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Comments
Well, glad you got it figured out and repaired!
The front shocks are giving me a rough, stiff ride now. There are no loose bolts, no leaks, & when jumping on front bumper, the car returns to normal position right away.
This makes me think the shocks are OK. An electrical connection to the top of the shock mounting bolt, I assume is part of the Auto Ride. Can anyone help me out on this problem. Should I replace the shocks or is the computer telling the shocks to adjust for road conditions or ???? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I love this car, it just went over 100k miles. It's Victory Red & has the #88 on the rear glass.
- you may also hear it pump about 15 secs after starting the engine.
It's minus 6 degrees outside and a toasty 20 degrees or so in my garage so I spent only 10 mins or so under my truck, but took some really good digital pics which I'm looking at in the warm comfort of my den...
My rear shocks (Delphi T6Y) have the rubber boot, one has some wet looking black fluid wettness around the bottom. I see my compressor, and what looks to be a 3/8" rubber hose heading up toward the gas filler door(?). But what I see attached to my shocks are two electrical connections coming out of the same wiring sheath -- one connects to the upper mount and the other a few inches lower, connecting to the top of the shock above the label.
So dumb question #1, what/where is the compressor filling? And #2 am I looking for an air leak or should I be more concerned with the fluid leak? I just want to be sure before I go buy the $330 ea shocks from NAPA, or the $687 ea shocks(!) from the Chevy dealer parts dept, that that is what's leaking and not some $5 rubber hose or a compressor fitting!
Any and all help would be much appreciated!
BTW, its a 2002 Chev Sub 1500 4x4
Thanks!
A dampening effect (the regular shock functions), keeping the wheel from hopping up and down.
A lifting function, raising the truck higher when there is a heavier load on it.
Sounds like the regular shock function is suspect if you are swaying a lot up front. Also have the ball joints and steering linkage checked.
Does anybody know where to buy replacement shocks for under $300 per?
Thanks
If you put in a resistor (the correct one), it will think the vehicle is at the correct height....no matter what height it is really at.
When I look at the section for autoride, it only shows the autoride which has the compressor, sensors, etc. There aren't different versions of autoride, like I find different versions of other things (across the different brands/capacities) Perhaps the 2004s are different than the 2007's.
Why exactly leads you to believe that it doesn't have the compressor system?
On to the switching over process. You unplug the elecrical connectors at the top stem of the front shock, and the top of the rear shocks. The front pull off, but are tight. Be careful, you do not want to damage the connectors. The rear unplug with a small catch on the plug. It may be easier to unplug when the shocks are unbolted and you can lower them away from frame. Replacement with Monroe's was just like a normal shock.
My Suburban, had gotten some minimal handling issues, like roughness over highway seams, and minor tracking issues. The Monroes have improved this, but I will be going on a 1000 mile trip over the Holiday, so will have more feedback then. The Check Suspesion notice came on after second drive, then, did not reappear on a later drive. I suspect it auto re-sets? I have seen other sites that have said you can have the Code removed from the SCM/BCM module. I may look into this later?
On another note, I did disconnect the electrical connectors and drive the vehicle, with original shocks. Big difference in ride(very bouncy). I had been told by the Alignment shop, that it appears one shock on both ends was leaking. Once I got them out, it is hard to confirm. All 4 shocks still had gas pressure. But ride is better after replacements.
Thanks for all the input to this and other Repair sites. I could never justify the $1000 plus for the shocks from GM/Delco for a vehicle this old.
If you don't have air shocks, you either need to kill the pump, or you need to fake it out so that it thinks the suspension is at the right height.
Any and all input would be greatly apreciated!
As a response to an older post, yes, getting the front end alligned is more difficult now. I have replaced all 4 ball joints and all steering linkages including the pitman arm and idler arm and they still had a hard time. check to see that you still have all of the correct angles on your linkages, e.g. correct ride height. If the torsion bars are cranked too high, or worn out, it makes it hard to get proper alignment.
Does anyone have any advice because when I got the Tech, not the Service Manager (we will call him the $ Guy), alone in the parking lot to discuss what he had done, he seemed to want to call "BS" on what the $ Guy is having him do. The Tech indicated that he installed a new Level Ride Compressor Assembly but left the system 'un-hooked' so the module did not blow the Solenoid again. He said that after he installed the new Assembly, the module kept the compressor open (versus closing during inflation) and therefore the "system" kept running and burnt out the solenoid. When I asked the Tech if he replaced the wrong item the first time (Compressor Assembly versus Module) and he said he didn't know.
Why, all of a sudden, is there a Regional/National shortage on the Module? Has GM been directing their Techs to troubleshoot/replace the wrong item? Any input or advice would be appreciated...
Did you get an answer to your question?
I just replaced both rear shocks ($900+) trying to get the 2" difference between left and right corrected. Only gained an inch...still sitting whoppsided. Next trip will be to dealer for another skinning if I can't figure it out myself
Any advice appreciated from anyone
Dan
Each side has a ride height sensor, to measure the distance between the frame and suspension, to then make the adjustment. Have you tried adjusting that linkage?
The reason I ask is that I have NEVER heard this system turn on, do not have any error codes and was told that my shock was blown in the rt rear. I would assume that I would hear and even possibly feel this system if it was working properly - right?
Thank you
were you towing, out of curiosity?
Is there any way to instruct the suspension to go to its lowest level temporarily, so that I can fit the hood under the obstruction in my garage?
Thanks.
If we can follow up with your dealership on this, please email socialmedia@gm.com with the following information: your name/Edmunds username, current phone and address, the last 8 digits of your VIN and approximate mileage, and the name of the involved dealership.
Look forward to hearing from you,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
I sent email.
turkey1
Thanks
For part numbers, try RockAuto.com.
Here's what I've tested:
If I jumper pins 30 and 87 on the ALC Relay socket, compressor runs and the shocks hold air
Resistance of exhaust solenoid is 18.6 ohms
I bought a replacement ALC Relay from Autozone and it made no difference. Original relay tests good - can feel and hear click.
Opened up the dryer and the desicant looks pratically new from rebuild 5 months ago.
Bench tested exhaust solenoid by jumpering pins F and B (I believe those were the pins) in the 7 Pin plug that attaches the compressor to the truck and I can hear it click.
Bench tested compressor function by jumpering pins A and G in the 7 pin plug and it kicks on
Yesterday, paid to have it scanned with Snap On Tech II and tested all the level sensors ... jacking up vehicle you can see the voltage change in a graph real time.
Code is C0660 which is typically the bad exhaust valve, but apparenlty, I'm in the .01%
Not sure how to perform these following tests:
"Test the control circuit of the exhaust solenoid valve for a short to voltage and an open. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems."
"Test the control circuit of the exhaust solenoid valve for a short to ground. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems."
Connector Part Information • 12110751
• 7-Way F Metri-Pack 280 Series (BLK)
Pin Wire Color Circuit No. Function
A RED 742 Battery Positive Voltage
B DK BLU 2249 Real Time Damping Compressor Exhaust Control
C BLK 407 Low Reference
D TAN 2252 Leveling Pressure Sensor Signal
E GRY 416 5 Volt Reference
F ORN 2440 Battery Positive Voltage
G BLK 1450 Ground
My wire colors on my 7 pin pig tail don't match these exactly. I have black, red , dark blue, grey, and then three little wires that run to the connector on the dryer that are orange, yellow, and green ....
From the Arnott compressor, I did blue to dark blue and white to grey and obviously black to black and red to red. Arnott suggested I swap the blue to gray and white to dark blue as a test. Going to do that, but hoping someone can help with how to perform the 2 tests above with the pins involved?
I have a voltmeter and a test lamp.