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Comments
Thanks
If you have the 46re transmission with the shift solenoid, the PCM
will shift from 1st to 2nd around 2500 rpm, then from 2nd to 3rd around
2200rpm. Once in 3rd gear, it will shift to OD and the rpms will drop down
to about 1500rpm as long as you are at low speeds. This is the way
my truck shifts. The shifting is done by the PCM as it learns your driving
habits. The sensor that determines this shifting is the TSS (Transmission
speed sensor or vehicle speed sensor) located on the transmission.
These don't have grease fittings, so in time (24 yrs), you have to figure that the U-joints have served you well, if it's just starting to vibrate now.
Don't leave it that way for very long, as that vibration is hard on the tranny and it could result in some expensive transmission repairs!
If it was mine, I would have them replaced ASAP.
its a 05 Dakota 4.7l v8 qaud cab 2 wheel drive... has 60,000 miles runs strong just the initial stall till it ingages..
I thank Anyone that has any knowledge bout it....
shift into Neutral, the transmission fluid pump (running with the engine idleing) will fill up
the torque converter so that when you switch to Drive, the torque convertor is operational.
That is why you should always check fluid level on Chrysler transmissions in Neutral, not
Park.
There is a drainback valve located in the transmission line next to the radiator that prevents
fluid drainback when the vehicle is parked for a lengthy time. Maybe it's blocked and restricting
fluid flow to the pressure pump in the transmission.
The other thing is that it takes a second or two, to build up the pressure in the govenor pressure solenoid/regulator valve on the transmission control body to allow the PCM to shift for you.
There is a fluid pressure sensor in the govenor regulator transmission that feeds back
pressure information to the PCM to allow shifting.
There is also a temperature sensor that tells the PCM when the correct transmission temperature is reached (thermistor) for overdrive operation, but this shouldn't affect
the lower gear shifts.
Auto transmissions are very complicated, so it's hard to zero in on what the problem may be
in your case, as there may be a simple cause for the delay in your case.
Inside the transmission control valve body there are 1-2 , 2-3 and 3-4 (overdrive) shift valves, as well as the planetary gear set and a forward and rear clutch and bands that control shifting. Correct fluid pressure is required for these to function in normal operation.
until after a few weeks, finally I got the transmission related P7xx series
code come up and it was the TSS (transmission speed sensor or OSS
Output speed sensor) P-0722, that was causing the high rpm/hard shift problem. I had the transmission speed sensor replaced and shifting
returned back to normal. No re-programming was necessary as the PCM
relearns the shift points from your driving habits.
As far as the low fuel pressure, that will drop off over time when the
truck is sitting there overnight, but as soon as you turn the the key
on and the fuel pump relay operates, the fuel rail should be pressurized
to 45psi within one second, before starting, so that part doesn't
make any sense to me. I use a aftermarket fuel pressure guage to
check my fuel rail occasionally and it maintains pressure for a long time
with the ignition off.
rpm for an automatic and it will hardly move at that rpm.
If it revs up to 4000 rpm and is only going 20mph, it appears not
to be shifting out of 1st gear.
It depends on several factors: mileage, when transmission was last serviced etc..
a 2002 is 9 years old and requires fluid/filter/adjustment service
every 3 or 4 years.
There are 3 sensors and and 3 electrical solenoids operated by the PCM
in the transmission. There is also a throttle position sensor that feeds
back information to the PCM to help it determine parameters for shift
points as well as a transmission speed sensor.
These can be scanned by a DRB scan tool which most dealers have, to see
if any faults occur. (Transmission shops may also have the DRB scan tool. )
Also, most electrical failures in the sensors, or transmission control solenoids may bring on a "check engine" light, that can be scanned by any OBDII scan tool, which most owners can afford,
or have read by someone with one of these.
Mechanically the transmission is complex, with 2 planetary gear sets and
a system of clutches (front/rear, overriding and direct) as well as
bands (front/rear) to operate these for gear shifting.
These require proper fluid pressure in the control valve body to operate
bands and servos that facilitate the shift points under control of the
PCM.
So it depends on where the problem lies, when the transmission is placed
in D and the engine rpm and transmission pump fluid pressure inside
the transmission determines when gear shifting occurs
1-> 2 upshift point.....or 2->3 upshift point or 3->4 upshift point
(when the over drive unit kicks in).
Proper shifting requires proper operation of each section of the transmission
responsible for the gear change, be it an automatic upshift or downshift.
Here's a simple test. Does manual shifting from 1->2 or 2- D work?
If so that will provide a clue of which parts may be still operating and which
parts under automatic or PCM control or not.
It will come on both with in minutes of starting or after running for a period of time.
Fluid levels have been fine. and the fluid didn't need to be changed.
Any ideas?
have material that is prone to wear over time. Nothing you can do if the
the clutch material is worn, so some slippage may occur, but the bands (2)
can be adjusted, once the pan is dropped.
Throttle body valves sticking is the most common issue if the fluid and filter
is not changed at regular intervals and this is something that should be
done on a regular (50,000 mile basis or even 40,000 miles). The owners
manual gives a schedule for routine maintenance and oil changes on the
engine, why would someone ignore a complex mechanism like the
auto transmission..I don't know, but if you ignore periodic maintenance
on an automatic, sooner or later, you will have some trouble with it.
The last thing that can happen with the Chrysler PCM controlled transmissions, is that there are solenoids and sensors that are controlled
by the PCM to determine shift points and these can fail.
The transmission shops usually don't have the time to spare for an accurate
diagnosis of what has gone wrong on a transmission with practically
100K miles on it, so he has offered a couple of options..
replace the entire transmission and get some kind of 1 year garantee
or replace the electrical components on it (cheaper) and hope that
fixes the problem.
Certainly a second opinion is worthwhile, if it was mine, and I knew
basically what the symptoms were, I would go with the routine service
first (fluid/filter)and have the bands adjusted and perhaps the solenoids
replaced at the same time, while the pan was off.
The Chrysler automatic has two sensors that are related to it.
The first one is a sensor that determines transmission shift pressure
and it's output to the PCM will vary depending on the pressure of the
fluid available at the shift valves in the control valve body.
The second one is a thermistor type that senses the temperature of
the fluid in the transmission to determine proper shift points when
components are warmed up. Ie: the transmission will not shift into
overdrive (4 gear) until the sensor tells the PCM that the predetermined
temperature range has been reached.
Transmission fluid temperature is regulated by the transmission cooler lines
(you have two..one going to the transmission cooler tank on the side of the
rad and the other coming back from from the rad to the transmission.
These help to warm up the transmission fluid transferred from the rad heat
and depending on how good your rad is at cooling the engine, keeps the
transmission at some predetermined temperature, if the rad is providing
adequate cooling.
So in summary:
a) It could an actual transmission cooling issue bring on the light, and the rad or the transmission cooler tank needs to be reversed flushed.
On the rad/ transmission cooler tank, there is an anti-drainback
valve at the fittingof the outlet line that goes back to the torque convertor. (This prevents all the fluid in the tank from draining back to the torque convertor when the engine is not running) and this being a one-way valve, it may be restricted somewhat.
b) it may be the transmission temperature sensor itself, (this is a 5 volt
sensor).
If it is not functioning properly, the PCM will turn on a check engine
light and you should be able to read a code:
P-0712 Transmission temp voltage too low (under 1.55v)
P-0713 Transmission temp voltage too high (over 3.76 volts)
So obviously, if it is working, the voltage range that the PCM expects
to see is between 1.55 to 3.75 volts (In other words, only a
spread of 2.2v to determine the transmission temperature).
Normal idle rpm should be around 1,000 when first started and engine/tranny is cold.
The delayed shifts when cold from 1st to 2nd are normally controlled by the PCM with the shift solenoid (also called the variable force valve solenoid). The transmission also has a TCC (torque convertor clutch solenoid) and a 3-4 (overdrive) shift solenoid.
Transmission output shaft rpm is sensed by the TSS sensor, which feeds back to the PCM to determine normal PCM controlled shift points. It may be starting to develop a weird symptom.
Had it failed completely, you would get a P-0720 "check engine light"code
posted by the PCM.
"TSS output too low with vehicle speed above 15 mph".
It's a possibility in your case.
I recently had hard shifting problems with mine, until I finally got that code and changed out the TSS. Shifting rpm returned to normal under
PCM control.
electronically controlled by the engine computer, or in the Dakotas, the
PCM (powertrain control module).
By hanging in first gear, you must mean a "delayed shift" where the engine
rpm on the tach goes way up above the normal 1-2 shift range and finally
excessive fluid pressure build up in the transmission pressure governor
(which controls the shift valves in the control valve body) forces a hard shift.
It could be that the temperature of the transmission is not reached yet
at the beginning because the engine (and transmission) is still cold.
A transmission temperature sensor feeds back the temperature range
to the PCM, but this may only be needed for 3-4 (overdrive) shifts, I
don't know if it is used for 1-2 or 2-3 shifts.
The governor solenoid (PCM controlled shift solenoid on the transmission)
the springs involved and the governor pressure sensor all play a critical
part in shifting the transmission at the correct engine rpm.
My 2000 Ram shop manual (46re transmission type) states that for
delayed or erratic shifts, also harsh at times:
Possiblities:
1. Fluid level too low or too high.
( Fluid level on chrysler automatics needs
to be check in NEUTRAL with the parking brake on. In park the torque
convertor is not completely filled. It is only when the shift column is
moved from P through N to D that the torque convertor fills up completely.)
2. Fluid filter clogged
3. Throttle linkage misadjusted
4. Throttle linkage binding somewhere
5. Gearshift cable/linkage misadjusted
6. Clutch or servo failure
(the chrysler transmission has several fluid pressure activated clutches,
with two bands. The servos operate the two bands.
7. Governor circuit electrical fault (Governor pressure solenoid)
8. Front band misadjusted
9. Transmission fluid pump suction passage leak
This last one would be indicated by foam on the transmission dipstick
So as you can see, there are just too many things that can cause delayed
or erratic shifting,
The PCM (in it's flash memory) has a stored program of shift points learned
from your driving habits. It depends on the the TSS (transmission speed
sensor data and governor pressure sensor to determine shift points.
It also gets data from the transmission temperature sensor to determine
when to shift..but this is a simple thermistor type and rarely if ever goes
faulty.
I need to know the proper size (tread pitch and length) of the bolts that hold the transmission mounting bracket directly to the transmission. NOT the insulator or tansmission mount bolts.
Just the bolts holding the mounting bracket to the Trans.
Thank You.
forced a downshift like that from 0/D to 3rd. With no codes available and
the truck disabled and the diagnostic connector hooked up afterwards,
any codes that might have been there maybe were gone?
The only thing I can think of on that kind of hard downshift from o/D to
3rd is that the transmission temperature sensor reported a high temperature condition in the transmission and the PCM forced a downshift
on you automatically. This will happen if the temperature exceeds 260F
(126C) and the the PCM forces the downshift to engage the convertor clutch
and the rpms go up to allow the fan to turn faster to allow more cooling
through the rad. The PCM will not allow re-engaging o/D until the temperature goes back down to 230F (110C).
If this occured, then no codes would probably be stored.
be more to this story than what you have described here.
The transmission downshifting from O/D to 3rd is a normal occurrance and
should not lock up the rear wheels as you have described, causing you
to lose control.
The transmission has electro-mechanical as well as pressure controls to
facilitate up and down shifting. The upshifting is done by the PCM when
the appropriate TRANMISSION RPM, VEHICLE SPEED and transmission pressure regulator sensor feed back information to the PCM to allow it
to shift. The shift from 3rd to 4th (O/D) is controlled entirely by the
PCM, but you send in a manual request (via the O/D switch on the stalk)
to disable O/D and if you hit it again, enable O/D.
The gear ratios for a 46re automatic transmission are as follows:
1st 2.45 : 1 (engine crankshaft rotates 2.45 times to 1 rotation of
the driveshaft).
2nd 1.45 : 1
3rd 1.0 :1
O/D (4th) 0.69:1
In overdrive the crankshaft turns more slowly than the o/p shaft of
the transmission in order to lower rpms and save on fuel on
Level Roads. Once you start to climb some steep hills, the O/D should
be switched off manually, or the PCM may disengage it on you to protect
the engine.
This has a lot to do with throttle position, engine rpm and the transmission
throttle cable that goes from the throttle body down to the transmission.
If the TPS sensor is malfunctioning or the TSS (transmission speed sensor)
is malfunctioning, shifting will be erratic forces hard shifts with engine
rpm climbing much higher than normal when the PCM sets the shift points.
For the rear wheels to lock up like that, either there was a temporary
malfunction in the throttle position (sensor) or you pressed down on
the accelerator so hard that the throttle position cable FORCED the
downshifts into 2nd or even 1st gear..if that occurred, then the rear
wheels would "lock up" because of the abrupt huge gear ratio change at
speed and the engine torque delivered to the rear wheels at the lower
gear ratio while the vehicle was still moving forward from the higher
gear ratio selected before it happened.
In other words, if you are moving at 60mph and all of a sudden you get
an abnormal downshift to 2nd or even 1st..the engine RPM will shoot up to 4500rpm from a normal 1800 to 2200 rpm, and that corresponding horsepower will deliver a solid punch to the driving wheels at a lower
gear ratio, causing them to lockup, vehicle skid and loss of control.
with older vehicles or high mileage vehicles, the timing chain does
stretch and throw off the timing. Even though it's inside the engine, it
is a wear and tear item and people don't realize that. The timing chain
is very critical to maintaining absolute timing between the valves and
the pistons. If the timing chain gets stretched, the engine timing is
incorrect for producing the rated power of the engine because the
valves are not bring in a fresh charge of fuel-air mixture or allowing
the exhaust to be scavenged out by the piston on the exhaust stroke,
so less fuel air mixture can be drawn into the cylinder on the INTAKE
stroke because the valve opens too early or too late and conversely
on the exhaust stroke of the piston where the exhaust valve is
opening too soon or too late.
The PCM can only adjust ignition timing a degree or two either way, it
cannot compensate for a stretched timing chain where the relationship
between each cylinder's intake and exhaust valve and piston position is
off. That's why aftermarker ROLLER chains are preferred over the old fashioned link chains.
You have to replace the complete set of crankshaft gear, camshaft gear when using a double link roller timing chain. (These come with the chain).
the hard shift OR the clutch inside the transmission responsible for shifts between 1st
and 2nd is worn or doesn't have enough fluid pressure.
What does it do in the manual gear ranges?
Here's what the 2000 Dodger Ram shop manual has to say about it (46re transmission)
Slips in low gear (D) only, but not in manual 1 position.
Overrunning clutch faulty. Replace overrunning clutch.
In D 1st the only two clutches used are:
REAR CLUTCH
OVERRUNNING CLUTCH
To go to D 2nd, it needs the FRONT BAND and the REAR CLUTCH to function at
the correct rpm. The PCM does an electronic shift using a solenoid valve
(governor valve) in the transmission electronic control part of the valve body,
which is responsible for operating the bands and clutches on the two stage
planetary gear sets.
saying that it "just quit on you", there could be a number of possibilties.
a)The transmission fluid (oil) pump inside isn't building up pressure to operate the clutches and bands necessary for gear changes.
b) valve body (the control part of the transmission) has a serious fluid leak
internally and possibly one of the shift valves (1-2) or (2-3), park to neutral, neutral to drive, are no longer functioning.
c) Transmission internal damage..could be anything, even if there were
no tell tale metal parts showing up in the pan.
d) Park/neutral switch on transmission?
Time to take it in and replaced.
finally occurs?
And they rebuilt the transmission? What exactly did they do to it?
The Dodge automatic is a complex transmission, with a oil pump,
2 planetary gear sets, a set of clutches, a set of bands and the servos
to operate them as well as a valve control body, a pressure governor,
variable force solenoid and sensor, and various shift valves inside
the valve control body of the transmission, so it's hard to give an
answer without observing operation on a hoist and monitoring transmission rpm and fluid pressure at the test ports.
For 1-2 shifting to take place in D, there are several components of the
transmission involved..
transmission fluid pump,
governor pressure is a variable pressure input to the valve body and is one
of the signals that a shift is necessary.
Different sets of clutches and bands are operated or released.
There is also a TCC (torque convertor clutch solenoid on the valve body,
but I don't think this is involved yet,
in the 1-2 shifts which involve:
25 to 70psi being available at the valve body
1-2 shift valve, 1-2 shift control valve, 1-2 shift regulator valve.
Lockup valve and lockup solenoid
lockup timing valve.
If you are experiencing harsh shifts 1-2, or 2-3 or 3-4, it could be
attributed to a lockup solenoid malfunction. Did they do pressure test
at the test ports on the transmission?
If it's due to a solenoid malfunction which is in the valve body, the pan
has to come off and the valve body removed to replace the solenoid
assembly.
The transmission shift points are controlled by the PCM based on a
appropriate rpm, and transmission fluid pressure feedback to the PCM.
It operates a variable force solenoid, TCC solenoid, and 3-4 shift (O/D
solenoid).
The variable force solenoid is operated by the PCM in D when it receives
the appropriate transmission output shaft rpm (TSS) sensor and the appropriate pressure in the transmission pressure sensor to facilitate PCM gear shifting for you.
If the PCM shift points are not happening, then fluid pressure
will build up and hard shift, (rather than a softer modulated electronic solenoid shift) will occur.
The TSS (transmission speed sensor on the transmission sends transmission output shaft rpm to the PCM which will control the
shift program points.
It could also be a sensor or a solenoid acting up and not generating a
code. I had a similar harsh shifting problem/high shift rpm until I
replaced the TSS. Transmission shifting returned to normal after
it was changed, and that was all that was done to my transmission.
The problem I've been having is when I drive off either first thing in the morning (or whenever the truck has been sitting for about 10 mins or longer) it seems the truck is sluggish driving down the street for a block or two and it makes it sound like the engine is "louder" then usual (compared to when I first got the truck) once I've driven for that amount of distance or so, the louder "engine" sound smooths out to a normal sound and all is good afterwards. This problem persists longer, the longer the truck has sat, or the temperature outside. I thought that maybe I needed the tranny filter changed, did that several months ago, then I decided to get the tranny flushed, and for the hell of it, changed the filter again. (200$)
The first time I had the filter changed I could notice a little bit of difference, it was still doing it, but not as bad, but it progressively got back to where it was again. Just had the tranny flushed and filter changed, but it has made no difference as far as I can tell. The guy who did the tranny flush looked at the fluid and didn't see anything in it showing any catastrophic problems but obviously I need to get the problem fixed, because I'm figuring (I'm no car guy if you haven't figured it out) that its not pumping my tranny fluid right or something and eventually I'm going to have a really really expensive problem. I've noticed other guys on the forums have had their computer's read, I haven't had this done, I have had a engine light on, but the last time I checked it was for a damn gas cap sensor (changed gas cap, still would come on), I guess I should have it checked again.
Any input would be appreciated guys, thanks.
distance is more than likely the thermostatic viscous clutched fan. It will
turn faster initially (when cold)and make more noise, until the viscous fluid decouples
the fan from the fan pulley and the fan starts to freewheel.
The only way you can tell if it's an actual transmission problem is watching
the RPM at the shift points (1->2) and (2->3) on the tach.
If the shift points (set by the PCM) appear to be within a normal range,
then more than likely the transmission is shifting gears. If the RPMs
shoot way up in 1st gear or 2nd gear, then you would have something
to be concerned about.
If that happens you would get hard shifts which are very noticible.
In those cases, it's either the TSS (tranmission speed sensor) or
possibly the TPS (throttle position sensor).
By "shift's into higher gears too soon"..I would presume that the PCM
electronic shifts are taking place, rather than higher pressure induced
"hard shifts" done at higher rpms.
There is a TPS throttle position sensor located on the LEFT (driver's)side of the throttle body.
It connects to the throttle shaft (butterfly valves) and feeds back
information to the PCM on what the throttle is doing at the time.
The second sensor associated with shifting gears, is the Governor pressor
sensor located on the transmission itself. This sensor tells the PCM (computer)
what the fluid pressure is in the valve body (the part of the transmission that
has the fluid activated shift valves to operate the clutches and bands for
the dual planetary gear set and the separate overdrive unit.
The third sensor is the TSS, which tells the PCM the rpm of the o/p shaft of
the transmission itself.
The shift program is learned by the PCM from your driving habits and feedback
from these sensors..which need to be checked out first before considering
an expensive transmission rebuild.
The "chatter" you are referring to..could be the engine "shuddering" because
of the higher gear loading on the engine is too much for the rpm and torque
of the engine at the time....or an actual internal clutch inside the Dodge
transmission chattering because it is slipping on it's friction plates..or
low fluid pressure being delivered by the transmission fluid pump.
There are test ports for determining transmission fluid pressure that a transmission shop can do (with the vehicle running on a hoist) to see
if it's fluid pressure, or worn clutches...or even a bad sensor.
Generally speaking, the transmission should shift from 1st gear to second
gear electronically around 2200 rpm..if everything, including the sensors
mentioned are working correctly.
Shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear is about the same or slightly lower rpm
(1800 to 2000 rpm)
Shifting from 3rd gear to the O/D (4th gear) is around 1800 and then once
in O/D,the engine rpm drops down to about 1500..if you are under 50mph.
The rpm will increase with speed.
I suppose I am not good at explaining. But here today it did it once again. I will try and explain todays actions. It is cludy and 40 degrees today. I left for lunch and got onto the highway and it accelerated to 45 MPH at 3700 rpm. When I released the gas pedal it downshifted and felt like "rear end" locked up. Once again as previously noted it might not have locked the rearend up but thats how it feels. Almost like a chevy drive shaftclanks when u-joints going out. That abript kind of feel. So I gave it the gas again so to not get run over from behind and the RPMs climbed up once again and would only go about 50 mph. It bucked and bronced on me and then the engine light came on. I took it by the Ford house, where I bought it used and the mechanic ran a generic test on it and it showed that the MAF/MAP sensor was faulty. He suggested I go by the Dodge house to have them run a diagnostic test on it. They quoted me(Dodge) 130.00 to test the problem. I did NOT get it done as for it is too close to the holidays and well 130.00 is alot. I stopped by the local Auto Parts store and they pulled a TPS sensor code. I went ahead and bought one since its only 20.00. Have yet to install it.When I got BACK in the truck and headed back to work I noticed the engine light was OFF and then the cruise button stopped working. This also happened last year around the wreck. SO in short I think it may have something to do with the transmission ie the case aluminum may be so cold that something is sticking in it until it reaches a warmer temp?? That is just a educated guess on my end. I DO like the info you gave me and I am sorry I did not explain well enough the last go round. See what this info throws your way.
3700 rpm is definitely too high for 45mph. It appears that the PCM is no
longer involved with shifting the gear ranges, and it's the hydraulic fluid pump
pressure building up, operating the shift valves in the transmission's
control valve body.
The rear end feeling like it is locking up is another indication of ABRUPT SHIFTING taking place..in this case, it could be down to 1st gear ... that is very hard on the transmission components!
The Ford house diagnostic is a red herring. The MAF/MAP sensor is used to
adjust the fuel/air ratio by the PCM and nothing to do with your transmission
erratic/abrupt shifting problem.
The Auto Parts pulling a TPS sensor code, MAY have something to do with it,
but I had a similar case not too long ago..hard shifts and it turned out
to be the TSS Transmission output shaft speed sensor ). It had a low o/p and
the PCM could not read it, so it decided not to bother shifting for me and
all the shifts were HARD shifts at high rpms where the Tach just climbed way
up there... before it finally shifted.
I bought a new TPS sensor, also thinking it was the cause of the problem. Unfortunately the on-line auto parts place sent me a BAD replacement sensor..so I had to put the original back on and tested it.
BTW you can test the TPS sensor still on the vehicle with a Digital voltmeter back probe the 3 wires on the sensor, ignition on but not started, and move the throttle by hand. A good TPS sensor will read 0.5v to +4.5v.... as these are 5 volt sensors.
In my case there was NOTHING WRONG with my OEM TPS sensor and it
is still on my truck shifting properly...my problem turned out to be the TSS
(located on the transmission itself) and eventually the sensor " finally died"
and I pulled a P-0720 code (Low output speed sensor at RPM above 15mph)
"Output shaft speed DETECTED is LESS THAN 60MPH with VEHICLE SPEED
MORE THAN 15MPH."
On the electronically shifted Dodge transmissions, the PCM does the
shifting at the correct "learned" rpm detected by your driving habits.
it uses the input from ALL these following sensors, to calculate and determine
the proper gear shift points:
1. gas pedal-throttle valve position (TPS)
2. TSS ( Transmission o/p shaft speed sensor) tells the PCM what gear the transmission is SUPPOSED TO BE IN ALREADY when in Drive)
3. VSS (vehicle speed sensor..located in the rear differential housing) the pulses
from this one are used to a)calculate your speed on the speedometer,
and b)tell the ABS controller (controller anti-lock rear wheel brakes or all wheel
antilock brakes) what is happening with the rpm on the rear differential gears
4. Transmission fluid pressure governor sensor (this sensor feeds back information to the PCM of what the instantaneous internal control shift valve
body's fluid pressure is..to determine the correct shift points as well.
5. Transmission temperature sensor (tells the PCM when the transmission is
warm enough to go into 4th gear (Overdrive) or when the transmission is
overheating..sets the Trans Temp indicator on the dash.
So as you can see there are several electronic sensors involved with shifting
the gears electronically/automatically for you on the Dodge 44RE transmission.
BTW (44 RE) 4= (4 WHEEL), 4= (transmission torque handling capability)
R=(rear wheel drive) E = (electronically shifted..by the PCM)
Not having a handheld OBDII code reader, you are at the mercy of the
"stealerships" to plug in and read off the code(s) for you... at $130 a pop!
If you want to keep the diagnostic costs down, you need the basic owner's
tools in your tool kit:
1. A Haynes or Chilton manual for your truck year ($30)
2. A cheap DVM (digital voltmeter) around $15-$25
3. A handheld OBD (on board diagnostics) code reader that will scan the
PCM and give you the P-codes (problem codes) when you plug it into
the diagnostic connector located under the steering column.
These are very easy to use, come with a manual explaining the codes
and cost under $60 now.
So for the price of that $130 dealer scan..you can equip yourself with some
very capable tools of your own..and learn how to diagnose your truck's
problems as time goes on.
AND..
"happened around the time of the wreck"
Do you mean this truck was involved in a serious accident last year?
Please provide more details on that.
park? When you move it into D..does it drop in rpm first and then stall..or
stall immediately as you move the gear shift? Have you tried moving it from
park to neutral..what does it do in neutral?
There are many reasons for it to stall..something in the transmission is telling
the PCM to operated the ASD (Automatic Shutdown Relay) or the extra
load on the engine (in the transmission may be causing it to stall
because the gear selection isn't right. )
Are there any check engine codes coming on when it happens?
I'll be calling a few transmission people and see what they have to say.
Using that convention, does that mean that the transmission DOES NOT SLIP
on right turns or when travelling straight?
It doesn't make a lot of sense, since the engine is driving the torque convertor
inside the transmission wheter you go straight or make turns.
On a turn the power steering pump works harder to operate the steering box
and the steering linkage to turn the wheels, but that shouldn't really have
any effect on transmission operation...unless the g-forces in a left turn act on the fluid levels inside the valve body in the transmission in one direction and not the other..