Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I have a '07 Dakota 2wd, 3.7L Auto trans. 36,547 miles. Any thought on why it won't shift?? Took it out on the interstate yesterday, 4,500 rpm at 60 mph.
TIA for your help!!!!!
Gene
John451
Has your Dakota always performed as you described or is this a recent development?
Your comments caught my attention because I am currently using my Dad's 2003 Dakota SXT with same engine and transmission as you have. Dad is in rehab for physical therapy and I have been using/exercising the Dakota. Yes, it has all the trademarked "rough around the edges" characteristics of a Chrysler Product: ie; Poor fit and finish, engine that operates normally, but roars like a machine shop, and is especially noisy when sticking in the reluctant low gear...I absolutely hate to drive this vehicle because it handles like a slug, thus becoming a road hazard. I thought I was just spoiled by the super handling and refinement of my own Honda, personal vehicles. But you have also noted this drive line flaw in the Dakota, so perhaps it is normal?
I have only known poor, sluggish performance from this vehicle since using it during the past several months. Anyone else know if sluggish shifting is normal on the Dakota? Will be interesting to see what others have to say about their own experience with the 2003 Dakota drive train.
Thanx
** i get a code 45
Governor pressure solenoid circuit.,Overdrive solenoid circuit.,Governor mid-pressure malfunction., Overdrive switch low.**
And a Code 37
Transmission temperature sensor detected no temperature rise after start.**or Transmission temperature sensor voltage too low or too high.**or Relationship between engine speed and vehicle speed indicates no torque converter clutch engagement.**or An open or shorted condition detected in the torque converter part throttle unlock solenoid control circuit.**
Can any body tell me what parts or sensors i need to replace to get my overdrive back ,,i need my overdrive..... Thanks
I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota Regular Cab that I have some tranny issues with. Yesterday, the check engine light came on and I retrieved the transmission DTCs after scanning it. They are as follows: 1790, 0731, 0731, 0733, 0734, 1793. When the light came on, the truck seemed to want to keep moving after coming to a stop and nearly stalling. I got the truck back to the garage and pulled the pan...the fluid is clean but smells a little burnt, the filters are clean and there were zero shavings on the magnet.
After sitting for about an hour, the truck ran and shifted fine, but once it was driven for about 40 minutes in regular traffic, the problem began again.
The truck is lifted with 35 inch tires, but the TCM and PCM were both reprogrammed by Dodge to match the tire requirement.
Has anyone else had this problem? If it were a mechanical problem inside the transmission, I would expect it all of the time, instead of just when it has been run for a period of time.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, as I do not feel like dropping a grand for a new tranny.
Thanks!
You had the same problem as I am experiencing? I bought the truck used, so I am not sure if Chrysler will be as willing to work with me on the issues. Did they say what the actual problem is? I am somewhat leaning towards the TCM, but trying cheap fixes first.
I was out of town and I developed a loud "whirring" sound that would go away somewhat after it had been idling for awhile. This went on for the week. When I was on my way back into town, I started to get a rev anytime I slightly increased or decreased my speed. Anything above or around 2000 rpms usually, nothing lower. Welp, the noise stopped. The idler pulley sheared off and I had to wait for my friend to come and bring me a new one along with a new belt. I replaced the idler pulley and belt. I got back on the freeway only to find it revving again (about a 200 rpm surge) around 60 to 80 miles an hour (1900-2300RPM) while just barely giving it gas, sometimes my foot is steady and it will do this. When I got home, I replaced the tensioner pulley thinking it was bad and also added 24 ounces of Lucas Oil Transmission Stop Leak fluid to the tranny. I drove it around only to find it doing the same thing again. I can floor it and not have any rev issues. I can drive under 60 or so and it won't do it either. Do I have a vacuum leak or a slipping tranny??
Got truck stuck and after getting it out, trans is stuck in drive in every gear range P R N D. It will run fine in drive and shift out but will not come out of drive even in park and reverse. Any suggestions?
fine for a day or so. Wen it come back it is hard to get up a hill. Does anyone know
where the sensor is located.
I want to go deer hunting in VA and it is a 3 hour drive on the highway. Don't want to get stuck on the side of the road. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Just in case: its a 318 V8. How can I tell if its the LA motor or a Magnum? Should it have the badges on the fenders if its a Magnum or does that not matter?
Millan
Have pity on me!!! Help!!!
any ideas – thanks
This problem is accompanied by the engine light. The codes are: P1757, P1762, P1763, & P0138. I went to an aftermarket shop and they replaced the trans governor pressure solenoid, and the governor pressure sensor. They told me that there was nothing unusual found in the trans when they dropped the pan, and that the codes 1757 and 1762 went away after this repair. Unfortunately the same shifting problem came back.
When I brought it back to them, they told me that it was the PCM. When they tried to replace it, they couldn't program it, and I told them to give me my truck back, and now the ABS light is flashing and beeping. :mad: Well, I replaced the PCM, and guess what, that didn't fix it either. The ABS light is still flashing, however, the P0138 code is gone. P1763 is the only code remaining. P1763 - Governor pressure sensor volts too high.
When I manually run it through the gears everything works fine. Reverse is working well.
I've been reading about TPS switches, sensors and a governor valve. Any idea with where I should start?
I first started noticing a couple of days ago when starting the truck it was turning over slower then normal at about the same time I noticed that my auto trans was acting strange,once in a while as I left a red light it would almost feel like it was in neutral and as the RPM's picked up a bit the tranny would hit and go,but this only happened a couple of times.
This morning I went to start the truck and the battery was dead,pulled off the connections and cleaned them and then jumped started it and it started right up but would not idol. If I kept the rpm's up it would run fine. let it idol and it died right away.
I managed to 2 foot it for a 15 min drive and again the trans acted up in the same way. I kept my eye on the battery meter and it didn't seem to be over to the charge side as I expected it to be. Drove it home and now warm it would idol but seemed low and on the verge of stalling. Shut the truck off and tried to start it and still dead battery. BTW the trans fluid is right up and looks and smells good. Also there is NO "service engine" or "check engine" light on.I also think it's the original battery in the truck. Thanks for any help you may be able to give me.
Everything else in drive works fine. Beautifully in such a fine, fine truck. (My first v6 the size of a v8)
Ah. Sounds like the shift cable is binding (46RE) or you have a bad Transmission Range Sensor (mounted on the side of the transmission).
Have someone fix:
*Gear selector out of adjustment
* Rear band loose (adjustment)
* Throttlebody malfunction (dirty or worn)
* Broken or severely worn rear band
*Defective or inoperative front clutch
*Overdrive thrust bearing failure
Check the shift cable (46RE) Test, if not
Check the transmission Throttle Cable. If sticking it can cause most of your issues. If not
Transmission Range Sensor (mounted on the side of the transmission). But wouldn't this show up on the Reader with code????
If not...it's up to the mechanic to make a determination, and I don't want to be bamboozled: In order of checking.
* Rear band loose (adjustment) (Don't they do that when they change the tranny oil?) What if someone used the wrong oil. how can I tell??? Do I trash the whole thing??? or do a soft rebuild)
* Throttlebody malfunction (dirty or worn)
* Broken or severely worn rear band
*Defective or inoperative front clutch
*Overdrive thrust bearing failure
Linkage out of adjustment
*inoperative or worn front clutch
*Rear band misadjusted
*Worn or broken overdrive thrust bearing
*Broken direct clutch spring"
Thanks so much for your advice.
Now it is more frequent and sometimes doesn't shift out of third.
codes are P0700 and P1776
Any ideas?
any ides?
oh i got 95,000 miles and i bought it from a dealer 1 month ago.
called him up and as you would think he would say... "not his problem"
so being that i just spent $4,300 on this truck i have no more money and I'm hoping its something just out of adjustment... :sick:
oh NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON...EITHER!