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Volkswagen Rabbit

1810121314

Comments

  • denverdavodenverdavo Member Posts: 38
    Hey! Can we talk about rattles? I'm not talking really annoying ones yet with 1200 miles, but just some minor little ones. Because I'm not so crazy about the stereo sound, I find that at times I turn it off so I get to listen to the nice hum of that 5 cylinder engine. I love the sound of it! But, there is a minor rattle coming from the center dash. It does not seem to be that air diffuser at the top like some have mentioned before. And, the passenger door pillar has a bit of a sound too. Neither are very annoying except on a rough road surface. I'm wondering if I should wait a while to see if these settle out or I get used to them? I also worry about the dealer making things worse by opening up the dash, etc. What would you do? Any experience with specific rattles that were removed successfully? Frankly, the Camry had more rattles, and one that the dealer never got out. I heard horror stories about VW, but overall, this is not the end of the world! Thanks for your help...
  • jbaustianjbaustian Member Posts: 78
    I know with the older Mk4 models, some folks replaced the OE antennae with a shorter one (for looks only), and didn't like the poorer radio reception.

    85 octane is common in high-altitude states. Higher octane prevents pre-ignition... apparently at higher altitudes it doesn't require a high octane number. Run a few tanks of the 85 octane, so you get a good feel for the performance, then try some 87 and see if you notice a difference.

    Some VWs have rattles, some don't. Your Rabbit is new, so it's up to your dealer to fix the rattle. Get it fixed.
  • eldainoeldaino Member Posts: 1,618
    Hey den! good to hear from ya!

    with regards to the gas, i would start putting in 87, thats the minumum octane grade here in nc, and if thats what the car asks for, do it. (i know premium is better for turbos/superchargers, but that here is 92 grade octane. While it may be techincally midgrade over where you are at, it looks like you'll have to start doing it!)

    The stumpy 'sharkfin' antenna is just an acessory (unless the rabbits you are looking at have sat radio?), and it does result in poorer reception, but does look better.

    24mpg seems a bit low...my wife and i drive about 80 % highway and average 28. But i cant recall what i used to get when my bunny was relatively new, but i think the reason you see that is because of the fuel you are using. Try what vw reccomends and i think you'll notice a bump!

    I don't mind the stock stereo at all, but aftermarket seems to be the way to go...the only thing is you'll need a dash kit since the bunnies stereo is oversized, and its a bit extra.
  • eldainoeldaino Member Posts: 1,618
    first thing, i think its important to understand any car regardless of age can have a rattle or two.

    The center of the dash when pushed makes a few crackly noises and sometimes the air from the ac aids in this sound. (i'm always blasting the stereo so its not a big deal.)

    The passenger door pillar could be something in the bin on the door, many a time did i think my rabbit had a rattle only to discover something that i left in there.

    there is a common rattle on the passengers side seemingly coming from the gas cap...it sounds like a light tapping noise, like if something is stuck in your hatch and is politely trying to get out. There is a fix for this, but you'll have to look it up or run a search for it on vwvortex, because its been said that unless you bring a description of the fix to the dealer, they won't locate it and it will continue to do it. (i confirmed this, i didn't get a chance to print it out and they couldn't locate the sound. But its not the end of the world like you said, its no harm for your bunny.)
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I'd ask your dealer about octane requirement. Because this says:

    The higher the altitude above sea level, the lower the octane requirement.

    24 mpg seems reasonable given your 25/75 hwy/city mix. "City" can vary a lot, as one person's city may be stop and go traffic jams on a regular basis, while another's may be a pretty steady 25 mpy with a stop light about every mile.
  • bakedzitibakedziti Member Posts: 4
    My center dash rattles were all related to the useless air diffuser. I replaced it with the tray found on the European golfs:
    http://oempl.us/product_info.php?cPath=23_29&products_id=256&osCsid=785b84babdd5- 3dccc74a79ee603e6649

    No more rattles, that thing always creaked around and I found it to be useless. If I want air blowing from the front, I would just switch to the defroster vents.

    As far as the passenger side door. I fixed this rattle myself. I removed the door panel and my issue was caused by a wire harness not secured by those plastic plugs that snap into the pre-drilled holes in the metal....snapped it in and secured the rest with tape to the door panel...and done!

    Rock solid ride!
  • denverdavodenverdavo Member Posts: 38
    Thanks for the input, guys...
    I'll check with the dealer about the gas and see what the performance differences are. That 24 MPG was only 25% hwy, Eldaino...so that might not be so bad. I'm driving about 325 miles/tank and have a whopping 1 gallon left to empty. When the Germans say the light comes on at 1.8 gallons, they mean it!

    Monsoon...that's what they called the stereo booster option sold by VW on my 99 Passat. Anything like it today? I don't like aftermarket stuff and I will stick with the stock stereo regardless of what I think of the sound. It's funny, I listened to the 2 door bunny stereo, and although it didn't have the 6 CD changer and some other bells, I'm convinced that the sound was better Eldaino. I'm thinking of having the dealer run a test to make sure all the speakers are fine and working properly and I'll ask if there is such a thing as a "monsoon" option.

    I used to really like drama in my life, but this car is just not causing any significant problems! My reply to the JD Powers questionaire will boost this car's ratings, I'm sure!

    There is one thing, Eldaino that I realize I really like about your 2 door. At 6'4", I have to dump myself in behind the pillar and drag myself out around it everytime I get in and out of the car. Now, at my age I can still do this with no problem. A Chiropractor might frown at this repeated action...and laugh at the same time all the way to the bank. But, this is one of those things I didn't really think about til I had the car a while. I love my heated seats and sunroof, but the older I get the more that comfort will always come first.

    Is that enough rambling for one session? Let me know your thoughts...and thanks again. David
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I thought VW still called their upgraded stereo system "monsoon".

    I have to dump myself in behind the pillar and drag myself out around it everytime I get in and out of the car.

    That is an interesting comment...never thought that, for a very tall person, a 2-door might be easier to get in and out of due to the longer doors. Not something that would be an issue for me as I am of pretty average height.

    I recently had a 2-door Cobalt as a loaner and all I noticed (besides what a crappy car it is) is how long and heavy the doors are. I think the last 2-door I was in was a late 60s Impala I owned about 25 years ago.
  • eldainoeldaino Member Posts: 1,618
    yeah the two doors have huge heavy doors, i remember sitting in a 4 door gti the other day and loving the short, lightness of the door.

    The monsoon was just a name for the upgraded stereo in older vw's...its not a product being offered anymore, and its funny that you should say you like that system more, the general consensus is that most people prefer the newer system.

    It has a ton of speakers, but the head unit and speakers themselves are not that powerful. The answer=ballin' aftermarket speakers.

    i still think you should be putting 87 octane, regardless of what your altitude is...i'm glad that the bunny has not given you any headaches, mine really has not either (well except for the ridiculous service quotes!), but i try to do what vw says.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    Lower octane at altitude... That's normal..

    In Colorado, 85 is regular grade.. just like 87 is here (in the normal part of the world.. ;) )

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  • inajoonginajoong Member Posts: 46
    does anyone know about a deasel rabbit coming to the states in 08?

    also, do they offer 2 tone interiors for the rabbit?
  • jbaustianjbaustian Member Posts: 78
    Best information right now is the Rabbit TDI should be for sale in about 10-12 months. Also, if the information is right, the new 2.0-liter TDI engine should be fantastic. More power than the ones available through 2006, but significantly better fuel economy too! Prius and other hybrid owners will be bummed out.

    I'm planning to wait for a 2010 model -- I need to put another 180k miles or so on my 2003 Golf TDI. Only have 218k miles right now.
  • denverdavodenverdavo Member Posts: 38
    After griping a bit about the stereo in the 4 door '07 Bunny, I must say that the CDs sound quite good. So, perhaps this is an FM stereo or reception issue as far as the poorer quality of sound when I listen to FM? Just curious...

    Also, did I see a post somewhere about a leak from the rear window washer? I don't use it at all, but notice a drip line just below the pivot point of the rear wiper that runs down to the W hatch. I wipe it off the dried up drip line and magically it reappears. Any thoughts?

    Also, does higher octane mean better fuel economy? Is it worth the difference in price? Just wondered if anybody noticed a difference.

    Shim is running great! Much more powerful than that Camry, it seems...

    Thanks! David
  • jbaustianjbaustian Member Posts: 78
    RE: rear window washers. New VWs from the factory have for many years had a problem with them. Washer fluid dries out and clogs or partially clogs the nozzle. The plastic cover in the center pops off/out, and you can clean that nozzle with a straight pin.
  • eldainoeldaino Member Posts: 1,618
    my washer nozzle is fine; i use it alot, but i think too much fluid gets shot out, and it dries out quickly.

    I put premium in my car one time, and averaged almost 2mpg better, but i think it was becasue i drove more highway than usual and was inadvertently taking it easy on the gas pedal. (i think there is somewhere in the rabbits manual that insinuates that premium is kinda reccomended? Mabye its a german thing! :blush: )

    i have never liked the fm reception on our rabbit...but my wife doesn't mind, and i don't listen to the radio.
  • inajoonginajoong Member Posts: 46
    Do you happen to know the estimated starting price of the new TDI?

    i was planning on buying the 5 cylinder one this year, but if the price is right i can wait another year.
  • eldainoeldaino Member Posts: 1,618
    i suppose it will command a premium, much like the jetta tdi does over the 5 cyl jetta.

    I hope its not TOO big of a premium though...some diesel jettas used to near 30k, but they were also usually decked out with leather and every option imaginable.

    I would assume that leather would be an option for the rabbit tdi...but if you were to leave it off, i guess a starting price of around 17k seems reasonable, though i don't think it will be hard to get to 22-23k (gti territory.) Granted you are gettting great fuel economy, and an engine that is just as peppy, but losses top end.(if it has a 5k redline, it would be impressive.)
  • denverdavodenverdavo Member Posts: 38
    Thanks, Eldaino...
    BTW, my email is denverdk@comcast.net if you want to communicate directly with me.

    I have 1/4 tank left and I've only driven 235 miles. I drive like a little old lady it seems but have run the air a fair amount lately. And, I put in 85 octane...I know...now so good perhaps. But the dealer told me it would be fine...I'll check again with someone else. At this elevation, I don't get any pinging at that octane and the car runs great. Also, our gas ALWAYS has 10% Ethanol...not good for the mileage.

    If I were patient, I might have waited for the Diesel bunny. But, I would also predict it will be up to $4K more based on what the premium was for a TDI Jetta. So at how many miles would one pay that off in gas? My brain is fried for the day to figure that one out!
    David
  • jbaustianjbaustian Member Posts: 78
    Up until 2005-2006 or thereabouts, the TDI engine added about $1200 to the list price versus the old 2.0-liter base engine.

    The emissions system in the next TDI engine will be a little more complicated, but I have no idea if it will raise the cost of manufacture or how much. Also, the 2.5-liter 5-cylinder will get a horsepower upgrade too.

    Though the Mercedes E320 is a $50k car, the CDI (diesel) option only adds about $1000 to the list price.

    I can't advise people about whether they should buy now or wait until later. The current Rabbit is a lot of car for the money, but it's not especially fuel-efficient. I guess it depends on how many miles a year you drive. If only 10k-12k miles annually, then the TDI engine won't save you enough fuel to make it worthwhile. OTOH, if you drive 25k-50k miles a year, then you shouldn't wait until 2008 to buy a TDI... get one of the remaining new 2006 Jettas or a used Golf or New Beetle TDI.
  • denverdavodenverdavo Member Posts: 38
    How many MPG will a TDI diesel get for combined city/hwy driving? 35? More? I just figured if you drive 12,000 per year and you got 35 mpg on a diesel vs. 23 mpg which I'm averaging, I would save about $572 per year if the gas was the same price at $3.20/gallon. I know diesel is a bit higher now. But anyway, if what you say..only $1K more for a diesel, then in 2 years it would pay for itself and so if I keep the car at least that long, it would be worth it for sure. Why were the Jetta diesels SO much more? I'm sure much more than $1K difference...in fact, I know it was around $4K. But, I know that is a different diesel too than the new, cleaner burning engines coming.
  • jbaustianjbaustian Member Posts: 78
    Q: How many MPG will a TDI diesel get for combined city/hwy driving? 35? More?

    I average a little over 40 mpg in my 2003 Golf TDI 5-speed. The new DSG tranny is about the same as the 5M for fuel economy. Anyone who says they get 50 mpg in a TDI isn't telling everything about how he drives -- it can be done but 95% of drivers would have a hard time doing it.

    Q: I just figured if you drive 12,000 per year and you got 35 mpg on a diesel vs. 23 mpg which I'm averaging, I would save about $572 per year if the gas was the same price at $3.20/gallon.

    The higher fuel prices go, the quicker the pay-back from switching to a TDI. But that would also apply to any other high-MPG car. I generally argue that if you don't drive very much, then any medium- or high-MPG gas-engine car will make sense for you. If you drive a lot, then the TDI makes excellent sense.

    Q: Why were the Jetta diesels SO much more? I'm sure much more than $1K difference...in fact, I know it was around $4K.

    I think the Mk5 Jettas started out in 2005 with about a $1000-1200 premium for the TDI. Then VWoA introduced a cheaper model with the 2.5, but not with the TDI. The TDIs didn't get more expensive, it's just that the "base" Jetta lost some features and got cheaper. (But still a very nice car for the money.) Plus there were sometimes special offers on the 2.5's, but not on the TDIs.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    If you get 23 with the 2.5, expecting 35 from the diesel would seem reasonable. The EPA rating on the 2.5 is 22 city and on the diesel Jetta it is 35 city. Since you get right around the city rating on the 2.5, you would probably do the same in a diesel.

    Diesel prices vary, around here it is a LOT lower right now. Regular is about $3.40 and diesel is about $2.90.
  • eldainoeldaino Member Posts: 1,618
    check fueleconomy.gov and look up the tdi jetta, it'll give you a good idea what to expect in the real world. ( i figure the tdi bunny would weigh less too, but it didn't seem to affect the mileage for the 2.5 versions of both cars.)

    i don't think it was so much the lowering on the price of the jetta; almost 30k for a tdi is almost 30k for a tdi regardless of how cheap the 2.5 is. Granted, most of the tdi's i've seen where totally decked out, leather, satellite radio, the works. This may have had something to do with it.

    thanks jb for the info on diesels and driving a lot, for someone who has 19k on their rabbit since the beggining of october, its nice to know that there could be a potential model that would suit my needs and at least have something counteracting high maintanence costs...ofcourse the new diesels exhaust system could present some new issues. :sick:
  • denverdavodenverdavo Member Posts: 38
    So, what is wrong with the exhaust system on a TDI?

    I have now read my manual! Two things don't jive...

    1. The manual says that in the display right next to the
    drive selector info, it should also display what gear the auto is in. There is no number displayed there however.

    2. The manual says that the ESP should be ON all the time.
    It is not, and when I turn it on, it goes off after I shut the car off so I have to turn it on every time I start it up.

    Any experience with these two things? I'll have the dealer check the next time I go in.

    Also, I did have the dealer try to change the programing of the auto-locking feature so that all doors open when the key is removed. They tried but were dumbfounded and admitted that they just didn't know how to program it on this new Rabbit. I really think they just ran out of time and got frustrated. That was the dealer outside of the city, so I'll be taking it to the smarter dealers (hopefully) in the city from here on out.

    Are we heading to $4 gas? I get about 300 miles per tank. I guess that's not so bad and I don't have to drive lots if I don't want to. But it is fun to drive this car!
  • jbaustianjbaustian Member Posts: 78
    ESP is on all the time. Don't press the ESP button, that turns it OFF. Then, apparently, it comes back automatically after a restart.
  • denverdavodenverdavo Member Posts: 38
    Oh...so, when I push the button and see the squiggly lines on the dash then I've turned the ESP OFF? I guess that makes sense...I thought I would see something on the dash indicating that it was operating, but it's the other way around. Any ideas on my other question about the drive indicator on the dash? Thanks, Jbastian...
  • eldainoeldaino Member Posts: 1,618
    hey den! hope you had a good weekend.

    the esp is similar to the asr on the two door that i have; the squiggly lines indicate that you are more likely to...well...drive squiggly becasue its off. The button should have an OFF that lights up when it is off. When you turn it off you will see what you saw on the dash, when its on, you'll see nothing. Kinda backwards but you get my drift.

    I read the part of the manual where is says the auto tranny should indicate what gear your in; it does, read it again, its only when you are in tiptronic mode, and rowing your own gears; it wont display the gears your in when you are in normal auto mode or in sport mode.

    With regards to the auto locking feature your only hope seems like vag-com. Vag-com is computer interface that you can buy (well its actually more like an access program) for german cars, vw/audi in particular. Its a diagnostic tool that you can use to check to make sure everything is running ok. You can also edit parameters such as the beep that your car makes when you arm it(changing it from the wimpy beep to the american honk.), disabiling daytime running lights, and overriding your bunnies need to continually let you know that you are not wearing your seat belt. I would imagine that you can program your car to do what you want using this program. GO to vw.vortex and check out the forums...lots of info on it!
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    We had no problems getting locks programmed by dealer, but another option is the VAG-Com mentioned above.

    You may find someone who will help you out with that on this list:

    http://www.steve-hall.com/cgi-bin/VAG-Locator.pl
  • denverdavodenverdavo Member Posts: 38
    Hi Eldaino...

    Thanks for the info on the ESP...

    If you look at page 81 of the Controls & Equip. manual, Fig. 76 indicates that I should see the current drive gear even outside of Tiptronic mode. I get what is shown in Fig 77 while in Tip., but not the current drive gear. Maybe this is a feature than can be activated by a reprogramming via VAG?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    My wife says her Jetta (2005.5) always shows what gear it is in, I'm sure this would be the same for the Rabbit.
  • aladdinsanealaddinsane Member Posts: 182
    Hello all...

    I really like VW, the autos they build. In particular I refer to the new Rabbit/GTI/and the New Beetle...My questions are has the VW dealer experience been a good one for y'all? I've heard of horror stories concerning how badly owners can be treated by both dealers and dealer repair shops in general. I'd sure like to know, from a wide spectrum of you (if possible) whether this is fairly true or just a myth, so to speak.

    Plus I'd like to know from owners whether the machines themselves have been reliable/dependable?

    I find that VW incorporates features, as standard, that I find lacking in other vehicles in this class including ESP/traction and a host of other items which brands like Toyota/Nissan/Honda/Mitsubishi are sorely lacking in certain models...at least for now.

    Please share of your experiences. I'd really appreciate being informed by owners "in the know"...

    Many thanx-

    Peace! :shades:
  • eldainoeldaino Member Posts: 1,618
    aladdinsane:

    my dealer experniences have always been pleasant, the first one was great. Its just that servicing my bunny is entirely too expensive; my 20k serivce has been quoted at 250 bucks, from various dealers, as i don't live close to any of them. I'll be chaning the oil myself this time around, but eventually, my car will need to be taken for some dealer maintanence, as i've heard that unlike japanese cars, german cars and vw's in particular are more needy, and need to be serviced in such a manner. While i love my car for a lot of reasons, not feeling totally sure that my garage services are cutting it will always be there; if taking it to the dealer was more affordable, i would feel fine.

    The quality of the rabbits interior, while not as exciting as some other cars in its class, is top notch with regards to materials and build quality. Only time will tell about long term reliabilty, but my car has had only minor issues; an alarm light that stays on for no reason every so often, and windshield wipers that needed adjusting at 5k, but other than that, nothing at all. Granted i may not keep the rabbit long enough to comment on long term reliability, but according to some stories and given my current mileage, i should technically be already experiencing some pretty bad stuff. (i'm at over 19k.)

    despite these downsides, the rabbit does have some class exceeding features, like you mentioned, such as the asr, six speed auto w/tip tronic etc. But like i mentioned earlier, these things come at a price, and the gas mileage, while not horrible for the weight of the car and size of the engine, is not as grat as similiarly priced vehicles.

    I love my bunny, but in the long run i think that i will be wearing a different car down to its last oil drop.

    If you don't plan on keeping it for over 3 or four years, i think its a good buy, it really does just depend on your priorites; i'm a fuel economy buff, but since this my families only car, we were still techincally saving money over having even two realatively fuel efficent vehicles. i had a new civic, and we were going to get another one, but the dealers had no lx's in stock that had the colors we wanted and all the ex's were decked tot the rims with options; stopping by the vw dealer as an afterthought and seeing a united gray 2 door automatic with alloys and auto for a humble 17k was nice and we took the risk.

    I've def enjoyed my time in the rabbit, and continue to enjoy it, but like i said, it depends on what your needs are. My wife has become a bit of a fuel buff too, whereas before seeing that 30mpg highway was good enough for her. We realize the need for a hatch now too, and if we opt for honda again, we'll have to train the pup to sit in the back, since he wont have the backs of the seats blocking his way. (so its either training, or just buying a fit! ;) )

    if you want a car that counteracts is so so fuel economy and service requirements with a cheap to buy price and the most sure footed ride this side of an suv with a great interior, then this is the car for you.

    DENVER: i'll check my cars manual and post accordingly, i have the car today, so its right outside my work. ;)
  • jbaustianjbaustian Member Posts: 78
    The cost for routine maintenance at most VW dealerships is pretty high. The good news is that most maintenance procedures are very simple to perform by most owners with just a few basic tools. The oil filter, air filter, and cabin air filter are all conveniently located. And motor oil meeting the VW502.00 rating is pretty easy to find at most parts stores.

    The VW warranty (4 years, 50k miles, 60k for drivetrain, 4 year unlmited mileage for roadside assistance) is longer than most companies. All you need to do is keep good records of all maintenance that you perform yourself. If something goes wrong, and you've been doing the maintenance, they have to prove that you screwed up if they want to deny your warranty claim. So just take good care of your Rabbit, and stay away from the dealership unless you have a warranty issue.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    The cost for routine maintenance at most VW dealerships is pretty high.

    I really think that is typically only the case if you go in and say "do 20K service" and "do 40K service" (and this is not unique to VW dealers). If you go in at 20 K and say change oil and rotate tires, then it might be not so much. Of course, you will have to pay more for the oil, due to required synthetic.

    I have a new Mazda and it will have high maintenance costs, if I follow the dealer's recomendations and just say "do the 15k" and "do the 30K", when I go in. But if I read the manual and just do what is required, it will cost a lot less. I know people who spend plenty on routine maintenance of Hondas and Toyotas too, because they tell dealer to "do 30K" or "do 60K".

    The big difference I see between our Mazda and our VW is that our VW has a much longer list of "check this, inspect that" type of things on the maintenance list. I'm not sure how much, if anything, they will charge for these things as an "ala carte" item as I made the mistake of saying "do 20K" (it was the first time in 30 years of vehicle ownership that I ever did that and it will be the last).
  • eldainoeldaino Member Posts: 1,618
    i looked over my manual, and there is a lot of 'check this' and check that. I guess i just dont feel as good about doing the maintanence myself (though i'm going to do it anyway), as i would on , say my older civics, which didn't require me to order the filter online. :blush:

    I'm a little afraid of vw pulling a fast one if i do do the stuff myself, even if i provide records. it may not be fair, but they could very easily say 'we don't have to prove that you screwed up, we werent there when you did what you did to your car, and your not a licensed vw technician' or some bull crap like that. I gave vw a chance, and so far, my bunny has done me ok (he's just a little thirsty :P ) but because of the past existing vw issues, coming from virtually problem free hondas makes me FEEL like i HAVE to take it to the dealer, just for piece of mind alone...and the price for that is just to damn high.

    As far as ordering ideas a la carte, i don't think that it would change the price would it? I mean if at 20k i need my oil changed with the filter, my tires rotated, and just a bunch inspected, is it really THAT much more to 'inspect' those other things? And if its not, that still leaves you with a hell of an expensive oil change; synthetic is costly, but i doubt its all because of that.

    I'll call the dealers again, and ask how much an oil change and tire rotation is, and see what is told.

    I spoke to some dork at the honda dealer yesterday, (i was looking at some fits) and he says that he's been in the buisness for a long time (yeah how many times have i heard that? been in it for a long time and you still only manage to be a salesman?) and he says that its the ecu updating that is so costly; its the reason why when you get your oil changed and service done at the dealer, your car feels butter smooth, and yet when you do it, it feels just the same. Any truth to this? i doubt it...but the only stupid question is the one not asked right?

    oh well. I guess we'll see what happens.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    As far as ordering ideas a la carte, i don't think that it would change the price would it?

    I think it does only because most dealers will pack in their own recomendations when you do the package deals, so they do a lot more than the minimum required services. You know...stuff like $90 fuel injector cleaning.

    In addition, they will shorten the intervals. The VW dealer put a sticker on ours saying the next oil change was due in 5000 miles or three months. If we followed that we'd spend $200 per year instead of $50 on oil changes.
  • jbaustianjbaustian Member Posts: 78
    For my 2003 Golf, I had oil changes done at a dealership at 5k and 10k miles -- it was a little expensive but not outrageous. Then I made the mistake of scheduling a 20k service without getting a quote first. It ended up costing $350 and I provided my own motor oil! I was there at 8 am, they started working on my car at about 9 am, and the work was finished by about 10:45. I left feeling totally ripped off, and have done all my own oil and filter changes since then.

    I'm not poor, but I just can't afford the prices that dealerships charge for routine maintenance. Oil changes cost me about $35 -- I've been buying oil filters online, in bulk, for about $5 each (Wix, same as NAPA Gold). I only use the best synthetic oil, in the right spec and viscosity.

    I've had a local shop do brake pad and rotor changes, and a local carclub member installed my Koni shocks and struts at 100k miles. The timing belt has been changed twice by an expert in Fullerton CA, for probably about $500 less each time than a dealership would charge. I had a new clutch installed last month at a dealership, but I obtained my own parts and saved $550. I can't come close to an estimate of what I've saved by staying away from the dealerships, but it must be at least $4000 and possibly much more. If I was even a half-way decent DIY mechanic, I could have saved thousands more.
  • eldainoeldaino Member Posts: 1,618
    You know...stuff like $90 fuel injector cleaning.

    geez, crazy stuff, but all the invoices i've recived do exactly what the manual says needs to be done...which makes me wonder if just asking for the oil change/tire rotation would be that much cheaper, and just checking all the visual stuff myself.

    In addition, they will shorten the intervals. The VW dealer put a sticker on ours saying the next oil change was due in 5000 miles or three months

    same here. I noticed this right before i called and inquired about why my car was telling me i needed service at another 5k instead of at the normal 10k interval, and his response was, 'just come in, get a change done, i've seen this happen before, and if you want a sludged engine, wait until 20k, its up to you. In fact, i would get it done every 3k just to be on the safe side'.

    Yeah change your oil every 3k for synthetic. Thats rich! :blush: What a rip off.
  • eldainoeldaino Member Posts: 1,618
    Then I made the mistake of scheduling a 20k service without getting a quote first.

    i've done this twice; you know, getting the quotes, and the first time i asked, which was about 2 months ago, i was quoted from 2 dealers, one was giving me 160, the other 145. (160 was coming from the dealer i've gone to twice already.) I called both dealers 2 weeks ago, and it has mysteriously gone up in price (from both dealers) to $250. What the flip?

    It ended up costing $350 and I provided my own motor oil!


    man that is lame! this is exactly what i'm talking about!

    I'm not poor, but I just can't afford the prices that dealerships charge for routine maintenance

    my thoughts exactly, but i have also realized that is not ALL dealerships that do this, and certainly not all makes.

    The timing belt has been changed twice by an expert in Fullerton CA,

    i think i have found the guy i need in my area to do stuff like this (even though i don't think my timing belt needs changing, does the rabbit even have one?) but i used to live in fullerton, grew up in cali! :)
  • jbaustianjbaustian Member Posts: 78
    Q: " i don't think my timing belt needs changing, does the rabbit even have one?"

    I went here and checked:

    http://www.vw.com/myvw/yourcar/servicecenter/maintenance/en/us/

    ... and I don't think the 2.5-liter engine has a timing belt. At any rate, checking or replacing it is not mentioned. Consult your owner's manual, just to be sure.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    My next service will be the 30K, which is same as 10K. Our dealer always has a "free 27 point check" coupon, I am going to ask them if that covers all the stuff that is supposed to be checked. In any case, I am not going to worry to much about the 30K list of check/inspect items. When it comes to 40K, I think I will want them to do the full list, just in case it would uncover something covered by warranty.

    Yeah change your oil every 3k for synthetic. Thats rich! What a rip off.

    3K is overkill, even for conventional. We don't put many miles on, so end up going by time...if I followed their 3 mo. interval that'd be about 2000-2500 miles. At $50 a pop, this would be about 2.5 cents per mile just for oil, I don't think so.

    When I picked up my Mazda6 they said "must follow schedule 2..." this calls for 4 mo./5000 mi OCI. Then, subsequently the service dept. sends me stuff recommending 3 mo./3750 mi. I can't really understand this push for excessive oil changing, they can't be making much on their $20-25 oil changes or even the $50 synthetic changes for the VW.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I am pretty certain the 2.5 has a chain, not a belt.
  • owenrgowenrg Member Posts: 1
    I'm going to college and i'm looking for something that will last me a while, that is fun to drive and something that i can still put some stuff in. I'm probably going to get the 4 door rabbit with the manual transmission, but the TDI would be sweet. well, i hope to see it out soon.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    I am pretty certain the 2.5 has a chain, not a belt.

    VW engines with 5 or more cylinders have timing chains. Only the 4-cylinder engines have timing belts...

    HTH
  • eldainoeldaino Member Posts: 1,618
    the 40k scares me; both dealers quoted me over 500 dollars for it! :sick:
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Leaving out the inspect and checks, I believe 40K is:

    cabin filter (which you can skip if it does not stink yet)
    oil change
    air filter
    change spark plugs
    tire rotation

    They may also include brake fluid change in the package

    I'm thinking I'd readiliy accept paying maybe $300-350 (including the brake fluid change) for all of that. Edmunds maintenance cost tool comes up with $343, including labor for all inspect and check items, but then they are low on the oil cost, quoting $13. Oil will actually be about $5 per quart or $30 total...still that puts it at "only" $370.
  • jbaustianjbaustian Member Posts: 78
    RE: "Leaving out the inspect and checks, I believe 40K is:

    cabin filter (which you can skip if it does not stink yet)
    oil change
    air filter
    change spark plugs
    tire rotation

    They may also include brake fluid change in the package"

    Change the brake fluid every two years. Not based on miles but only on time.

    Do spark plugs need replacing every 40k miles? I thought they lasted longer, up to 100k miles.

    I'd recommend buying the oil and filters and doing the work yourself.... saving several hundred dollars.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Yes brake fluid is every 24 mo, I mentioned it because some dealers include it in the mileage based packages. One dealer near me includes it every 20K mi and another every 40K mi.

    Manual for the 2.5 engine says to replace spark plugs every 40K/4 years.

    I'm still trying to figure out this one from the maintenance schedule, though: "Replace air filter element and clean housing, Every 4 years for vehicles driven less than 60,000 miles / 97,000 km in 6 years". :confuse:

    For us everything is actually time based as we do less than 10K mi/yr. I'd guess our ">link titletotal for a 4 year cycle of maintenance will be about $650-800. So an average of $160-200 per year. Years 1 and 3 in the cycle will be just oil change and tire rotation, then 2 and 4 are the 20K and 40K.
  • eldainoeldaino Member Posts: 1,618
    man that stinks, i thought it would be longer. oh well.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Well, even if they claimed 100K mi, I'd want to change them every 4 or 5 years anyway...just to be sure they don't end up welded to the head.
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