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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Engine and Underhood Problems

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Comments

  • goracingoracin Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 S-10 with a 4.3 that misses -- It was diagnosed with a bad timing chain which was replaced but was mis-diagnosed -- All marks were right on but it misses at 35 m.p.h. on up -- I have had it scanned and it is showing misfire codes on all cylinders and the service engine light is on. I am thinking it could be a Base Timing issue or a camshaft sensor -- The crank sensor was replaced which I think was the root cause of the original problem. My question is how can Base Timing be checked and can it be adjusted?
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    My repair manual doesn't cover your truck but I'm sure it isn't in the gas tank like your fuel pump and sending unit. After looking at pictures of it on the web sites of AutoZone and Advance Auto Parts, I would guess it’s under the hood. I’ve seen the same regulator under the hood of other GM cars also. Trace out your fuel line and you’ll see it.

    The same web site lists the part for around $65 bucks. What I’ve been doing lately when it comes to replacing an external part of something I suspect but not sure of - is go to a junkyard and get the same part for about $10 – 15 bucks. If that’s the problem then the next time I’m at the parts store I’ll pick up a new one. It’s a lot cheaper that way.

    Here are a couple of web sites you might find helpful. They include prices, pictures, and locations of components.

    http://autozone.com/home.htm http://www.partsamerica.com

    :)
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    On a 99 2.2 the FPR is located on the passenger side at the rear of the intake manifold. You will see the vacuum diaphram. Remove the vacuum hose and check for fuel, if no fuel you can be sure its ok.
  • thawstsidethawstside Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1995 GMC Sonoma, it will start but only if I hold the throttle wide open and crank it, but when it starts it is shaking real bad, and wants to stall if you dont pump it, and it smells of strong gas odor. I have had the problem before, changed the coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and the fuel pump. This time around it didnt fix the problem, can anybody here give me some help. I certainly would appreciate it.

    please email me, LiveNLearnSacrifice4Life@yahoo.com

    thanks,
    Jim
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Jim

    Sounds like it’s getting too much fuel. Maybe one of your sensors or connections is faulty.

    Have you had the codes read yet? If you don’t have a reader of your own most part stores will read it for free to get your business.

    You might find the following web site helpful in explaining how the different sensors interface with the onboard computer, which is what actually runs your engine.

    In today’s engine, pumping the accelerator doesn’t do it. We like to think we’re in control but just like 2001: A Space Odyssey (1968), HAL has final word.

    http://www.aa1car.com/library/1999/cm69910.htm :)
  • thawstsidethawstside Member Posts: 3
    Ok, I read up on that site, I got to looking around my tbi and noticed a vacuum line off, once I hooked it up it didnt change anything, the truck still shakes badly, pours black smoke, and smells heavily of gasoline. My CHECK ENGINE light is not on, can they still check codes?, I cant drive the truck anywhere to get it checked, so I am stuck being a driveway mechanic. I have background in car/truck repairs, just not on newer vehicles with computers and all the other crap they put on them...

    Please advise if you can help any more.

    thanks,
    Jim

    LiveNLearnSacrifice4Life@yahoo.com
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Welcome to the 21st century Jim. The era of bubble gum and baling wire are long gone. I too miss the days when all you had to do was file the points and clean the plugs and you were good to go. But – on the other hand back then 100k miles was about all you could expect on an engine life. Where as to day it’s just getting broken in.

    Sounds to me like it has something to do with the MAP sensor or EGR valve. In the past I’ve had to replace them on both Ford’s and GM’s. Sometimes they have a rubber or metallic line running to them that comes loose. Sometimes the sensor or valve just wears out.

    There’s another possibility on the EGR valve. It can get carbon trapped inside it causing it not to open and close like it should. GM is bad for that. They make an after market gasket for it that has a screen built in to help alleviate the problem. The gasket is less than $10 bucks. The MAP sensor or EGR valve are pricey.

    Be advised, in the state your engine is in now it is poring out tons of carbon monoxide. Speaking from experience, do your work outside the garage vice inside the garage. My head still hurts every time I see the dent in the wall from where I fell out from being overcome by the CO.

    Good luck. :)
  • thawstsidethawstside Member Posts: 3
    Hey, I just wanted to extend a special thank you to you. I remember a friend talking about the egr valve in the past and when you said that might be my problem I went after it. I took it off, noticed the little plunger/piston was coated in heavy black carbon, I soaked it with carb/choke cleaner for about 30 minutes, I noticed in the end of it there was a star driver hole, so I took a driver, and gently turned it in complete circles, and pushed it up and down and completely cleaned the carbon out of it, it worked freely up and down with no hesitation. After blowing it out and getting it bolted back on and everything plugged in I had my girlfriend try to start the truck. It didnt hardly take any effort what so ever. The truck idled with no hesitation, I drove the truck around for about 25 minutes to make sure everything was fine and the battery was charging properly from the connections being unhooked, it had a small miss before it broke down, but as I stated before I changed every single part under the hood for the ignition. So, like I said, this post is to THANK YOU for your insight and guidance in figuring this truck out. I couldnt have done it without you.

    thanks again,
    Jim Brandenburg
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose. Glad we got lucky this time. Happy motoring. :shades:
  • youghyough Member Posts: 7
    I have bought ny truck really good looking truck but once i started to drive it i noticed that it would overheat so easily i just need some information on is there something i could add to help cool it or do i have to fix? it i need some major help on this one
  • youghyough Member Posts: 7
    well do you know a way i can fix this i really need to fix it come on someone has to know something
  • youghyough Member Posts: 7
    ok my cousin has a s10 and i know it was lowerd and we have problems with overheaing liek just driving it around gets it hot really easy and i was just wonder is there is a way i fix it so it walnt overheat as bad but im not sure what is worng with it so please help
  • youghyough Member Posts: 7
    ok my cousin has a s10 and it has a overheating problem i know that it was lowerd and when we run it going up the road it get overheated pretty easily and it even get so hot that it makes you hot sitting in the drivers seat im not sure what is wrong just please help me out
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Suggest you take it to a repair shop.
  • sickshoesbrahsickshoesbrah Member Posts: 14
    About 2 months ago, i was out at my familys cottage using my truck to haul [non-permissible content removed] all over, i did alot of starting and stopping. I knew that i was about a quart low, but i didnt think to much of it, so i was on my way home, and it stalled, so i pulled over, barely a drop of oil was in it. Smoke was coming out of my carb. I refilled the oil and it started up just fine. I knew that i did damage, but know i have this crazy knocking noise when i accelerate, and oil is being pushed up and out of my carb and ending up in my air filter, i dont seem to be losing that much oil, but i am also overheating, when i open my hood after 10 mins of driving, smoke will be present, not in excess amounts, but smoke.

    my question is should i try and rebuild the engine or swap it out? And will an older 4.3 fit my truck without any modifications? I have the 2.8 right now, '85 s15.
  • jarvis1187jarvis1187 Member Posts: 1
    First, a disclaimer: I am not a car enthusiast and I know very little about cars...but I need some advice regarding my situation with my 1998 Chevy S-10 Automatic (regular cab). It has almost 130,000 miles on it. In the past 5 years, we have already had to replace the transmission system. In the past 6 months, I have had to replace the alternator AND the radiator is now busted. To boot, the AC is not working (re-charging with freon proved unsuccessful, so there is a leak) and it is getting to be unbearable (as I live in Florida). :sick:

    I just want ot hear some opinions on the matter. I am hesitant to fix the car, as it seems to be going downhill. Would it be better to put that money towards a down-payment on a new car? If I fixed these problems, how much more life do you think the car has? Any advice at all would be great...
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    The way you feel I would dump it. 130K is a lot of miles, did it really need a new transmission or only a repair, chain shops don't repair, just replace.
    I have a 99 auto regular cab it has only 53K, only have done fluid and filter changes, no repairs.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Due to the fact that a huge part of the repair bill is labor, and auto repair isn't your forte, I would suggest getting something new enough you could get an extended warrantee on. Extended warranties are somewhat pricey, but its nice when you can take it back and let them deal with the problems. :shades:
  • skohanskskohansk Member Posts: 6
    I know what you mean, been away myself. Well, back to the truck issue, I'll check this in the morning. Just hope the cat isn't welded in.
  • desertrat2desertrat2 Member Posts: 3
    I purchased a used 2001 S10 in July 2005. It was a great deal, with only 10,000 miles. I replaced the water pump shortly thereafter. Now, two years later and at 30,000 miles, I'm being told that I again have an issue with the water pump and need for it to be replaced. There were no apparent issues, I simply had taken the truck in for routine maintenance. Anyone else having problems with the water pump on this truck?
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Are you using Dexcool coolant, or green stuff?
  • desertrat2desertrat2 Member Posts: 3
    Not certain - the dealer simply states replaced coolant on its invoice. Can you help me understand the difference?
  • dave8697dave8697 Member Posts: 1,498
    Engines blocks have sand in the passageways sometimes when new. If the first person who changed your waterpump flushed the block during the installation it should all be gone. It is abrasive on seals and bearings and could be a contributor to early failure of the factory water pump.
    I have 3 GM 4.3's including one in a Sonoma. They all have their second water pump in them but after a minimum of 70k mi.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Dexcool is orange, the dealer would use that. If it has orange I don't know what the problem would be. If it is green that could be the problem. You can see the color in the reservoir.
  • philipk65philipk65 Member Posts: 3
    I have a '91 S-10 4.3 L. I'm live in California and it won't pass the emissions test. The only category it fails is the "NO - 15 mph" test.

    Before I throw money at parts I don't need. What is the cause for the truck to fail the 15 mph NO test?

    O2 sensor, cat. converter, EGR. could all be a cause, but if try to test each one the best I could.

    What about the EGR vacuum soleniod?

    Any advice would be great! Thanks Kevin
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    I am sure you probably did, but they always say to run it at freeway speeds to get it warmed up before testing. Is your air filter clean and your truck in good running order otherwise?
  • philipk65philipk65 Member Posts: 3
    Yes, Iran it 12 miles at highway speeds before the test, and it was a clean airfilter and in good running order.
  • wmccrearywmccreary Member Posts: 10
    I threw a rod in my truck with 279,000 miles its been the best truck i have had so I had a rebuilt engine put in. After installed The re builder said the is a miss in engine and they think it is the E CM and I should pick it up and take it to a garage and have in diagnosed(the did not have the disnoseic tools ) so I did and they said that #4 cylinder was getting to much fuel and they tried different things and they thought it was the ECM to so I purchased a Used ECM and had it programed to my Vin# and installed it. It did not change anything it still misses at Idle and on acceleration it seems to be ok and at high rpms until you let off the gas. I don't know what to do? can you please help. thanks
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    I would first pull the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator. It will be on the passenger side at the rear, you will see a diaphragm housing with a hose on it. If you smell fuel or see fuel replace the regulator. Don't start the engine with the hose off, fuel may spray everywhere.
  • skohanskskohansk Member Posts: 6
    Lets just say that the cat isn't plugged or for that matter, has anything in it. Whereabouts would I even start looking for a vacuum leak? Also, just want to say thanks for what you guys do.
    Steve
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Not familiar with 91 S-10 four wheel drive. Last 4 by 4 I had was a Jeep Wagoneer. The front differential and X-fer case were controlled by vacuum. All the hoses and vacuum manifold fittings that were underneath the car were weather beaten rubber and required occasional doctoring. Actually all the rubber vacuum hoses and fittings needed replacing but the jalopy was so ate up from salt, the hoses was the least of its problem.

    On the S-10 that I drive now (92, 4.3Z) I had a problem similar to yours that was bugging me to no end. Finally I accidentally came across the problem. The vacuum line that runs from the PVC valve to the front of the throttle body had a bad vacuum leak. As it turned out the plastic elbow had a serious crack on the bottom of it that you wouldn’t normally see. After I replace that it ran like a champ.

    Suggest you go hand over hand tracing all your rubber vacuum hoses back to the intake manifold. It’s time consuming but on rigs that have a little age on it like yours and mine, there’s a good chance that the vacuum hoses could have an Aortic Aneurysm.

    Good luck and keep us updated on developments. :)
  • hepner1hepner1 Member Posts: 2
    My 94 s10 with 2.2 4cyl suddenly started running rough. I have replaced plugs and wires after I found the #1 wire broken. It is still running rough. Any ideas where to go next?
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    You might try running a compression check. :)
  • wincmartindalewincmartindale Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2002 GMC Sonoma, Single Cab, SLS, Stepside, 4.3L, 5 Speed, 2WD, with the ZQ8 Suspension Package. We have had this truck since we drove it off of the showroom floor in 2003. This truck has been great to us however I change all of the fluids more often then they should be changed. Now when I drive the truck if makes awful noises. Its fine when you accelerate but it just sounds awful when you let off of the gas or push the clutch in. I think it might be the rear end, my brother thinks it the transmission, and my dad thinks its the clutch. Anyone have any ideas? I have already pulled the rear diff cover off and the rear end looks like it might be bad. Also does anyone know how many splines this truck has on the rear axle? Any help is appreciated.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Coasting noise is usually rear end, tell by sound coming from rear. Most likely needs bearings, if gears not damaged.
  • hepner1hepner1 Member Posts: 2
    Compression within 5% of spec an all 4 holes, any other ideas?
  • parts1960parts1960 Member Posts: 3
    Out of the Blue one morning My 1995 Chevy S 10 started Missing.i started my trouble shooting by seeing what Cylinder was not firing.It was number 2.I chnged Plugs ,Plug Wires,Got a new Battery.I made sure every Plug was getting fire by Taking the wire off each plug one at a time.When i took off # 2 off the motor did not Change.I also checked for any Vacum leaks.I bought some Fuel injector Cleener and Shot it down the throttlebody.Did not make a difference.I took it to a Auto repair shop.The first thing they did was a Compression check all cylinders checked out good 120.tehn they started doing test on the injectors they checked out good.Now they are telling me that The computer might not be sending good signals to the fuel injectors,Might have to buy new computer,They tell me my Model truck has the PCM cumputer.They are suppose to call me with the final results tomorrow,Just wondering if anybody else had this kind of problem.Not sure if the computer can be reprogramed?????If anybody has any ideals i would like to here from you.Frustrated in Georgia.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Some of the GM engines have EGR problems clogging up also. They make and after market gasket/screen for GM, maybe there's one for Honda too.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Did you check out the coil for #2? You might try switching the coils around and see if your miss moves around also. A coil doesn't normally go out all at once like you described, but it doesn't cost anything except a little time for the procedure above. :)
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Compression check sounds great. That eliminates questionable valves and other innards. Suggest you might check out your coils while your in the trouble shooting mode. :)
  • parts1960parts1960 Member Posts: 3
    Yes i tried that as well both Coil packs were putting out plenty of spark.That was one of the first things the mechenic at the shop eliminated.Thanks for the suggestion.Hope to hear a answer from the shop today.
  • wincmartindalewincmartindale Member Posts: 4
    So I have found that the nut holding the gear onto the yoke was loose. Does anyone know what size the rearend is for a 2002 GMC Sonoma, Single Cab, SLS, Stepside, 4.3L, 5 Speed, 2WD, with the ZQ8 Suspension Package?
  • stev358stev358 Member Posts: 3
    93 s10 with standard trans will it inter change with an 88 s10 the93 is v6 the 88 is 4 cyl please a little help
  • parts1960parts1960 Member Posts: 3
    WELL AFTER OVER A WEEK AT THE REPAIR SHOP THEY CALL ME TONIGHT AND AFTER MUCH TROUBLE SHOOTING THEY CLAIM THE # 2 INJECTOR IS BAD.AT FIRST THEY SAID POSSIBLY THE (PCM) THEN TI WENT TO THE iGNITION MODULE NOW THEY SAY # 2 FUEL INJECTOR.I ASKED THEM TO GIVVE ME A ESTIMATE OF THE BILL HE SAID IT WOULD HAVE TO BE TOMORROW.IM A LITTLE SKEPTICAL BUT NEEED MY TRUCK BACK.HOPE ITS READY TOMORROW.WORRIED IN GEORGIA 08-16-07
  • xtmfanatic4xtmfanatic4 Member Posts: 7
    Hey, sick. My name is Zack and i currently own a 97 s-10.Dont know if this helps any but I also had a blinker issue twice. do to the flasher burning out. First time was 86,000 miles or so. Then the second one shortly again after the installing the new one. Why or how it happened twice i do not know. But my only way of fixing it was to install a heavy duty towing flasher. its been working ever since.and its much louder so i can always hear it.uhh as for the truck running hot, my truck is constanly being pushed, the a/c is always on and I know that i frequently stomp the pedal but it usually stays in the high hundred degree range or so. The only thing i could think of is check your air filter, or flush your raidiator out and refill it. Well thats i got...so good luck and hope i helped with your problems. Peace out
  • xtmfanatic4xtmfanatic4 Member Posts: 7
    Hey winc, Zack here, the only thing i might suggest is to try to find out where the noise is coming from, or where it would most likly be coming from.if u cant find out where,, get the truck lifted into the air (if you can) and listen to the truck engage into its gears. acceleration and deceleration should be completly smooth being that its in the air. uhh, the only other thing i might suggest is check for an exhaust leak? I really couldnt help you unless i knew what it sounded like. Sorry bud. Good luck
  • xtmfanatic4xtmfanatic4 Member Posts: 7
    Hey dws, Zack here, our 05 d-max was extremely bouncey on the road the tires are stock size, and the problem only showed up about a month ago during excessive traveling out of state. We replaced all the shocks with heavy towing type. Brand is Bilstein, umm let me look into what the number was exaclty and ill try to get back to you. Remind me if you can, im extremely busy, but want to help you out.
  • xtmfanatic4xtmfanatic4 Member Posts: 7
    Hey, jnoltie. Zack here, not sure where the filter is, i have the 4.3L but im positive you should be able to access it with a crawler, and search under the block. And yes sir that is the coolant resivore, at least in my truck.lol, right behind the battery. Mine is a 1997 so they shold be close or some what similar. [non-permissible content removed] Luck
  • wincmartindalewincmartindale Member Posts: 4
    Hey Zack, Winc here. I figured out that the pinion gear nut came loose. So my rear end was vibrating like crazy because the pinion gear was loose. However I am currently trying to figure out if what size rearend I have. I need to know if its a 7.5" 8" 8.5" or an 8.6". When I tried to order the parts from summitracing.com I can pick specs of the rearend and that is telling me that it's a 8.5". However that is the same size as the Silverado 4X4 and my sonoma is 2wd. Plus my brother says that my rearend is smaller that a 8.5". If anyone can help that would be appreciated.
  • philipk65philipk65 Member Posts: 3
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