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Took your advice, and contacted Montgomery. Via 1st email, they quoted me $19.7K OTD, which equates to $18.5 for me (6.25 TX tax). Unfortunately, I'm located 1000 miles away!!! So debating my next move: $250 airfare + 16 hour drive / pay to have it shipped / take their quote, and see if anyone here will match/beat it. Thanks again for sharing your experience...
So, I said I wouldnt be getting that, then he called back a couple days later saying the rebates had changed and he could only give us 6k off of the sticker.
My thoughts are this dude is playing me and was planning on recouping a grand but quoting me an outrageous price for the add on.
I cannot believe they are so stingy with an 08 vehicle that gets poor gas mileage.
I put a 500 deposit down on the car BEFORE he said the rebates changed; however, he said he cannot honar that because the car never was accepted.
What should I do?
so during the test drive, the sales guy says, "dont know if you're aware, but right now we're taking $7K off our 08's." i didnt even have to mention the ad! i said, "ok, that sounds like a good price." we got back from the test drive, and he asked, "so were you just looking, or are are you wanting to write this up?" i told him to start the paperwork. he asked how i was paying, & b/c it was cash, they didnt need to run credit. 5 minutes later he walks back with the sales order. sure enough, $24,385 msrp was written up as -- $17,385 + TTL = $18,687.24 OTD.
obviously, a completely flawless transaction. will happily post the salesmans name & dealership after taking delivery monday. now, as long as they dont start offering $10K off msrp in a couple weeks, ill be a happy camper!
Wow! First of all, sounds like you were not only getting the deal, but getting it on a dealer exchange (DX). I am not as familiar with Mazda's process on this, but wow- good job. The only time either dealer really gets benefit from a DX is if 1) high demand vehicle with strong front end profit, 2) trading for a vehicle you REALLY need- maybe a first year you have low or no stock on or if you need to hit a minimum sales figure to qualify for next years inventory baselines.
Hail!? That dealer did the right thing (by walking away). Always say "Hail No!!" to a hail car. They look good on a sunny lot, even better if there is a light mist in the air, but wait until you see it under a fluorescent light. Plus, depending on the state, it's permanently on the title.
I only had one experience with a hail storm on the lot, but it was bad (East coast, near the water, not a lot of hail). Every car (250-300) received a fair amount of damage,
Every state is different, but for us (MD/DE/VA), we had to disclose hail damage (not in ad's, but on buyers order and addendum sheet) on all NEW vehicles. Used didn't matter.
At that time, we had 5% money (end of year), strong incentives, and about 20% insurance money on each car. It was a strong 2 months for profit, but I didn't like selling them. John Doe may not see/care, but once you've noticed, you see it every time. I haven't bought a used car without being able to see it under a straight tube fluorescent light (easiest way in my opinion- just sight the overhead bulb reflection and follow it, if that straight bulb gets a sudden bend in one spot, Bobs your uncle) since.
Not sure how your deal got that far without disclosure, but very happy you didn't get a hail car.
Just realize three things and you'll get a "good deal" every time:
- Your trade isn't worth what you think it is. Yes, I know, you just put tires on it, and wipers, and a battery....it just doesn't matter. Sorry. the new buyer won;t pay extra either.
- A "good deal" isn't always the drop dead best price. You need service, will they give you a loaner (get it in writing, even if just on the "we owe" sheet), look at reviews for the dealership. A "good dealer" will get you every incentive he can if it doesn't affect his bottom line. Rebates and factor cash (like loyalty money) doesn't go to him anyway, he should want you to have it if he cares bout his customers.
- The dealer HAS to make a profit. C'mon, no matter what you think of dealers, it's a business. And the market isn't doing well. And you want them to be there when you need service. And the salesman has a family too. Now, that profit should be fair, and that's what you negotiate.
i was waiting until it was "official" (aka took delivery), but as we've emailed a few times, and are heading over tomorrow for pickup, confidence is high this will be completed. now, if during the test drive, black smoke is bellowing from the exhaust, i'll be singin a different tune, but until then, the dealer is:
Russell & Smith Mazda / Houston, TX. The Sales Mgr is David Rawls and my salesperson was Fred Session. That said, we did not do any negotiating whatsoever. Spent more time waiting in line for gas during hurricane Ike than I did purchasing this vehicle....
However, I saw this review of that dealership online, check it out.
http://www.edmunds.com/dealerships/Texas/Houston/RussellSmithMazda/fullsales.457- 80.oldNew.html
Yes, I too have heard various stories (charging xtra for lojak, warranties, etc). That was why I kinda wanted to wait until after delivery to let you know who it was.
I look at it like this: The sales guy already wrote up the sale sheet, and the numbers match exactly what their 1/4 page newspaper ad posted. Will bring a certified check for that exact amt, not a penny more. I saw the car in-person, on the lot, and they are prepping it as we speak.
I suppose it's possible for finance to muck it up... somehow... but if they do, I'll simply get up & leave. And should that happen, I will let every auto-related site, blog, etc know all about my experience. Such will also be the case if all goes well... a no-hassle $24K c-suv for $17K.
Will let you know how it plays out tomorrow!
For October 1-31, Mazda is offering 0% on the CX7. This mean that they won't come down in price as much? I read through their terms, I didn't see anything as such....
Hi, would this be the manufacturer to dealer incentive (which is about $3750 this month)? or is this an additional rebate? thanks!
Yes, it is. Here's the simple calculation for October: take the invoice price of the trim level you want, add in the invoice price of the options, add destination, subtract $5500.This will get you within about $200 of what any dealer can do (not necessarily what they will do). Depending on state law, some of the discount may escape tax. Others fees like doc prep are for you and the store to hash out.
Hi Des5,
Thanks for your reply. So if I am understanding this correctly I can deduct approx ~$5500 from invoice price (if I am not financing thru them) to use as a guideline when negotiating? That would sound like a pretty awesome deal on the 08's. Thanks!
Bought my car from a dealer really close to me, got 7k off, paid a little more then I wanted, but also got more car. THANK GOD ITS OVER
Congrats!!!
I had my manager run a 2008 CX-7 Sport AWD with the 8 way power driver seat and monnroof/6cd package MSRP $28,195 and we can sell for $25,000 plus your tax and fees on a purchase for 60 months is $517.89 , 72 months is $451.58 with $0 out of pocket.
On a lease with $0 out of pocket with 15,000 miles a year for 36 months your payment is $557.40.
I had already told her I wanted specifics, no mention of interest rate or which fees in particular she's talking about. Of course I'm trying to price here from invoice up rather than deal in payments. It looks to me from the postings here that I should be more in the 18-19k range, although the invoices listed at Edmunds are 2009 not 2008 so I'm not entirely sure where to begin.
Thoughts, suggestions? thanks.
Go down to the dealership, pick out the car you want, tell them such and such a dealer is offering you 7k off of the sticker but its far away and the dealer you are at is closer, will you beat it, they will try and haggle you and say I can maybe do 6k, then they will say 6500, then they will ask you what will it take to get you to buy this car, then you say 7k off the sticker, and they will give it to you.
When I went to the dealer to buy mine, I was there for 6 hours, and not 1 customer came into the building, NOT 1!, THESE CARS ARE NOT MOVING AND NOW IS THE TIME TO BUY,
"...a 2008 CX-7 Sport AWD with the 8 way power driver seat and monnroof/6cd package MSRP $28,195 and we can sell for $25,000 plus your tax and fees on a purchase "
They're not even taking the full manufacturer to dealer incentive of $3750 off. What a bunch of loonies they are...
I agree that you're going to be way ahead of the game with purchasing a new one vs. the buyout option. Also I think $25k will get you an 08 CX-9.
Still searching for my magic number...Good Luck to you!
Running the MSRP numbers, I'm off by 175, there must be a couple more small options on this car, so figure another 150 invoice.
AWD Sport 23811
Seat 305
Bose/Roof 1379
Misc Opts. 150
Destination 635
Advertising Coop ~200 (varies by area)
Total Invoice 26480
Less 5500 = 20980
I would tell them you will pay any dealer anywhere 21130 + tax and tags, and the first one to step up gets the business. Some stores will test to see how ignorant you are about the hidden incentives. Generally once you tell them what you know, they come around.
Thanks for your reply. So if I am understanding this correctly I can deduct approx ~$5500 from invoice price (if I am not financing thru them) to use as a guideline when negotiating? That would sound like a pretty awesome deal on the 08's. Thanks!
That's correct, if you give up the 0% financing. The dealer will likely offer you other terms, but you must shop those yourself, as what you get will depend on credit score, credit crisis, etc.
In my opinion Mazda always overprices the cars to start with but gives it all up+ at the end of the model year. Even back in 2005 I bought my 6i for 5500 off sticker. Where else can you get a turbo CUV for 18K base?
Any info (for future purchases) is appreciated!
Des, I definitely agree about the "where else can you get..." comment. I paid $17K+ttl for mine, and that's equivalent to a loaded Corolla!! :P
I'll use these strategies and get back to you, probably with more questions! But hopefully with the details of a good deal!
So, if the $5500 in discounts equates to: 4000 finance discount, 1000 quota spiff, and 500 loyalty savings, then they're going to say they already included it in their discount.
Of course, it never hurts to ask!
Funny thing is, I bet the dealers still make alot of money on the cars. the get reimbursed all of the rebate money and splan money right?
See my post #529. I am graciously sharing my painstaking research gathered last month while shopping for the FWD Sport I bought two weeks ago, updated based on this month's experiences shared graciously by others here. The goal is not to rip off dealers, merely not be ripped off ourselves.
I ordered the roof racks, aero package, and splash guards online fro cheap and will have them intalled for about 50 bucks.
'08 AWD Touring no options: MSRP 27835 Invoice 26077.
26077 - 5500 + 200 (advertising, varies by region) = 20777.
Reasonable bottom line offer would be 20927 + taxes.
Looks to me like they're using last month's numbers to keep about $800 in their pocket.
I am going to push for 7500 off on my next cx7
I was watching this forum for the last few days,,, it is full of great info,,, and I really appreciate everbody's posting here.
I think of buying 08' CX-7 Sport, the base model :confuse: .... but since I am after the 0% APR offer for 60 months,, I have 2 questions:
- how hard is to get the 0% APR? what credit score they want. I do not want to put anything down.
- how much discounts can I get with the 0% APR?
Thanks a lot for everybody.
Unless you live in a state with weird regulations (don't know of any that apply to this situation off the top of my head, please correct me if I am wrong), you still get "new" vehicle, never titled (dealer doesn't count), and warranty doesn't start until you drive off the lot.
This is as close as you will ever come to "stealing" a car without going to jail :P
If TMV stays close to residual, you can get out in 2 years with little to no loss. I have never seen a better option on a new car buy (not counting the last Oldsmobile's, a VERY different situation -BTW, thanks for the Rolex for selling the last one )
I'll take this to the appropriate thread, but we are having awful front end vibration under breaking on our CX-7 (only 21 miles when we picked it up). Assumed rust/lot grease the first week, but getting worse. Maybe warped rotors?