Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Dodge Dakota Suspension and Axles

2

Comments

  • dodgemondodgemon Member Posts: 1
    I brought my 2003 4x4 CC. in for a front and rear diff fluid change to mr. Lube, they used mopar antislip additive and it was quiet for a couple days it actually sounded better, now its really noisy, sounds like the howl of an old army jeep. the cantire mechanic says its prolly the bearings and will be 600 to fix.how can this happen overnight, a friend suggested throwing in jacobs to quiet it down. Any ideas?
  • tjfitztjfitz Member Posts: 41
    dodgeman, "I feel your pain." I am scouring the region's junk yards for 7.25 inch, 3.55 gear ratio rear axle assemblies for my '90 Dakota and not having much luck. I may have to remove the whole thing and put it on sawhorses in my freezing cold front porch and see if I can repair whatever is wrong inside the differential box. May have to rent one of those salamander butane heaters to keep from turning into a block of ice (I'm in North Dakota).
  • tjfitztjfitz Member Posts: 41
    I removed the cover of my 1990 Dakota's rear differential (it's a 2-wheel drive) and counted 39 teeth on the ring gear and 11 on the pinion gear. Stamped on the ring gear is this: 2852943 - 3.55, also 10 25 89.

    I'm guessing the 10 25 89 is the date of manufacture, October 25, 1989.

    I've measured the gear ratio by turning the tire and the drive shaft and got 3.56, which is close-enough for me to 3.55, so I think the "- 3.55" means the gear ratio.

    Maybe the 2852943 is the Chrysler part number. Can someone check this?

    I took a string and used it to measure the circumference of the ring gear at its widest and got about 26 inches. If you divide 26 by 3.14 (pi), you get 8.28 inches for the gear diameter, which is closer to published numbers for Dodge's 8.25 inch gear than to Dodge's 7.25 inch gear.

    But before this, I was told by a local used parts emporium desk jockey that the cover for the 8.25 inch differential is hexagonal while the 7.25 inch cover is rounded. My cover is rounded (actually elliptical), so he told me I had a 7.25 inch gear.

    On the Internet I read that "Ring gear diameter can be identified by observing the housing tube diameter. The 7-1/4 inch axle has housing tubes which are 2.5 inch (63.5 mm) diameter at the inner ends and 3.00 inch (76.2 mm) at the outer ends; the 8-1/4 inch axle has housing tubes that are 3.0 inch (76.2 mm) in diameter."

    My axle tubes are 3 inches O.D. for their whole length. Maybe this is another indication that I actually have a 8.25 inch differential.

    Am I doing the ring gear measurement wrong? Should I be measuring around the widest part of the gear, or somewhere else? Am I wrong in thinking I have the 8.25 inch ring differential, or is the parts man wrong?

    I'd sure be grateful for some help. I've never done any differential work, and this is the first time I've seen one opened-up.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I believe the 8-1/4 inch has 12-bolt cover and the 7-1/4 inch has 10-bolts.

    Most 2WD have the 7-1/4 while the 8-1/4 inch come thru installed on the 4WD Daks. Somtimes it seems that they installed whatever happened to be laying around the day the rear-axle was installed- LOL
  • tjfitztjfitz Member Posts: 41
    Thanks again, bpeebles.

    My elliptic-shaped differential cover has 10 bolt holes in it. Also found when I took off the cover that there is a second metal tag under one of the two bolts that I left on while draining the oil. It has what looks like 3.5 stamped on it. The other tag has 3.189 stamped on it. The pinion gear driving the ring gear has several numbers painted in white on its end face inside the case. 4 and 1 are two that I remember.
  • tjfitztjfitz Member Posts: 41
    Take a look at this site with photos of Chrysler differential covers. Mine is exactly like the elliptical 8.25 inch cover with 10 holes.

    http://www.ringpinion.com/DiffList.aspx?SearchMode=Diff&TypeID=2&Type=Chrysler
  • tjfitztjfitz Member Posts: 41
    Well, I telephoned the local Dodge dealer and the parts representative said the number stamped on the gear, 2852943 - 3.55, was not a good one, but it probably indicates the ratio is 3.55. Using the last 8 numbers from the VIN, the rep was able to find that the ring gear is 8.25 inches. Now I can get on with ordering the carrier bearings and hope that I can get new ones installed and end the grinding.
  • roddinphxazroddinphxaz Member Posts: 3
    i was out 4 wheeling when i heard a clunk or a clicking sound so i put back in 2 wheeld drive . no noises but when back in 4 hi or low noise from right front axle any ideas thanks
  • tjfitztjfitz Member Posts: 41
    I'm going to replace the differential carrier bearings in my 1990 Dodge Dakota rear wheel drive and have read that Dodge says to use their tool C-4164 (costs about $60) to spin the adjuster used to tighten and loosen the load on the bearings.

    There is an interesting discussion about using a torsion bar from a 1970s era Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth vehicle as a substitute for the special tool. Several posts in the discussion say the bar works perfectly, but the discussion ends with the man who asked the original question having his truck up on stands, the axles removed and a friend taking time off work to help only to find the torsion bar didn't fit!
    http://www.dodgedakotas.com/boards/gen/19427.html

    I'm thinking of haunting the local junkyards to see if I can find one of those torsion bars to do my job, but am I heading for the same problem as the poster on that discussion? I'll be doing this job lying on my driveway outside in a North Dakota winter, and would probably have to lie in the snow in the junkyard to remove a torsion rod, so I don't want to waste a lot of effort, and would really be grateful for any input.
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Check the Dodge Dakota 4x4 Issues discussion for better ideas, but it sounds like you may have popped an axle shaft joint.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • docgreendocgreen Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 4x4 QC and it came with a 7 year 100,000 mile powertrain warranty, and they replaced both my front and rear diff. at the dealership...no charge. If yours is not in the same boat, beware. If you only replace the bearings, it will quiet down for a good month or so until those wear out too. So get the entire thing fixed right once at a reputable 4x4 shop.
  • tjfitztjfitz Member Posts: 41
    I finally got everything together, including the weather, to allow me to remove the differential carrier from the Dakota and on inspection found the carrier bearings and races are in very rough shape. I was relieved to find that, and am hoping the pinion gear bearings are OK. Also found the ring gear of the differential is indeed 8.25 inches diameter.

    I'll bring the carrier to a local machine shop to have its bearings pulled and new bearings pressed-onto the carrier.

    I got an old Chrysler motors torsion bar from a local junk yard for $2 and found it measures very close to 1-1/2 inches across the flats of the hex end. However the hex end is too big to fit the differential bearing adjusters (as found by the man at http://www.dodgedakotas.com/boards/gen/19427.html). The hole in the adjusters is very close to 1-29/64 inches across the flats. I still don't want to buy the Dodge part and am thinking of having the same machine shop skim some metal off the six flats of the torsion bar so it will fit the adjusters. It all depends on how much they would charge and whether they can machine that kind of metal.
  • dodge96dodge96 Member Posts: 3
    My front differential just started making a noise like a flat tire flopping on the road. I took the cover off and everything looked fine. When I had it up on jack stands I turned the front tires and could hear a lesser version of the noise but still could not pinpoint the problem.
  • dodge96dodge96 Member Posts: 3
    My front differential just started making a noise like a flat tire flopping on the road. I took the cover off and everything looked fine. When I had it up on jack stands I turned the front tires and could hear a lesser version of the noise but still could not pinpoint the problem.
  • tjfitztjfitz Member Posts: 41
    dodge96, hope you find your problem. If you check post #61 in this thread, there is a link to Dodge Dakota 4x4 Issues. I looked there and the last two posts talk about noise that might be caused by a CV joint connecting to the front differential. I've had some pretty bad noise from an inner CV joint on another car, and found that one of the ball bearings inside had come loose and when I put the car in reverse, it sometimes sounded like someone was hitting underneath the car with a sledge hammer. Going forward, it was fine. After about 5 years (!), I replaced the joint.
  • tjfitztjfitz Member Posts: 41
    I got a vise-grip-attaching dial indicator from Harbor Freight (took 5 weeks to deliver!), rented a slide-hammer type axle bearing puller from Checker Auto Parts for $5 a day, bought 3 quarts of Royal Purple lubricant, bought new differential carrier bearings/races, had the old ones pulled and new ones pressed-on at a local machine shop, got new axle oil seals and went after the job of reinstalling the differential's internals. I didn't do a thing to the hypoid-cut pinion gear that sticks into the differential's box on the end of the drive shaft, and hope my only problem was the carrier bearings.

    It really didn't take too long to establish the amount of backlash (free movement) between the pinion gear and the big ring gear. Before removing the differential carrier, I just stuck the dial indicator against a ring gear tooth and worked the ring gear back and forth by hand (the axles had been pulled from their tubes) until it looked as though I had found what seemed like the average backlash all around the ring gear. I suppose I checked four different ring gear positions.

    Then I loosened the carrier bearing cap bolts and eased the heavy carrier out and inspected what I could see. It all looked good except for the carrier bearings, which were badly pitted both on the rollers and the race surfaces.

    I installed the whole business, following carefully the procedure found in http://www.dippy.org/svcman/sm03a.html

    It was a little difficult getting the little pinion gears of the "spider" into the right positions to mesh with the side gears and then slip the pinion gear shaft back in. The pinion gears kept falling out and I had to reinstall them and sometimes search for a cup washer that would drop into recesses in the case. Eventually I got them in, slipped their shaft in, and soon had it all in and looking correct.

    I continued on, checking the ring and pinion gear backlash then going from side to side of the pickup, using the big torsion bar to reach down the axle tubes and tighten or loosen the carrier bearing adjusters until it seemed to me from the dial indicator readings that I had a suitable backlash, then I tightened the carrier bearing caps and using a borrowed plumber's pipe wrench on the end of the torsion bar, put a guessed 70 ft-lbs of torque on the adjuster on both carrier bearings.

    My only mishap was to read 90 in-lbs as 90 lb-lbs for the torque to put on the bolt securing the adjuster lock. (It seems those small bolts actually don't need as much torque after all!) I sheared a bolt and had to go to NAPA to get a replacement. The salesman there recommended I buy a set of left-handed drill bits to back the sheared bolt out. It worked! I never knew there was such a thing as a left-handed drill bit before that day.

    Putting the axles in was an simple job, and the "C" lock rings on the end of the axles go in easily, although they liked to fall out of their slot into the gears and dark places in the case if I was not careful. Amazing that those little rings are the only things preventing the rear axle from pulling out of the differential.

    I used Royal Purple "Max-Gear" 75-90W lubricant because the race performance shop had only that and Shaeffer oils in stock. Maybe I should have gone by often-repeated recommendations on this board and got Red Line. As it was, the Royal Purple cost $14 a quart! Well, it's in there.

    There is an interesting study done by Amsoil comparing all the differential lubes that makes it look as though Royal Purple wasn't the best choice. The study is available to read on-line through
    https://www.amsoil.com/products/gearlubes/WhitePaper.aspx?zo=1173195

    I cleaned up the cover and differential case and put sealant (butyl rubber calk-hope it works out) and bolted it back on. So far, no trace of an oil leak there or at the axles.

    The hardest part of the whole job was putting the rear brakes back on. All the springs and adjusters and tangs and slots that have to fit just-right made it a real time-consumer for me.

    With that finally done, I soon had the tires back on and the pickup off the jack stands. Generally I get so excited at the end of a big job that I rush the "tires on the ground" step. In the past, I have forgotten about a bottle of welding gas behind a car and knocked it over, and on another occasion forgot about axle stands and backed off them and put a big dent in a fuel tank. This time I actually looked around the pickup and underneath for any potential dangers before getting behind the steering wheel and starting the engine.

    The rear end is quiet now, and the swishing/grinding noise is gone. However I notice a whining that comes and goes with load, and I think it might be the pinion gear-ring gear adjustment being a little loose. If the noise is too much I might eventually do something about like what was done on a Jaguar as detailed by a real do-it-yourselfer at
    http://bernardembden.com/xjs/diff/index.htm
  • dodge96dodge96 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, tjfitz! That sledge hammer noise is exactly what I heard, except it was when I was driving about 40. Scared the sh out of me the first time. When you say inner CV joint would that be inside the differential? I checked all the cv joints in the boots on the left and right front axle's and they looked fine. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    THAT IS GREAT NEWS! I applaud your efforts to get your diff repaired. I am duly impressed!

    Even though I have rebuilt engines and maintained mechanical things all my life - I do not think I would attempt what you have done.

    I suppose you were NOT laying on your back in a dirt driveway - LOL
  • gtownguy2gtownguy2 Member Posts: 3
    Hi all;

    I have been busy but using my 01 QC 4x4, 4.7,auto. Just turned 100k miles. I had to replace front driver bearing @85k and just did passenger front at 99k. Now I notice the driver output side on the front differential is leaking. Sort of out of the seal where the axle shaft goes in. Anyone else have this. Could it be my axles need to be replaced. ( I do hear clunking noises from the front end when I go over slight bumps-but I live with it.) they do not seem to make noises when I turn -so I thought the cv's are ok. It's almost as if somthing is loose. Could it be play in my axles? anyone have any experiences with these problems?

    Thanks for any and all input.

    Tom.
  • tjfitztjfitz Member Posts: 41
    dodge96, I scribbled a reply last night but must have lost it somehow. My car had, on each axle, two CV joints: one inner, splined into the differential, the other at the outer end of the axle, splined into the wheel carrier.

    The noise I had came from one of the inner CV joints and was truly scary. I thought I was breaking the driveline into pieces. I took the inner CV joint apart, and one of the balls was slipping out of its race and back in. I popped the ball back in and closed-up the CV and hoped for the best, and kept driving for five years. I just couldn't see paying big-bucks for a new inner CV joint. It seemed the only rebuilt ones were the outer CV joints because they are generally the ones to wear-out and I suppose there is a bigger market for them.

    Somehow I went for five more years and then bought two reconditioned inner joints from a man in Ocala, Florida. He is an interesting character, a veteran of the U.S. Army airborne and now supplying CV joints for any car you can name (I think).

    I don't know if your scary noise and shock is from a CV joint but it could be. Sorry I can't be much more help, but best of luck to you!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Now that I have been reading a flurry of appends about front/rear differential issues... I am SOOOO GLAD that I switched to RedLine lubricants when my Dak was just cutting its first tooth. (less than 20,000 miles)

    The true synthetic basestock (NOT like Mobil1) of RedLine has protected all my Dakota gearcases. (manual xmission, xFerCase, differentials...etc)

    I anticipate that my gearcases will never EVER have any measurable wear due to running RedLine lubes. (Over the useful life of my Dakota.)
  • tjfitztjfitz Member Posts: 41
    bpeebles, I don't know what is happening with my replies on this forum. They don't seem to appear. Thanks for your kind words about my differential work, and I hope it holds-up. Seems OK so far. Maybe I'll go a few thousand miles and change my lubes to RedLine products.
  • briany4briany4 Member Posts: 1
    I have had my 2001 QC to the dealer three times to fix the rearend. I am now having to go back again. Original failure was Dec '04 @ 86k, everything but rear axle bearings were replaced. Pinion bearings then failed and were replaced under warranty Aug '05 @ 101k. It started grinding again in Feb '07 @ 125k. Although out of warranty, we agreed on a price to replace all bearings at one time, including the rear axle bearings. Now here we are, 14 months later at 150k, and the rear is again failing.I bought this truck new and I know it hasn't been abused. Is the dealer really that inept?, or am I missing something? Any help/suggestions on how to proceed with the dealer would be greatly appreciated.
  • rich14rich14 Member Posts: 15
    mine did the same thing and forun out that it was the driveshaft for the front axle, changed cvjoints and still had it till i took it to the garage and that is what it was
  • clintonbclintonb Member Posts: 2
    I'm following instructions in a Haynes manual for removing the front shocks on my '93 Dodge Dakota. They mention removing the top nut of the front shock. However, I can't seem to really fit a wrench in that area. Also the nut and bolt look pretty rusted and I'm sure its going to take some muscle to break it loose.

    So for those of you that have replaced your front shocks on a 2WD dakota, what tool did you use to remove that top nut? Did you use a socket wrench with a long extension? Did you use an impact wrench?

    I'm welcome to any other advice you may have for removing the front shocks.

    Thanks!
  • GrayDakGrayDak Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Dodge Dakota extended cab 4X4, V8. I purchased it new. To make a long story short I have had my Dakota to two different dealerships and both have found water in my rear differential. Both dealerships also claim it is a “maintenance issue”. I believe it is a design or manufacturing defect that should be covered under the power train warranty.

    I know when I have water in my rear differential by kind of a “groaning” sound coming from the rear end. One of the mechanics who has worked on my Dakota has told me the “groaning” sound comes from the rear differential clutch plates not being properly lubricated because of the water. It has only been 5K to 6K miles since my last fluid change and I am getting the same old “groaning” sound out of my rear end so I know I have water in it again. I only have about 35K miles on my Dakota.

    Has anyone else had a similar experience with their Dakota? I live in the NW so NOT driving in wet conditions is NOT an option. I do not believe I have ever completely submerged the rear differential in standing water but we have had some extremely wet driving conditions here in the NW the last couple of years. I have two years left on my power train warranty and I am concerned that once the warranty expires I will all of a sudden be told that I need my rear differential repaired or replaced.
  • GrayDakGrayDak Member Posts: 2
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Well, my friend here in Western New York State we have a fair amount of moisture and inclement weather too, but this is not something I remember hearing of unless the vehicle's axle was immersed.

    Moisture can and will accumulate in a differential assembly through the vent...over time. As the differential assembly heats up, internal air is expelled through the vent. As it cools down, outside ambient air is drawn back in. Over many heating and cooling cycles, moisture will build up in the fluid from outside air. Routine differential lubricant changes will ensure that the moisture content never gets to a high enough level to cause lubrication problems.

    If this is happening in 6,000 miles I would have to say there's some other dynamic at work here. I would check the position of the vent hose and ensure there it is correctly positioned, free of cracks, and no signs of poor hose connections that might permit water from entering at a low point.

    I guess it is possible that excessive moisture can build up if this vehicle is predominately driven in high moisture environments. For example, if the truck sees duty on more rainy days than dry days, then this might cause your situation. It would be unusual in my experience, but not impossible. But you'd have to eliminate all other possibilities before you could confidently declare driving conditions as a cause.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • byrd2byrd2 Member Posts: 9
    The best thing I used is a Dremel, with a heavy duty fiber cut off disc. I've used the special shock tools, and the both broke. Shops usually burn 'em off with a torch. But I use my dremel just like a die grinder, and it's better to use the flexible extension. You'll cut the bolt/shaft right off, and away it goes. I'ver used my Dremel to cut a lot of rusted/stuck bolts off. It works great. Remember to use eye protection. The only thing is, if you will be trying to re-use the shock, then I'd soak it with some PB Blaster, or other means, use a bit of heat from a propane torch, then use a special front shock tool. K-D tools makes one as well as Lisle. O'
    Rielly's sells one.
  • dznutz1886dznutz1886 Member Posts: 2
    hey guys...
    i have a 2000 dakota QC manul 6 cylinder. i replaced the battery recently. when i drive with my headlights on...the lights start flickering. (headlights, dashlights..pretty much all the lights) also i hear this clicking when the lights are flickering. when the car is off and just sitting there, i c in the headlight that there is a very dim light that is on. i have to 2 disconnect the battery so it wont drain my battery.

    plz help!
  • ESBYESBY Member Posts: 4
    I just came back from a test drive after replacing the front struts on my quad-cab
    4x4. What a difference! The old struts only had 24,000 miles on them, but it's obvious now that they were shot.
    The new struts have eliminated the floaty feeling I've hated since I bought the truck a few weeks ago.
    I used Monroe 'Sensatrac' struts, which were pricey, but worth it.
    If you've got access to a spring compressor; the job isn't too difficult, either.

    Steve
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The 2006 dakota has STRUTS???? are you CERTAIN they are struts? (A "strut" also holds the wheel in alignment and controls camber.)

    BTW: The very best shock absorbers for the Dakota are still the Edelbrock IAS (Inertia Active System). They are true MONOTUBE shock absorbers which are far superiour to the dual-tube desgn that the el-cheepos use.

    I put Edelbrock IAS on my Dak within the 1st year of purchasing brand-new and have never regretted it. Not only does it RIDE better and not jump sideways over expansion-jounts... when I hit the brakes, my truck does not do a nose-dive. (Becasue IAS knows it is not a bump in the road and stiffens up the front shocks under braking)
  • ESBYESBY Member Posts: 4
    'Strut' simply means the shock absorber and vehicle spring are built as one unit. Some struts DO play a part in camber and alignment, but not all. 2005 and newer Dakotas employ strut suspension for the front wheels.
    I've only found two manufacturers of struts for these Dakotas: Monroe and Rancho.
    The Rancos are said to 'stiffin' the ride considerably. I'm not an off-roader, so the Monroes were my preference.
    I just hope they last longer than the originals did. (24,000 miles).

    Steve
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Thanks for the info ESBY - I was not awre that Dodge went with struts on the newer Daks.

    It is my experience that when there are not many aftermarket parts available... there may be a design flaw which the aftermarket folks do not want any part of.

    For example, on my 2000 Dak, the balljoints were known to snap off. The very best balljoint manufacturer (Moog) did not list any replacement balljoints for many years... why? because the design put too much stress on the balljoints and they knew if they sold a replacemet, it would also snap.

    Another example: My ol 1981 AMC Eagle would eat front shock-absorbers no matter what I installed... I ended up paying Midas to install "lifetime warantee" shocks....Midas ended up replacing those shocks at least 3 times for free. (I got my moneys-worth out of that)

    Good luck with your new shocks... I hope they last the life of your Dak.
  • ESBYESBY Member Posts: 4
    I'd rather not have struts on the front of a truck. They're not as robust as larger springs and separate shocks would be. I suspect the struts are worn at 24,000 miles because they're trying to support too much weight for the design.
    If they wear out prematurely; I may look for a shop with 'lifetime' shocks, too.
    On the plus side; the '06 Dakota rides almost as smooth as a car.

    Steve
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The new Dakotas use an assembled spring-over-shock combination. It looks like a strut in that it is removed from the suspension as one unit. It utilizes a very large diameter shock piston. There are upper and lower control arms and the "strut" does not turn like a MacPherson. I think someone told me the spring and shock are serviced separately, but I'll check on that.

    I think the conclusion that they are not going to be durable is premature.

    Anyway, I have never had to replace a strut on any of my cars (Plymouth, Dodge, Chrysler, Nissan, Toyota, Hyundai) and my girlfriends Concode LXI is still sporting the originals at 165,000.

    Only time will tell.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • ESBYESBY Member Posts: 4
    I'm not sure what you mean by "serviced separately". The spring must be compressed to removed the shock, after the strut is removed from the vehicle.
    Based on several posts I've read regarding the life expectancy of the original shock on the front ends of these trucks; it appears the factory strut is not durable. I'm hoping the Monroe cartridge I've installed will last longer than 24,000 miles, as did the originals.

    Steve
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I asked the parts manager at my Dodge dealer and he said they haven't used a one. If they all failed within 24,000 miles they'd be replaced under warranty.

    Dusty
  • mrt5mrt5 Member Posts: 1
    have got laugh about tires have dak sport 2000 extend cab wranglers 31 10.50 just changed them 9 months ago they still had tread not much 230000k best tires ever had just put monros sensitracks on not bad but the ariginals were the best ride same 230000k also true lost lower balljoint tire came off havent been able to get alighnment right have any specs on that would be help
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I can give you spec's for 2003, but I think the 2000 Dakota may have been different:

    130.9 inch wheel base (All except RT) 2wd

    Caster = 3.13 degrees
    Camber = -0.00
    Toe = 0.10 degrees

    130.9 inch wheel base (All except RT) 4wd

    Caster = 3.16 degrees
    Camber = -0.00
    Toe = 0.10 degrees

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    I have a 98' Dakota 4X4 with a V-6. I have to say it has been pretty reliable over the years. It's heading towards 99K(not bad for 11 years) Now it get fairly lousy mileage even with a V-6, and even if I tune up it won't be that much better. The ride is not very good, I replaced the stock shocks with monroes, and its OK, but not great. I had both upper and lower ball joints go bad, so they are about 4+ years now. One thing that happened last June or July is a shackle let loose and nearly put the leaf spring through the bed. I've never had that happen on any truck I had in the past and I'll blame living here in the Rust Belt and myself for not crawling underneath and doing an inspection more often so I would have seen in coming. So they're new now and all is fairly decent. I see the new body style Dakotas 05's and up and wonder if people really like them. My friends have asked if I would by another Dodge and really don't know what I'd do if I could buy something else. It never left me sitting(except when the battery died) and the most major repair I had to do was when a freeze-out plug let loose at the back of the engine. Had to yank the tranny out to change a $2 plug!
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    It took me a while to get use to the 2005-2008s, the front end being the part I didn't like very well. The rest of the design I thought was great. Now the style appeals to me, especially since the 2009s have a very blunt look. After 2004, the Dakota got some nice improvements to ride and handling and a stiffer frame. The front suspension is quite a bit different. I'm not particularly fond of the '05-08 interiors, especially since I love my '03 interior and dash design. My son had a rented one for a week and he loved it. I had to say it was a very pleasant truck to drive.

    A bad freeze plug is highly unusual problem on a 3.9. I haven't heard of a rusted out shackle before now, either. Unfortunately ball joints replacements were common for Dakotas of that vintage, and even up through 2003. They had a recall on the uppers.

    I've heard a number of Dakota owners ay they wouldn't buy another, but I've heard more say they would. What most don't consider is the fact that a Dakota is a far heavier and more capable truck than a Ranger, S10, Canyon, Tacoma or a Frontier. My '03 Sport the way it is equiped is rated just a few hundred pounds less for towing than many full size trucks. And you know, after ten years or so I hear owners of competitive makes recounting their repairs, too. I think Frontier owners replace various engine sensors and brakes on a routine basis, Ranger folks seem to have the full gamut of issues as Dakota owners, I know of two Tacomas that the frames rusted through rendering the trucks unsafe to drive, and Canyons...well, I just won't go there!

    Unless my requirements for hauling and towing change, I'd buy another Dakota without reservation. If I didn't need as much truck as a Dakota, I'd probably look at a Ranger or a Frontier. Since our last Toyota was not a stellar vehicle, I think I'd pass on a Tacoma.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • kegler12kegler12 Member Posts: 5
    Just purchased a '95 dakota with 137,000 mi and there is play in the steering. Feels like it is kinda floating but hard to describe. Mechanic checked the suspension parts and they all seem tight, so he tightened the steering box but this just made turning the wheel tighter but didn't correct the floating feel so it actually made it worse as far as correction steering so I had him back it off. Any ideas what would cause this? He thinks maybe a front end alignment might help but truck alignment as far as tire wear and lack of drifting on road seems ok.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Sounds like you might have a sticky boost valve in the steering rack.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The 1995 Dak does not have rack-n-pinion steering... that was first deployed in the 2000 Dakota.

    However, it would be best to troubleshoot and isolate what the problem is..... losing your steeing is NOT somthing you want to happen.

    Lift BOTH front wheels off the ground and use your hands to try and 'wiggle' each wheel in all directions. Check all steering-linkages, tie-rod-ends and other steering components. Any play HAS to be isolated and fixed.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Actually, to be specific, two-wheel drive Dakotas had rack-and-pinion steering back to '91 at least. But, yes, the four-wheel drive version had a gear box.

    He didn't state in his mail note, but I've seen this problem before. I'm betting he's got a two-wheel drive.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Good catch Dusty... you always keep me honest.

    Here in Vermont... a 2-wheel drive truck is nearly unheard of so I assume all trucks are 4X4.
  • hoff829hoff829 Member Posts: 2
    So my dodge is a 2001 with 129,000 miles on it. I replaced the rear in it last year. Was brand new and now the whinning has started again. I replaced the fluid in it about 1,000 miles ago and yet the whinning wont go away. Someone said its the tires I have on it but I really dont think its possible. This thing has caused more headaches than anything. When i place in reverse it acts like its going to die/turn off. If im on long trips and come to a stop after going 65-70m MPH it acts like its going to go while I have the brake applied. Also I had a problem with my head lights several times. One will light up by its self while truck is off after long amounts of rain. Am I the only one that has issues??? I take great car of my truck. Its a 4x4 v8 4.7 liter. Just incase anyone was wondering. Please help I dont have the money to replace the rear again.
  • hoff829hoff829 Member Posts: 2
  • kegler12kegler12 Member Posts: 5
    Sorry I forgot to state that my '95 Dakota is 4 wheel drive. The mechanic did check for looseness in suspension joints and found them to be in good shape. I had my wife turn the steering while I watched under the hood and there seems to be play in the steering box. Could it be the gears are worn inside? I know nothing about the inner parts of these.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles