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Ford F-Series Computer Problems

I am interested to ask other professionals that know these ford vehicles very well.

Is there one or more of you Techs that can tell me if it is possible to:

Accessing the Codes in Ford vehicles by shorting the connectors?

I know in the GM's you can short a and b and pull the codes which is the most common that I have in my shop other than the foreign vehicles.

If I may be of assistance to you please let me know and I will respond as soon as possible.

Thanks Again


  • I am looking for a head (Power Improved) XL3E series for the 5.4l engine.
  • I am interested in finding a used scanner if anyone has one.

    Thanks Friends
  • ford12ford12 Posts: 1
    what year is the ford ? what year is the gm
  • Have 2001 F350 diesel. Problem started with wipers going on even when switch off and key removed.Problem went away on own. Now, when driving, the transmission stops, engine stays running though, truck just doesn't move. Shut truck off wait a bit restart and goes fine. Is this some sort of electrical short? Computer glitch? Dealer wants $1500 to look at transmission, but works fine when it starts and re :confuse: starts so do not believe that is the problem Any suggestions?
  • tybeetybee Posts: 2
    Engine started skipping. Took to mechanic. Mec. replaced computer. Truck runs worse. Took to new mec. Mec. says wrong computer installed. Must have old computer to match. Old computer thrown away. Any ideas? please , desperate.
  • emtdawnemtdawn Posts: 26
    Just about any Napa, Advanced Auto, Auto Zone will sell you the key to access codes for year, make and model car you need it for.
  • Everytime it rains, my A/C, radio, key in ignition chime and a few other things come on when I'm not even in truck. The wireless remotes quit working as well. I'm sure it's condensation in a box but which one and where is it located?
  • It may be worse than condensation. I betcha you've got a leak somewhere around the windshield that's coming down behind the dashboard and affecting your electronics. Unfortunately, things won't get any better, over time corrosion will set in and you'll be seeing things alot more troublesome than your current electrical gremlins.

    I'd get under the dash with a strong lamp and start looking for evidence of water intrusion. Hopefully you can find it without too much trouble. Unfortunately leaks are sometimes a real SOB to find. (Pull back the carpet too, you'll probably find it's all wet behind it.) Hopefully your electromics will recover once you find the water source, and you don't need to repair a bunch of different things. :( :(
  • Hi,

    I just bought a F-250 crew cab and need to modify 2 things:

    1- Is there a way I could replace the headlights to
    give it a different look ?

    2- Can I purchase the computer used to modify the
    truck's parameters as I need to reprogram the tire
    size from 20 inches to 17 for the winter season.

  • I bought vehicle used with 140,000km. I use it to tow a 5th wheel RV. On several occasions now, after towing for a while, when climbing a steep grade, there is an intermittent growl coming from the engine compartment. The power drops and I notice black smoke coming from the exhaust. The growl almost sounds like a bearing that is failing. Once the grade has been climbed, the engine seems to run normally. I would like to have some idea of what the problem may be before I take it to a deisel mechanic. Any ideas??? Thanks
  • Does the engine have any mods? Chip? Propane? If so, it could be running too hot and causing the problems you mention. Could be that you're pushing the engine too hard pulling that heavy trailer up a steep grade and your turbo's getting too hot. If your exhaust temperatures go above about ~1200-1300 F, and stay there for any period of time, you could be courting problems - like turbo bearing failure. ($$$) If engine is stock, then I think the design normally prevents you from overheating things - you just run outta power well before things get too hot. You'd have to really beat on it for quite a while before the turbo gets too hot. (If you're stock, I'd see the mechanic, 'cause it seems like you may have some sort of cooling problem.) If you've got mods, then the equation changes, you've got the power to charge up those big hills and the exhaust gas temperatures can exceed the safe limit.

    Does the truck have a Pyromter? That's a gauge that measures the temperature of the exhaust gasses as they come outta the turbocharger. As you climb a hill, watch the pyrometer, if your exhaust gas temp starts to climb quickly and goes over ~1200-1300, you need to back off on the go pedal and allow the thing to cool. You may have to go up the hill slower, but it'll save you expensive repairs.
    You may have problems in the offing; that growling sound seems kinda ominous to me.
  • Our 1994 F350 7.3 liter is experiencing wiper issues. The wipers work on one speed only and if the washer button is depressed the wipers will not shut off until we turn the key off. We have changed the WCM (washer control module) and the problem still exists. We expect that it has a govenor for the delay but cannot find location - anyone have suggestion? :confuse: "> Thanks!
  • my f450 just died on me,i have changed the fuel pump,computer,vavlepan gaskets,glow plugs and the injector control module and the truck still would not start.the diagnostic machine does not give me any codes.can someone please help.
  • Same problem with my 1992 f-150... need resolution..

  • I have a 96 that did tne same thing. No codes would not run. Stopped on the freeway. Broken or cracked oil pickup in the pan. The bad news. You have to pull the engine to fix it. I hope this helps
  • My truck wouldn't crank just turned over replaced fuel pump and filter. Ran fine from Louisiana to Georgia. Nextday it wouldn't crank checked and was not getting no fuel through the filter. Checked relays and fuses then later a friend came by and it cranked right up. The next day it wouldn't crank again so we replaced the fuel pump with another. Still nothing. The tester says we are getting only 6 volts to the pump and we are supposed to be getting 12 he said. Someone told him how to jump the fuel pump to see if it was working with the wire harness that was there and it worked fine so now this person is saying that the PCM (Computer) is the problem. I don't know what to do replace the PCM or what. Before all of this truck was missing and shop put it on machine and the #4 plug and coil was replaced no the unit that is in my truck where the shop is supposed to hook machine up to does not work and some one is telling me that could be part of the computer problem to. PLEASE HELP ME I DON"T KNOW WHAT TO DO OR WHAT IS WRONG JUST KNOW I DON"T HAVE 85 AN HOUR TO PAY A SHOP
  • I have a 2001 ford f-150 and it is doing the same thing as mlissa402 is doing can anyone tell me what is wrong with it. It will turn over but it won't start. I got it started twice then turn it off to see if it would start again and it would turn over but not start. I would appereciate it if someone could tell me the problem
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    Did you check the inertial fuel cutoff switch?

  • tybeetybee Posts: 2
    Mark, where is it ? I have a '90 F-150, 300 ci. six. Have had it for years. Recently having awful, awful problem with fuel delivery, sporatically bogging down/dying. Otherwise, runs like race horse, nine miles in ten. Have had massive garage bills between the three reputable garages I've grown to dislike very much. I don't know if the item you're referring to is on my truck, but its the first time I've heard mention of it. Otherwise, everything else has been replaced, much to my shagrin. Please help if you can.
  • no i have never heard of it can you tell me where it is located on the truck is it the shut off switch
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