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Dodge Dakota Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • cmyawncmyawn Member Posts: 51
    I have a 2001 Dakota Quad Cab 4x4 with the 4.7L V-8. Typically when I start the truck, even in warm weather, for the first couple of hundred yards the automatic transmission seems to slip a bit. The engine has a loud roaring sound as it revs without the tranny doing much. After a couple of hundred yards it seels like the tranny "catches up" with the engine and everything runs fine after that.

    The truck only has 52,000 miles.

    Any ideas?
  • jt8manjt8man Member Posts: 5
    Took the truck to the tranny shop, no codes came up, dropped the pan and found one of the bands worn out, rebuilt the tranny, put a shift kit and it is just fine now. also found worn clutch plates and broken spring of some kind. Oh well, I guess it was crying out for help.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    You have a 545RFE transmission. These are typically rugged and trouble free, so this is kind of unusual:

    *Low fluid level

    * Fluid level too high

    *Defective or clogged transmission cooler return filter; clogged cooler or transmission cooling lines;low hydraulic pressure.

    NOTE: Some Cooler Return Filters were defective for a period of time. Symptoms generally manifest themselves as slow initial gear engagement from park, or over engine revving (flair) on shifts.

    *Defective Throttle Position Sensor.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    If you had used the SEARCH function in the Dakota forums, you would not have even had to ask that question. (NOT the search at the bottom of this page!)

    Yours is a very common misconception... the xmission is NOT the issue at all. Instead, the sound you hear is the belt-driven fan. Under some ambient tempartures, the silicone-clutch on the fan will make the fan "roar" for 2-5 minutes when you first start a cold engine. After awhile, the silicone will 'loosen up' and allow the fan to freewheel as it is suppsed to. The "roar" goes away at that point.

    Even my MANUAL xmission 4.7L semi-hemi will make that "roaring" sound under the right conditions... I KNOW that my xmission is not the problem.

    This "roar" sound is a VERY common complaint especially after a summer of not hearing it and the mornings start to be about 40F. (40F is the temp where the "roar" seems to happen the most.)

    Try this, the next time you start the engine cold, gently rev the engine.... you will hear that "roaring" sound even when the xmssion is in Park. This proves the "roaring" is not the xmission at all.

    Another way you can tell it is not the xmission is to look at your Tachometer... it will not show you any unusually high RPMs when the "roaring" is happening.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Bpeebles, good work.

    After re-reading the original post, I have to conclude that your diagnosis is probably correct. Unfortunately, I was reacting to the poster's conclusion, and not the symptom. I should've known. I haven't seen a bad 545RFE yet!

    How are the temps up there? Last week I had a 2 degree reading on my thermometer at about 5:00 AM one morning. Coldest day so far. How about you?

    Bests,
    Dusty
  • dursdurs Member Posts: 1
    Evening All,

    I have a 2001 Dakota Quad Cab w/202k miles on it. When traveling down the thruway the RPM's surg from the normal 2000 up to approx. 24-27000 and then settle back into the normal range. This seems to occur more often when the road is bumpy (I know how silly that sounds, I typed it), and less often when I am going up an incline. At it's worse, this occurs every 20-30 seconds, then it won't happen for 1/2 an hour.
    I bought the truck new, and have always let Dorshel work on it and do what they recommend, up until 2 years ago. Then I went to work 40 miles East and have had it serviced by a local garage when it acted up (brakes, inspections,ect). I have had NO tranny problems, the fluid is not burnt smelling and is in the normal range, and even still has that red color to it. I travel 30,000+ miles /year, mostly highway, and would really like to get another year or two out of this w/o a major expense.
    Any suggestions as to what might be wrong?? I have been told by several folks to bring it someplace now, before it breaks, or it will be much more expensive....but these same people say it could run as is for another 20-25,000 miles. Is there a reasonable service I could get done that would buy me some time??

    TIA

    Jim
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Hi Dusty, We had -20F at my house... -42Fwas seen north of me.

    My 2000 Dak with 4.7L semi-hemi still starts at those temps USING THE ORIGINAL BATTERY which was installed in September 1999. (That is when I bought by Dak. freshly orderd from the factory.)
  • morganvmorganv Member Posts: 49
    My daughters boyfriend has a 99 dakota with 170k miles on it. recently the transmission started to not shift sometimes and wanted to start out in 2nd gear sometimes. it seemed worst in cold weather. we took it to shop #1 and they test drove it. when they came back they said the trans needed a complete rebuild around $2500. they said dodge tranies were junk. my husband decided to get another opinion and shop 2 pulled the trans pan off, looked inside and said it needed to come apart. they said it could cost anywhere from 1800 to 3000 (ouch. my husband went to shop 3 where the guy pluged in the diagnostic tool and said it probably needed a new torque converter and some other stuff. he did say that hed do a flush, that dodges "get really dirty sometimes" and if that didn't cure the problem he'd credit us the flush. we were discussing this at home the next day and look at all of the posts in here. my husband is mechanically incline so he started checking things out himself. they found that the "lever on the side of the trans" seemed stuck in one position. and when they touched it it moved back on its own. my husband things its the thing dusty calls the "throttle position valve". after fiddling with it for a while they test drove it and the trans shifted perfectly for 5 days, then started doing it again. they looked at the "lever" again and found it was stuck again. now they think the cable going to the lever is the problem but anyway it sure doesnt need a rebuilt trans, thats for sure! anyway it pays to check things out on your own. thanks dusty for all the info!!!
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Which engine do you have?

    Have you ever serviced the transmission?

    Are you in the Rochester, New York area?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    MorganV,

    It sounds like you've discovered the item Chrysler refers to as the Throttle Valve, or sometimes the Throttle Position Valve used on A, RE, RH, and T-series transmissions. RFE series do not have this valve. The internal Throttle Valve is moved by a lever on the outside of the transmission case. The Throttle Valve controls shift speed, shift quality, part-throttle shift sensitivity, and is highly critical to transmission operation. If the transmission throttle valve is not working correctly or is out of adjustment, early shifts, long (delayed) shifts, no shift (usually 2-3 or 3-4), flair (slippage between shifts), or over sensitive downshifts may occur.

    The transmission throttle valve basically controls hydraulic pressure to the Kickdown Valve, Regulator Valve, and the 1-2 and 2-3 Shift Control Valves in the transmission valve body. Transmission Throttle Valve operation is controlled by the position of the Throttle linkage at the engine Throttlebody via a cable. The adjustment is made at the engine end of the cable.

    Unfortunately for Mopar owners, irratic operation of this particular part in the transmission is probably responsible for 20-40% of unnecessary rebuilds on Mopar trannies. Sometimes the the lever shaft that goes through the transmission case to operate the internal throttle valve becomes sticky or gets bound. Older transmissions had a small return spring mounted to this lever and a bracket on the side of the transmission case. I've seen these springs missing completely because they broke from fatigue or rusted.

    The cable that operates the transmission throttle valve sometimes gets kinked or damaged, but more often gets moisture inside of it that causes it to rust, or stick in cold weather. If a Mopar tranny starts to develop trouble on cold occasions, this is a very likely suspect. Problems with the linkage at the throttlebody is often a problem, too. Throttle linkage should be solvent clean, completely dry and never lubricated.

    It sounds like you have found a common cause to a common symptom. However, I would still recommend that this transmission get some maintenance once you get this fixed. At that mileage, I'd check the band adjustment as well. Also, I'm sure you know, but you should only use ATF+3 or ATF+4. Never use Dexron-Mercon, even with an auxiliary friction modifier!!!!

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • morganvmorganv Member Posts: 49
    dusty. looks lke we resolved the transmision issue. the boys replaced the cable going to the transmission and a spring and they removed the pan and changed the filter. my husband said the inside was heavy coated with gunk and he was very concerned about the condition of the transmission. he said there was a lot of gray silty goop.he decided to pull the transmission lines off and found they were packed with this gray stuff also the tank inside the radiator was full of it to, they cleaned out everything and replaced the antidrain back valve. my daughters boyfriend bought this truck when it had 9000 miles on it and now it has 171,000 miles and hes never done anything to the transmission. for that matter he said he hasn't done much to the engine either. so far the tranmission shifts like new for the last 2 weeks, even in the subzero temps. my hsband wants to know what the prognois is will this last for a while? my daughters boyfriend is not working right now and can't affford a transmission jon right now. Advice???????????? Thanks for your help1
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Well, its hard to say. If there's no indication of slipping between shifts (flair) and no other problems, you could be okay. I have to say your cleaning the cooling lines and radiator cooler, and I assume the pan, was a good decision. Based on your description it doesn't sound like you flushed the entire system and replenished it with fresh fluid.

    If so, there's still a lot of grud in the system because the remaining ATF is contaminated. I would recommend a complete system flush, or at least do a repeat of filter change every few thousand miles for at least three times, more if you have the patience. At that mileage the old fluid is probably oxidized and contains a lot of moisture, besides solid particles.

    If the silty stuff you saw was gray in color, that's friction material that has worn off the clutches. It is normal to see an amount of this material when a pan is removed. However, it sounds like you transmission had quite a bit, probably because the fluid had never been changed and the fluid had degraded friction modifier component. Usually when trannies get this dirty it clogs the valve body and causes all kinds of other problems. This is definitely not a candidate for a force flush.

    Hard to say what the prognosis is. Keep us posted.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • morganvmorganv Member Posts: 49
    Dusty. well theyve driven driven the dakota around for better than a week and things seem fine. my husband says they're going to pull the pan down in another week about 300 more miles, and see how things are doing. since my daughter's boyfriend now has a job hes wondering what he can do to make sure this transmission will last as long as it can.is there something we can use to flush out the transmision? Also the engine hes says it doesnt' use ant oil but it runs rough when its cold. the spark plugs were replaced about 4 years ago. sounds like this truck has not received much attention. thanks again for your help1 Morgan
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The problem with solvents or chemical additives to cleanse the transmission is that there is a huge potential that the solvent will work too well, loosening excessive amounts of material that can clog servos and passages in the shift body. When high mileage trannies get very dirty from lack of maintenance, I would recommend a displacement or bladder flush. This process uses the pumping pressure of the transmission itself to "displace" ATF stored in a rubber reservoir, thus allowing a relatively low pressure flush.

    ATF+3 contains detergents that will scrub out material, and a suspension catalyst that will hold and carry the unwanted material out when drained or flushed. ATF+4 actually has an improved detergent and catalyst package that does an even better job. The detergents in ATF+ will act upon dirt much more slowly than a force flush and prevent huge amounts of material from flooding the system all at once.

    Unfortunately, this means that dirt in an elevated dirt environment will be present for a much longer duration, requiring more frequent and shortened filter and fluid change intervals. The best way to avoid problems is regular, scheduled maintenance. Despite a reputation that is not correctly deserved, I've seen hundreds of Mopar trannies 150,000 miles and more without repair or rebuild that had routine maintenance. And by the way, this goes for other makers transmissions, too. The majority of transmissions that develop a problem or fail are due to lack of maintenance.

    As far as engine performance, submit another post in the engine or other area and we can comment there.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • extremustangextremustang Member Posts: 1
    theres a metal gasket under the intake manifold thats goes bad, i would start there, mine cost around 650 to get replaced.
  • cragancragan Member Posts: 1
    im stumped, and i dont know where to turn and i need help, my tranny is bout to go its slipping really bad and shifting hard, and fluid is really gritty too, i would like a manuel tranny but dont know what kind will work, i dont want to rebuil the automatic either, i have a dakota r/t with the 5.9 360 please i need help im stumped!!!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Just to be specific... the ol' 1960s-based "LA" small-block V8s (318CI and 360CI) would fail in such a way that the intake-manifold gasket would leak and "suck oil" into the intake.

    It is usually easy to see if your engine has this issue by looking down thru the throttlebody into the intake plenum. (use a flashlight) If you see oil "puddles" in that area... you have the problem described above by (extremustang).

    Unfortunately, the labor to replace the $8 gasket is over $600 because the entire top of the engine must be dismantled.
  • joefrejoefre Member Posts: 1
    Ok here it is, first it was not wanting to go from 2nd into 3rd once it was warmed up. It shifted fine when it was still cold. Then reverse started making wierd noise and not having any power like it is slipping bad. I changed the filter and fluid with the correct fluid. Now it shifts right through pretty good in forward gears but reverse is getting worse by the day. What do I do or try next? I don't have money to throw away and the truck was cheap to start with. Also if this has 1st, 2nd and drive why does it sound like it shifts 5 times when going down the road just easy cruzing along.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    A New Process...er...I mean, New Venture NV3500 is the manual transmission used in a Dakota. Finding one shouldn't be a problem and the tranny will fit right up. But I'm not sure about driveshaft lengths, the PCM is much different and so is the electrical wiring. You'll need to hang a clutch pedal and I think you'll find a plethora of small little things that are different enough to possibly frustrate you.

    Rebuilding a 46RH or 46RE is not a big deal. If you properly maintain an automatic you shouldn't have problems with it, even at high mileage.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Joe,

    Your hearing five events because there are five events in a normal shift sequence. Dodge truck transmissions of that vintage (either 42RH/RE or 46RH/RE) are four speed automatics. The fifth event you are hearing is the torque converter locking. At very light acceleration the torque converter should lock around 42 MPH.

    Unfortunately, I fear that your filter and fluid change came too late. While it appears to have fixed the shifting problem going forward, you might have a worn Direct Clutch, a bad Overdrive Thrust Bearing, or a broken Direct Clutch Spring.

    A loose Rear Band will cause slipping, but they generally don't make any weird noises.

    Can you describe what kind of debris you found in the pan when you changed the filter? How many miles on the vehicle? What engine?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    On a related note... when I was going over the sales-broschure considering which options to order on my Dakota.... I decided AGAINST the automatic for several reasons

    1) It was over $800 added cost.
    2) It *requires* frequent PM (Preventive Maintenance) such as fluid-changes and filter changes.
    3) Significantly more complexatly and risk of failures.
    4) Lower MPG.

    Before ordering my Dak, I also went down to the service-area and asked about the COST of the frequent automatic xmission PMs. It became obvious to me that ordering the automatic xmission was not cost-effective over the life of the vehicle.

    Instead, I opted for the manual xmission which was zero added cost the the purchase-price. Over 95Kmiles, I have changed the fluid ONE TIME... and that was solely to 'upgrade' to RedLine synthetic which made the xmission shift like butter and never need another lube-change again.

    BOTTOM LINE: Unless you have some kind of physical impediment which keeps you from using a clutch.... a manual xmission is a MUCH better choice.

    The Manual xmission coupled with track-loc rear end, 4X4 and Semi-hemi V8 makes for a MEAN truck. I like the fact that I can "light up" both rear tires with my big toe. :shades:
  • rresarresa Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 Dodge Dakota (4.7L 4x4 w/ 545RFE) with 70K miles that I've owned since it was new. I routinely drive short distances to work (11 miles each way). On my last few "long" trips, I have encountered a recurring issue. After driving approximately 60 to 65 miles at freeway speeds, the transmission began to shift from overdrive to drive then back to overdrive, repeating continuously back and forth. This continues and the shifts get harder (larger fluctuations in the RPM gauge) as you continue. I stopped, let the vehicle rest for 20 minutes and started again. After another 20 minutes, the same thing happened again.

    Could this a simple TPS issue or could this be a more serious mechanical issue, such as a torque converter or solenoid. Also, when the vehicle is started in cold weather (less than 30 degrees), it won't shift into OD until the engine is warm. Don't know if the two issues are related or not. The fluid is full and clean, with no "burnt" smell.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I would recommend a rebuild by a qualified and Mopar friendly technician. Off the shelf rebuilds often have an initial mortality if it's not a quality product. A rebuilder must make it right before they deliver the vehicle to you. If you buy one out-of-the-box and there's something wrong, you'll be the one saddled with taking back out and dealing with a delay.

    Another advantage of having a good rebuilder recondition your existing transmission, is you can do a number of upgrades to enhance durability and long term reliability. Dodge truck trannies are easy to work on and upgrade to stronger planetary gear sets that use more pinions, more and stronger clutch and steel sets, and even high performance valve body revisions, among other enhancements. These are very easy to upgrade this way. You can go as far as making a 46RE equivalent to a 48RE in terms of strength and durability if you want to.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    On a 545RFE, shifts to fifth gear are prevented until the automatic transmission fluid reaches 36 degrees F. Torque converter lock-up will not occur until the ATF reaches 80 degrees F.

    Have you replaced the battery recently? If this is the original battery it may be causing intermittent loss of PCM or TCM memory keep alive. You might need to reflash the PCM. In fact, since your 2001 was manufacturered, there have a few transmission flash updates issued.

    An open IOD fuse in the fuse panel (on the instrument panel) will cause irratic shifting problems.

    And, yes, a defective Throttle Position Sensor can and will cause irratic shifting issues as well. In fact, this is a fairly common problem on older Daks.

    Lastly, if you haven't done so yet, I would recommend that the transmission filters be changed. A partially clogged Cooler Return Filter may cause pressure loss after being driven for a while.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • bigcfibigcfi Member Posts: 4
    hello all,,after reading thru all the dakota posts i'm going on a checkout mission before i tackle a change,,i have a 93 dakota extenda cab 4x4 withe a 3.9 auto,,it's been what seem like a slip shifting from2-3,,this started about 2 months ago and seems to be getting worse,,so i just took another trans outa a 93 dakota that had a 5.2 lt motor and have been told that it will work..but after reading all the post on problems i'm reluctant to get started,,alot of issues on these boards seem to deal with tps sensor and the throttle lever and spring and cableso now i'm gonna do some checking and see if one of these may have been causing my problems all along,,i do remember that early this summer my idle adjustment seemed to go down to the point that it would not idle and keep running at a stop sighn,,and i'm wandering if this might have been a sign of the tps going bad?well being a do it your selfer and having 30 yrs of tinkering with vehicles under my belt i adjusted the idle screw up a little and that cured the low idle at stop problem,,i bought this truck about a year ago and it runs like a top,,and the guy i got it from said he had changed the tranny fluid before i bought it,,well around october while driving it it started to feel like it was slipping,,when i got it to my driveway it quit completly,,had to push it in the driveway,,well i thought that was it for mr tranny but deceided to drop the pan and check it out,,the filter was sooo dirty it couldn't be blown thru with compressed air ,,so i changed it and replaced the fluid with atf4 it drove great after that for about a month and started to slip again while driving it will speed up and seem to slip between the 2-3 shifts if i manually shift to 2nd then to drive it will work but not if you apply alot of pedel in drive,,but if you drive it slow it seems to shift right on it's own,,so for the last couple months i've been driving it slow and staying close to home..out my way the cost of another transmission used is about 800 bucks and just cant afford that or the price of a rebuild job,,i found the transmission i got at a good friends yard in a truck that was wrecked and got it very cheap,,so i was about to undertake the change but after reading the posts i'm wandering if it's really whats wrong? so today i'll be checking the other issues,,any more pointers to look for??thanks for all the ideas ,,and i have my fingers crossed that it may be something i just overlooked
    thanks
    bigcfi
  • rresarresa Member Posts: 4
    Thank-you for the replay.

    The battery was replaced (2) years ago, so that should be fine. However, it is due for a tranmission fluid change so that may be a good place to start.

    With respect to the IOD fuse, I don't see one labeled as such.

    When I checked with Autozone, they said a defective TPS would only affect the idle and would not affect the transmission in any way. However, this is contrary to what you and many others have said, so I will give that a try.

    Thank-you for the input.

    Regards
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Battery issues will cause some pretty quirky problems in Dakotas, everything from losing the time on the clock or presets in the radio, random chimes, rough idle, and irratic transmission problems.

    The IOD fuse probably isn't labeled. It isn't on my 2003, either. It is a ten ampere fuse, usually, and on later Daks it's found in cavity 18. But check all of the fuses just to be sure.

    A defective TPS can most certainly cause irratic shifts on Mopars. The person at AutoZone obviously does not know how things work.

    Good Luck and best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    A number of things can cause a 2-3 flair on a 42RE, burnt clutches, sticky servo, bands out-of-adjustment, clogged valve body, or sticking shift solenoids, just to name a few. One thing that will certainly cause this problem is the throttle linkage being out of adjustment or sticking Throttle Valve Cable or Throttle Valve Shaft (pivot on the left side of the transmission case). The operation and adjustment of this valve is critical to correct shifts. If the cable adjustment is too loose the transmission will try to shift into the next higher gear too soon causing low hydraulic pressure and subsequent slipping (flair).

    If I read your message correctly, you are contemplating replacing the transmission in your 3.9 Dakota (a 42RR or RH) with one from a 318 equiped truck. The V8 is either a A518, 44RE/RH or a 46RE/RH. I know it will bolt up, but I'm not sure about the transmission length. I advise taking a length measurement before you yank the tranny out of your truck.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • bigcfibigcfi Member Posts: 4
    thanks dusty,,i've read your replys on all 53 pages and know you know what your talking about,,any good way to tell which tranny i got from the 318,,it came outa a 93 dakota extendta cab 4x4 just like mine...the only numbers on the case are 067-1 in 2 places... big looks like a welded on number and a number stamped by the chrysler logo on top thats 17904 other than those number thats all i can find ,,do any of those numbers sound right?
    also the dip stick is marked use dextron II on it ,,i know i should use mopar 4 fluid right?? but did they originally use dextron 2 in these years??
    i looked at the throttle cable today and it appeared to be a couple mm out of alignment ,,also when i first checked the movement of both throttle and cable it appeared the lever on the tranny was hanging up at first mabey at 1/3 of the travel ,,after i readjusted the cable i tried it again and it didn't seem to stick anymore but still seems sluggish between 2-3 shifts unless i let of the throttle ,,the spring is in place and seems ok ,,it will manually shift 1-2-and 3 with 3 being the most sluggish,,i have changed the filter twice now and there was sludge in the pans both times but no major chunks or peices,,tommorow i'll check the tps for voltage and let ya know what i find ,,thanks for your ideas ,,i really don't want to rip this one out if it could be solved with the trans in ,,\thanks again
    bigcfi
  • bigcfibigcfi Member Posts: 4
    hello again,,well did some more checks today,,tps voltage from computer with key in on position is 4.8,,resistance with tps off vehicle read .4closed to1.9 wide open on 2k scale..readings increased and decreased evenly thru all positions,, so i beleive the tps is working ,,i'm not sure if the numbers are within tolerances i can't find any references to spec's in my haynes manual,,
    you mentioned there may be a lenght issue in changing the 6 tranny with the 5.2 ..i measured both ... the 5.2 i can say definatly is 32"L while the one still in the truck as best i can tell is 32+1/2"L but thats an estimate and kinda tuff to get exact measurements,,the 5.2 tranny part number is PK52118311-1742-2666 and i beleive thats a 46RH part number ,,the tork converter has a sticker on it marked high stall and i've been told to do the change over i need to use my 6cyl flexplate,,correct?,,thanks in advance
    bigcfi
  • bigcfibigcfi Member Posts: 4
    ,,well did some more checks today,,tps voltage from computer with key in on position is 4.8,,resistance with tps off vehicle read .4closed to1.9 wide open on 2k scale..readings increased and decreased evenly thru all positions,, so i beleive the tps is working ,,i'm not sure if the numbers are within tolerances i can't find any references to spec's in my haynes manual,,
    you mentioned there may be a lenght issue in changing the 6 tranny with the 5.2 ..i measured both ... the 5.2 i can say definatly is 32"L while the one still in the truck as best i can tell is 32+1/2"L but thats an estimate and kinda tuff to get exact measurements,,the 5.2 tranny part number is PK52118311-1742-2666 and i beleive thats a 46RH part number ,,the tork converter has a sticker on it marked high stall and i've been told to do the change over i need to use my 6cyl flexplate,,correct?,, also i checked the codes stored in the computer,,i had 5 codes but never had the check engine light come on,,the codes were 12,,32,,24,,15,,17,,i cleared them and drove it to see if they came back and the only 2 that came back were 12 and 32 and the slipping seemd to stop but seems to have less power and i think that could be comming from the egr code ,,will replace that before i continue with the tranny issues ,, are the tps check readings ok and within limits?
    thanks in advance
    bigcfi
  • rresarresa Member Posts: 4
    Dusty,

    Thank-you for the updates as they are most helpful!!!

    I found the IOD fuse and it is good, so I will start will changing the TPS then get a trans fluid changed / flushed and get a new trans filter.

    One question on the TPS, do you need to reset the PCM and if so, can this be done by disconnecting the battery for a short time or is there more involved. Thanks!
  • ndcndc Member Posts: 5
    My 2002 dakota sport has 105000 miles on it I have the 545RFE trans. Problem is that when excelerating once I'm at 45 mph the transmission will jerk and seems to kick out of overdrive. If I were to stop shut the truck off and restart it I will have overdrive back. It doesn't happen all the time. If I keep it out of overdrive it runs just fine. The check engine light does come on but clears itself if it doesn't happen for a while. Just change fluid/filters. Still happening.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    No, you do not need to reset the PCM after replacing the TPS. However, if after replacing the TPS things are still not right, try disconnecting the battery for two minutes and try it again. Sometimes the Transmission Control Module (TCM) will keep compensating for a TPS problem (Throttle Position Out of Range) and run the computer adaptive algorithm all the way to the end of its value. This can give you irratic or strange shift sequences.

    You will lose all Priority 0 through 4 DTC stored faults and learned shift schedule. However, all Chrysler automatic transmissions are at least semi-adaptive (all RFE versions are fully adaptive) and after some drive time will relearn.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I could give you some ideas, but they could all be wrong. Since the CHECK ENGINE lamp has been illuminating, it is going to set a fault code in the PCM. This discussion will benefit greatly by knowing what the faults are.

    In the meantime, have you performed any transmission maintenance on this vehicle in the past?

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Late model A-series and all RE & RH series transmission have their identification markings stamped onto the edge of the transmission pan flange on the left side of the transmission case. There are three sets of numbers: the first ten digits are the part number, the second four digits are the build date, and the last set of four are serial number of the case. A-series had the model welded on the side of the case. Newer versions rely on the stamped part number. (RFEs use a white label.)

    With the exception of the Aisin-Warner Jeep tranny, never use Dexron in a Mopar truck transmission. Never. Yes, Chrysler stamped the use of Dexron on to dipsticks for a number of years, and I can tell you they are real sorry now. They did this to indicate that Dexron could be used in very small quanity to bring the transmission fluid level to specification, however this was not approved in their service manuals. But, many people thought this implied that Dexron was approved for use, and it wasn't, especially in quanties more than one quart. As we know now, one quart of Dexron added to ATF+3 will cause accelerated degradation of the fluid.

    If thje Throttle Valve pivot on the transmission is still sluggish, you may need to replace the shaft. I've seen these get corroded on older transmissions, especially those that had a high moisture content in the fluid (another reason to change fluid regulary!).

    It sounds like you were reading TPS voltage with a digital meter. The voltages are within range, but you cannot determine a rough spot on the potentiometer wiper (resistive) surface with a digital meter. Here's where an old fashioned analog VOM will do a better job. However, I gave up on checking this after I found that I thought one was good after test, but it proved to be bad anyway. Because of the age and vintage, I would suggest just replacing it. They had a higher rate of defects in those years.

    I'm not into tranny swaps, so I do not consider myself qualified to comment on the flex plate issue. However, I'm pretty sure the flex plates are different between a 42 and 46RH.

    I think I answered all of your questions.

    Good luck and best regards,
    Dusty
  • ndcndc Member Posts: 5
    Dusty,

    I got the truck with 70000 miles on it and I changed the fluid/filters at 105000. I just went and checked the code its reading P0700. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Nate
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    "My 2002 dakota sport has 105000 miles on it I have the 545RFE trans. Problem is that when excelerating once I'm at 45 mph the transmission will jerk and seems to kick out of overdrive. If I were to stop shut the truck off and restart it I will have overdrive back. It doesn't happen all the time. If I keep it out of overdrive it runs just fine. The check engine light does come on but clears itself if it doesn't happen for a while. Just change fluid/filters. Still happening."

    P0700 = Transmission Control System Malfunction

    Unfortunately the P0700 code doesn't tell us much, but I have a suggestion on a couple of things to try before going to a dealer and having a DRB3 connected to it.

    1. Check all of the electrical connections at the transmission. Disconnect each connector and check for any signs of corrosion, moisture, or damaged pins. Check for damaged wiring. Perform the same checks at the Power Train Control Module (PCM) and Transmission Control Module (TCM). The TCM is part of the PCM and is mounted to the inside of the right fender.

    2. Replace the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).

    3. Disconnect the battery for several minutes. This will erase the stored learned shift algorithm. Drive the vehicle and let the transmission relearn.

    If these recommendations don't work, I suggest having a Dodge tech. check this out. You might need a TCM reflash. A defective shift solenoid or dirty valve body could cause this problem, as well as a bad coolant temperature or transmission temperature sensor, or for that matter, a bad PCM/TCM.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • 02flhtc02flhtc Member Posts: 3
    hey everyone newby here just wondering if anyone can help
    i've got a 2000 slt dakota 4.7 ltr 4x4 quad trans revs between shifts and seems to slip
    slow to go into drive but reverses right away also on highway seems to buck a little and if i throttle to pass its revs again
    fluid seems good no burnt smell nice red colour
    already replaced tps any help would be greatly appreciated
    thanks mike
  • dugie57dugie57 Member Posts: 1
    Just curious if you ever got any response to your question...I am having the exact same problem with my 98 Dakota V6 3.9 ltr engine...EXACT same problem...fime after it warms up a bit....Transmission place wants $1350.00 to rebuild ( seals, torque converter? ann whatever else...
  • ndcndc Member Posts: 5
    Dusty,

    After checking all the wiring and replacing the TPS Im still having the problem. So today I took it into a respectable dealership to have it looked at. They checked it out with a DBR and informed me that I needed a rebulid ($4300). I have a hard time beleiving this and thought maybe you could either assure me that I need a rebuild or give me more ideas to the problem.

    I have some results from the DBR test I thought this could be helpful info. Not completely sure what all of it means. But this is why they said I need a rebuild.

    CVI: LR=93 2C=56 OD=55 UD=48 4C=0 (THIS 4C IS WHY THEY SAID I NEED A REBUILD THEY THOUGHT THAT SOMETHING WAS BROKE OFF IN THE TRAN.)

    Also, since the last time I posted a message I've learned that the transmission is fine after it warms up.

    Thank You,
    Nate
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    How many miles on this transmission and have you ever performed a transmission maintenance?

    I would first replace the transmission filters, both the Primary Transmission Filter and the Cooler Return filter. The Cooler Return Filter looks like a very small spin-on engine oil filter. Chrysler became extremely sensitive to debris management with the RFE transmission series. It incorporates an exceptionally fine filter media that traps debris down to 6 micron. Unfortunately, this is a high efficiency filter with a relatively low capacity and it can clog easily if there is a lot of debris in the fluid.

    Also, if its ever been replaced, there were some Cooler Return Filters that were bad for a while.

    If this does not solve the problem, try disconnecting the battery for two minutes and go through a relearn. If that doesn't work, have a Dodge technician put a DRB3 diagnostic tool on it. You may have lost the shift algorithm or need a flash update.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Yeah, I don't think 4C should be zero, but that could be caused by something else.

    I'm sorry I'm getting this on Sunday. Let me get back to you.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • rx2manrx2man Member Posts: 14
    I have spoken with a few mechanics and they all agree the Dodge 45RFE is a solid transmission. But if you goto some of the shops they will say you need a tranny straight up. From what I have read, the TPS can be a issue, also computers become corrupted and need to be reflashed, about $100. The other issue is the transmission input and output sensors and there are 2 filters that need to be replaced when doing the trans service. There's a flat one and a spin on inside. I have done changed everything but the two input/output sensors. Each time the trany has improved but still issues, hoping the last 2 sensors do it. Will replace this week
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    It's unfortunately true, a lot of shops will automatically turn you into a rebuild. But just like for doctors, one should get a second opinion. RFEs just don't have that many problems, and they break even less. My Dodge transmission tech. has never had to take one down. Any problems have been repaired without transmission removal.

    There was a loose accumulator plate problem on some early versions, which would cause the plate to eventually bend, I've heard of a couple of marginal sensors, and yes, the Cooler Return Filter can get clogged very quickly on these trannies. But all these problems can be resolved on the vehicle.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Nate,

    Based on your numbers there is something definitely wrong. The Low Reverse clutch pressure is too high, the 2C clutch and Overdrive clutch pressures seem within range. I consulted with a Dodge tranny tech and he thinks the Underdrive clutch pressure is too low.

    The 4C clutch pressure doesn't make any sense since you say that after being warmed up it drives okay. Basically at zero it's telling you that the 4C clutch requires absolutely no pressure to apply which doesn't make sense if it drives. This could be an erroneous reading I suppose.

    The rebuilding quote seems unreasonably high. Heck, you could probably buy a brand new complete transmission across the parts counter for nearly that price. Unless this transmission's been abused, I would suspect that most of the hard components are still good (panetaries, shafts, etc.). You might need clutches or maybe a valve body, but that would be just speculation. You really don't know until you pull it apart.

    You know, it might pay to get a second opinion.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • ndcndc Member Posts: 5
    Dusty,

    Thanks for all the info. I think the first thing I'll do is get a second opinion.

    I might try changing a few sensors just to make myself feel better about a rebuild. I guess it just doesn't seem right that its fine after it warms up.

    I'll be sure to keep you updated to the problem.

    Thanks again,
    Nate
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Nate,

    The 545RFE has been out better than eight years and in that time I've heard of one major failure, and that was a broken sun gear on a 2000 Cherokee. I asked my Dodge guy the other day and another transmission tech. yesterday if they've seen any 545RFEs apart. I figured that after eight years you'd start seeing a few. Neither have had an opportunity to do a rebuild, in fact both said they've never removed one from a vehicle. Anything that's gone wrong was correctable either with a reflash or pulling the pan.

    I've heard of two sensor failures on a 545RFE, both on the net. As mentioned before, there was a bent accumulator plate issue, but that was assembly related and fixed a long time ago. The guys I've talked to seem to think most problems are fluid related as each said the most they taken apart were valve bodies.

    I did think about your symptom and the goofy no pressure on the 4C clutch. I don't know if this is possible with this design, but maybe the 4C clutch is hung up. I can't think of another reason to get a zero pressure reading other than the reading is false, or you have a bad computer. I'd be tempted to erase the PCM and reflash the computer just to see what the effect would be..

    By all means, let us know what the end result is.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • jvinzantjvinzant Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1988 dakota 4x4 with a 3.9L and the auto overdrive transmission. The truck has 74,000 original miles on it. I purchased it off of an elderly gentleman that could not drive no longer. I have gave it a complete tune up, changed the trans fluid (ATF+4), and replaced the coolant temperature sensor.

    On to the problem. When the temperature is less than 40 degrees outside the truck will not shift into overdrive or use lockup from what I can tell. I have a 15 mile commute so there is plenty of time to get the truck fully warmed up. The trans shifts perfectly otherwise. You can feel all of the gears engaging and lockup when the temperature is warmer.

    I have read through all 56 pages looking for a similar problem but have found none. Hopefully somebody here can head me in the right direction to cure this problem. Thanks.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    By design the transmission will not shift into overdrive or go into converter lock-up until the transmission fluid temperature reaches a certain temperature on newer Mopars, usually at 80 degrees F. Your '88 probably has a A518 transmission and I'm not sure it had this design feature, but I don't believe it did. If it did, there is a fluid temperature sensor inside the transmission.

    Have you tried replacing the Throttle Position Sensor? Have you checked the Throttle Valve Cable adjustment?

    Regards,
    Dusty
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