Dodge Durango

paisan · July 2000

Thanks for the info. They should have a Dodge Ram SUV by the time my 120k warranty runs out on my trooper (which the rate I drive will be about 3 or 4 years) Good luck and have fun with the Durango.

-mike

mgutowski · July 2000

Talking about all these TSBs, is there any place to get the details for these. I can clearly see the titles but there are no details. Everything I can find says you have to buy the details.

mgutowski · July 2000

Talking about all these TSBs, is there any place to get the details for these. I can clearly see the titles but there are no details. Everything I can find says you have to buy the details.

2k_cpr_d · July 2000

... I finally found it on the Durango Owners Club forum. It's a little long, but for those still holding onto the dream, it's worth it. I don't know the source, accuracy, or validity, so take it with a grain of salt or a 55 Gallon gas tank.

Rob b.

==========================================
New full size SUV from Dodge.........
==========================================

Tuesday June 13, 5:14 pm Eastern Time
DaimlerChrysler to build new SUV in Windsor, source
By Ian Karleff

TORONTO, June 13 (Reuters) - DaimlerChrysler AG
is poised to announce a major makeover for its Pillette
Road van plant in Windsor, Ontario, on Thursday that
will include an investment of C$1.5 billion ($1 billion) to
begin the assembly of a new sport-utility vehicle,
according to an industry source.

DaimlerChrysler (NYSE:DCX - news) released a
statement on Tuesday that it would make a ``major
announcement'' at the Pillette Road plant with
government, union and corporate officials attending.

``They're announcing a major investment at the facility
that they are going to stop producing full-sized vans
over the next couple of years and produce a full-sized
sport-utility by 2003-2004,'' said the source who
follows the Big Three automakers closely.

``They're looking at about a $1.5 billion Canadian
investment,'' added the source.

Currently, the Pillette Road plant's 2,400 workers
assemble the line of full-sized Dodge Ram vans,
churning out about 80,000 to 90,000 vehicles annually.

Six months following the phase-out of the van line,
DaimlerChrysler will start producing a Dodge branded,
full-sized, sport-utility vehicle (SUV), the first in its class
for the auto manufacturer, said the source.

A full-sized Dodge SUV would compete with Ford
Motor Co.'s (NYSE:F - news) Excursion and General
Motors Corp.'s (NYSE:GM - news) Chevrolet
Suburban, a segment that generates huge profits for the
industry.

The future of the Pillette Road plant has been in
jeopardy for some time as full-sized vans lost their
appeal with consumers and workers suffered as much
as 15 weeks of downtime each year.

The Canadian Auto Workers union made the Pillette
Road plant a top priority in contract bargaining last fall,
and managed to win a commitment from the automaker
for a $600 million paint shop at the location.

``We have been pushing them to put the shovel in the
ground for the new paint shop and to tell us what
product line they are going to put in there,'' said Buzz
Hargrove, president of the CAW union.

Hargrove said DaimlerChrysler will tell the union the
details of the announcement at 7 a.m. Thursday
morning.

``I assume it's the ground-breaking ceremony on the
new paint shop and, coupled with that, an
announcement of the new product line,'' added
Hargrove.

A DaimlerChrysler spokeswoman declined to give
details on Thursday's announcement, but said that Herb
Gray, Canada's Deputy Prime Minister, Windsor
Mayor Mike Herst and DaimlerChrysler Canada
chairman Ed Brust are scheduled to attend.

paisan · July 2000

That's great news, if they do it... Only time will tell.

-mike

Hold the Ramcharger Dream!

steve234 · July 2000

My wife's 93 Shadow has the same problem. It was because of a bad ground on the dash module. Unfortuneately, because it is an intermittant problem, it would never do it for the technician while under warranty. You might suggest that they try a secondary ground to see if that will help

cade1 · July 2000

still the same problem,still know answer!1999 d with 5.9 engine. every once in awhile i get a moaming sound from what seems to be the rite side of the d between the door and the engine the noise seems to happen when i'm just starting from a lite,coasting or just cruising at about 30 to 40 miles an hr.would appreciate any ideas or answers what it could be as the dealer hasn't a clue.
cademan

panzer948 · July 2000

Sorry cade1, I have never heard or know of one with that problem. Maybe you should visit the Dodge Durango Club and post a message there (www.durangoclub.com). It is a great group and very helpful with problems, aftermarket ideas, and offroading trips.

prairieman · July 2000

Hey ladies and gents!

I just bought a 24' Nash travel trailer to pull behing my 99 D 5.9.The trailer is 26'10" overall, weighs 4800 lbs with GVW of 7,000. We made a trip out to the rockies last weekend, and i experienced a lot (scary) of sway at speeds of 55 to 60 mph. I have ordered a Reese dual cam anti-sway device, (back ordered probably until christmas. In the mean time, i am wondering what the heck i am doing wrong! i have a good hitch, use the load levelers properly, and don't drive like a maniac (my wife may beg to differ). right now, one of those massive Ford SUV's are looking pretty good in the towing department compared to this Durango. If you have any ideas what might be "pushing me around" ..please post!

thanks!

Dan

mrboost · July 2000

Dont know much about travel trailers, but I would add the sway bars onto your system.

My father has a 99 D and Tows a 69 1/2 Road Runner on a car trailer with the anti sway bars. It tows very well, no problem. That trailer has to weigh 2000 lbs with a 4000 lb car behind it. For what it is worth, we used to use my brothers 92 DAK sport( short 6ft bed) 4X4 to tow it. No problems there, even with the shorter wheelbase.

I took my 2000 D out to Michigan and a friend took his 99 D and towed his 87 Shelby Charger GLHS with his trailer. Again, no problem since he had the the antisway bars. He towed like a maniac too, doing about 80 MPH at times. He averaged 12.9 MPG towing the GLHS.

Oh, I got 16.8 MPG on the trip to/from Michigan. Not bad, doing about 70-75 MPH. Gotta love these D's. It has 11,000 miles and still no problems at all.

later

prairieman · July 2000

Thanks Mrboost!

Question: Does your Dad and buddy have the dual cam type (Reece) sway system, or do they use the "shock absorber" type anti-sway. As you can tell by my nomenclature, i am a novice in this area. My understanding of the Dual Cam system is that it prevents sway by stabilizing the load. The second type, (which does look like a shock attached with a mini-trailer ball to the hitch, then back to the draw bar on the trailer) reduces the amount of sway after it starts. Now that the Dual Cam system is back ordered to heaven knows when, my dealer is trying to sell me on the other system, (to get me off his back, I think). Any suggestions as to which is the better??

Thanks again, and I would love to be looking at that 69.5 Road Runner! Is it a 426 Hemi?

Dan in Calgary

mrboost · July 2000

The trailer they own is made by "Over The Road" and the bars came with the trailer. They lock into the holes on each side of the hitch. They must be simlar to the "cam" type you are referring to. They dont have shocks on them.

The Road Runner is a 440 six barrel. It was midyear intro, hence the 69 1/2. All were six barrel cars.

Good Luck.

paisan · July 2000

Just a guess, but I'd say that a car trailer is less likely to sway because they are much more aerodynamic than a camper. I towed a 2500lbs car trailer with my 2200lbs escort on it behind my '97 rodeo @ 75mph for about 200 miles w/o swaying (and no weight distributing hitche either). Perhaps the camper trailer is improperly loaded (too much or too little toungeweight?) These are just guesses as I'm not an expert on big trailers (i've been towing small boat trailers for 10 years)

-mike

briese · July 2000

From eveyone's experience, I'm looking for a new D, I have a Grand Voyager now and wonder if anybody has traded in a vehicle and looked up the Kelly blue book price for a trade in value, when I did it told me my van was worth $13,500 for good condition, it has 38,000 miles on it and is loaded. Found the D, I liked and went to talked to the dealer and he offered me $10,500 for my van, told him he was nut's, all the used car lot's for this make and model are selling them for $17,000 to $20,000. So my real question is, has any body got for trade in what the Kelly blue book said a vehicle was worth? Time's ticking, want to get $2000.00 rebate before end of July.
thank for any feedback.

jeep4u · July 2000

What year is your Voyager? Forget what Kbb says. That is only a guide line, and not a good one at that. In a perfect world, your van might be worth what Kbb says. I find it hard to believe a dealer would ask 10k more for a van than he paid for it. Doesn't happen. Kbb does not take into consideration what the market is doing in your area. Also, if the used mini-van market is slow right now, it will affect the value. Another thing, dealers know what these vans are bringing at the auction, and if the van is only bringing between 10K and 11K, not a dealer on the planet will give you more than market value. Would you invest money into something that will give you a lesser return than what you paid? Of course not and this is exactly how dealers think. Trust me on that one. No dealers care what Kbb or Edmunds has to say. They(Kbb&Edmunds) are here for the consumer, not the dealer. And as far as what he is retailing them for, depends greatly on year, miles and availability. We all know what it retails for is never the price he will settle on. Doesn't matter what retail is, how much will he sell it for in the end.

Here's what I would suggest. First, throw away what Kelly says, it will only frustrate you. Second, go to 2 or 3 other dealers and see what they say. Which ever one gives you the most, naturally deal with them. What I will tell you is they all will be within 100-800 dollars of each other. Depends on how well one of them will do at resale. Now one dealer may do well with mini-vans, and chances are that is the one who will give you the most. On the other hand, one may not do so good therefore is not willing to step up to the plate. That is reality.

The other suggestion is to sell it on your own. Don't worry about the rebate, it will continue right through August and beyond. Trust me on that one too.

briese · July 2000

Well you are probably right, but tonight I just got $13,500 for my van. So I'm happy about that, just can't beleive that some dealer's are just out to take a person for everything they are worth. Just think there would be somewhere a person could find out what you might excpect, and not get a $3,000 shock. Kinda blew any hope's of getting my D. By the way, the van is a 1998. New tire's and brakes all around. But that didn't matter to them. Well I will be one bad word of mouth for them, and that will probably cost them well over the $3000 they would not negotiate on. All in all, just one of the worst salesman/finance manager tag team's I dealt with.

jeep4u · July 2000

Sounds like the other guy was trying to steal your trade, and sometimes that does happen and it really is to bad. Because it gives the good dealers who are truely wanting to earn your business a bad name. I am very happy for you. I know very little about your van, but a 1998 for 10,500? Did this other guy have his head up his [non-permissible content removed]? I have a liitle saying I live by.

I would rather keep one person happy who will tell a 100 people, than to anger one person who will tell a 1000 people.

puts · July 2000

I have a 98 Durango that I brought back in probably 1 month after I got it with a real odd sound. It seemed to me it only appeared when I accelerated from a stop sign. It is a loud whirling sound and only happens when I had the air conditioner on. I have recently noticed it when I have had my vents open also. I was told from the dealer it has to do with the air being sucked in when you accelerate. Does this sound right to anyone? Is this even the same problem your having?

puts · July 2000

I just got my Durango back after 4 days at the dealer with Lugnut/stud problems. I was told first that 2 on each rear tire where stripped and the car was unsafe to drive. When I called the service dept they then told me they just "snapped" and that it happens a lot on cars but hardly ever on Durango's. Then the Service Mngr told me it has been happening a lot on their lugnuts and a women changing her flat tire had one "snap" off in her hand. I said this sounds like this is a serious problem and the service mngr agreed. At that point I insisted they change the bolts on all 4 wheels. They changed all of them on the rear tires only and when I picked up the paperwork it was writtened that they were "cracked". It has been 4 days and the owner of the dealership has not returned my call. Should I insist on the front tires being replaced, too? Has anyone else had this problem?

jeep4u · July 2000

First, don't hold your breath for the owner to call you, this is why he has a Service Manager. Second, call Dodge Customer Service, go to 4adodge.com and get the 800 number. Find out if a TSB(Technical Service Bulletin) has been issued concerning lugnuts. If there is nothing wrong with the front ones, they will not change them. But to keep you happy, they should if it makes you feel better and the small expense should be taken care of by the dealer. Minor cost to dealer. Worth it for future business from you. But be polite and do not be demanding. Otherwise you and the dealer will get into a pissing contest.

briese · July 2000

In some post a while back, it was not the lug nut studs that were the problems, but it was the dealers over torque the nut's, they are supposed to use a torque wrench, but if they just take a impact wrench to it, they could easily stretch the threads. I read a post a while back about them over torqueing and uneven torqueing the front stud's which can cause the rotors to warp and wear Just something I'm going to check as soon as I pickup my D.

jeep4u · July 2000

Youre right, a torque wrench should be used and if one is not and they are over torqued it will cause problems.

paisan · July 2000

For 10 years I've been using a cross bar to rotate my tires and never once have my studs or lug nuts caused a problem. How could a rough and tough truck like a durango have these problems unless they are defective?

-mike

aussiewanker · July 2000

It's a well known fact amongst DOC members -
Lug nuts on the early 98 D's are prone to snapping - they are too soft.

Make sure you have the dealer replace ALL of them, otherwise you'd be prone to the same failure in the future.

rcarboni · July 2000

There are obvious problems with many lugs in production, and I sometimes wonder if they are all coming from the same manufacturer. The Expedition as well as the 4Runner have both had recalls because of defective lugs. There is definitely a problem with Durangos, but the problem may be a combination of many factors.

First, as stated, the lug nuts are over-torqued from the factory. If you can't get them off by hand, take the truck back to the dealer and have them removed, because they have a very good chance of snapping. When installing, don't torque over 100ft.lbs. You may also want to use anti-sieze.

Second, the lug nuts are not solid pieces, but instead core threads with a softer metal outer covering. This type of lug nut is very prone to stripping when installed or removed with an impact wrench. I would recommend replacing the stock lug nuts with a good aftermarket solid set such as those made by McGuard.

Additionally, don't ever remove or install the lug nuts with the wrench on an angle, and don't stand on the wrench to try to loosen them. I have snapped many lug nuts on many vehicles until I realized that it was my own doing.

Finally, don't let any shop start the lug nuts with the impact wrench. TELL THEM to start the lug nuts by hand, and only torque them to 80-100ft.lbs. If you don't watch them doing it, then check them yourself before leaving the shop.

I had two studs stripped by Sears because they started the nuts in the wrench. They are not easy to remove and replace if you can't get the nut off. I finally had to hacksaw one off so that I could remove the stud.

rdg1 · July 2000

I am considering a Durango, could someone please advise the following: For towing, should I go with the 360 or the new 4.7, either coupled with the 3.92 rear? Gas mileage to expect on each. Anyone know when the 2001 models will hit the lots and any changes with the '01's???? Thanks!

mrboost · July 2000

I would get the 5.9 if you want to tow. Get the FT4wd and the 3.92 with the LSD.

I have a 2000 loaded. I get about 14 MPG around town and 16.5-17.0 on the highway. Others on the DOC seem to get the same. You may get a little higher with the 4.7 but not very much.

Of course it depends on how much you mash the throttle. Start blowing away mall runners at stop lights

and the fuel economy goes down the tubes.

Later

Mike

gemini6369 · July 2000

I am about to purchase a 2000 or 2001 D and I narrowed down my SUV to what options I wanted (too much in the SLT+ package I didn't need). My questions are w/ the "LSD" do you have to go with the 3.92 rear and is the FT4WD needed for Maryland (15-20 days of snow/year)? Right now I'am getting the 4.7 V-8 w/ PT4WD. I looked at the LSD to hopefully get me out of the occasional "slippery situations" but will these 2 options make a noticeable chance in gas mileage?

Thanks for any help

Eric

sjdowlin · July 2000

Engine and rear end choice will depend on how much you want to tow and how often. I've got an 00 4.7 with 3.55 gears and part time 4wd. It pulls my 3500lb trailer (2500 lb boat and 1000 lb trailer) like a champ, even in mountainous terrain. If you are planning to towing 5000 lbs or more, step up to the big motor.

14 to 17 mpg is a good range to expect with either engine, it will be a lot worse if you are heavy on the gas though.

As for the '01, I've heard some minor cosmetic changes are on the way. No date though.

puts · July 2000

Thanks to all for the info, I'll be calling Dodge Cust Svc tomorrow.

captain13 · July 2000

The answer to one of your questions is yes you can get limited slip with the 3.55 rear end. I know because I have one. There have been a few posts that talk about the 3.92 gearing being faster off the line, especially if you are towing something. I have noticed that mine seems a little sluggish pulling away from a stop. The 3.55 is supposed to get slightly better gas though which is one of the reasons that I went with it. Even with the 4.7l I have gotten to know my gas station a lot better.

briese · July 2000

Any recomodation on skid plates, was going to have them put on by dealer, but he tells me that he can't get the plate for the fuel tank, but you can get them from the factory if you ordered them with the vehicle. But I did not, don't plan on doing any serious of roading, but it would be nice just in case. Is there aftermarket part's that are just as good if not better than mopar part? Any sugegestion's will be appreciated.

msjr · July 2000

Has anyone heard about any Durango incentives in August?

jeep4u · July 2000

What state do you live in and are you going to lease or purchase? This does make a diff. Not all states will have the same incentives.

msjr · July 2000

I live in New Jersey and I plan to lease. I know that there is something until August 7th, but I am hoping they will try to clear out 2000's and give an incentive after the 7th.

grat1 · August 2000

I own a 98 DD SLT+ 5.2 3.92 rear.I added K&N filter Gibson Cat Back exhaust.During break in I was getting 12-13 mpg in local stop & go.Now with 21k miles I average only 10 mpg.This has been for the last 10k miles.I have a very light foot.I always like to push my vehicles to thier my milage maximum.The milage I am getting is with the A/C off 90% of the time.I do get 15-17 mpg on the highway.In a possibly related problem I get a loud engine ping and marbling with use of 87 octane only during warm weather.The temperature gauge shows the same operating temp. in hot or cold weather.Using premium fuel solves the problem

msjr · August 2000

Does anyone know what changes will be on the 2001 D?

Any safety improvements? When do they go into production?

Thanks!

larryb9 · August 2000

This is a follow-up to my post15 about a clicking chattering noise after towing. The problem may have been found! That is the good news. The problem is a worn crank thrust bearing on my 5.2 L motor. I started getting what I thought was belt noise as in a loud screeching sound. When investigating this my wife noticed the pulley that attaches to the crank moving to the front when I reved the engine. This produced the sound. This is a major problem that may require a new motor and at the very least a new crank and lower end. I only have 24,000 miles on the truck. Down time is at least a week and maybe a month. Dodge is working with me about a loaner and I will know more if they will authorize one or not when they see what the damage. I hope I do not miss the rest of the boating season as I won't have a tow vehicle.

rcarboni · August 2000

grat1,

There have been many reports of pinging from Dakota owners, and many different solutions. Here is a basic list of potential problems/fixes:

1. Carbon buildup - have a shop do a carbon cleaning of the cylinders.
2. Spark plug wires crossing - check wires and re-route if necessary.
3. Belly pan gasket - if the bottom of the intake manifold is very oily, particularly at the rear of the engine, then the gasket may need replacement.
4. Distributor/rotor - replace these with higher quality brass contact units. Use Accel or Borg-Warner.
5. Sensors - some have replaced/cleaned the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and/or MAP sensor and found that the pinging was cured.
6. Plugs - set plug gaps correctly.
7. Thermostat - use of a lower temp thermostat may help the problem, but is generally not a cure.

Additionally, I would have the fuel pressure checked, and if possible, the air/fuel ratio when pinging occurs. A lean condition will cause pinging under load. An inline fuel pressure regulator to increase the pressure would help if this is the problem. Also, larger injectors would help, but only use them if you are sure that you are running lean.

rcarboni · August 2000

There is also a TSB out to "re-flash" the PCM so that the timing is retarded slightly, and the air/fuel curves adjusted. I wouldn't recommend this fix because you will suffer performance and MPG, and if it doesn't cure the pinging, you cannot get it reversed.

paisan · August 2000

Larry, I'd make them give you a loaner D with a hitch. That's ridiculous that you would have to give up the rest of the boating season because DC gave you a bum car...

-mike

grat1 · August 2000

Thanks for the tips.I dont think it is carbon causing my pinging as it began with only 2k miles.Dodge checked said everything ok must use premium even though manual calls for 87 octane.They stated if I return with same complaint they will charge me,if pinging damages engine I will be liable.Chrysler custumer service agrees with dealer.Any hints as to why I get only 10 mpg with 5.2? all engine specs check according to dodge.

paisan · August 2000

The dealer said that you have to use premium, even though the manual say's to use 87 and they won't find out what is wrong with it? Perhaps you need to re-set the ECU? I'd be up in arms if I only got 10mpg and was using 92 octane....

-mike

rcarboni · August 2000

There's obviously something wrong if you are only getting 10mpg and you are driving with a light foot. Do you live in high altitude or drive very hilly terrain? Is your tire pressure at 32-35psi?

Pinging and bad mileage signal to me a problem with spark more than anything, although it could also be the belly pan gasket. Many people replace their plug wires with heavy-duty ones to get maximum spark and prevent crossfire. I've always done this with all my vehicles and usually use MSD or Accel.

If you're still stuck, try contacting some members of the DML (www.dakota-truck.net). As I said, many Dak owners have reported pinging problems, and have worked with and without Dodge techs to come up with solutions. They may be able to lend a hand.

rcarboni · August 2000

Found this link for sales figures thru June. The D is number 5, but losing ground to the Explorer???!!! I also would have never thought that the Chevy Blazer sells so well.

rcarboni · August 2000

Hit that post too quick. Here's the link:
http://www.autosite.com/editoria/asmr/svolsu.asp

madf26 · August 2000

I own a 2000 Durango 4WD. When I'm on the highway doing approx 60-65 and hit a bump (pavement buckle, pot hole), the Durango tends to sway side to side before settling down. I haven't noticed this on my Ford Explorer 2000. Has anyone noticed this? Is there a problem with shocks? Is it that the standard shocks aren't good enough and need to be upgraded. Thanks for any input.

Mike F.

rcarboni · August 2000

Very normal to sway after hitting a bump, and has more to do with the sway bar than the shocks. Hotchkis offers a larger anti-sway bar that many Durango owners have praised. Also, Kenny Brown may be offering an "X" brace that is pictured here:
http://www.mid-mich-mopars.org/dakxbrace.htm

All I can say about the Explorer is that the suspension is tuned for the road, not the rough. Almost all reasonably priced vehicles that perform well off-road have stiffer suspensions that produce wheel-hop and sway. I have experienced this in Jeeps, Broncos, and 4x4 pickups.

bpeebles · August 2000

(rcarboni) Have we forgetton that Ford adds in all the fleet, Rental...etc vehicles when they 'report' their numbers?

Also, to be fair, the GMC and Chevy numbers should be added for 'like' vehicles. (Jimmie + Blazer...etc)

Personally, I prefer it that way. I like a unique ride... I want to be different from most of the others on the road.

Wait a minute.... I feel a slogan coming on....

Dodge...Different!

bpeebles · August 2000

(rcarboni) I find the Chrysler PT Cruzer numbers VERY interesting for a first-year offering.

This is the first TRUCK that Chrysler has offerend in many years... yes it is truly a TRUCK based on government specifications. It is sold thru Chrysler instead of Dodge to circomvent fleet-MPG regulations.

Dodge Durango

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