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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • nick_cznick_cz Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a '94 Explorer sport with automatic four wheel drive. It engaged in 4wd earlier this week, but when i tried to take it back out it would not do anything, the lights on the dash and by the buttons are no longer lit up, but its still in 4wd.
    when I push the button, it does nothing, not even a sound from the actuator in the back. Nor do the lights light back up... I checked the fuses and they are all fine, I did both tests on the actuator its self and there is nothing wrong with it. I even tried replacing the push button on the dash with another used button, but still nothing. Does anyone have any ideas? Has this happened to anyone before?
  • jmathis555jmathis555 Member Posts: 4
    Really? No chance she could be a real person experiencing something negative about the 2003 Explorer, same issue as a lot of other people?

    Granted she hasn't been back to check for replies, but sometimes that's how it works with people busy with life. Been there, done that.
    -John
  • jdevoigtjdevoigt Member Posts: 4
    Ok, so I have a 2003 Explorer and I have a BILLION problems with it! I will only name a few of them because I am not a novelist.

    To start, I had to replace the transmission at 72,500 miles! That ended up costing my wife and I $4,500 of which we couldn't afford and that was for a rebuild (I am starting to think that was a little high). Then, we get this huge crack up the back of the Explorer. I kind of anticipated it since I had seen it on many other Explorers before it happened to us. I haven't paid to have that fixed yet because I don't think that I should. Next, the O/D lights kept coming on. Come to find out the rebuilt transmission had problems too! This vehicle belongs in a scrap heap!

    I googled these problems and found that there are lots of people out there with the same ones. I found a websites that was helpful in making me feel like I wasn't alone; Carcomplaints.com.

    Anyone here want to buy a "real nice" piece of scrap metal???
  • acunningham1acunningham1 Member Posts: 13
    Are you kidding...I got one myself but mine is a 2005 Explorer and the transmission went out at 42,000 miles. Not to mention my "leather" seats in the front begin to crack, my DVD player went out and had to replace (no I did not buy the $500 factory replacement), a bracket that holds my visor on the driver's side in place broke and the dealer doesn't sell that piece separately since it has the lighted mirror ($250.00). I bought the vehicle new and have 50,000 miles on it right now. I am holding my breath that nothing else happens. Don't bother to contact Ford because I am sure they already know about the transmission problems, at least from me anyhow. $4,500 is a lot for a rebuild transmission, I paid $2,200.
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Member Posts: 245
    if the crack is right below the liftgate glass take it to a dealer and see if you can get ford to fix it. it is a well documented and common problem, mine was fixed 2x, once in warranty and once out.
  • jdevoigtjdevoigt Member Posts: 4
    I feel embarrassed that I paid that much for the transmission. With all the other problems that I have had to pay to fix, you would think that they wouldn't take FURTHER advantage of me. I didn't really have the option to shop around at the time as I had a family emergency and was trying to take care of it over the phone with the repair shop.

    I wish you better luck than I had for the duration of your relationship with this heap!
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    As best as I can remember, the vacuum line may go to the PCV valve. The PVC is located on top of the engine, in the center, near the firewall. You can't see it, but you can feel the hose and the valve by inserting your hand down between the intake manifold and the firewall (with engine cold). I think that hose from the PCV comes towards the master brake cylinder, but turns with a plastic fitting towards the front of the engine. That plastic fitting may have broke or fell off. You may be able to see the hose or fitting with a small mirror.
    Good Luck,
    E.D.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I have not seen this crack, I had 4 Explorers and never had a crack. What year models does this crack apply to? Could you describe the crack, how big and where?
  • bucanolebucanole Member Posts: 18
    It happens on the 03 and 04's for sure, beyond that I cannot confirm, but it happens right above the rear windshield wiper. It looks like a 2 millimeter wide crack and runs from the top to the bottom of the plastic on the lift gate. It literally just happens one day, you don't have to use the wiper or anything, it just appears. Mine occured in Florida this year over a period of really cold then warm spell.

    For those with the door ajar notification, I appreciate the information, I'm going to try and get into my door panel this weekend. Any suggestions for properly getting the window and door lock control panels off without breaking the plastic clips holding them in place?
  • twincolumnstwincolumns Member Posts: 2
    Saw you comments regarding "power mirror switch". Got one question for you. Can that switch be removed without removing the door panel.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Yes. The last ones I worked on was a 97 and 2000, you can release the electric mirror switch using a thin knife blade, carefully slip it between the top of the switch and the panel and you can push down the retaining clip and the switch will pop out.
    E.D.
  • jdevoigtjdevoigt Member Posts: 4
    Yeah, I have a friend who went through the same problem with the crack, but he said that the dealership refused to fix it. I would be dealing with the same a**holes so I already know that they won't fix mine.

    I am just looking to sell it now.
  • dmt4dmt4 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I just made a dumb mistake. I have a 2004 V8 Ford Explorer Limited Edition. I turned my headlights on because it is drizzling rain and they did not come on automatically. Well since I never manually turn them on and off... I forgot and left them on. They were on for about 40 minutes. The battery died, I got a jump, and am leaving it run for at least a half hour. My question is.... did I kill the battery? Should I go replace it, or do you think I will be okay? Is there any way to tell? Thank you so much for your help!
    Donna
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    1. My question is.... did I kill the battery?
    Answer - This depends on the Age and Capacity of the battery. Compare the battery to a glass of water. The bigger the battery, the more water it holds. It is the same for the battery, the larger it is (more capacity), the more power it holds. As the glass can hold different levels of water, the battery can hold varying levels of power. Only thing is that you can't see the amount of power in the battery, like you can see the water in the glass. The battery capacity is not directly related to the physical size of the battery, it is the RATING of the battery that determines how much power it can hold. There are several terms for battery capacity that may be quite confusing to you, Cold Cranking Amps, Hot Cranking Amps, Reserve Capacity, etc. To compare apples to apples you need to use the same terms when comparing batteries, the Cold Cranking Amps is the oldest and most common, and easiest to understand. So the larger the Cold Cranking Amps, the more powerful the battery. The battery also loses power as it ages, due to chemical breakdown within the battery. Average battery life varies a lot, but 4 to 5 years is about average in normal service. The battery also loses power the more it is charged and discharged, it loses a little bit of life each time it is discharged, therefore a total discharge like you experienced will drain some life from the battery. You can charge it back up, but the amount of available power becomes less after each discharge, so that the power of the battery declines as time and use take there toll. Cold weather also weakens a battery.

    2. Should I go replace it?
    Answer - Maybe, depending on how much power is left in the battery.

    3. Is there any way to tell?
    Answer - Yes, the battery can be tested using a "LOAD TEST". You can take the vehicle to an auto parts store and have them "LOAD TEST" the battery. It is usually done for free, as they are hoping to sell you a battery. BE SURE that they FULLY CHARGE the battery BEFORE the LOAD TEST. Even a good battery will test bad if it is not fully charged. Remember the glass of water? An almost empty glass of water would test low, even if the glass is good. The standard rating for the load test is that the battery is good if it can put out at least HALF of it's COLD CRANKING AMPS rating without dropping below 9 1/2 volts. The LOAD TESTER does two things at the same time, it measures the voltage across the battery terminals AND it applies a variable load across the battery, so that the amps drawn from the battery can be increased and monitored while also monitoring the battery volts. An example would be, if your battery is rated at 600 Cold Cranking Amps, as the variable load is applied and increased across the battery, the amp meter will rise and the volt meter will start to drop, the amps should be 300 amps or more when the voltmeter gets down to 9 1/2 volts. This has to be done fairly quickly, because the heavy amperage can quickly overheat the wiring and battery. There are also several electronic type of battery testers. If the battery tests low, then it is time to replace the battery, even if the vehicle is cranking ok at the present time, because batteries have a way of going dead when you need them the most.

    4. Recommendation - If testing determines that you need to replace the battery, buy the largest capacity battery that you can get or afford. The physical size of the battery is determined by the GROUP NUMBER size. You need to buy the same GROUP NUMBER (same physical size), but if you have a choice between a standard duty verses a heavy duty, buy the heavy duty, and if you have a choice between a 600CCA and a 800CCA, buy the 800CCA or largest CCA capacity that you can.
    Good Luck,
    E. D. in Sunny Florida
  • darralldarrall Member Posts: 1
    WHAT TOOL DO YOU USE TO GET TO THE EGR VALVE ON A 2000 MERCURY MOUNTAINEER,AND WILL IT COME OFF EASY.
  • bullridingfoolbullridingfool Member Posts: 1
    2000 Ford Explorer XLT V8 Torsion bar suspension. Need to replace ball joints, upper and lower. I have been searching for the correct parts. The Ford website indicates that there is only a QTY=1 of Upper Front Ball joints on the vehicle. I searched by VIN and that's what it came up with. I know for a fact that there are two upper front ball joints (Passenger and Driver sides). Am I missing something here?
    I have also read that the ball joints, themselves, cannot be replaced and the entire control arm mus be replaced. I find this hard to believe.
    Any help and.or direction would be greatly appreciated.
  • egyptgerryegyptgerry Member Posts: 22
    I have the v6 but the ball joints are the same i think,the left and right are the same ball joint,Not sure how it says to replace the control arm,is there a nut about 4inches in from the ball jont on the control arm,if there is then you only need to replace the ball joint,Also if there is dont forget to count the turns when taking them of so that when you replace them you dont have to take the truck to have the tracking done,
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    For the upper ball joint the upper control arm and the ball joint has to be replaced. They are an integrated unit. For the lower ball joints you can replace just the ball joint not the entire control arm. The lower control arm and ball joint take must of the weight and abuse.
  • bbelascobbelasco Member Posts: 12
    Hello, I replaced an o2 sensor from a 1998 awd 5.0 befor cat passenger side with an o2 sensor from a ford escape, yes dumb idea. Upon driving i noticed a sulfer smell, only drove it about 5 miles. immediatly replaced it with a new correct one. Rotten egg smell gone, but now car runs rough, what did I screw up? help!
  • swburbguyswburbguy Member Posts: 3
    I cant get my hood to open on my explorer? Anyone have any ideas?
  • swburbguyswburbguy Member Posts: 3
    MY explorer o/d light comes on sometimes. Whats causing this?
  • pfran6078pfran6078 Member Posts: 2
    can anyone tell me on how to replace the pcv valve on a 2000 explorer 5.0 engine
  • wizard43wizard43 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2000 ford explorer,it will start early in the morning run for about 30-40 secs. then dies out and will not run for longer than 3 are 4 secs i changed out the fuel pump and it still does the same thing .ive checked the filter its clear.
  • racheysracheys Member Posts: 3
    I had the same prob with my 91 ,I bought the gear for the front but the back is not available ...you have to replace the whole motor.After thinking about it for a while I had a great idea , why not get epoxy resin and mix it up and use that to replace plastis that crumbles , well I did, both the back windows now work like new and it saved me $150.00
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    See message #6171 for location of the pcv. You can't see it, but you can feel for it, and pull it out, and replace it by feel.
  • wizard43wizard43 Member Posts: 2
    pvc valve is good, got a po320 code from scanner, so im thinking maybe the coil pack is bad since it is distributerless
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    You never said what engine you have, is it a V6 or V8? The problem could be caused by several different things.

    From a website:
    A P0302 code means that the the car's computer has detected that one of the engine's cylinders is not firing properly. In this case it's cylinder #2.
    A code P0302 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
    Faulty spark plug or wire
    Faulty coil (pack)
    Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
    Faulty fuel injector
    Burned exhaust valve
    Faulty catalytic converter(s)
    Running out of fuel
    Poor compression
    Defective computer
    Possible SolutionsIf there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
    If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors.

    My Comments:
    I would pull all the plugs and take a good look at them, note the color of the innner ceramic insulator and gap. The ceramic insulator should be a light tan color to light brown. Dark colors means that cylinder is not firing well, which could be due to the spark plug wire bad, coil bad, injector bad, clogged or dirty, oil flouling, ect. If you find one or more dark plugs, investigate everything associated with that cylinder, and gap all plugs, replace plugs if needed, replace wires if needed. Also check for air leaks, as an air leak can cause the engine to run rough and die. Check the Air bypass valve located near the throttle body, it has two wires going to it, sometimes they get clogged and stick and let too much air in at idle. Cleaning them will fix them most of the time, otherwise replace.
    Will your engine run OK if you rev it up? If so, it may be an Idle problem realated to an air leak, egr valve, Air bypass valve, etc. It the engine runs rough at idle and rough at speeds over 1500 rpm, it could be an ignition or injector problem.
    E.D.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,250
    it '02 through '05. rear liftgate was redesigned for '06.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • bludragon817bludragon817 Member Posts: 1
    Hi all! New here. Got a couple things. 2001 Ford Explorer SOHC 4.0 V-6. 55K. Owned 1 1/2 yrs. One minor problem that we can live with (#1), and one that we can't (#2). We love the vehicle...we just don't want to die in it....or kill someone else because of it....

    1) Lift gate won't open & door ajar light on all of the time. Checked the latches (when I still could open it), one is sticking a little but doesn't seem to be causing the problem. Have oiled it and still doesn't help. But I seen something earlier in the forum saying something about a crack under the window?!? Where exactly? What can be done about this?

    2) Stalling. Highway or city. Short trip (15 minutes) or long trip (an hour). Anytime. Last summer it started. Live in Kansas...HOT summers. 90-100 degrees F. Took to 2 shops (one a Ford dealer). No coding out of the check engine light. No one could recreate it, therefore not tell us what is wrong. Got a whole tune-up and replacement of fuel filter, fuel lines & pump checked. All ok. Still did it. Googled stalling problems for Explorers and heard of the IAC valve. Replaced that about end of August 08. This spring it started again. Replaced the IAC again. A few people mentioned vapor lock. So we put "Heet" (water remover for the gas tank) in the tank. Still did it after that. And other sites are saying that it is very rare in a fuel injected car nowadays to get vapor lock...An earlier post said "intake gaskets". Is that a real possibility? How easy to fix yourself? Or is it really a job for ASE Mechanics?

    Thank you!
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Member Posts: 56
    I have a Check Engine light that comes on and off for months now on my '98 Explorer (V6 SOHC w/ 127k miles).

    It's been off for I guess the past 50 miles. On Saturday I went to get an inspection which includes emmissions and passed. Sure enough it came right back on again the next day.

    Along the way, I went to Autozone a couple of times while the light was actually ON, and it read O2 sensor downstream.

    I don't know what to make of all this. It passed the emmissions test so could it be the Autozone scan thing is baloney?
  • rphelanrphelan Member Posts: 3
    2003 Explorer bigger V6, 86k miles.

    for a few months now, we've noticed that there's a rattling noise coming from the engine area when we are stopped and in drive. The noise stops when we shift to neutral or park... but resumes when we move the gear back to drive...

    also, something that just developed is severe oversteer (I guess that's the appropriate word). At speeds above 45mph, if we just move the steering wheel a little left or right, it feels like the truck will go out of control.

    it's at the dealer right now ( we have 100k warranty).. but they're saying they're not hearing the rattling noise - i'll have to make sure they do b/c if it's the tranny, they need to replace it.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    The autozone machine simply reads what your computer says. Your computer is the baloney.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    #1 - I assume the rattle goes away or lessens as you drive down the road. Does it sound like tin rattling? If so, there is a loose part that is vibrating, most likely a loose heat shield somewhere on the exhaust system. Loose heat shields on the cat converters are common. You can get them spot welded back on at any muffler shop, or you can tightly tie a stiff wire around the part to keep it from rattling (coat hanger wire is good for this, but the welding is a much better and permanent repair).

    #2 - The steering problem sounds dangerous, any front end shop or alignment shop should be able to figure out what the problem is. It could be ball joints, bushings or steering components. You did not mention if it is 2 wheel drive or 4 wheel drive.
  • dgivhandgivhan Member Posts: 1
    My ford explorer runs great however the o/d light keeps blinking off and on....it blinks o/d off

    ..
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    For 9.5 years I have been a regular participant in this discussion group. Next week we will be picking up our new Prius and our 99 Explorer will be moving to another family. Thanks for the all the input that made me a better shade tree mechanic for my Explorer. After an initial rocky start the Explorer became a very reliable, family workhorse. It is in great shape so I have no problem selling it to a neighbor. It certainly does not qualify for the new Clunker Program.

    Take care,

    Bioman
  • baudiombaudiom Member Posts: 1
    trying to pull the rear shock on a rusted 96 explorer. Used a bit pf PB blaster and went at the bottom bolt. The nut sheered off like the bolt was made of butter. Now the bolt turns in place but I cant get it out. Have tried a small jack between the frame and axel to relieve the pressure, Pounding the bolt thru with a smaller bolt and hammer, I cant even get a screwdriver blade under the bolt head to pry it out. what shall I try next??

    Baudiom
  • carein4carein4 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the exact same issue...did this work for you? thx...
  • grip205grip205 Member Posts: 1
    I am interested in learning how to take out and replace the passenger side rear window. Please help!
  • austinc11austinc11 Member Posts: 1
    We just got an '03 explorer into our shop to scan for ABS codes. It gave us a Speed Sensor code (C1235) and an undocumented code (16945). The undocumented code doesnt show up on any of our databases and I was wondering if anyone else has seen this code before and if they have, what is it for
  • 41man41man Member Posts: 1
    Hi first post, I have a 94 Expl. with a 4ltr. V6 and just when I go up hill and acceleration slightly my engine light comes on but goes off after I top the hill. If my air cond. is on it makes it worse, stays on longer. On quick accel. it does not do it.
    I would appreciate some help, thanks 41Man
  • falkfamfalkfam Member Posts: 2
    I hope someone can help me out. I am new and have never posted before. To start out I recently took off and cleaned the idle air control valve, because my car is making a horrible groaning/gurgling loud sound, and also intermidently idling ruff. I thought it helped at first but now the sound is worse than ever. I am going to order a new iac, and put it on for this problem. In the process of trying to get this fixed my car has started making a clanking/tapping sound in what seems to be the bottom area of the engine. Only when the AC is running. Not when just the blower is on, but the actual AC has to be on for the noise to start. It is constant, and loud. I got under the car and it sounds loudest at the bottom/back area of the engine. When I turn off the AC it stops. I still hear that groaning sound although it is much worse when the ac is on also. Could it be a pulley, or belt? Any ideas are greatly appreciated.
  • witchywoman4uwitchywoman4u Member Posts: 4
    Does anyone know how to disconnect the left rear emergency/parking brake cable from the front cable on a 2001 Ford Sport Trac? My rear cable coating got worn through so it is rusted and not working properly (won't release the parking brake) hence the replacement but I cannot figure out how to disconnect the two cables.
  • witchywoman4uwitchywoman4u Member Posts: 4
    I have had individual instrument panel lights going out, about one every couple of months. Does anyone have an easy way to replace these bulbs?
  • witchywoman4uwitchywoman4u Member Posts: 4
    My check engine light has been on for years on my 2001 Sport Trac! I have had it diagnosed (read the code) which indicated a fuel injection issue which I was told could mean a fuel injection head is clogged. The light was then turned off by the technician but came right back in the same day. The truck runs fine. Does anyone know how I can get it turned off for good?
  • witchywoman4uwitchywoman4u Member Posts: 4
    My 2001 Sport Trac engine seems to lurch slightly while sitting at a red light/idling. You can feel it as well as hear it. Any idea what can cause this and how I can fix it?
  • dobbsadobbsa Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1998 Ford Explorer. The A/C works fine at idle up to moderate speeds. Once it is at highway speeds, then the A/C turns warm. When I slow down the A/C gets cold again.

    I don't know if this is a vacuum leak under the hood somewhere, or if it is the under the dash door problem. Any help appreciated!
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    The check engine light comes back on because the problem is not fixed. To stop the light from coming back on, have the mechanic fix the problem.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    This is most likely the result of the engine running rough, probably due to the problem with the fuel injector and the check engine light.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    If the AC loses control system vacuum, in AC mode the interior discharge air will be diverted from the dash vents, and the cold air will blow out of the defrost discharge vents and/or the heater discharge vents. Check to be sure that the interior discharge air is blowing out at some point inside the vehicle. Look and observe if the air blowing out in the wrong place is what is happening in your case. If so, the vacuum could be lost at a connection under the hood or under the dash. Sometimes this vacuum leak can be heard as a hissing sound. I would listen for it while you are driving.
    If the above conditions do not apply to your situation. then you may be losing cooling for some other reasons, which could be many. First check to be sure the AC system has the correct refrigerant charge, and check that the refrigerant pressures are correct under all operating conditions. Also check to be sure the condenser coil in front of the radiator is clean and unrestricted, and that the Condenser fan works correctly, pulling plenty of air through the condenser coil. If the refrigerant pressures are found tro be incorrect, they will reveal where the problem lies, as diagnosed by a knowledgable mechanic.
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