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Toyota Highlander

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Comments

  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    My advice is; do what your manual calls for. The engineers who build your car know best what the weaknesses are - and though normally, a car with 30,000 miles is just broken in and needs nothing but oil changes, there may be a particular weakness or condition in that motor that ages your coolant earlier than most. Perhaps it's subject to clogging or something - who knows. Anyway, I'd do what the manual says to do. Always. :surprise:
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    Interesting. We have a 2004 and the interval is 10 years or 100,000 miles. They must have made a radical change in the coolant.
  • nimrod99nimrod99 Member Posts: 343
    Long life coolant is silicate free.
    It's cheap insurance to change the coolant every 2 years or 30,000
    also change the thermostat while you are at it
    Changing the coolant with the good stuff (silicate free)
    It will increase the life of the water pump and protect the metal parts in the cooling circuit and allow better cooling efficiency
  • smallvsmallv Member Posts: 5
    I had the same problem which the dealer fixed completely under extended warranty.

    The job was valued at over $5000. (3600 on extended warrantee, the rest on regular warantee. I did have to pay $50 for half of a 4 wheel alignment

    They found the rear bushings were worn out. This was causing rear end sway plus noise over bumps and excessive tire wear on the edges.

    To replace the businings, the had to replace both swing arms assemblies which also include the bearings for the rear wheels. The springs were sagging so they replaced them also. The net effect was an entirely new rear suspension for free. The car is 2003. The work was performed 2008.

    Previoulsy I had another $3000 of waranty work done on the front end including new stabilizer bar mounts, and at least one new bearing.

    The trick is finding a dealer who is hungry for the business. Some just don't care. When I first had undercarage noise with the highlander, I took it to the dealership that sold me the car. They told me they were going to have to do a diagnostic and road test (at my expense) before they would tell me if the work was under warrantee.

    Next I took the car to another dealership closer to where I work. They were happy to undertake a comprehensive warrante repair. They are a somewhat remote from the city core and hence eager to go the extra mile.

    One more thing to keep in mind. The parts took a long time to get and I had to do without the highlander for more than two-weeks.

    Its important to get these things done under warrantee becasue after the warrantee is up, it would cost less to scrap the car and buy a new one
  • jackmick656jackmick656 Member Posts: 61
    Has anyone ever re-torqued the drive shaft bolt on a HL? If so was it necessary, thanks.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    The only procedure I could think of would be to fully loosen and then retorque to specs. USELESS procedure IMMHO. My 2001 AWD RX300 calls for that and has ~70,000 miles....

    Since most owners will not own a torque wrench this is most likely simply a way to get you to "visit" the dealer.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    I had the dealer do it at 15,000 miles since it was in the scheduled maintenance. I have no idea if it was necessary or not but since Toyota recommends it every 15,000 miles, I will probably continue to have it done. I have a torque wrench but no good way to lift the vehicle up and support it.
  • nimrod99nimrod99 Member Posts: 343
    I never did it, and my HL went 121,000 miles without a problem.

    They only suggest doing it if you drive under the "severe" classification.

    I would not recomment loosening then re-torquing.
    If it aint broke, don't fix it.
  • jackmick656jackmick656 Member Posts: 61
    Thanks for all the input.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    Dad traded his 6 cylinder for a leftover 07 (old style) HL. Its automatic, AWD and 4 cylinder. He says it peppy but he only gets 20mpg on the highway! I said this can't be right. The dealer says they may need to reprogram the computer...HUH? Anyone ever hear of this? Anyone with any real world mpg with this model HL?
  • nimrod99nimrod99 Member Posts: 343
    my 2003 V6 HL averaged about 20 mpg (mixed commute / freeway)
    If I drove freeway only at 80-85 mph, it would get 21 mpg

    my new 08 HL gets 21 in mixed drving and 23 on the freeway
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    shouldn't the 4 cylinder do better....btw, his old 6 cylinder did better...what gives here?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Generally, that is the accepted theory - but it is possible under certain driving conditions especially, for the 6 to exceed the mileage in the 4 cylinder. The weight and drag co-efficient are more determinant of the gas needed to move the mass, than the number of cylinders doing it. Again, especially under certain driving conditions.
  • typesixtypesix Member Posts: 321
    I have 2004 4 cyl 2wd Highlander rated 27 mpg on highway and have no problem getting that figure at 65-70 mph. Believe the 2007 awd 4cyl is rated at 25 mpg, if he's doing very fast speeds, no 25 mpg is possible.
  • jackmick656jackmick656 Member Posts: 61
    I have never used the spare tire on my 03 HL and I am ready for a set of tires. My question is, can I buy three new Integtity tires and use my spare as the fourth tire? I am concerned about deterioration of the spare over the last five years. Any replies would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    I plan on doing exactly that as well. We had to replace a flat tire a couple years ago so I left that one as the spare. Now I need new tires so I'll just buy 3 more of the exact kind.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    I have read the Ford is recommending that tires be replaced after 6 years regardless of mileage. I think the tire companies have similar recommendations. You can probably find more info via a Google search.

    I personally wouldn't put a 5 year old tire on one of the driving wheels. I'd keep it as the spare.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Haven't heard the latest but....

    "Safety advocates have urged NHTSA to set tire expiration dates -- and NHTSA is yet to rule on those. Sean Kane, president of Safety Research & Strategies, submitted details Wednesday of 108 accidents linked to tread separation of tires more than 6 years old that resulted in 85 deaths."

    circlew, "BMW 3-Series Run Flat Tires" #694, 25 Dec 2006 7:58 am
  • jackmick656jackmick656 Member Posts: 61
    Thanks for the input, gives me a lot to think about. I will probably keep the spare where it is and buy 4 new tires. Any suggestions on tire selection. I live in the low desert of So Cal where the average summer temp is 106 degrees and we see rain maybe twice a year. Thanks again.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    He's no Mario Andretti! He does have AWD and I guess that dramatically impacts mpg...thought we get 25 highway with our AWD 2006 RAV. Dad feels the vehicle weighs too much for the engine. The service dept now says there is nothing to adjust and that winter gass adititves are probably killing the mpg...should see improvement over the summer. Who Knows!
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    Check out Tirerack.com for reviews of tires in the size you need. Sounds like you don't need to worry about snow traction like us poor suckers in the midwest. ;)
  • typesixtypesix Member Posts: 321
    4 cyl AWD also has different gearing than 2wd, the AWD version spins engine faster at highway speeds.
  • jackmick656jackmick656 Member Posts: 61
    Checked the tran fluid for the first time in years., ( 03 V6 HL 33,500 miles ) and the fluid color was mud brown in color. So to be on the safe side I took the HL to the local Toyota dealer and had the tranny flushed for $149 and had the radiator flushed fot $99. I plan to keep the Vehicle for at least 10 years so I guess it is time to start pumping $ into her. This is the first $ I have had to spend outside of oil changes and filters. Tires next.
  • staygoodstaygood Member Posts: 5
    Finally determined that fuses for the three power outlets are in the fuse box under the dash. The 10 amp fuse is for the outlet on the "dash" (Outlet No. 1) and the 20 amp fuse is for the outlet on the console (outlet No. 2) plus the outlet in the cargo compartment. Still do not know what the fuse in the engine compartment marked "P/Outlet" is for. Plan to visit the Toyota dealer in Augusta, GA, tomorrow and ask.

    I am hoping to provide 12 volts to the cargo area power outlet full time, but need to understand the wiring first. None of the wiring in the compartment in the left rear is "hot" with the ignition switch off.
  • loadlorloadlor Member Posts: 3
    Did you ever find out the problem w/ your HL ? I have the same vehicle and problem. Around 72,000 miles Toyota did a 'goodwill' fix. (extended warranty was up at 70,000 and in April). Noticed oil consumption problem in May. Had an oil chg Feb 2007. Early April it was the PCV valve and then more issues after that. Finally Sept 2007 they told me they were going to re-build the engine. I thought they did it, but now that the same issue is occuring at 82,000 miles, I find out that they just re-rung the rings in the cylinders. I've had 4 more monitoring checks with various oil usage. Researching a little on the internet and monitoring where, how fast and far I go, it is at 65 mph plus and hour or longer trips that it consumes oil. All in town driving is fine. Toyota said I never had an oil sludge problem.
    Right now they said if it is the #2 cylinder ring, they would cover it. If not, I would have to cover the repair since it was a 'goodwill' fix. I've done all the maintenance and was planning on keeping it for 13 - 15yrs. (I had my Honda Accord for 13.5 yrs
    and never had any issue except upkeep maintenance) I feel as if they should fix it since there are problems out there and they didn't fix it right the first time - even thou it was done as 'goodwill'. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

    loadlor
  • jackmick656jackmick656 Member Posts: 61
    A "Goodwill repair" is exactly that, a one time evaluation and attempt to resolve a problem. Toyota is not liable after the repair is completed unless the vehicle is still under warranty. I went through the same problem with Nissan Corp.on a vibration problem on a 1994 Maxima. The problem was never resolved, no matter how many phone calls I made to customer service. The best advice I can give to you is be persistent with customer service if you still feel strongly about your problem. If they wont budge, unload the vehicle, preferably to a Toyota dealer. That puts the problem back in Toyota's lap.
  • ragsnyragsny Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 highlander 6cyl w/3rd row, the book says that it has the wiring for a trailor tucked under the body bumber, does anyone know where exactly this wiring is, if it does exist.
  • mdewitt23mdewitt23 Member Posts: 2
    My wife and I just bought a new highlander with XM in it, and we are both Sirius subscribers. I was told there was nothing they could do since it was factory installed, but I have a hard time buying that- is that true? Thanks.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    I also prefer Sirius - but at this time, I know of no patch to let you have one over the other that is factory installed.
  • dawellsdawells Member Posts: 1
    My wife drives a 2003 highlander and recently while getting the car serviced the mechanic advised her to have the timing belt changed. The car has been driven 66,000 miles and typically the belt would be replaced at 90,000. The mechanic said that because the car is five years old there is a possibility that the belt has become cracked. Accepting comments on whether this is a scare tactic to drum up business or does in fact the age of the belt make a difference! Thanks.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Check your owner's manual. Any time and mileage issues should be listed there. My 99 Honda CRV was 7 yrs or 105K miles.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Scare tactic, pure and simple.

    My '92 LS400 now has 162,000 miles....

    I'll be sure and post when the belt fails, if........
  • irishcaseyirishcasey Member Posts: 36
    I have an 02 HL V6 AWD 90K miles. Always serviced at dealer with shorter than recommended intervals. Hopefully someone can help with this problem.

    Last Spring CEL comes on. Check oil, level is low. Add oil. Continue checking oil and note continued consumption. Discussed with dealer and they top off oil and I bring back twice. After 500 miles oil is 1 quart low. Next time after 900 miles oil is almost 2 quarts low. Dealer agrees oil comsumption problem.

    Also, have intermittent exhaust smoke on startup.

    I'm aware of and have the paperwork for the oil sludge settlement of which my HL is covered. Make my case to the dealer that blue smoke and oil consumption is cover under this settlement. They remove valve cover ($125)and say no sludge problem therefore not covered under the settlement. Dealer says must be something else. SA tells me $5K to rebuild engine if that is the problem.

    I call number on settlement paperwork (Toyota corporate), give them details. They have dealer SA call me back and say they need to again remove the valve cover to determine the problem (another $125). He says that they may have to do some type of pressure test, doesn't give cost. He also says that if problem is valve guide the cost is all mine. If the problem is bad rings, Toyota will share in the cost, whatever that means.

    If anyone can provide any input/advice on this topic it would be greatly appreciated. I know very little about engines.

    Also, I read on Edmunds (post 10840) that a clogged PCV valve could cause excessive oil consumption. That's apparently a $10 item. Can anyone verify if this could be the problem.

    Does anyone know the cost to repair valve guides or the cost to repair bad rings?

    thanks in advance for any solutions!!
  • ricdobricdob Member Posts: 4
    yes, I had a similar prob with my 01 HL, oil consumption mostly at high rpms, at 50K. Bought it to the dealer, replaced the PCV valve, took a 1000 mile trip, didnt use a drop of oil. Not one message in the owners manual or service guide about when to change the pcv valve.
  • irishcaseyirishcasey Member Posts: 36
    Ricdob - Thanks for your reply on the PCV valve. I will definitely go that direction first before the more expensive routes. Thanks again!!
  • ecotrklvrecotrklvr Member Posts: 519
    I too have seen a plugged PCV System allow the crankcase to pressurize and push oil into the combustion chambers. It's so easy to replace, and inexpensive. I'd also like to suggest you get the part from the Toyota dealer. Aftermarket ones may be cheaper, but seem to have way more plastic to them.

    Good luck.
  • ericdbericdb Member Posts: 4
    I just got a T HL 2004 and the left break lights don't work,
    I checked the light bulbs and they are fine, I checked the fuses and they are fine, the lights works fine but when ever I put my foot on the breaks the right side break lights comes on but not the left once.
    First I thought it must have some sort of circuit board because I can only see cables come in on one place and the electricity must be distributed from there but I called Toyota and they said it didn't have a circuit at all. So now I'm confused, why would I get the regular lights to come on but not the break lights and only one the left side.

    EdB
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    Swap the left side brake light bulb with the right and see if the problem moves to the other side. If not, then it's got to be in the wiring.
  • phrosutphrosut Member Posts: 122
    In other cars this malfunction is often caused by a defective turn signal switch. The brake light signal must pass through it so that the turn signal overides the brake on lighting the bulb. You might try messing with the turn signal while applying the brakes and having a friend watch the light.

    Phil
  • ericdbericdb Member Posts: 4
    Never thought of that, I will definitely try that and see if that helps.
    Thanks for the info..
    Eric
  • ericdbericdb Member Posts: 4
    I didn't have tro try it, today when I came out one of the bulbs was working and the other one had gone bad so I replaced the one that was burned and now it works fine again..I have no clue why but it works :-).. Thanks for your input though..
    E
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Sorry to say, but it sounds as if you were the victim of Mr Ohm. He sneaks in and causes resistance in electrical connections in wiring and especially in the light bulb socket contacts. He is sometimes shy, and can be chased away by a vibration. Other times he becomes quite bold, and is hard to eliminate. He is very good at hiding. Often a good WHACK will get rid of him!
  • ericdbericdb Member Posts: 4
    :-) well Mr Ohm went away with getting a new bulb in and I hope he stays away LOL..
  • montanamike2montanamike2 Member Posts: 1
    chadhburke - you are exactly right. I fixed my 2001 HL (finally). There are two metal slats along the edges of the windshield next to the pillars. There is a gap or channel between the slats (mine are black strips of metal) and the windshield itself that you can stick the end of a phillips head screwdriver (or a pencil) into, Wind catches this channel and causes the whistle. Enter Lowes! I bought a bag of foam rope. It's called Backer Rod and is found in the weatherstripping section. About $4 for 20 ft. Get the 1/2" size. # 71480. It worked great. Just force it into the gap between the windshield and the molding strip. It will stay there on its own. Wala - whistle gone!
  • djernigandjernigan Member Posts: 1
    I want to add XM Radio and control it through the Radio, does anyone know if its possiaple. If so what do I need?
  • steves_toyosteves_toyo Member Posts: 9
    Has the solution that you posted, PCV valve replacement, still been working for you? Or have you had to do anything else since you last posted your message in Oct. of 2007? I have a 2002 highlander that is consuming oil only at highway speeds. Approximately 2 quarts every 250 miles at rpm's of 3000 and approximately 75 mph. It does not do this with city driving. Thanks.
  • ricdobricdob Member Posts: 4
    I have since switched to synthetic oil. I checked the oil this morning with about 5000 miles of a good mix of highway and city driving and I am down less than half a quart, which I think is great for a vehicle at 55,000 miles. No service since the PCV replacement!
  • loadlorloadlor Member Posts: 3
    Replacing the PCV did not fix my oil consumption problem at highway speeds. It still consumed a lot of oil when I drove 70 mph over a period of time. I had no problems with city driving or short highway trips.

    I did have to have some valve covers replaced and cleaned. I would have to relook at my paperwork to see what they actually did. I took it on a short trip and didn't notice any problems after that.

    During my test drives I drove from Minneapolis to Des Moines and back. I have not driven it down there in the last year or so to check on oil consumption.

    Hope this helps you.
  • steves_toyosteves_toyo Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for the feedback. The work that you had done, valve covers replaced, etc., was that done under warranty or under that class action settlement that Toyota has for oil sludge? And if so, did you have to produce all your oil change records before they would do the work?
    Thanks!
  • ricdobricdob Member Posts: 4
    I have a 01 V6, 55000 miles. Through the forum, I learned that I needed an O2 sensor when the VSC and Engine light went on. Engine light went off, but VSC still on. I know I can do without VSC, but if the repair was reasonable, I'd like to have the work done. Anyone know what the warning light entails?

    thanks
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