Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
There are (2) actuators!
The blinking light should go from blinking to solid, I assume that is what is happening?
Did you reset the computer defalt after installing the new acturator? If not try that!
(3) quick on and off turns of the ignition switch, then start it.
Besides the 4wd Service light, has anyone experienced this and have a suggested fix? I've tried driving with an onboard computer to pull any DTC's but no I have had no luck, it says everything is working as expected and there is nothing to clear. I even tried unhooking the battery overnight hoping a truck ferry would come by and make all my troubles go away :P
As for the 4wd / AutoTrac I pulled the switch from the dash and did not see any cracks in the solder and hooked it up to a multimeter and all is good. Would it still be a good idea to buy the new switch? I hear the transfer case motor click but it does not engage and stays on 2wd. I am able to get it to go into auto and 4wd at times so I'm leaning towards the transfer case motor. Any other suggestions? I tried hitting it lightly with a hammer as possibly the motor could have been ceased. When it's in 4wd or auto it performs normally. I was going to go buy a new motor and replace it myself but if there are any other suggestions, i'd like to save myself the 533 bux and time doing it. GM keeps telling me it's a known issue and it's either the switch or the motor and quoted around 1500.00 for all the work and testing. WTF! And i'm now over 36000 miles and out of warranty. :mad:
If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know! Thanks!
http://stores.channeladvisor.com/Auto-Parts-Direct-To-You/GMC/Sierra%201500%2c25- 00%2c3500/
http://stores.channeladvisor.com/Auto-Parts-Direct-To-You/GMC/Sierra%201500%2c25- - 00%2c3500/
I was also over my miles and now out of warranty by 1200 miles (37,200) and was expecting to pay the 97.00/hr rate, but my service advisor talked to his manager and they covered it under warranty to troubleshoot and fix the root cause. GO LEE JOHNSON CHEVROLET, KIRKLAND WASHINGTON!!
The dealer told me it was most likely a bad connector in the instrument panel cluster or bad cluster its self. Not much help, sorry!
Note - the last part I had replaced the (encoder motor) on the transfer case. I was told the transfer case was cracked near the selector shaft bearing. The bearing corroded causing the encoder motor to burn up.
Here's my recent post on my fix:
I just got my truck out of the shop at Chevy and after 2 days of looking at it including the switch and transfer case motor, they found that the main ground for my truck had a bad connection and was loose. They cleaned the corrosion around the ground and tightened it and all my problems were solved. I was almost to the point of getting a new transfer case motor and switch after the recommendation from Chevy, but since I had other intermittent phantom lights also going off, they called in the electrical technician to take a look. They found 44 DTC's that stated "unable to contact..." and that's how they traced the ground. Once they fixed the ground issues, my 4wheel drive and auto trac engage within 2 seconds and doesn't switch from 2wd to 4wd and vise versa.
I was also over my miles and now out of warranty by 1200 miles (37,200) and was expecting to pay the 97.00/hr rate, but my service advisor talked to his manager and they covered it under warranty to troubleshoot and fix the root cause. GO LEE JOHNSON CHEVROLET, KIRKLAND WASHINGTON!!
kcram - Pickups Host
I also have another problem with hard "clunk" shifting when the transmission is upshifting. It downshifts smooth. This only happens after the truck has run for 15 - 20 minutes. After turning off the truck for 10 minutes or so, like when getting gas, it will shift smooth as silk. Any ideas. Thanks for any help.
The reason for the failure of the encoder motor on my 4wd was due to a bearing freezing on the sector shaft, this shaft connects to the encoder motor. The transfer case was cracked allowing water/salt to corrode the sector shaft bearing resulting in the encoder motor failure.
The transfer case crack... I don't think it was a crack from impact. I think it was a bad casting from the factory because of the location of the crack. JB weld in the crack fixed the problem along with a new sector shaft bearing and encoder motor.
link for encoder motor for your truck
http://stores.channeladvisor.com/Auto-Parts-Direct-To-You/Items/1420002-gmc%20c%- 20series?
dealer cost to fix this apx. $1200.00
I backed up to turn around and when I put it back into drive it made a grinding noise and the front wheels quit pulling.
I tried several times and it would never engage again just the grinding, like gears not fully meshed.
When I push the button it feels and acts like it engages 4hi and/or 4lo.
I've read most of the posts on here and most just say theirs just quit working and it's the actuator motor.
Is it possible that it is only partially engaging?
Could it be the autolocking hubs?
I haven't had time to check if the axles or drive line are turning, dark to work dark when I get home.
I just need some advice for when I start on it this weekend.
My truck has 172,000 on it and I've never had any other problems except fuel pump (twice).
Any help in the right direction would be a greatly appreciated.
Thanks
osweeks
Common 4wd problems
Speed sensor bad ( this is a recall on some trucks check with your dealer) - hard shifting, cluncking noise when shifting
Bad dash selector switch (bad solider or connector) - not lights lite on the selector switch.
Font axle actuator - No front wheel drive
Transfer case encoder motor - will not shift out of or go into 4hi or 4 low
my guess speed sensor or encoder motor
Thanks,
osweeks
Any thoughts
~Ben
More often than not when i have tried to do that i get a clashing of gears. Sometimes it shifts just fine,other time is doesn't. Shifting seems to be temp. related also.
I know the manual says i can shift while moving,but the clashing makes me nervous.
I have been stopping and shifting in and out of 4 wheel with no issues.
Am i overly concerned,or is my technique wrong. :confuse:
Thanks
Did you find out what the problem was with yours?
Anyone else know?
Thanks
Egor
1. selector switch, located inside the cab
2. differential actuator, located on the frt. diff
3. encoder motor, located on the transfer case
4. in your case vacuum module, location ?