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Volkswagen Passat Sludge Issues

1246

Comments

  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Agreed. Some engines are more inclined to leak than others, my current daily driver has over 150,000 miles on the clock and has yet to shed a drop. I've had other cars that were dumping a quart every couple hundred miles once they hit the 100,000 mile mark.

    That said, there is zero scientific evidence to support the argument that says that switching a well broken in engine to a modern synthetic oil will cause oil leaks. None. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • pioneerichpioneerich Member Posts: 3
    Hi:
    I understand VWoA has issued a letter on warranty extension on 1.'8T, and
    I need a copy. Can you help?

    pioneerich@earthlink.net
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I believe that your dealer should be able to provide you with that letter.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    image

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    Hope that helps...it was posted in the car repair database at my local library.

    There's some interesting items in this letter that I should point out:
    1) The letter changes the service interval to no more than 6 months between oil changes. My owner's manual notes the oil change interval to be 5,000 miles or 12 months.
    2) They've made some errors in the oil list. Valvoline Synpower 5w-30 as available in North America is not 502.00 compliant. I've never seen most of these oils in the parts store. I've only regularly seen M1 0w-40 and Valvoline Synpower 5w-40 (and this one only at NAPA stores).
    3) The 502.00 spec is lower than the spec mentioned in my '03 manual (503.01 is specifically cited).
  • majicmanmajicman Member Posts: 40
    My 2001 Passat 1.8t has over 130K mi on it. The oil light has been on only a couple of times in the last several months but the cam chain tensioner is having a problem. I think that problem (the cam tensioner) is caused by low oil pressure.

    I have done a lot of searching and have found a lot of people complaining about sludge in the Passat engine. I have changed oil faithfully at about 5K intervals using Castrol Syntec oil. And still I am having trouble with oil pressure so lets not jump to conclusions about anyone's adherence to oil change recommendations.

    In fact I have also come across text that hints that oil change recommendations are somewhat ambiguous.

    I also found a possible solution. I figure it is worth a shot considering this approach only costs a little more than $60 to implement as opposed to $900 to replace the cam chain tensioner. Here is the link... http://www.auto-rx.com/ check it out if you like. I am not paid by them and I have not begun my procedure yet. But the sheer number of testimonies for this stuff is very impressive.

    I hope this information is helpful to you!

    j
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    "I have done a lot of searching and have found a lot of people complaining about sludge in the Passat engine. I have changed oil faithfully at about 5K intervals using Castrol Syntec oil. And still I am having trouble with oil pressure so lets not jump to conclusions about anyone's adherence to oil change recommendations."

    The question here is, "Which Castrol Syntec oil?" The only two oils sold here in the U.S. that are made by Castrol and approved by VW are the domestically produced Castrol Syntec 5W-40 (502.00), and the German produced Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (502.00 and the more stringent 503.01 oil specfications).

    "In fact I have also come across text that hints that oil change recommendations are somewhat ambiguous."

    Ambiguous? How?

    "I also found a possible solution. I figure it is worth a shot considering this approach only costs a little more than $60 to implement as opposed to $900 to replace the cam chain tensioner. Here is the link... http://www.auto-rx.com/ check it out if you like. I am not paid by them and I have not begun my procedure yet. But the sheer number of testimonies for this stuff is very impressive."

    True, there are lots of testimonials out there about this stuff, however, I've read lots of testimonials about the effacacy of Slick-50 and MMO as well. Looked at another way, I've never seen any scientifically compelling evidence that shows that his stuff is anything more than snake-oil.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • majicmanmajicman Member Posts: 40
    To be honest, I don't know what exactly is the Castrol oil. I believe it is the 5W-40. It is the stuff the VW dealership uses.

    Regarding the ambiguous oil change info; one post said oil changes should be done every 5K miles then at 10K, 20K and 30K... not sure of the exact quote, sorry. But another post in this column recently showed a letter from VW that also was inconsistent in this area.

    Regarding the testimonials about Auto-RX etc. I will let you know how my experiment turns out. But as I think about it it will only be another testimony to you. The testimonials for this stuff gives me great hope that I will be.

    Jim
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    "Regarding the ambiguous oil change info; one post said oil changes should be done every 5K miles then at 10K, 20K and 30K..."

    What you've listed above is the oil service intervals for the newer 2.0T (sorta, it should be 5K, 15K, 25K...), the 1.8T is every 5,000 miles.

    "Regarding the testimonials about Auto-RX etc. I will let you know how my experiment turns out. But as I think about it it will only be another testimony to you. The testimonials for this stuff gives me great hope that I will be."

    Well, your results, disappointing though they most likely will be, might still prove to be intellectually interesting. Not scientific by any stretch, but interesting none-the-less.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Shipo, majicman might be referring to another poster here who insists that the OCI for the Passat (B5 & B5.5) is 10k. This, despite me posting two different excerpts from different model years showing a 5,000 mile maximum OCI. It's really a disservice to the members here, but I digress.

    Majicman - Read your owner's manual. Read the supplement that VW sent out. The OCI is a max of 5k. The manual, at least mine does, states tht under some conditions the oil should be changed more frequently. It's not ambiguous at all. Look at post 46 and 50 under the thread here on Passat Engine Problems - I posted the sections of the manual.

    And just because a VW dealer did the oil changes doesn't guarantee, not by a long shot, that every oil change on your '01 was done with synth. Crikey, many dealers in 2002 were still using bulk Castrol 5w-30 dino juice for oil changes....

    And from what I've read, the Passat doesn't suffer from what I would call "sludge". It actually develops hard, granular particles from the coking of the oil in the hot turbo. One wag on the web christened them "turbo turds."

    Dino juice is more likely to do this, given that true synth is more resistant to coking. Frequent oil changes, with the proper spec of synth, along with proper cooldown after hard driving is the only way to avoid the problem.

    The cam tensioner goes bad because the coked particles block the oil flow and starves the area of lubrication.

    Good luck with the Auto-Rx. Post if it works for ya (well, please post if it doesn't, too).
  • majicmanmajicman Member Posts: 40
    Thanks guys for your replies.

    I have been faithful in changing the oil at least every 5K mi. I admit I have been delinquent in monitoring exactly what oil they have used. And I only mentioned the inconsistency (perceived?) in oil change interval documentation because someone jumped on another poster about his not following recommended intervals. Nuf said about that as far as I'm concerned.

    LOL... "turbo turds"!! This stuff is supposed to melt those too... but I will write and let you guys know what is going on..

    The process started today and involves driving 1200 mi then changing the filter only. Then the next 1200 mi the oil and filter is changed. I drive almost 500 mi each week so it will be two weeks before the filter only change. I have requested the dealer to measure the oil pressure so I have a comparison level in two weeks.

    And thanks for enlightening me about letting the turbo cool off. It never even occurred to me that this could be a problem. As I said I drive 55 miles each way to work 4 days a week at highway speeds. In the morning I arrive at the office with little time to spare. And when I get home at night I just want to get out of the car and into the house. Though I have done this for over three years with this car.

    jim
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    "LOL... "turbo turds"!! This stuff is supposed to melt those too... but I will write and let you guys know what is going on.."

    Funny thing though, panaceas usually aren't. ;)

    Regarding you attempt at desludging, if you could pull the cam cover, take a photo, and then do the same after you're done Auto-RXing, I'd be interested in seeing the pictures. :shades:

    Keep us posted.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • majicmanmajicman Member Posts: 40
    Well, I think I am a pretty clear thinker and am not easily persuaded of things that don't make sense. I may be misinformed but I figure it is worth the try. $60 vs. $900 ... which would you chose? Even if I have to do the $60 thing and fail, it is only $60 so please stop trying to rain on my endevor... You don't have to be supportive, but you don't have to be negative about it each time you reply either.

    I talked with the mechanic this morning, (picked the car up from the VW garage after the oil change) he said the engine looked pretty clean with respect to sludge. I would take pics with the valve cover off but bending over the engine is not possible for me because of a bad back. That's why I didn't do the oil change myself. :(

    I may go out and see what I can see with the oil filler cap removed. If I can get decent pics I will do it. I don't know how to post pics in here though is there instructions somewhere? Or do I send them in email?

    I will keep you posted as much as possible. And I will be honest about the results if I fail I will tell you, If successful I will tell that too.

    Jim
  • sandyseasandysea Member Posts: 6
    I posted earlier on; my VW 2004 1.8T Passat; only 30K miles; filed complaints about the dealership as this "letter" was sent prior to my purchase and since I bought it as a demo, I never got this letter. My oil changes were using non synthetic oil as I did not know and the 3.2 part of my manual when purchasing the vehicle is not even in there!!

    Question however; my car when I accelerate sounds like "closest to an aquarium that has pebbles in the filter"....just sounding like bubbling and like particles are stuck...is this what you are referring to and can this be fixed with any of the products that will remove sludge?

    God help me; I owe 13K on the car, VW of America will not honor my warranty as I didn't adhere to a "letter" they sent that I never got. I bought my car in Nov 2004 and the letter went out prior to that.....I am at a loss for what to do... :cry:
  • majicmanmajicman Member Posts: 40
    I don't know about sludge causing your noise... your description makes me think pre-ignition (knocking). Do you use premium grade gas? Or regular? I have used (out of ignorance) regular gas in my Passat for over three years without a peep from the engine about it. If your noise is caused by pre-ignition I would suggest checking the plugs to see if they have carbon deposits. If yes, then replace them and use the higher grade of gas. Does your computer store any fault codes (check engine light on)? If you don't know it might be worth having the codes checked by a mechanic.

    If you want to research the Auto-RX stuff I am experimenting with, follow this link to their web site... http://www.auto-rx.com/ The testimonials there seemed to make sense to me so I am giving it a shot. I will be posting my results as the "cleaning" is moving along.

    Believe me I know what it is like to be upside down in the loan! I hope you find a solution to your problem.

    Jim
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    "Well, I think I am a pretty clear thinker and am not easily persuaded of things that don't make sense. I may be misinformed but I figure it is worth the try. $60 vs. $900 ... which would you chose?"

    Were it that I was in your shoes I'd try it too, I just wouldn't be holding my breath for stellar results.

    "Even if I have to do the $60 thing and fail, it is only $60 so please stop trying to rain on my endevor... You don't have to be supportive, but you don't have to be negative about it each time you reply either."

    Please understand that I'm not trying to rain on your parade, it's more that I'm trying to suggest to you that if you don't have high expectations of this endeavor, you aren't likely to be too disappointed if/when it fails to solve all of your engine's problems.

    As for why I'm not bubbling over with enthusiasm and optimism for your chances of getting good results from Auto-RX; the fact is that I've been wrenching on engines since the early 1970s and I've seen many-many of these seeming miracle treatments come and go over the years, and so far at least, I have yet to see a single one do the job it claimed to do. The fact is that sludge is fairly hard and dense stuff and is very difficult, if not impossible, to remove with any form of a solvent that won't do considerable damage to other parts of your engine.

    "I talked with the mechanic this morning, (picked the car up from the VW garage after the oil change) he said the engine looked pretty clean with respect to sludge."

    Hmmm, interesting. I'd love to know what component(s) he took a look at to determine the level of sludge in your engine.

    Going back to your first post, you wrote that your 1.8T was triggering a low oil pressure light and that the "the cam chain tensioner is having a problem." You might could well be correct that the low oil pressure is to blame for the problem (and should probably be replaced as a result). As for the pressure problem, is could be for one of several reasons:

    1) The pick-up screen is clogged with sludge and/or "turbo-turds"
    2) The main and/or rod bearings are worn and allow too much oil to escape past them too quickly
    3) Low oil level
    4) A failing oil pump

    Keep us posted.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • majicmanmajicman Member Posts: 40
    Oh.. I think I forgot to mention that I had the oil pressure checked with a manual meter. The mechanic said the pressure was within tolerances for this car, both cold and hot.

    I appreciate your comments and I promise I have realistic expectations. I did take a few photos of my Passat today. You had express interest in seeing parts of the engine. I don't think they show much, but I would be happy to share them if you are interested. How can I do that?

    Based on my conversation with the VW mechanic today, I think I will remove the crank position sensor and inspect it for metal fragments. I think it might be possible that after over 130K mi it could have collected enough to interfere with its operation.

    Jim
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    "Oh.. I think I forgot to mention that I had the oil pressure checked with a manual meter. The mechanic said the pressure was within tolerances for this car, both cold and hot."

    Well now, that's an interesting turn of events. Could it be that your engine has a bad pressure sensor?

    As for the photos, yes, I'd love to see them. If you click on my ID you'll find my E-Mail address. ;)

    Keep us posted on he results of Crank Position Sensor inspection as well.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • majicmanmajicman Member Posts: 40
    Yes, I thought it was interesting that the oil pressure was actually okay. I agree that it's possible that the oil pump screen may be clogged intermitently.

    The machanic suggested that if the crank position sensor was not functioning correctly the computer could interpret the lack of signal as lack of oil pressure, I think because the rpms would look like they had dropped to zero. I am not explaining it as he did, but it made sense at the time. Next time I am in the VW dealership I will ask if there is anyway to check the oil pressure sensor.

    I have sent the email with pics I took. I hope they provide useful information. Thanks for your interest.

    Jim
    :shades:
  • sandyseasandysea Member Posts: 6
    Yes, my stop engine light comes on intermittently. Has done so a couple of times but as I said, the 3.2 portion of my manual does not exist....think I bought a demo lemon but who is to say?

    I have used regular gas but at least 90 octane, so in between. Will check on the plugs. I have no choice but to try to get another oil change, use the rx or whatever and see what I can do with that. I also have an electrical problem...the dealership said it is a module in the driver's door controlling the windows, locks, etc. They want 1K to fix that as well. So the solution the dealership is giving me is: 9K new engine, 1K for electrical...10K fix or they will give me 3K for my car if I trade it in on an 08 Passat....either way I would be out 10K....single gal and have no clue if they are screwing me....turbo still kicks in when driving, etc. I am confused :sick:
  • majicmanmajicman Member Posts: 40
    MAN-O-MAN!! I would suggest getting a 2nd opinion from another VW dealer or an independent mechanic. Perhaps you have a friend or someone at work that does business with a mechanic. Ask if the mechanic works on VWs. I have read threads on this board that talk about a "comfort module" under the drivers seat being affected by water coming in to the passenger compartment. You might want to investigate that too.

    Plugs and wires and coils can affect skipping. Octane can cause knocking. Carbon on plugs can cause "dieseling" and knocking. Has the motor ever continued to run after shutting it off? This will sometimes happen with too low an octane and deposits on the plugs.

    I would definitely NOT take the VW people up on their offer... (of trading for an 08) AND I would not be bashful about telling them why either. You should be able to trust the people that you have service your car! JMHO... It doesn't sound to me like they are trustworthy AND it seems to me from your comment "...have no clue if they are screwing me", tells me you don't trust them either.

    My curiosity is killing me.. I would love to have a look at this car but I know it is not feasible. Let us know how you make out.

    Jim
    :shades:
  • majicmanmajicman Member Posts: 40
    FWIW.. My Passat has developed a very annoying behaviour. That is after about 5 to 10 miles of operation at regular operating temperatures it decides to just STOP. It is as if I shut off the key.

    Monday I was on the way to work when, 5 miles down the road it did this. I wasn't able to start it again until about 15 minutes later. The VW mechanic convinced me that the crank position sensor could cause this. The car is over at VW now for this repair. I will report back when I get the car back, hopefully I can then resume my "desludging" project I began last week.

    Also, I'm not sure I am convinced but he also tried to say that this crank position sensor could cause the cam timing error seen a week ago that prompted me to start the "desludging" project.

    Jim
    :shades:
  • majicmanmajicman Member Posts: 40
    Next time I have a look at my Passat under the hood I'll see if I see a tube running into the turbo. As for the door and electrical problems see if you can either look yourself or get a friend to look for that "comfort module" under the drivers seat. I have read several posts about water leaking in and under the carpet causing trouble in this area.

    If there is sludge you might try that Auto-rx procedure. I am still in the beginning stages of my experiment with this stuff so I cannot advise more than suggest you check out the testimonials on their site.

    You will have to address one problem at a time. What is it that they want to do for $1000? IMHO, a new motor is a bit overkill for a problem with sludge. Is the car drivable?

    jim
    :shades:
  • sandyseasandysea Member Posts: 6
    Thank you again!! I took some pictures of the "aluminum foil" and the oil cap and top of engine. Where is the comfort module? I am an accountant, not a mechanic, but I will try to see where it is....omg thank you so very much!!! :) Can I post pics here? Or can I send them to someone? I can't believe I will lose 10K on a car that I drive very little...but stranger things have happened
  • majicmanmajicman Member Posts: 40
    I will change my profile to reveal a email address when you click my nickname above. I am told the "Comfort Module" is under the drivers seat but can be affected by water leaking in under the drivers side carpet.

    Jim
    :shades:
  • sandyseasandysea Member Posts: 6
    Thank you so very much!! I had a 99 Jetta wagon, 5 speed that never gave me any trouble....they talked me into trading it since it had 66K miles on it and I was about to outlive my warranty. If I can send you pics, I will gladly pay you or give you something for your time to just even look at the pics...:)
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    The comfort control module is under the driver's side carpet. Basically it's between the floor mat posts and the rear edge of the reinforced part of the carpet. It's not actually under the seat. You need to pull up the carpet and pad to access it.
  • sandyseasandysea Member Posts: 6
    The car is definitely drivable; still has the "whistle" for the turbo and it certainly drives....the noise of the aquarium with the pebbles is on acceleration.

    I am sorry; I really don't know what to do....
  • majicmanmajicman Member Posts: 40
    Got the car back last night. The crank position sensor had been replaced. I have to say the car behaves much better now. I drove my 55 miles to work this morning and narry a murmur or peep from the engine. Maybe this was the source of my problems all along! However, I will continue with the "Desludging" project. If the filter change in 1500 miles shows no appreciable crud in the filter I will stop the project after the "rinse" phase.

    Jim
    :shades:
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    I just found the list via this link:

    http://www.rs246.com/index.php?name=Downloads&req=viewdownloaddetails&lid=67
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Thanks! :shades:

    While fairly short compared to the 502.00 list, it is longer than I thought it would be. ;)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • kss1759kss1759 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2007 passat and have had problems with a hissing sound when I take my foot off the brake. Also, there are creaking noises like the doors are moving or the top of the car is moving and creaking. The dealer tried to fix the creaking noise in the back of my car by "drilling holes at the weld spots" whatever that means. Now the car is much worse after 2 weeks of them "fixing" it. They tell me the "hissing" sound from the brake area is normal. Any suggestions. I had a 2003 Passat and had NO problems. Should have kept that car!!
  • majicmanmajicman Member Posts: 40
    If the hissing is sort of like fingernails on a black board, it could be metal on the rotors. Either the pads are worn and they are squealing or some other metal rubbing on the rotors. Though I would expect this to appear while the brake was being applied not when released.

    My 2001 Passat was purchased 4 years ago by my daughter. The details of how the car became mine are not important. She was living in Atlanta GA and had a major wreck, Geico chose to repair the vehicle even though the repair cost was very near the value of the car. The car was repaired and was practically like new.

    Not long after I took ownership of the car it would make a loud crack shortly after beginning movement when it went over a bump. It still makes this cracking noise but no ill effects have been seen. I worry about it but I haven't mentioned it to the VW mechanic.

    I would not think that drilling holes in structural welds would be such a good idea and your statement that the sounds are worse than ever seems to confirm that. I would be taking it somewhere else for a 2nd opinion if that were mine. When you find out what it is let us know.

    Jim
    :shades:
  • kss1759kss1759 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks........I am going to file papers to lemon law the car. It has been in the shop for well over 15 days and has only gotten worse. My service tech actually told me that he cannot get fixed the creaking from the panel on the right front passenger side of my car. Furthermore, I was told by my service tech when the car was in the shop that they were "rewelding" the car, not drilling holes in the weld spots as the actual papers said when I got the car back. Nice, huh? Will keep up to date with news.
  • majicmanmajicman Member Posts: 40
    Well at least re-welding makes more sense than drilling holes. But... after re-welding stuff for a while it seems like the technician should figure out, that is not likely the problem. I'm sorry I don't have any good suggestions about a more plausible cause. I still would be interested in learning if you actually succeed in getting it fixed because mine has similar noises.

    Good luck with the Lemon Law stuff. I can't go back to the repair shop or Geico for my problem because I would have to prove it was a result of the wreck it was in four years ago. Chances of succeeding with that are slim to none. I will just have live with it.

    Jim
    :shades:
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Thanks!

    While fairly short compared to the 502.00 list, it is longer than I thought it would be.

    Not a problem, Shipo... :shades:

    At least now we have the smoking gun (documentation) - and since there's only one 5-weight oil on the list (Shell Helix Ultra 5W-30), there should be no doubt that 99.99% of oils on the VW 503.01 spec sheet are 0-weight...

    As far as the North American market is concerned, two of the motor oils on that list are readily available:

    Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (Made in Germany) - sold at Auto Zone
    Mobil 1 0w-40 - Sold at most major auto parts stores

    There should be no reason why VW dealers shouldn't stock these oils (at least in the case of the factory-designated Castrol) and VW oiwners neglect to use these oils - especially for the 1.8T and 2.0T.

    IMHO, there should be less emphasis on the old 502.00 spec (that spec should eventually be laid to rest)....
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    "IMHO, there should be less emphasis on the old 502.00 spec (that spec should eventually be laid to rest)...."

    I share that exact sentiment. ;)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • fleasedfleased Member Posts: 21
    I leased my 2003 passat for five trouble-free years(yeah, I know...) and recently decided to buy it. Right after the first payment, the troubles began. So far of course, repairs have been covered, but my warranty expires within the next month and I'm wondering about the best course of action. Should I spring for another warranty to help calm my nerves about the almost inevitable future malfunctions? Or, would I be better off trying to trade it in and try to wrangle a reasonable lease payment on a new, cheaper (and Japanese) car? Since I owe around $10800 on the thing, though, that's likely to be a tall order isn't it?
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    How many miles do you have on your car? And what specific troubles have you been having?
  • fleasedfleased Member Posts: 21
    It has 46k on it. The first thing to happen was the brake lights staying on even after turning off the car. Apparently there was a recall on this and the dealer fixed it free of charge.
    More serious was the "Turn Off Engine" light that I encountered last week. I took it to my local mechanic, and of course I, couldn't get the light to come back on to show him, even after driving around the block a few times. He was nervous about it being a Euro car so he recommended me to a friend who worked on them. I took it there and he told me flat out that the oil pressure was way low and that I needed a new engine due to the sludge issue ($100 for that). Since I don't have perfect documentation of all oil changes I know that VW would laugh at me if I made a warranty claim, and I'd be out thousands. So, I had it towed to my local VW dealer (wish I'd done that first) who performed a de-sludge (no charge) and after two days, sent me on my way. I've been driving for the past three days and so far so good. But, I feel nervous every time I get behind the wheel, especially after browsing these forums! Would buying a warranty be remotely wise, or would the imperfect documentation come back to haunt me ?
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    So, I had it towed to my local VW dealer (wish I'd done that first) who performed a de-sludge (no charge) and after two days, sent me on my way. I've been driving for the past three days and so far so good. But, I feel nervous every time I get behind the wheel, especially after browsing these forums! Would buying a warranty be remotely wise, or would the imperfect documentation come back to haunt me ?

    I would look into the warranty (just for piece of mind). As far as the sludge issue, fortunately for you it was addressed before any major engine damage has occurred.

    From this point on, as long as you have the oil changed EVERY 5000 miles (do not go beyond these intervals) using a VW 503.01 specification motor oil, you should be fine (HINT: All oils on this list are synthetic, and 99.9% of the oils on the list are either 0W-30 or 0W-40).

    As far as the North American market is concerned, two of the motor oils on that list are readily available:

    Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (Made in Germany) - sold at Auto Zone
    Mobil 1 0w-40 - Sold at most major auto parts stores

    I have two 1.8Ts (2003 Jetta - 110,000 miles & 2003 Passat - 77,000 miles) that have had no sludge related issues to date. What I do is purchase 5 quarts of the VW 503.01 spec motor oil (I use the Castrol Syntec 0W-30 - made in Germany), and take it to the dealer and insist that they use it. Also make sure you staple the receipt from the oil purchase to the oil change service receipt from the dealer to keep with your records.

    For future reference whhen your car reaches the 60,000 - 65,000 mile interval, I strongly recommend the timing belt service. Instead of having this done at the dealer, I would do the following:

    1) Purchase the timing belt service kit from germanautoparts.com. It includes everything you will need - including the improved aftermarket water pump with a metal impeller. Do this and you will extend your timing belt service interval from 60,000 to 100,000 miles (as recommended by the factory).

    Here's the link for the timing belt service kit:
    http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Passat/Engine/290/5

    2). Find a reputable mechanic who specializes in VWs, and have them install the timing belt kit (that way you will only have to pay for labor). I would not take it to the dealer because not only are their labor charges much higher, they will insist on installing their factory parts (including the plastic water pump) - and you will pay accordingly $$$$$.

    Follow these steps and you will have many trouble-free miles with your engine.

    Good luck, and let us know how things turned out.
  • majicmanmajicman Member Posts: 40
    FWIW... I have a '01 Passat 1.8T with 133700 something miles on it. I have had oil changes done at 5K intervals with the synthetic oil as suggested above. The only real problem I have had with it, required a crank position sensor replacement ($180) to correct it.

    My "STOP" indicator came on a few times making me think it was oil pressure but the problem was really that crank position sensor. I did a flush of the oil system but it turns out that I do not have a sludge problem. And the car is running fine now.

    Jim :shades:
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Hey Jim, that's great to hear that your only issue was the CPS. ;)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    My "STOP" indicator came on a few times making me think it was oil pressure but the problem was really that crank position sensor.

    Thanks for the info on the crank position sensor. That's another item I will keep a heads up on regarding my 03 Passat.

    Have you replaced the following recall items yet?

    1. Brake light switch
    2. Coolant temp sensor

    I had both replaced in the Passat this year...

    Thanks, and many happy miles with your Passat... :shades:
  • powersolopowersolo Member Posts: 2
    I've kept perfect maintenance on my 01 passat and the STOP engine light has been coming on since BEFORE the warranty was up. They SAID they fixed it and for $200 it lasted another 8 months and it started again. They act like a stone wall when I mention it to Any one; salesman, repairman, etc. I won't be buying another VW...
  • powersolopowersolo Member Posts: 2
    I think VW owes it's customers an apology!!
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    Define "perfect maintenance", please.
    Have you used only oils meeting 502.01 or 505.00 spec? No more than 5000 miles?

    Krzys
  • mulfomi1mulfomi1 Member Posts: 3
    I have 145,000 miles on my Passat and as original owner changed the oil between 4,000 and 7,000 miles. Always used Mobil 1. Used to use the 5w-30 then switched to the 0w-40 at about 80,000 miles. Never had any engine related issues. Best car I have ever owned. Pick up a 2008 Passat wagon for my wife tomorrow. Expect it to last just as long as mine. I hope the 2 Passats can get along in the same garage.
  • kinctkinct Member Posts: 59
    I just sold my 99 VW Passat - 224,752 miles on it... Wonderful car. No issues of note.

    I have been very good about oil changes. Early on, VW did the changes (free) with Kendahl (sp?), then had a shop do 3-4 (with Castrol "turbo oil", then I took over from that point with Mobil 1 (IIRC 5w50), then Mobil 1 0w40 when VW changed the recommended oil. Early filters (first 120-140k miles) were with Fram filters, then I learned about some of the top-quality brands, so swapped over to Wix or K&N (a mix of the two).

    Pretty much did oil changes at 5,000 miles. Never the slightest hint of sludge related issues.

    I find it so funny that people complain about VW quality. Here is my run with them:

    - (very, very) used 73 VW Super Beetle - um, ok, had some issues there, but this thing had been through hell. Ended up w/ something like 165-170k miles (all but 45k were mine - the original owner did the first 45k miles)
    - 87 VW GTI - ran it into the ground - 213k miles. First time it was towed was 199,500 miles (it must have heard me bragging, because that tow came days after I bragged about almost hitting 200k miles with no tow). Had it out on a race track early in it's life which is probably why it did not last that long.
    - 86 VW Golf - was actually my wife's originally, but she moved to a Volvo Wagon when we had our second child, so this became mine. Sold it at 193,000 miles (just needed more room when we had our third child... Was still running like a champ
    - 99 Passat (224k miles) - sold, but running fine.

    Treat the car right and it will do the same to you. Change your oil frequently (use recommended oils, top quality filters). Oh, and better yet, if you do not do your own oil changes, take it to a place you trust TOTALLY, since some clowns could always tell you they put in Mobil 1 synthetic, and then drop in any old oil (and yet charge you for synthetic). Timing belts go without saying (first on my Passat was done at 120k miles, seconds at 215k miles).

    Moving up the food chain a little (just bought a 2007 Audi A4 - with 40 miles on it - a leftover to say the least!)
  • drotsedrotse Member Posts: 23
    I see everyone talking about the Mobil 1 oil. While it is good oil I have to admit I prefer Amsoil.

    Like anything else in life the good stuff is better. If people would learn how to properly eat their bodies would be like the 2003 Freightliner Sprinter engine (117,000 miles) the two Nissan pickups(one 670,.000 and 310,000) and the '92 oldsmoble(185,000) that I have owned and totally free of sludge. Their colons and blood vessels would not be clogged !

    The people in this country need to wake up and learn how to take care of the things around them and how to be more accountable for their actions. That includes with sitting down and reading, learning and practicing good possitive attitude towards life, others and the things they have been blessed with and not being so arigaint that they think that someone else will do good things for them while they sit back and play !

    This I have also learned that VW,while not perfect has, has stood up to the plate and has done the proceedure for sludge abaitment to the 2001 Passat I purchased in 2007(84,500 miles) and my son has meticulously maintained since, with Amsoil, with the complete records every 3,000 miles, with absolutly NO question.

    This result comes, not from having some one else doing some thing for me with out any of my control but from the fact that I have learned a lesson from the School of Hard Knocks (SHK) and have passed that positive experience on to my son and him realizing that from positive action comes positive results.

    Insead of sitting around and expecting a good life from bad habits WAKE UP America and get rid of the crap in your life.

    I am new to this tread and so hope I have not bothered anyone with senseless gibberish.
  • fleasedfleased Member Posts: 21
    Which Amsoil? 5W40? Just curious.
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