity that you can.
Good Luck,
E. D. in Sunny Florida
I have also read that the ball joints, themselves, cannot be replaced and the entire control arm mus be replaced. I find this hard to believe.
Any help and.or direction would be greatly appreciated.
From a website:
A P0302 code means that the the car's computer has detected that one of the engine's cylinders is not firing properly. In this case it's cylinder #2.
A code P0302 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Faulty spark plug or wire
Faulty coil (pack)
Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
Faulty fuel injector
Burned exhaust valve
Faulty catalytic converter(s)
Running out of fuel
Poor compression
Defective computer
Possible SolutionsIf there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors.
My Comments:
I would pull all the plugs and take a good look at them, note the color of the innner ceramic insulator and gap. The ceramic insulator should be a light tan color to light brown. Dark colors means that cylinder is not firing well, which could be due to the spark plug wire bad, coil bad, injector bad, clogged or dirty, oil flouling, ect. If you find one or more dark plugs, investigate everything associated with that cylinder, and gap all plugs, replace plugs if needed, replace wires if needed. Also check for air leaks, as an air leak can cause the engine to run rough and die. Check the Air bypass valve located near the throttle body, it has two wires going to it, sometimes they get clogged and stick and let too much air in at idle. Cleaning them will fix them most of the time, otherwise replace.
Will your engine run OK if you rev it up? If so, it may be an Idle problem realated to an air leak, egr valve, Air bypass valve, etc. It the engine runs rough at idle and rough at speeds over 1500 rpm, it could be an ignition or injector problem.
E.D.
1) Lift gate won't open & door ajar light on all of the time. Checked the latches (when I still could open it), one is sticking a little but doesn't seem to be causing the problem. Have oiled it and still doesn't help. But I seen something earlier in the forum saying something about a crack under the window?!? Where exactly? What can be done about this?
2) Stalling. Highway or city. Short trip (15 minutes) or long trip (an hour). Anytime. Last summer it started. Live in Kansas...HOT summers. 90-100 degrees F. Took to 2 shops (one a Ford dealer). No coding out of the check engine light. No one could recreate it, therefore not tell us what is wrong. Got a whole tune-up and replacement of fuel filter, fuel lines & pump checked. All ok. Still did it. Googled stalling problems for Explorers and heard of the IAC valve. Replaced that about end of August 08. This spring it started again. Replaced the IAC again. A few people mentioned vapor lock. So we put "Heet" (water remover for the gas tank) in the tank. Still did it after that. And other sites are saying that it is very rare in a fuel injected car nowadays to get vapor lock...An earlier post said "intake gaskets". Is that a real possibility? How easy to fix yourself? Or is it really a job for ASE Mechanics?
Thank you!
It's been off for I guess the past 50 miles. On Saturday I went to get an inspection which includes emmissions and passed. Sure enough it came right back on again the next day.
Along the way, I went to Autozone a couple of times while the light was actually ON, and it read O2 sensor downstream.
I don't know what to make of all this. It passed the emmissions test so could it be the Autozone scan thing is baloney?
for a few months now, we've noticed that there's a rattling noise coming from the engine area when we are stopped and in drive. The noise stops when we shift to neutral or park... but resumes when we move the gear back to drive...
also, something that just developed is severe oversteer (I guess that's the appropriate word). At speeds above 45mph, if we just move the steering wheel a little left or right, it feels like the truck will go out of control.
it's at the dealer right now ( we have 100k warranty).. but they're saying they're not hearing the rattling noise - i'll have to make sure they do b/c if it's the tranny, they need to replace it.
#2 - The steering problem sounds dangerous, any front end shop or alignment shop should be able to figure out what the problem is. It could be ball joints, bushings or steering components. You did not mention if it is 2 wheel drive or 4 wheel drive.
..
Take care,
Bioman
Baudiom
I would appreciate some help, thanks 41Man
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I don't know if this is a vacuum leak under the hood somewhere, or if it is the under the dash door problem. Any help appreciated!
If the above conditions do not apply to your situation. then you may be losing cooling for some other reasons, which could be many. First check to be sure the AC system has the correct refrigerant charge, and check that the refrigerant pressures are correct under all operating conditions. Also check to be sure the condenser coil in front of the radiator is clean and unrestricted, and that the Condenser fan works correctly, pulling plenty of air through the condenser coil. If the refrigerant pressures are found tro be incorrect, they will reveal where the problem lies, as diagnosed by a knowledgable mechanic.