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fluid.I would run it for 4 or 5 days then change oil.That will clean the top real good. good luck deweyii
they told me low nock sensor .to find out they want to tear down to fix it
any body help me pease I all ready sunk one tousand in it still the
same some poepole said valve job some people said crank shaft .
I make my liveing with this truck please advise. thank you for your resoponce in advence
try doing a compression test wet and dry it should indicate were your miss is coming from and check your fuel pressure and fuel filter
It starts and runs fine. you can put it in drive and it will auto shift through the gears at up to 4500 RPM ok.
the issue is when you are going up a hill or grade for more than 25 seconds under a easy steady load in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears the engine lights comes on it begine to flash and it sets a code. When this happens number four cylinder missfires and engines runs rough until you remove your foot from the gas peddle for 30 seconds or so. The engine light stops flashing and stays on and truck runs ok. You just can't go over 2000 RPM or up a hill or grade.
this has been going on for the three years i have owned this truck and seems to have gotten worse. we have spent many ours and its been at the shop on the scanners many times. Always it says #4 cly missfire.
check compression its great, changed and tested plugs, plug wires, coil, crank sensor, intake manifold gaskets and fuel pump. Still the same reaction.
Oh ya my truck can plow all day long without one problem. How ever go up a hill or grade for more than 25 seconds under just a easy load and the problem starts everytime. HELP
my e-mail is Hotroddv@yahoo.com com if needed.
Thanks very much
is 2001 2 wheel drive silverado. i ended up destroying my cat. Here is what i did. My dealer told me to buy some Techron and add to the tank a few times and buy gas from a top station in my case i got shell gas. Then bought a big can of gunk carb cleaner and took off the air cover and sprayed the throttle body with no less than half the can. This resolved my issue and i do this once a yr or so.
I love this truck, but it has given me problems on and off since I have had it.... it started lurching again last week.... the transmission is gonna go any day now... probably on the way to work. I'm not spending any more money on this truck. GOOD LUCK!
Luckily, he owned a Device that read codes he got from Napa. It showed the number 6 cylinder was bad and an O2 sensor.
He put in all new plugs, new plug wires and one O2 sensor. He took it for a test drive and within two miles it was it was doing the same thing. The Stablizer and traction control light came on and also the check engine light as it had for me when it started running very very rough. In my case, it was the number 6 plug. Three different GM mechanics at three different dealerships told me that it mostly affects the plugs on the right bank, and can affect any of those plugs, one told me that he had seen it on the number 7 plug twice.
GM is well aware, as well as their service depts since GM has issued bulletins to the dealers regarding this issue. These bulletins are not for the public.
What happens is the fuel mgt system shuts off the fuel to the right bank and the lifters won't lift the valves for lubrication. Then, the lifter fails, the roller for example breaks off, the lifter slides inside itself, etc. as a consequence it wears the lobe off the camshaft, then destroys the camshaft. Replacing the bad lifter and camshaft will not solve the problem, maybe temporially, but not for the long term.
In my case, my pickup went out of warranty, GM refused to fix the problem. If you are having any issue with oil consumption, bad fuel mileage, running rough; RUN DON'T WALK TO YOUR NEAREST GM DEALER ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE UNDER THE 100,000 MILES AND DEMAND A NEW ENGINE.
Repairing the engine does not work. I was told by one mechanic he saw an engine repaired with a new lifter, etc. and a few thousand miles later, he had the same problem and ended up buying a new engine.
The only thing to do is get a new engine. Guess what? GM now has their fuel mgt. system on the 2013 2500's and as I understand it on the 3500's also.
It looks like I'll be buying a ford sooner than later. We can thank California and the EPA for all this crap the manufacturers have to put on vehicles these days.
However, it really pisses me off with service managers and a district manager lies to me about the problem.
WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT LET GM REPAIR THE ENGINE. I BELIEVE, IT WILL COME BACK TO HAUNT YOU.
We see that you've worked with multiple dealerships on this concern with your engine; did you ever have a Service Request open at any point regarding this concern? Please forward that reference number (71-**********) or the last 8 digits of your VIN, along with any additional details you wish to include, to socialmedia@gm.com and we will check into this to see if there's anything further we can do.
Sarah, GM Customer Service
please any advise :confuse:
Sarah, GM Customer Service
I started to ask questions and look for info on the Net of similar issues. So this is what I did. 1 . got the truck into my garage , removed the air cleaner , installed the pressure gage correctly , tested the pump ( 59 lbs and 62 lbs when fuel regulator kicked in on acceleration.
I pulled the truck outside with the fuel gage left on and waited for a cold day to come. 3 days later as I started the truck and started to move it , it stalled and wouldn't start . I checked the fuel gauge pressure and it read 40lbs, I thought great my fuel pump is a cheap one that don't like cold weather ..lol but before I blamed it on the pump I remember a old time mechanic tell me to test the grounds, so I got out the jumper cables and clamped on end to the lift lug on the motor and the other to the frame ,tested the pressure with the key turned and got 59lbs reading , started the truck which ran great until I removed the clamp , which came with a spark , and noticing the pressure gauge go down slowly to 40 as it stalled quickly . I now have a direction which I found the ribbon ground behind the motor crumbling to dust . I knew the other ground to the battery to alternator bracket was secure and also the ground to the inside fender wall . I replaced the ribbon ground with a heavy braided wire and my truck runs better then ever before . I wouldn't believe that many grounds would make the difference . Also I know of the distributor cap has to be replaced every yr before winter or it misses on damp cold days until it is warmed up. I've been doing this for past 8 yrs .