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Comments
Here again you're using your personal and unfounded bias on the issue as a basis for making statements that are extremely non-scientific and highly inaccurate. Like it or don't, believe it or not, if you look over in the BITOG database for UOAs, you will find report after report after report that shows that, if anything, 10,000 miles on a late model VW engine with 502.00 certified oil in the oil pan is conservative.
"Don't let that motor go bad folks, I rather do it every 5000-6000 miles ,pay $75 and save my motor and costly repairs."
You're starting to become a scare monger just like the folks at that web site you posted a link for a week or two back. The fact is, if you use the proper oil, changing your oil at the five to six thousand mile mark instead of the recommended ten thousand mile mark won't add even a single mile of life to your engine (errr, that is unless you routinely take your car to the track and drive it at ten-tenths for extended periods of time).
"My girlfriend has a honda accord and we called four dealerships, one said not to get the power steering fluid change and the other saids that we should do it after so many mileage. Go figure. I rather spend $60 than $600."
Here again, the sixty bucks you'd "rather" spend won't save you from having to spend that six-hundred at any point in the future. Either the pump is going to fail or it won't, and the changing of the fluid won't alter that fact what-so-ever.
yes. the sludged engine fiasco proves it.
whatever testing VW does is obviously not extensive and rigorous enough.
and hey, now we have the DSG fiasco. again thanks to VW's 'extensive and rigorous' testing. :sick:
Ummm, well sort of. The thing is, VW did the bulk of their testing in Europe, and over there the engines had no problem with sludge, however, over here the exact same engine, running with the exact same oil, had a sludge problem on some engines. Which engines? Typically those driven for lots of short trips, and/or engines that had crap Iffy Boob oil used in them, and/or engines that were driven beyond the 5,000 mile recommended OCI for the one engine that VW had problems with (i.e. the 1.8T).
So, what did the "sludged engine fiasco" prove? That if you abuse your engine and/or don't properly maintain it, sludge can result.
I was told there is a plastic protective like shield all the way under the car to keep things protected (hence protective shield) well when we put it up on stands it sounded horrible like it had cracked something...what do you think...
Good By, Dear GTI, you will be missed and remembered . . .
Loved my GTI as well but alas, i had to find something a little more practical (and with auto trans).
Once your GTI is outside the standard warranty, I'd take it to an independent (and reputable) mechanic. VW parts can be expensive when purchased new from VW, but third party or re-manufactured stuff are inexpensive. Dealers also tend to charge a premium for labor. Only use the dealer when absolutely necessary (warranty work, stuff that your independent guy can't fix).
thanks ! :confuse:
Save Cash by Avoiding Auto-Repair Service Plans
(Increase your financial IQ – think green)
Did you know that according to Consumer Reports Magazine, extended auto warranties usually don’t make financial cents? Consumer Reports notes that a five year old vehicle today had one third fewer problems than a five year old vehicle in 2005. The bottom line – cars are becoming increasingly more reliable and serious (more expensive) problems, such as engine or transmission repairs, are actually quite rare.
Many service plans are sold by marketing companies that don’t provide the coverage themselves. Plans can cost hundreds or thousands of dollars and have various coverage options. They all sound good until you file a claim. Most contracts include a lot of fine print that can usually be used to deny your request for payment. According to the Federal Trade Commission, auto-service contract fraud was the number one complaint in 2009! That just about says it all.
Whether a service plan is offered by a broker, car dealer or manufacturer, the experts recommend that you skip it. You’re better off redirecting that money into your TSP account!
... at first I thought I got cheated, but I change my oil every 5,000 miles anyway as was the recommended service interval when I bought it (November 2007). Most dealerships offer coupons for just a flat oil change and no other servicing for about $70. Although it seems steep, the required VW 502.00 oil isn't cheap $8-9/quart x 4 quarts = $32-36 for oil + $9.00 for the filter element an o-ring. I could afford the extra $20 every other month or so to make sure my service records are documented should any catastrophic failures occur. I'm happy to report however that my car has been pretty easy with no significant or catastrophic mechanical problems. I'm not burning any significant amount of oil between oil changes and will start doing my own oil changes between the current 10,000 mile dealership interval.
Regarding dealership vs. independent... I'm not saying that independent service shops are incompetent, but I would do more than just preliminary research before trusting the car to anyone. A German specialist doesn't necessarily have good experience with VW, and even if they do... they may specialize only in classic VW's. If you're doing research here, you're obviously smart and will do further research to help sway your opinion... so go with your instinct.. you should be okay. I've only done dealership because:
1) there is a degree of accountability should something go wrong
2) i've got a great dealership that i'm working with (VW-Riverside)
3) prices are competitive if you wait for coupons.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Currently averages 26 mpg with a mix of highway and city driving. It used to be better, but I suspect the fuel filter needs changing. Mechanically, no issues aside from a MAF-sensor replaced under warranty @ 13,000 miles.
Said another way, I'd look for a different cause.
I agree that a fuel filter normally should last longer than 60,000 miles, however other GTI/GLI forums suggest changing it at 50,000 miles. Many reported claims support that the drop in MPG i'm experiencing is typical of a fuel filter nearing the end of it's life. I do not recall VW recommending a mileage interval for it off the top of my head for getting the filter changed, but my dealership did mention that it was something I should look into soon.
Granted that I never experienced something like this with my Honda, but my Honda never drove like my GLI. There are tradeoff's to every car, and this is probably one that i'm willing to put up with. The only other tradeoff/ 'extra' expense the car has cost me is a carbon build up engine flush that I did to be on the safe side since direct injection engines have a tendency to build up carbon deposits on the intake valves (other manufacturers are experiencing this: GM, Ford, Hyundai). Aside from these two items, it's been general maintenance, something I wasn't expecting getting into the car. It hasn't been the cheapest to maintain, i'll admit that... but it hasn't been the raging nightmare that people paint German cars to be. (Esp. this Mexican-assembled German car).
Here's a link to support my theory:
http://www.golfmkv.net/blog/archives/10#
I had the coils recall and ECU reflash recall done when I bought it. I replaced the PCV system with aftermarket to cure the oil pushing out the cap problem, and I replaced the fuel pump cam follower to keep that dreaded issue at bay. I have an occassional check engine light caused by the intake flapper, which when cleared with my vag-com stays away for a couple of months at a time.
So far, I'm pleased with the car.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
The intake flapper was suspect in my car and triggered the CEL once, other than that it has mostly been some parts that prematurely failed (gas struts on the trunk, door lock module) as well as some wear and tear parts they just changed under warranty to just keep me a happy customer (xenon bulb , Battery ,) . Nothing caused me to take the car in between service intervals... so i've been very happy with it myself as nothing has been out of the ordinary and recurrent.
I'm still trying to figure out how to turn off my TPMS, though. I know there is a way, but I haven't figured it out. It would be nice not to have the light on when using my winter wheels.
Biggest reason is to diagnose any CELs, though. I do all my own repairs, so it is a necessity for me.
If you are so inclined, keep an eye on the vwvortex classifieds. I picked up a very slightly used one for about $50 less than buying new from ross-tech. So only about $200 and I've turned off the CEL 3 times so far with it. It has already paid for itself as far as I'm concerned, and I've only had it about 7 months.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
cheaper?