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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Fuel Pump/Fuel System

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Comments

  • jpmoorejpmoore Member Posts: 2
    Yesterday out of the blue all of a sudden my truck started bogging down, and the fuel gage went from half a tank down to E so I turned around and pulled into the gas station put 20 bucks in and started out of town again....well it didn't stop it kept bogging down especially when I would go to take off....then it took forever to get home, cause I had to go really really slow to get up a hill and had to roll back down one cause it just wasn't going. I checked the fuel filter and it seems fine. Do you have any ideas??? There was no warning it just started bogging down when I accelerate. I'm going to check it out again here in a sec, any ideas would be greatly appreciated.....Thanks! it acts like its not getting enough gas or something.
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    Make sure your fuel pressure is with in specs. Running a vehicle low or out of gas over heats the electric pump and will sometimes cause it not put out enough fuel pressur. Curious that you had a fuel guage issue prior to this. I think that the fuel pump and sending unit are one assembly on the year.
  • jpmoorejpmoore Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, we went and got a fuel pressure gage, and we are going to check it now. If the pressure isn't accurate shoule we replace the fuel pump? Thanks again for your reply.
  • ozarkguy47ozarkguy47 Member Posts: 1
    Strange problem. Noticed during warm weather fuel pump would not come one unless i reached under and "jiggled" the connection. then fine. I checked it yesterday and it is getting really Hot at the connector as the truck runs. I cleaned the connection and checked that the ground is still good. Fuel guage works fine. During winter I have less or no problems with this. Right now if you start and run for 10 minutes, the connector and grey wire (power) are very hot to the touch. The diagram shows a capacitor in the pump, what are chances it is bad and discharging all the time? After running for awhile and shutting down, I will have to "jiggle" connection again to restart. Trying to avoid new pump if possible. Thanks guys.
  • quimbyquimby Member Posts: 2
    I now have identical problem with my 2000 Sierra 4X4. Dealer is estimating $650 to replace hub, etc. Too bad, as only have 70K miles and bearings are fine. Others are telling me to clean the sensor, once I have access to it. I am most interested in the recall issue. I have never received recall notice on this issue. Did you learn more about a recall? What was your resolution of the abs problem. Thanks
  • mhwebmhweb Member Posts: 1
    The recall I believe was limited to vehicles in the northern states (salted roads). Chevrolet did not send out notices to every owner, regardless of what state you lived in. I took my 2002 Siverado in maybe two years ago for this and had to argue with the service manager on if this year was covered. It appeared that if you cleaned the ring and coated it with lacquer and adjusted the sensor you might get by if the sensor was not tore up. I was told the rust build up was the problem.
  • quimbyquimby Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for input. Yes, my vehicle is in Maine, road salt capital of U.S. Learned dealer did serviced abs 3 years ago in accordance with a GM bulletin that they did not tell me about. Basically, it seems they remove it, clean it and reinstall. I did the same the other day myself. No rust, no apparent dirt, with a lubricant on ring and sensor. But, problem at slow speeds persists, although it is always intermittent. Looks like I must replace entire hub - too bad as seems the bearings are fine. Basic design flaw in my opinion.
  • cooey5cooey5 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2003 Silverado 1500 ext cab...ran fine one morning going to town, but on the return trip wife said it started sputtering and bogging down. It finally died on the highway after about 15 miles. I went out there and changed the fuel filter but would not start. could not hear the fuel pump run. towed the vehicle home and the next morning tried to start it and the fuel pump would come on and the truck would start and run for about 15 seconds or until I hit the foot feed. Any ideas?
  • cooey5cooey5 Member Posts: 3
    After trying to start it a few times now the fuel pump will not come on at all. I'm not much on these newer models.
  • bailey18bailey18 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 2003 Silverado 1500hd (My Bubba :blush: ). I used to get 15mpg city 17-18+ hwy. In the last 6 months my mpg has dropped to7-8 city, 9-11hwy. I have had my regular tune up, also fuel system tune up, oil change regularly, front end ailgnement and tires balanced an rotated. I have no problem with starting issues, no gas smell, little sluggish but it was when purchased(used). Dealership said O2 senser is fine and so is cat. converter. Is there something they are missing? I love my Bubba but don't want dealership to nickel and dime me to death trying to find a solution. It has also started to shake at around 72mph. Any input would help and thanks.
  • cooey5cooey5 Member Posts: 3
    Well, I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump and its running like a dream now. I found it a whole lot easier to take the bed off.
  • hgivens1hgivens1 Member Posts: 3
    Ive never experienced the wiring harness of the pump getting hot but ive heard of it happening before. I have a 1998 chevrolet z71 and im in the same boat as far as not wanting to buy another pump, mine quit all of sudden in the front yard. Do you know of any inline fuse boxes or anything up until the fuse box underneath the hood because there is a fuel pump relay but the relay is fine. Any suggestions?
  • hgivens1hgivens1 Member Posts: 3
    Yeah man I had the same problem with my 99 z71. Its your gas tank sending unit going bad.
  • chevyfan1969chevyfan1969 Member Posts: 3
    Probably needs a pump. Classic symptoms of a dying fuel pump. You need to have the pressure checked, it needs about 60 psi to run. There's no cheap way to fix it that I know of.
  • htd1964htd1964 Member Posts: 1
    I'm not getting any fuel from my injectors. I have fuel going to the throttle body. What are some things I can check to locate the problem. I changed a sensor on the TBI. I'm not sure what it called but Its a four wire connector located on the passanger side of the TB. I was told it controled the idle speed. The truck ran fine after I replace the sensor. the next day I went to start the truck and was not getting fuel. The control module was check the day before.
  • stryder05stryder05 Member Posts: 10
    I'm about to shoot it, I have a 93 Silvarado 5.7l 4x4 5 speed manual. I just started giveing me trouble. Only when it gets to operation temp, the RPMs start going eratic and it jerks like mad. It starts just fine and runs great until then. I replaced the plugs, wires, cap & rotor, checked the fuel pump, etc. I get codes 22 (TPS) & 34 (MAPS), however, we had a 1988 S-10 pickup, 4x4, 4.3l that did the exact same thing. I replaced EVERY thing on that truck including the motor and 2 computers and $1593 in shop fees only to have to get rid of it because no one could find the issue. I don't want to chase a ghost again, I'm hoping this is something simple that would be overlooked, does anyone have an idea before I turn it into a ghost?

    Thanks
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Did you try:
    1- Resetting the codes
    2- Disconnect battery (reset codes)
    3- Clean or replace TPS and MAP
  • stryder05stryder05 Member Posts: 10
    I did pull the battery cables off, cleaned them and the battery, I checked the TPS and MAP sensor and they appear to be within the normal volts. I have a few new checks to make tonight, but I found no rescrictions, fuel or vaccum leaks YET. Any additional checks, even the stupid ones I may have missed would be a great help. Thanks for asking.
  • stryder05stryder05 Member Posts: 10
    OK, I reset the codes again, I checked the IAC sensor, it checked fine, I replaced the MAP snesor and the TPS. It starts fine but when it reaches Operating Temp and I try to give it gas, the RPMs go crazy and it runs like it's missing our not getting fuel. I found no vaccume leaks and now I'm at a loss. ANYTHING I'm missing?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Have you checked:

    -throttle body
    -egr valve
  • stryder05stryder05 Member Posts: 10
    Yes, I just rechecked them last night, the EGR is fine, the Throttle body seems to be fine. I get fuel but I can't check the pressure, it seems to be flowing normal. What ever happend, heppend all of a sudden. There was no warning, it just started on my way home and I can't find the problem in any wires, vaccume lines, fuses or sensore (that I have checked). It seems to me that it has to be something simple but I'm missing it. Thanks for the help
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    It seems that the problem starts when it moves from closed to open loop
  • stryder05stryder05 Member Posts: 10
    That would make a great deal of sence, only I can't figure out what circuit would be causing the problem. If the TPS was bad or somehow shorting out when it got hot, would that cause the MAP sensor to throw a code as well? What would cause them both to throw codes if they were not bad? That's what I'm trying to tract with no luck yet. I can't even get it to the shop without a $200 tow fee. Maybe we'll figure it out and writte a book.

    Thanks again
  • stryder05stryder05 Member Posts: 10
    Ok, I started the truck, let it heat up and checked every sensor again, eveything is checking within normal specs. I started to pull on sensor at a time and start the truck, reset the codes each time and now it's giving me code 15 (CTS) and again code 34 (MAPS). I just replaced the MAPS. Aside from pushing it off a cliff, is there anything that could cause a closed (or open) loop and throw all these different codes? It's getting scoped this week I hope, if they find the answer, I'll most deffinately keep it posted. Thanks for helping, I can atleast let them know what has been checked.
  • banshee409banshee409 Member Posts: 4
    Where is my fuel filter located? I have looked under the truck but I don't see it. My 1998 had one place up in the frame area. Is the 2004 hidden inside something?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    You replaced the MAPS but did you replace the TPS?

    Hope its not an electrical gremlin which has been known to cause owners to push their trucks over a cliff.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Should be on the inside of the driver side frame rail.
  • stryder05stryder05 Member Posts: 10
    I have not replaced the TPS yet, it seemed to be just fine and I'm not getting the code (22) any longer. This is the same issue I had with our S-10 4.3L, I replaced everything in the truck including the motor and 2 computers. The truck was basically brand new when I finally sold it because the shop could not find the problem after $1500 in charges. I think this time i'll take my time and find the answer. I don't thing the shop let it warm up long enough to see exactly what was happening. I'm getting it scoped this week or weekend I hope. I'll keep you posted on what the outcome is, just in case anyone else has this issue. Thanks again
  • stryder05stryder05 Member Posts: 10
    Ignition Module....... Tested fine but I replaced it with a spare and guess what? Running fine. I never received a code and it never showed up on the scope as bad. Keep that in mind and pass it on.

    Thanks for the help Obyone. Elimination worked.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    You keep a spare ignition module lying around? Wow.

    Glad it worked out for you. I must admit it was an interesting problem.
  • stryder05stryder05 Member Posts: 10
    Yes I did have a spare, and a spare MAP sensor, they are the same parts as our S-10 was that had the same problem, however, I didn't get to replace them in the S-10 since the shop said they did and it still didn't run. The funny thing is, it tested out just fine, even when it heated up, if you don't test it long enough it doesn't show any errors. Quit the nasty little gremlin. But yesterday the truck ran great, no problems at all for over 2 hours. Thanks again for helping track this down. It would make sense why the shop didn't find the issue if it never heated up enough. I now have a different shop.
  • mrandolphmrandolph Member Posts: 1
    i have a 02 chevy silverado with a 5.3v8 and my fuel pump is going bad i know its the fuel pump because the mechanic that look at it hit the gas tank with a hammer and it started right up.what is the easiest way to replace it myself?
  • laz38laz38 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 00 chevy silverado 5.3 v8 with 180k miles. It stalled once when i was driving, the engine just shut off when i was going 60mph. I figured it was vaporlock when the truck started up 2 days later and drove fine for 4 months till yesterday when the same exact thing happened. I first assumed it was the fuel pump and now am thinking thats what it is again. The truck can start barely sometimes and sputters pretty bad then just dies out after 30 or so seconds. Does anyone know what my problem might be?
  • leelee10leelee10 Member Posts: 1
    Where is the fuel filter located on a 2008 GMC1500 Xtended cab ?
  • dock4me1dock4me1 Member Posts: 1
    last winter my service engine light came on. code said lean fuel mixture put new fuel filter on did not fix when summer came light quit coming on. now since it has gotten cold again service engine light on again lean fuel mixture. 112,000 miles 4.8 v8 runs great just light comes on.
  • seafarmerseafarmer Member Posts: 16
    Check your ground wire to the fuel pump. My son's had a slightly corroded connection and it had the same symptoms. We sntripped the wire slightly and made a new connection and it runs like new.
  • seafarmerseafarmer Member Posts: 16
    Everything I found on this problem for the Chevy Avalanche 1500 relates to the purge value (solenoid) in the fuel system. As I understand, it is a pressure release valve for vapors created from temperature changes. What you're describing is a large temperature change from ambient air temperature to running temperature in the winter. Your dealer or shop can run a smoke test to determine but it runs about $100.

    Without prompting with my thoughts, my ASE certified mechanic buddy suggested the same thing when I gave him the symptoms. I have yet to change it and noticed my fuel mileage decrease just slightly but it runs good.
  • kloewenkloewen Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem. It will start, sputter for 10-20 seconds and then die and not re-start. Any suggestions?
  • bruce48532bruce48532 Member Posts: 64
    Check the fuel pressure regulator, located on top of the engine drivers side mid engine, its about the size of a gulf ball (not the same shape) pull the vacuum hose from it if there is fuel in the vacuum line replace it. As I recall it was $20 plus from the dealer.
  • ttonyh41ttonyh41 Member Posts: 1
    Greetings,

    I have the same truck and I just started experiencing pretty much everything you have described except for the noise in the fuel tank. Did you ever get the starting problem resolved and if so what did you do to fix it?

    Thanks much
  • powdercoater3powdercoater3 Member Posts: 3
    new to the group have a 2007 sierra , seems the top speed is 89 mph. doesn't run rough , shift normal,runs somth. just won't go any faster than 89 mph . there is no check engine light . factory equipment 32000 miles dealer take well that all we can do why do you need to go that fast????? ever been on south fl 95 before
  • stryder05stryder05 Member Posts: 10
    The issues I had with the 93 1500 were a bit difficult to track down. It's been said that this can't happen, but it did. My coil was arcing outside, I had scorch marks on the outside of the case, as well, when the motor was at temp, the ignition module would heat up and cut out. We tested it three time before I checked it hot (not fun by the way). I replaced both of these and have not had any additional problems. I don't know if this will help, but it's something that gets overlooked quit a bit. Hope this helps.
  • woltwolt Member Posts: 2
    Had engine light on. Originally had 2 codes.(P0300 & P0171) After research, I saw it could be numerous problems to kick those codes. I monitored the indicators and deduced H20 in gas took out the O2 sensor so I changed the O2 sensor yesterday and reset code. The light came back on and I am now hearing a clicking or sputtering sound coming from the rear of the truck. It coincides with the gas petal, as I accelerate it sputters/clicks if I let off the petal it stops. Possibly from the gas tank or exhuast. I suggest it is the fuel filter or the fuel pump. Any suggestions?
  • woltwolt Member Posts: 2
  • flems2flems2 Member Posts: 1
    new guy! my brother in law has 04 with 5.3 . other nite shut truck off fuel pump stayed on-killed battery.next day put charger on,key off,pump came on right away??? checked relays,fuses,all ok . pump noisy but ran fine. any ideas? live in ontario,cold these days!
  • lugnut72lugnut72 Member Posts: 2
    I am looking for some information concerning the PCM circuit on a 2003 chevy silverado 4.3L 4X4. I have blown the PCM fuse twice. Both times have occurred when I have a low fuel condition. Is this related to the fuel pump? Any help on this would be appreciated.
  • bruce48532bruce48532 Member Posts: 64
    if have over 30k i would replace the $9.95 fuel filter, specificaly I can't say if this is the problem but i can say from personel experience it is far less then a $300 (part cost) plus fuel pump
  • jody9jody9 Member Posts: 1
    i replaced fuel pump on my 98 chevy silverado 5.0 engine, vortech. My problem is when I try to start truck gas from fuel injectors will not click and pass the gas into carburator. ANYBODY GOT A SOLUTION FOR ME APPRECIATE ANY ADVICE.
  • bruce48532bruce48532 Member Posts: 64
    did you also replace the fuel filter?
  • bruce48532bruce48532 Member Posts: 64
    did you also replace the fuel filter ?
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