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GMC Jimmy Starting and Stalling Problems

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Comments

  • wljlds2wljlds2 Member Posts: 14
    Does it stall frequently? Does it die at stops or letting off the gas? Does it smell like it is running rich? If your answer is yes, then I would start here. You may want to review post #99 from me. Then if need be, pull off the cover on the upper plenum and remove the tuning port and look inside for gas? The spider/injector/regulator is one unit and is non-serviceable (must be replaced as one unit $$$$$$). The Fuel line kit can be replaced as a kit if one of the lines are cracked or blown. If this is the case, you are getting gas into your oil as well. There are so many variables to consider with your problem. If your fuel pressure is leaking down fast or is erratic on the gage, you need to consider what I mentioned. There should be no gas of any kind in the plenum and there should be no clean areas like being cleaned with carb cleaner.
  • jamilynn2000jamilynn2000 Member Posts: 6
    At first yes, it was stalling frequently when I came to a stop & let off the gas & it doesn't smell like it's running rich?! NOW....it's stalling only when I turn? It will start right back up but still only when turning. It's been 2 days & it won't start at all (it cranks) unless I try 6-10 times. And as before mentioned it will fire right up late in the day? It's supposed to be towed to another (NUMBER 4) repair shop today & hopefully someone there can figure this out. I'm replacing things as guesses & financially it's just killing me...
  • mechtechmechtech Member Posts: 2
    My 1995 Jimmy was great until I started to have issues with the EGR valve. It would start to run badly and blow black smoke. I would pull the EGR valve and clean the pintle and seat and it would run fine for awhile "maybe 1000 miles" and then it would do it again. Come to find out it was the nut kit leaking gas causing the carbon to get wet in the plenium and then the carbon would bake and get hard, once it hardened it would break off and travel through the manifold to the EGR valve and get caught in the pintle causing the motor to have a direct vacume leak. I replaced the fuel lines comming into the manifold "nut kit" and also pulled the manifold off and cleaned all of the carbon out of it. That semmed to fix that issue. I NEVER replaced the EGR valve. About a month later the I parked the Jimmy for the weekend and didnt't drive it for the entire weekend. On Monday I went to start it and it would crank but not start. I checked the EGR and it was fine. I finaly got it started after I let it set for a full day and it seemed to run fine for the next week. I parked it again the next weekend and it happened again. It would crank a few times and then cough like it was flooded. it would also smell like it was flooded. I checked the schrader valve and it didn't seem to have any fuel pressure. I dont have a gauge to test for fuel pressure but it has a pretty new fuel pump on it so I assumed that it is good. If i let it set for a day or so it will eventually start. I read a document about injectors bleeding back but that didn't seem to fit on this application. I also seen a note about the fuel cap. On a whim I pulled the cap and tried to suck through it. It was very easy to suck air through the cap which was causing the fuel system to lose pressure. Once I put a new fuel cap on it is workin fine now. If I let the truck set it would eventually build up enough pressure to get it started. I hope that this helps someone because you all have helped me plenty..Thanks...
  • ez1969ez1969 Member Posts: 2
    My 2000 Jimmy was starting hard the last couple weeks so I thought I needed a tune up. It would run fine once it started. This weekend I went to start it and it wouldn't. So, I changed the plugs distributor and still nothing. It has spark so I thought no fuel, maybe the fuel pump, but I can hear the pump come on when I turn the key. I'm going to check the pressure tomorrow when I get a guage. Does it sound like the regulator is bad?
  • ez1969ez1969 Member Posts: 2
    OK, I checked the fuel pressure and it read 50psi on the dot. So I figured I'd change the fuel filter to start with and the truck started right up! I checked the fuel pressure again it it still reads 50psi. I thought it had to be at least 60? It seems to run fine. Is there still a problem that might leave me stranded someday? Please help.,,, Thanks.
  • e5husmce5husmc Member Posts: 6
    FOLLOW UP: since my post, I have replaced the fuell pump and inline filter (pump stopped working, had to bang on bottom of tank to make it start pumping). Truck ran fine for a little while. Now it won't start, if you prime it with a little carb cleaner it starts right up and runs fine (no sputtering, no hesitation, no rough idle). Check pressure at test valve 52 psi with key on engine off, stays at 52 psi with engine running. After engine warms up it is still 52 psi but if you shut it off, it now primes to 59 psi and will usually start on it's own. After the engine cools, it only primes to 52 psi again. I'm lost on which direction to go from here, could this be an O2 sensor or something else?
  • jamilynn2000jamilynn2000 Member Posts: 6
    When you replaced the fuel pump, did you put in an OEM pump? I replaced my fuel pump 3 times in 3 wks (2 aftermarket, 1 OEM). After putting in the OEM pump ZERO starting problems. Per the GMC dealer it has to have the OEM pump & read at least 59psi to run properly. Hope this helps!
  • mechtechmechtech Member Posts: 2
    My Jimmy has started to do the crank and not start issue again. If i let it set for even a full day without driving the vehice it will not start. I did not replace the pump with an OEM one. I will check the pressure next to see where I am at there...
  • magnus001magnus001 Member Posts: 1
    EZ1969, I had the same trouble with my 2000 GMC Jimmy.
    Replaced the in-line filter first.no luck... Then the sparkplugs and wire..again no luck...then the distributor cap and rotor..yo guessed it no luck either. Like you I heard the pump come on when the key is inserted...so i dind't even bother to look at that. However, it was the fuel pump of all things.....
    I found out after the vehicle left me stranded.... Save yourself the headaches and replace the fuel pump..Be sure and go with an oem one. Also if your gas cap is still the original one..replace that too... If it's getting old and the seal is no longer tight it will not allow the fuel system to build up pressure normaly.
  • e5husmce5husmc Member Posts: 6
    O.k it turns out the new fuel pump was only putting out 52 psi at the pump, so I took it back and exchanged it (Master E3992M pump from Autozone). New pump works fine so far, trucks starts right up. I hope it lasts. :)
  • bee79bee79 Member Posts: 2
    Hey I'm having the same problem with my 98 Jimmy. It takes me about 15 minutes to start when its cold. When its warm no problem. What did you hear?
  • bee79bee79 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 98 Jimmy 4x4. It starts up just fine when it's warm out. Now that its cold it won't start. After about 30 attempts it will finally start. Once I get it started it drives fine until the next morning. It's starts every other time except in the mornings when it has been sitting all night. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel relay, new battery got the fuel injectors cleaned. What else could it be? Please help im going broke. Thanks! :cry:
  • jamilynn2000jamilynn2000 Member Posts: 6
    Did you put an OEM pump in it? I have had same problem over & over & over again. $2,000+ in the last 3 months. Aftermarket fuel pump, aftermarket plugs, wires, rot, cap, you name it I've done it!! Put OEM pump in and OEM (AC Delco) plugs, cap, rotor etc & runs almost perfectly!!
  • jonnyringjonnyring Member Posts: 74
    STALLING PROBLEM.
    91 Gmc Jimmy s-15, 4.3L throttle-body inj. 2 wd, 152K. Auto.

    Car will start and runs great for 7-10 minutes. Then sputters and dies. Replaced plugs,
    cap, rotor. Pulled in-line fuel line at t-body & it's pumping like crazy. Also...when it
    dies, I can still see fuel squirting into the t-body. After it dies, I check for
    fuel...plenty of fuel & plenty of spark> This makes no sense? I have spark /fuel, &
    compression, yet it dies every 7-10 minutes.
    Will not restart for 10 minutes or so...runs great agian for 7- 10 then the cycle returns!!
    I did replace the fuel pump ,filter & pressure reg. @ T-body not to long ago. Whassup???
    Thanks,
    jon
  • jonnyringjonnyring Member Posts: 74
    FWIW:
    I fixed it and here was the problem.

    Quote:
    check for any codes if you haven't already. It's an easy DIY on older GMs stuff:

    http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/
    The 12 code is just the computer saying hello. The code string starts and ends with 12, usually three times, with the faults in between, i.e. 12-12-12-34-34-34-42-42-42-12-12-12.
    Lots of help here:
    https://www.autozone.com/N,312755/in...cleSelect4.htm


    Quote:
    I then ran the codes .12-12-12-15-15-15-12-12-12

    15=Coolant temperature sensor signal indicates a temperature colder than -27? F for 30 seconds after the engine has been running for at least 30 seconds.

    Hmmm. replace the Coolant temperature sensor??
    Put a new sensor in ($14.61 @ NAPA) and it ran for 35 minutes!!!!!!
    Drove it last night with no problems
  • prairie_katprairie_kat Member Posts: 2
    Just purchased a '94 GMC Jimmy - was told that thereis oil in the gas and will start if it has a supply of gas going through the carb. Please Help!

    Thanks,

    Kathy
  • prairie_katprairie_kat Member Posts: 2
    oil in the gas and will start if it has a supply of gas going through the carb. Please Help!>

    EDIT: Should have been "there is gas in the oil"!!

    Thanks,

    Kathy
  • 90jimmy90jimmy Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1990 full-size GMC Jimmy with a 350 tbi motor in it, after the vehicle gets warmed up its starts to idle very low and almost dies whenever i come to a full stop, then if i turn the wheels either way it will die on me, we have replaced the injectors, cleaned out the egr valve, replaced all the spark plugs, and replaced the fuel pump, none of these things seem to help although when we replaced the injectors it did seem to die less on us though. i really notice it after i drive about 10 miles, but it drives perfectly fine and when you shift it up into park it idles fine, its only when you have it in gear and stopped is when it wants to die on you.
  • xavier3xavier3 Member Posts: 1
    just bought a 97 Jimmy. It starts up just fine when it's warm out. Now that its cold it won't start. After about 30 attempts it will finally start. Once I get it started it drives fine until the next morning. It's starts every other time except in the mornings when it has been sitting all night. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel relay, new battery got the fuel injectors cleaned. What else could it be? Please help im going broke. Thanks!
  • jerry57jerry57 Member Posts: 7
    1996 gmc jimmy 4.3 vortec yes drove it to store last night run fine.
    got in it just morning to sart it,turn the key on spun the starter tried to start at first.
    then it just started to spin and would not fire up. sprayed ethier in it and poured gas in thru the throttle body but still would not fire up.any suggestions
  • bettiefanbettiefan Member Posts: 1
    I have very similar starting problems as most on this forum but I also have other symptoms as a part of an ongoing problem that I have yet to see on here. I have read many posts on here that are very helpfull. I wish I would have known about this sooner. Would have saved me a lot of time.

    symptoms:
    -hard start in cold weather (5-10 attempts before start)
    -won't start at all in really cold weather (like today!)
    -marginal fuel economy
    -marginal power
    -intermittent sluggishness and stalling in warm/hot weather.(summer time) It will happen without warning and will fall on it's face so-to-speak and will drive under very little throttle/load but anything more than that will cause it to spudder.
    -NO DTC CODES! :mad:

    There is no pattern for these symptoms other than temperature. In the fall, when the temp was nice, it ran just fine.

    What I have done:
    -OEM fuel pump installed 11 months ago along with new filter
    -Air filter, PCV, plugs, wires, cap, & rotor 5 months ago
    -57 PSI at schrader valve with key on, engine off
    -can hear relay
    -Cleaned MAF with MAF cleaner

    I have read about replacing the spider assembly, getting the upgrade for it, throwing another pump in it..... all as ways of trying to fix it. I am a single college student. I can't afford to just keep throwing parts at it. Any other ideas that I havent thought of would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys ;)
  • metoftmetoft Member Posts: 1
    I have a 01 jimmy .starting it every morning has become a job.its sounds as if it wants to then conks out.after 4-5 times it starts somtimes many more.after starting it will run great till next morning.I did new rottor,cap, plugs,wires,fuel filter ,fuel pump,engine temp ,o2 censors.better grade gas .it does start if starter fluid is sprayed.
  • painheadpainhead Member Posts: 4
    ok i was wondering if u fig out the problem i to am having the same problem...i add fuel to it and it runs fine till next morning,,i put so much new parts on it it is a new jimmy ...
  • painheadpainhead Member Posts: 4
    i cant start it unless i put gas in thethrottle body then it starts fine and runs fine...shut it off waite 10 min try to start it and it wont start itll crank and crank till i put fuel in ...any idea's....i got new oem pump mas air plugs wires fuel presure sensor cap rotor please help me
  • jerry57jerry57 Member Posts: 7
    mine would not start at all
    it sounds as if you have a problem with your
    pressure somewhere the vortec v-6 needs at lest 60psi.
    did you put a completely assemble fuel pump or just a pump
    it sounds as if your fuel pump is leaking off after it sets awhile
    www.automotiveforums.com there is severl post on there that mjght help explain it better.you can register for free ifyou want to post a question
  • kwbkwb Member Posts: 1
    '94 Jimmy Vin# 1GKDT13W7R2526131 - Cranks, but does not start; chk'd the spark plugs, and they are firing hot; replaced the fuel filter to no avail; ref'd Autozone's online Delmar publications for maintenance & repair, and believe the vehicle to be equipped with CMFI system, but I'm not absolutely sure. It (and other references) imply a dead-end red wire coming out of a relay that services the fuel pump - I have not been able to locate the "red" wire (or anything like unto it), and I'm not absolutely sure if I've even got the right relay (there are 3 relays on the firewall - two attached together on the driver's side, each with 4 wires coming out of them but no red, and another relay in the center firewall just above the engine which has 5 wires, including a red one, but it is attached and is hot - so I doubt that is "the" one).

    I've got to the point that I'm assuming the fuel pump is faulty, and the fuel tank had just been filled; however, when trying to stick a siphon tube down the filler tube, but can't even get it wet - is there a screen preventing the siphon from going all the way into the tank? If so, how can I drain the tank other than shooting it with my .44 magnum?

    Advice, help, etc., would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • pogomonsterpogomonster Member Posts: 4
    1995 JIMMY 4.3 VORTEC .. NEW WIRES .. DIST. CAP & ROTOR
    RUNS FINE ( WHEN RUNNING ... ) STARTS FINE ON COLD DAYS BUT WILL NOT START AT ALL ON WET , DAMP MORNINGS ...
  • jonnyringjonnyring Member Posts: 74
    Dist. cap is right next to firewall, correct? It may be getting soaked as water gets in that area from the trailing edge of the hood. My '91 barely runs on wet days...it's moisture inside the cap. I changed everything and put silicone where the cap sits onto the distributer. It helps. First dry out the inside of the cap (maybe spray WD-40/moisture displacer) then seal it up with silicone. Spray everything with WD40 and make sure your hood rain gutter is clear of debris so water isn't backing up and pouring onto the dist. cap.
    jonny
    8-)
  • pogomonsterpogomonster Member Posts: 4
    THANKS ... will do .... funny local mechanics don't think of this solution ... more money in parts than silicone maybe ???
  • macvin64macvin64 Member Posts: 1
    95 jimmy wont start crank sensor good ignition module good cam sensor good feul pressure o.k fire o.k compression good timing good tac dosn't work please help
  • jeisbelljeisbell Member Posts: 1
    The fuel pump relay is located in the back of the glove box under a plastic cover marked "Relays". I had the same problem, gould pour a little gas in the intake and it would start up and run fine until you shut it off and let it set overnight. It took me awhile to locate the relays. Once I replaced the relay, it started fine. Good luck.
  • cisco999cisco999 Member Posts: 1
    Hello all,

    I have a 1995 GMC Jimmy which has been having some issues. For about a week I have been driving it with some RPM Issues. I finally made an appointment with the mech. when it died on me while I was driving.Unable to start back up. They replaced the Distributor Cap and Rotor. Fixed my no start problem but my RPM's are still fluctuating like mad! When the Mech. test drove it they didnt notice any problem. But as soon as I started it they where jumping. While driving it jerks a little while I accelerate and cruise. Has not stalled at all yet except for the one time when my Distributer cap was messed up. Any Ideas???

    Thanks
  • jonnyringjonnyring Member Posts: 74
    You don't state the FI setup? T-body? Injectors? Prolly injectors.
    I do know that when an engine "hunts" (RPM's fluctuates) , one "fix" is to tap on a sticky Idle Control Valve (ICV). Then remove it and clean it with the appropriate cleaner.
    I don't know what your engine has, but it's ONE thing I know that causes "hunting".?
    j.
  • bassemirbassemir Member Posts: 2
    Just when all hope was just about lost I happened to find this forum. Holy smokes, lots of others have been having a very similar problem. After going through all 158 posts I have a idea what to try but would still welcome some advice.

    My daughter drives the Jimmy and has complained about it stalling for weeks (maybe months). I finally drove it once and it did stop. Just as I was slowing down to make a left hand turn. It started right back up. When it stopped I did her a distinct buzzing that lasted maybe 3 seconds and sounded like it was coming from under the hood in the middle of the firewall.

    We do have a check engine light condition. Code P0442. small leak / no flow condition. The car has been to the shop 3 times, first time "loose hoses", 2nd time, new gas cap, third time, replaced Evap vent value per a technical service bullentin. The light continues to come on. I reset it once at Autozone, it was back on later that day.

    I am guessing I have two problems. From all the postings I think I have a ignition switch problem, or is it the harness that causes the stalls. Should I try replacing the ignition switch? btw, my daughter has a key chain with lots of "crap" hanging from it. Could the aggravate the problem? For now I told her to drive with just the single key in the ignition to see if that makes a difference. (Note: I was using her keys when it happened to me).

    As for the check engine light, should I try replacing the vent solenoid? Is that solenoid on the purge tank behind the drivers side rear tire well?

    Any and all suggestions are welcome.
  • erikandlorieerikandlorie Member Posts: 1
    I have a '94 Jimmy with 218,000 miles on it. It started missing out and acting like it was starving for fuel. So I changed the fuel filter. It ran fine for a day or so. Then it did it again. This time worse. So I changed the fuel pump and checked the spark plugs. They were firing okay. I test drove it and it was fine. A 1/2 hour later it was just as bad as it started out. Any suggestions of what to do?
  • sargrantsargrant Member Posts: 1
    I was reading that the ICV could play a big role in the RPM's hunting. My '95 does great while accelerating and at cruise speeds but once you slow down, occasionally, the RPM's hunt and the truck sounds really rough. I know that I have an exhaust leak which I have been told that could be creating a lot of problems with the O2 sensor readings.
  • ol69stangol69stang Member Posts: 2
    Hi all. I have read all the posts and found my problem duplicated many times but there seems to be something different each time. I wanted to see if anyone could point me in the right direction on my problem.

    Engine cranks does not fire.
    I replaced Cap and Rotor and fuel filter.
    There is spark at the plugs.
    I tried spraying carb cleaner into the intake and there was no firing.

    Fuel Pressure to the CPI before start is 55 - 58 PSI. During cranking pressure falls to around 40. When I let off the starter the pressure spikes to 55 - 58. If I do not crank it I hear the pump relay click off and the pressure slowly drops to around 20 or so and stays there. Does this indicate a bad pump?

    Thanks
  • ol69stangol69stang Member Posts: 2
    Update:

    I tried the carb cleaner thing again and got some response. It was trying to fire.

    Vehicle info: 1994 GMC Jimmy 4.3 V6 CPI VIN code W stock condition AT

    SES code 32....EGR. This is intermittent.

    Thanks
  • etubbsetubbs Member Posts: 7
    im getten gas to the throttle boty and its not the computer how much pressure should it show on the pressure tesster for the fuel pump and what else could it be it ll start with either but thats it its a 97 jimmy 4.3 gimmie sum ideas please thanks ed
  • etubbsetubbs Member Posts: 7
    ive did evrything changed the filter on 97 jimmy 4.3 its gettin gas to the throttle body tested it with pressure guage said 60 psi when cranked it with either just had a tune up the works now it died its not the computer did i use the psi guage right and what else could it be thanks ed
  • etubbsetubbs Member Posts: 7
    my 97 jimmy 4.3 v6 keeps on blowing relays now it wont start at all could somone help me tell me what to look for now ............thanks ed
  • sknight1sknight1 Member Posts: 2
    HELP! I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy. About a month ago the fuel pump went out. Got that and the fuel filter replaced. Ran good for about 2 weeks then it died on me going home from town. Let it sit over night as 2 tow bills later I was stuck. Went back the next morning and it started just fine. Now the darn thing, will start once it sits for about an hour after being ran, but once ran (Even just a couple of blocks) will not turn back over. I have had a mechanic come to the house 3 times but it doesnt act up when he is here, and had a diagnostic ran on it and it doesnt throw a code. Does anybody have any clue as to what might be wrong?
  • etubbsetubbs Member Posts: 7
    wish could help u more but it sounds like a cobe found under the hood on passengmputer problem should er side looks like a black box try replacing that or it could be the coil pack module ull find it on the side passenger try replacing it get it from a junk yard lots cheeper there not high stuff and trace ur wires see if you got any naked i no it s a lot but its worth it let me no what u come up with ed
  • etubbsetubbs Member Posts: 7
    look for the computer passenger sorry typing bad
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Welcome Ed - after posting, you may edit your post for 30 minutes. Just click on the Edit link.
  • kingpl456kingpl456 Member Posts: 1
    hi i have a 2000 jimmy 4x4 i starts when it is cold after driving for awhile it stalls and wont start until it is cool again replaced fuel pump plugs wires cap rotor and it still dow it it has spark it has fuel to the injector rail but still wont start replaced fuel pump relay in fuse box an still the same problem spray quick start in the trottle body wil kick like it wants to start as soon as it cools it starts write up can you suggest any thing thanks
  • immanaimmana Member Posts: 2
    if had the same problem years ago on a nissan 280zx. car would just die when it got hot. once engine cooled, it ran fine.

    not even sure if the jimmy has the same thing but the problem was (if i remember correctly) the ignition module. i remember it was a small black electonic module that sat on side of the distributor. easy replacement and fixed the problem.
  • sknight1sknight1 Member Posts: 2
    I have had my 2000 GMC Jimmy in the shop now for 2 weeks... starting to figure it out
    I had the fuel pump replaced about 2 months ago... still having problems with starting after it gets hot... Mechanic just replaced the wiring harness for the iginition switch, and it starting throwing codes right and left... mechanic thinks the main computer brain for the Jimmy went out.. will post as we know more.. just wanted to give an update... Good Luck
  • jonnyringjonnyring Member Posts: 74
    FWIW:
    My '91 jimmy would start and run until it got up to temp....then die and not restart until cool. I pulled the codes and it said something about the "temp. read -15 degrees" or something to that effect.
    I replaced the temperature sending unit to the ECU (brain) and all is fine.
    jon
  • goodwislgoodwisl Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 GMC Canyon light duty truck and the engine light is on. Went to Autozone and they gave me the following problems?
    1. Purge or vent solenoids defective
    2. Check connector and wiring
    3. Fuel Saturated vapor canister
    4. Failed EVAP vent solenoid

    They said it could be one of the above. My question is how much does replacing/repairing any of these costs? As you know, auto shops are charging anywhere from $49.99 - $89.99 to check to see why the "check engine light" is on. I don't want to be charged for that since I already know what the problem is. Also, they may try to incorporate that cost into the repairs anyway if they knew that I didn't know how much it costs to repair in the 1st place. I've been going online but still can't find assistance with costs.
    Thanks, Sue
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