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BMW 335i 2007+
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Yes.
Cause I love my car, and dont really want to damage it when its like brand new...
Well, you should have read your owners manual BEFORE you put the pedal to the metal. The manual describes the correct break-in procedure.
So what exactly does break in do?
The purpose of the break-in procedure is to ensure that the bearings and the piston rings/cylinder bores wear in properly. This is particularly important for the N52 engine because the direct fuel injection and turbocharging put extra loads on the rings and cylinder bores. Proper break-in procedures also assists the gearbox and final drive(s) internals to establish proper wear patterns.
Finally, if you want to drive 135, start attending BMW CCA Drivers Schools and learn the proper way to drive fast- in a safe and controlled environment.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Yes.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
LOL!!!
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Now, the engine is cooked!
Regards,
OW
I informed him that I didn't have time to respond to people who had the answers literally at their fingertips.
Now, the engine is cooked!
Probably not, but who knows? Harsh treatment early on can never help. I remember that when I picked up my Club Sport the salesperson told me that the car will want to play, but that it was my duty to resist temptation until the break-in period was over...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
RTFM is what everyone should aspire to.
Regards,
OW
I have a reputation for being obsessive about proper vehicle maintenance, and it has paid off. In late 2005 I was looking to sell my my wife's 130K 1997 528iA. Carmax offered $5000. I wound up selling the car to another customer of my BMW indie shop for $10,000. When I had my M6 for sale, a fellow CCA member gave me a $5,000 deposit without even driving it. He came back the next day with the balance and drove away.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Regards,
OW
In contrast, before I bought my Prelude, I leased a 2000 Saab 9-3. After delivery, the dealer told me to take it easy on the car for the first 500 miles (keep it around 55-60 max). I pulled out of the dealership and crept along the side of the road (Rte 17 in NJ, a very busy highway) for about 50 feet, hit the sport button (it was a slushbox), waited for my slot to open up, and dropped the hammer. I looked down and realized I was going 90+ before I let up (this began my love affair with the turbocharger). I wonder how that car's holding up now?
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Assuming that it wasn't red-lined to get up to that speed of course.. How high do you think a 335i is taching at 135 mph? 5000 RPM? I wouldn't worry about it.
regards,
kyfdx
visiting host
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It's not the speed that's bad, it's how you got up there...
True enough, but I also suspect that anyone who drives a new car 135 on the street has likewise become "up close, and personal" with the redline as well...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Yep. A buttload more cylinder pressure at the same rpm. RPM is not the only factor.
Regards,
Tom
I agree completely. Frankly, I'm still not convinced that Munich has the N54 turbo motor fully sorted yet. I'm primarily concerned about the reports that some cars are wearing out their oil in under 2000 miles. With the 15,000 mile oil change interval, I'm not too enthusiastic about picking up a car just off lease.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
It's the line on your tachometer that tells you "Please keep the needle under this line" or you'll do something to the motor you might regret!
Think of it as a dead line.
Regards,
OW
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Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Fact is, you never know. Sometimes you get lucky, sometimes it bends, and sometimes the grief comes later on in the engine's life.
Depends a lot on internal engine design, and metallurgy, too.
you could rev old 60s Alfas up that high, too.
I believe most modern automatics limit the shifts below red line at full throttle but correct me if I'm wrong. The point of this tread was adherence break-in procedure. You shouldn't be floor-boarding the gas before the end of the recommended session!
Even a CPO inspection will not hint at previous over-revving conditions. Unless they test internal clearances and metal strength, it's a crap shoot. I assume in the future a computer can track those events to tip off the unsuspecting customer.
Regards,
OW
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Regards,
OW
That car had a fuel cutoff, but this guy shifted from 3rd to 2nd and caused a mechanical over-rev.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
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Or bounce off the rev limiter...
I'm not sure what BMW recommends, but on my 911, with a 7,200 RPM redline, you are instructed not to exceed 4,200 RPM for the first 800 miles. With my former Honda S2000, with a 9,000 RPM redline, the break in limit was 5,000 RPM. So if you floored the 335i, my guess is that it went right up to redline before shifting and about 3,000 rpm past where you should have been.
Why don't you take a minute and look at the owner's manual?
Best Regards,
Shipo
Regards,
OW
Best Regards,
Shipo
That's the way I like my manu-matics... but, I don't think many are made that way, any more.... Most of them just upshift when they get to red-line..
As far as our original poster damaging his car? While it wasn't a very good idea to do 135, especially if you red-lined it getting up there.... I'd say the chances are slim that you did any damage... Now.. .the chances of your car having damage are exponentially greater than someone that has followed the proper break-in procedures.. But, I still think that chance is very, very small.. Don't do it again, and relax..
Not an expert... just my $0.02...
regards,
kyfdx
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No, I'm pretty sure it will require the correct parts. Money will either burn up or blow right out of the engine bay as soon as you start moving. :P
Seriously, though. With the right amount of money, there's almost no limit to what can be fixed/repaired. It just comes down to whether or not it's actually worth the cost of the repairs.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Heh...if the car has a 7000rpm red line and you go to 6800 that's red line enough for a new engine.
I'm sure it's fine...do a compression test in a couple years and if it's good...then it's good.
This whole series of questions and responses is going from the sublime to the absurd. Here's what you need to do:
(1) Read the damn owner's manual. You obviously can read, or you wouldn't be posting here. But what the heck is your problem with learning what to do or not before you do it?
(2) Learn how to read a tachometer. You know, that round dial next to the speedometer that you appear to be infatuated with? It shows you where the redline is and what rpms you were going. Do you have any clue as to what you hit in rpms?
(3) Keep the car below 4,500 rpm and 100 mph until you have 1,000 miles on the odometer.
What you have done is the equivalent to eating 5 pounds of bacon in one sitting, a few times. Are you going to have a heart attack at some point? Maybe, maybe not. But it's sure not good for your ability to run a marathon. So do a little research before you act the next time rather than search the internet for anyone who will respond as to whether or not your actions caused damage.
The dealer that told you "if nothing happens no problem" should be shot. Of course nothing will happen today if you screwed up the break in yesterday. The whole purpose of proper break in is for the long term performance and durability of the engine. And trust me, the 335i engine, with twin turbos, should be broken in properly. Screw up break in on a GM and it would be hard to tell. My M5 mechanic can drive a BMW with 50k miles and tell within a few percent what the compression is running at, before a test.
Lastly, quit being very careful about the "breaks" while you should be worried about "breaking" your engine. That's like washing the bacon down with diet coke. BMW covers brakes in their maintenance plan. But when you're burning oil at 50,000 miles, and don't have quite the acceleration you should have, you are on your own.
Can we move on now?
And what's wrong with a Big Mac and fries, washed down with a diet coke..caffeine free of course? :blush
Every little bit helps.
"3rd Run, 331 whp and 361 lbs tq"
Woot. Wonder about the effects on the drivetrain.
I was wondering if anyone has any experience with storing golf clubs/soft bag in the new 335 convertible with the top down using the pass through bag going through the rear seat center.
My local dealer does not have any cars with the pass through bag option so I can't see for myself.
Thanks for any insight.
mdkrp
What is the difference between the Sports Package which is available in the states compared to the M Sports Package that is available in Europe?
I also noticed on the bmwusa.com website that you can build your 335 with Sports Package and also add an "Appearance Package".. Do these two packages add up to be the same as the M Sports Package in Europe.
I'd appreciate clarification on this. One thing the 335i needs is a bit more spice. Judging by pictures available on the net from Europe of the M Sports Package and the Appearance package on bmwusa.com, the exterior front bumper mod look identical, but the rear modifications look different. Also the M Sport Package boast the //M symbol on the steering wheel. I don't think the appearance package on bmwusa.com provides any Interior modifications.
Thanks for any input on this,
Joseph
San Diego
I don't know how aerodynamic the ground-effects truly are, but you're really not missing anything from a performance standpoint.