Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Engine and Underhood Problems

1246789

Comments

  • troll6troll6 Member Posts: 1
    This truck was a basket case when I got it. Electrics were jumpered all over.I pulled all that and hooked almost all back correct. My problem is it will start with an ether shot but no other way.

    What gives or makes happen the starting fuel supply?
    I have the fuel pump hotwired to run with the key on-thinking that might be throwing off the ecm and fuel pump timer.

    Anyone know the system that good?
  • oldvolkz1oldvolkz1 Member Posts: 2
    t is melted off what can it be?
  • oldvolkz1oldvolkz1 Member Posts: 2
  • xtmfanatic4xtmfanatic4 Member Posts: 7
    oh man. that is a tuffie. I would try to find a specs chart or something that might have the exact gearing in the differntial.Sorry if i spelled it wrong.Other than that, i dont know. Sorry. I will keep my eyes open.
  • sickshoesbrahsickshoesbrah Member Posts: 14
  • xtmfanatic4xtmfanatic4 Member Posts: 7
    Ok Winc. I've got an idea. At your local Napa, Pepboys, Autozone, or Kragen i'd try to find a repair manual for your truck. It would be the most accurate in detail and specs. They can be expensive books but im sure its something you will use in the future. In addition to helping you with everything. Step by step.
  • wmccrearywmccreary Member Posts: 10
    Thanks put I think the fuel reg is in the front this is a 2.2 liter by the way I have been thinking about replacing the fuel reg. so that will be the next step Thanks so very much!!!!
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    You miss read my post, that is rear of engine. If you don't where it is you will have trouble finding it, that's why the instructions. Of course I was going by my 99, the 96 might be different. I know my 94 Cavalier was at the rear, same set up as yours. There were big changes in 98.
  • donksdonks Member Posts: 1
    Recently, my 2000 auto 4cyl 2.2l has been producing a scream, increasing in pitch as the RPM's go up, and decreasing as they go down. You can only hear this sound inside the cab however, even with the hood open and your head in the bay you cant hear it. I've played around with the AC while driving to see if that had anything to do with it, but didnt see any change.

    Also, after this noise started happening, it wont go over 65mph, I'll have it floored on the freeway and it just stops speeding up, the RPM's dont go up anymore. It's not like a govern, almost like the engine idles.

    Any ideas on what could be going on?? thanks! :D
  • 98shitnoma98shitnoma Member Posts: 2
    I've got a 98 GMC Sonoma 4cly. 2.2 5 speed, and i am drinking gas like crazy and i cant figure it out!!!!!! I've replaced the MAP sensor, throttle position sensor, intake air temp. sensor, both O2 sensors, coolant temp. sensor and it is not getting any better at all!

    THIS SIGHT LOOKS LIKE ALOT OF HELP SO PLEASE HELP ME OUT!
  • wmccrearywmccreary Member Posts: 10
    Hi this is a revise post I had a new engine put in and after the 2 one I have taken my truck to 4 mechanics to see if they can find the missing problem with none of them able to fix it.It misses when Idleing almost like loping it excelerates find with no miss it deexceleates find but at an even throttle you can feel it below 2500rpms after deexce. and replying gas it hesitates a bit I have been told it the pcm so I bought a used one and had it reprogramed to my vin# so I gave up on mechanics and stated working on it myself I tested all the sensors and the only discrapanceies I found as the knock sensor the book i have says on a v6 it should read 8800 ohms but mind reads 100000 ohms, and it also says to unplug and read 5 volts refence and I read Ovolts and I don't have any error codes, does anyone out there know if I am suppose to have a ref Voltage on this the ref voltage on the 2.2 liter this comes from PIN A27 on the pcm and 5volts is THERE ANYBODY OUT THERE THAT MIGHT HAVE SOME IDEAS ON THIS tHANKS
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    I don't think the problem is with the knock sensor. I just replaced the knock sensor on my 4.3z. I ran it to and from work today with out the knock sensor, till I could get a replacement. The one thing it didn't do was cut out or miss.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Only Sensors with 3 wires have a reference voltage, 1 is ground, 1 is 5V and the other is sensor output voltage.
  • wmccrearywmccreary Member Posts: 10
    THANKS gonogo thats makes sense so even the test for the v6 is wrong because it is also a single wire.
  • jesse84jesse84 Member Posts: 1
    my s15 wont start. Im not getting any fire to my plugs..... i have replaced battery distrubutor cap and rotor, and still no luck.......the problem started when i shut the truck off after work one day......20 minutes later it wouldnt start...... any suggestions?
  • philscbxphilscbx Member Posts: 33
    Granted post is old, but no problem, just have it welded.
    I've wire fed mine and others without even removing manifold.
    Stop wasting money on this.
  • philscbxphilscbx Member Posts: 33
    1] You need to verify No Spark, verses No Fire.
    2] Miles.

    I'll guess right off the bat, you lost your timing chain.
    If it sounds like the engine spins over freely with no signs of compression strain on starter.

    That's usually how timing chains and Nylon gears end their life.
    To verify timing chain gone, remove distributor cap and rotate motor with starter.
    If rotor doesn't spin,,, Bingo! But could still fake you out if it does move.
    The chain may still have some traction, and now the timing is way off.

    You'll verify #1 on compression stroke and rotor pointing at #1 wire at cap.

    Replacing battery won't get you any more spark or fire more than you had if the battery still turns over the motor just fine.

    The ignition coils takes the small 11 -12 volts available and makes 30,000 to 50,000 volts at the plugs.

    To verify Spark, use a spare plug of anything and insert into any cable end, and keep the plug grounded to engine anywhere while engine rotates or you could taste a little kick start yourself.
  • philscbxphilscbx Member Posts: 33
    Spraying a ignition grade or better silicone spray is very good advice.

    I saw a guy do the puddle trick in front of me, and sure enough it died.

    I pulled out my can, and he was back up and under way.
  • philscbxphilscbx Member Posts: 33
    Sounds like plugged Exhaust
  • isenseeisensee Member Posts: 1
    My 97 4.3 4 cyl Sonoma with 60000 miles engine goes dead, just as if you turned off the switch. It starts back up again as if nothing was wrong. The other night everything went dead including the lights going out. It started righ up as if nothing was wrong. Any ideas?
  • doublek412doublek412 Member Posts: 1
    My truck starts and runs at first then soon starts to bog and pop, will go a little bit with light pressure on the gas. So far i've replaced the fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, front oxygen sensor, hollowed out the rear cat, fuel pressure tested good, fuel pump is about 3k miles old. what should be my next direction
  • michaelm5michaelm5 Member Posts: 7
    i have the same year truck and mine does the same thing.i believe its my fuel injectors
    ill let you know im changing them this week
  • michaelm5michaelm5 Member Posts: 7
    try replacing the idler pulley im pretty sure thats your problems
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    Hi there;
    I just bought a 2000 S10, 4 cylinder. I had owned a 6 cylinder S10 that I traded in for a new van last year. I needed something small to drive around locally, so I bought the 4 cylinder model. It seems to be in good shape with only 53,000 miles. What I would like to know from any one who has a 4 cylinder S10 are the problem areas with this engine. It's the old tech pushrod overhead valve engine. Any comments would be appreciated. Thank you.
  • 2000k15002000k1500 Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I have a 2000 Chevrolet K1500 with a 4.3L V-6. I know it's not an S-10 but I figure you guys would know the most about the 4.3. My question is when I first start the truck up there is a faint ticking noise coming from the engine and it is very prominent when accelerating. The engine has 82000 miles on it and seems to be in good working order. I do not know much about the 4.3 but am familiar with the 5.7. I guess I was just wondering what the ticking is and if I could eliminate it. I guess my thoughts were either the EGR valve or the lifters. Thanks for any information
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    You may have what's called a "piston slap". Check out the following link: www.pistonslap.com Good luck.
  • toneygtoneyg Member Posts: 19
    My question is on a engine swap from a 2.8 to a 91Buick 3800 block. Will this bolt up to the original 4x4 setup with minor mods?
  • gmcrcgmcrc Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 GMC Sonoma 4x4 with a 4.3L V-6. The oil cooler lines started leaking so I purchased new front and rear lines. I was able to replace the front line without any problems. I unbolted the rear line, pulled it toward the front of the engine, but I can not get either end to pass between the frame, oil pan, and engine mount. Can anyone give me any tips on getting the old rear oil line out and the new one in?
  • toneygtoneyg Member Posts: 19
    You will have to unbolt your motor mounts and raise engine up with a floor jack
  • dentrekdentrek Member Posts: 8
    I am presently having problems with surge and hasitiation when driving up hills or accelerating. Like I am pressing and releasing the accelerator. I have changed the fuel pump and filter. Seems to run better when filled with 93 octane gas but still does it. Found what I thought was a vacuum leak and replaced all hoses. Did not fix the problems. Can anyone help me with this problem? :sick:
  • jimmy250jimmy250 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 98 s10 2.2 and i hav a code coming up #0303 it is cylinder 3 miss fire (small) and i am wondering if this is common and what causes it
  • toneygtoneyg Member Posts: 19
    Let me give you some advice on this problem from experience. this sounds like from what you are describing, that your catyletic converter is stopped up. two things you can do is(a) have it replaced at about $150.00 or(b) remove it yourself. just take a sawzall with a metal cutting blade and cut it out. Then go to your local parts store and get you some exhaust pipe,clamps and 2 couplings. then tie your exhaust system back together. you will have to do this yourself, because a shop will not do this, but they will weld it for you . this will cost you about $25.00 to $30.00. this should solve your problem, also it will give you a little more power and performance,not to mention it will improve your gas milage. and it won't hurt your motor,because it is not computer controlled.Let me know if this solves the problem. thanks for the e-mail
  • toneygtoneyg Member Posts: 19
    This problem your are describing is coming from a computer malfunction. You need to replace the computer from under the passenger side dash panel. They are only $75.00 to $125.00 depending on where you get it from and the parts store will change out the control chip from your old one to the new one for you at no charge.(Autozone does this)
  • dentrekdentrek Member Posts: 8
    Thank you. You may have something there. I had my Converter replaced under warranty about 6 months ago. It was rattling really bad. I thinking that it may have broken off and might have stopped up my muffler. I will go have it checked.
  • dsheffiedsheffie Member Posts: 1
    Hello. I have a 1996 Sonoma 2 wheel drive, 4 cylinder pick up. Recently replaced radiator, thermostat and it's still runs hot only when I'm at a red light or idling - goes up to 210, then driving temp gauge goes back down to normal once I start moving again. This happens about 15 minutes after I start driving vehicle. Also, when I turn off engine, I can hear a bubbling sound, like it's boiling water, but, the overflow doesn't get hot. Other than this, the truck drives great. Any advice out there?
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    That era 4 cylinder engine (2.2 liter overhead valve engine) had a head gasket problem. I had a 95 Corsica with the same engine that need 2 head gaskets within 90 thousand miles. This could be your problem. Good luck.
  • lwicklinelwickline Member Posts: 2
    you need to see if the cooling fan is coming on at a stop. there not needed much when moveing
  • 90mustanggurl90mustanggurl Member Posts: 1
    A couple of weeks ago, I through a check engine light, it read that it was overheating. It has a new radiator in it and it had leaked a gallon of antifreeze put more in it and it leaked a half gallon, looked everywhere for a leak, couldn't find anything. Then we though it was an intake gasket and put pressure on it and nothing. It never heats over 210 and now, it seems to be only moving up one mark. What could be the problem? Does anyone else have this problem?
  • screwynoodlescrewynoodle Member Posts: 2
    Not sure if the Buick 3.8 will be the best bet. For an easy engine swap that should definately boost some HP while delivering the necessary torque, consider the 3.4L engine used in the early nineties Camaro. Forgo the FI intake, and swap in an Edelbrock 60 degree V6 four barrel intake, or similar. I have considered this option for my '83 S15 2WD, but haven't raised the funds yet for the engine.
  • msgtwlmsgtwl Member Posts: 1
    It has a 2.2L without the converter. Recently I started having problems with it missing when the engine is cold. Any idea where to start? Could it be a coil pack? I'm going to hook it up to a friends scanner tonight.
  • lwicklinelwickline Member Posts: 2
    have you seen any antifreez or was the radiator just low? if so you may have had a air pocket. after the air worked its way out the antifreez went down.thats my guess since you just put a radiator in. the way to stop the air pocket is to pour the antifreez slow. add a little at a time. and make sure it gets to operateing temp .as the thermostat opens the cooling well go down. hope that helps
  • toneygtoneyg Member Posts: 19
    luckily, I have experienced this same problem. as luck would have it, After I replaced the radiator,hoses, thermostat, heater core, freeze plugs,fan clutch and electric fan also. It turned out that the radiator cap was faulty. Replaced it with a new one and it solved my problem. Try this, and check your thermostatic fan clutch,or electric fan and relay, which ever you have on your truck. E-mail me back, if this solves your problem. Happy to be of assistance,thanks for asking.
  • victoryredvictoryred Member Posts: 2
    Hello. I am no genius when it comes to diagnosing problems with my truck. I have noticed in the past that smoke was coming out of the front of my 2000 s-10 2.2 rwd, I finished a transmission fluid change and was letting the truck idle while I checked for leaks and noticed that the smoke was coming out of a section around where the oil pan connects into the engine. There is also a piece of exhaust coming from the engine that crosses over that area. I have noticed some liquid buildup on the exhaust pipe crossing over. Could this be an oil seal leak and the oil hitting the hot exhaust is causing the smoke? Could this be an exhaust leak? Any tips would be appreciated. Truck has 110K on original engine/trans. Original exhaust.
  • toneygtoneyg Member Posts: 19
    One of two things could be the problem.(A). You have a rear main seal leak. Which is a little costly. Meaning,the oil pan and exhaust system has to be removed, and the crank shaft has to be removed to replace these seals. Or (B). It's your oil pan gasket, which also requires the removal of the exhaust system and the pan. You also have to raise the engine to do this. This would be the least expensive of the two. This needs to be repaired ASAP before the problem gets worse.
  • victoryredvictoryred Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the information...it's much appreciated!
  • pfallone001pfallone001 Member Posts: 2
    Buy aftermarket cooler lines and have them installed. Dont remove the lines. that is very dangerous not to mention a hack job
  • flashman3000flashman3000 Member Posts: 24
    I just bought a 99 GMC Sonoma 4.3L V-6. Experienced check light coming on/off over several weeks,hesitation during start up and while driving and fuel mileage is in the toilet (15-16mpg on average). Code came up P0300 "random multiple missfire". I changed plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter and dumped several cans of chemtool injector cleaner over 3-4 tanks. Dealer finds no problems and code light is off now, hesitation at idle is intermittent, seems to still be there slightly at normal driving speeds and fuel economy still in the toilet. Can't tell if it's ignition, tranny lag or something else. I'm pretty sure this model should be getting at least 20mpg on average. Anyone have any ideas?
  • flashman3000flashman3000 Member Posts: 24
    I have a 99 Sonoma, same problem, replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, injectors cleaned, still have problem...16-17mpg at 82,000 miles. Any luck finding your problem?
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    99 GMC Sonoma 4.3L V-6

    Obviously your PCM is detecting misfires but cannot isolate a perticular problem. On your model it is usally a dirty or bad connection at the crank sensor, or an intermittant problem with fuel pressure.

    Here is an explanation. The PCM interprets irractic changes in the pulses coming from the crank sensor as misfires. Basically, your vehicle skips a beat due to any number of reasons and the PCM sees it as random misfires. Check the plug to the crank sensor and see if it is oily or dirty. I would also invest in a fuel pressure guage and verify there isn't any drops in fuel pressure. You have a engine that needs at least 55-60 psi fuel pressure at all times, or the fuel injectors will not spray fuel. GM has a poppet inside the injectors that prevent opening unless there is sufficient pressure, even though they are being told to open by the PCM. Good luck.
  • toneygtoneyg Member Posts: 19
    What is the odometer reading. From past experience, I've found that 2 things can contribute to this kind of problems. 1 is the catyletic converter clogging up and the egr valve also. The other is you air filters and PCV valves sticking. So my advice would be to have these items checked
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles