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Comments
Just my observation. It might just be the ethanol. I'd like to see a poll of California vs the world in MPG, or ethanol vs the non ethanol.
My first couple of tanks were around 30 mpg, then increased to where it was running 37 mpg pretty consistently (didn't let it shift to 3rd gear on the steep parts of Grapevine). Then it decreased until Friday. I was thinking that my increased mileage since Friday was more careful driving (been doing that) but it's also less humid now. I had noticed that some of the biggest drops in mpg, along with the car not having quite as easy time climbing the Grapevine coincided with the unusually high humidity we had for a couple of weeks.
My City MPG to date: 22.66 MPG (dealer fill), then 25.37 MPG, then yesterday 28.51 MPG. I now have 916 miles on my Sport AT. I don't baby it and I don't race from light to light - I use Costco gas exclusively because it's cheap and convenient. And yes, I keep my tires inflated properly. I'm hoping (and expect) my mileage will continue to improve as the little beast gets broke in - good luck!
I wanna try it for my Fit but will need to know how to fix the window
Turn on ignition switch or start the car.
Push window switch down hard enough to activate "AUTO" and hold that until window fully reaches bottom.
Then pull up on the switch including "AUTO" and hold until window fully reaches top and continue to hold an additional 2-3 seconds.
If you have one of the radios that blink a red lite when car is turned off, it will have to be reset also to even work. The purpose of that type radio is that if it is stolen the thieves can't use it because they don't know the CODE. You have the code on a credit card size card in your new car book package. The card has the code for your radio and explains how to do it.
That info,the Idle Learn Procedure, and the Auto Window Fix are all contained within that Pilot service bulletin.
http://www.hondalac.com/service/Bulletins/x02-029e.pdf
Surely there is a get ready service bulletin for the FIT.
Hopefully someone can find it and get it posted.
I forgot to say that when doing the "Idle Learn Procedure" to let the engine continue to idle for an additional 10 minutes after the second cooling fan operation. An additional fan operation may or may not take place. The important things to remember are to:
1. Start with cold engine.
2. Turn off all accessories.
3. Disconnect battery for a few minutes.
4. Connect battery.
5. Start engine without touching throttle.
6. Let engine idle until 10 minutes after the radiator cooling fan cycles the 2nd time.
7. I then switch off engine for a couple of seconds, just in case. Kind of like re-booting your computer after a program install.
8. Then do the window and radio thingies.
NOTE: It can take 15+ minutes for the cooling fan to cycle the first time. It is very quiet and you need to keep a close eye on it. The good news is that you probably can't let it idle TOO long. So if you should happen to miss the 1st time, don't worry. just be sure you see it cycle twice plus an additional 10 minutes of idle after the 2nd time. It may or may not cycle during that 10 minutes.
Kip
I have the 11 page 2007 Fit: PDI "Get Ready" on my PC. How do I get it to show here? Thanks.............
Regards,
Bubba
I should have mentioned that it's a PDF file.
Bubba
36.54 mpg. I've been staying under 80, and I rarely accelerate hard enough to force the AT to jump back a gear.
Bubba
This is something that every FIT owner will want to download to their PC and read. Put the below URL in your browser Address and hit Enter. When you get to the site, it will ask to enter a 3 digit code that will be shown for you. This a pdf file.
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=6SIZBTNB
This is the 11 page Fit Service Bulletin 06-017. Enjoy.
Regards,
Bubba
60/40 Hwy/city
a/c use 90%
Miles: 358.5
Gallons: 9.503
--------------
= 37.73 MPG
I now have a Scangauge and will start using it next week. It will be interesting to see what I can do with my mileage.
Stay tuned.
I'm really interested in how Scangauge II works out for you. Also interested in the blue lighting compared to Fit's, how easy it is to connect, and mounting location you choose. Thanks.
The blue display color doesn't perfectly match the Fit's instrument color (which has a slight tint of purple in it) but it does look pretty good. The problem is where to mount it. I thought of mounting it under the climate controls -- that is where some Fit owners have mounted their satellite radios and and GPS's. But not very safe to glance at while you're driving. For now I'm going to use a temporary piece of masking tape so that I can move it around. For starters I have it taped above the top of the steering wheel. It blocks the lower edge of the speedometer, but not so you can't read it.
Re: the old model Scangauge - don't get that one. It's bulkier and ugly and doesn't have flexible settings and colors.
Problem is that I'm too computer illiterate to get them to my screen. Can anybody help?
Kip
THERE IS IN FACT AN IDLE LEARN PROCEDURE.
PAGE 4 item 37. It looks to be exactly like the one for the Pilot.
Just like with the Pilot it wants the engine to have cycled the cooling fan twice, then idle with all accessories off for 10 additional minutes.
I just gotta stress the importance of that procedure for the Pilots. It probably is just as important for the Fit.
If it was not done properly during get ready, your Fit may not "Be all it can be"
Notice in step 37 is says the engine should be warmed up from step 36. An experienced "Get Ready" person can do 36 in very few minutes. Way quicker than it takes to warm a cold engine while at idle. If the engine did not cycle the fan twice and idle an additional 10 minutes it was not done correctly! This has got to be done the first thing after battery or fuse is re connected.
Do it yourself and you will know it was done properly.
Before doing this procedure, don't forget to disconnect the battery for a few minutes first. I think they kind of did that by re connecting the fuse in step 9, page 2. Maybe you can just disconnect fuse # 8 and reconnect instead of the battery. That may work. Disconnecting the battery will work.
Great job bprenderson.
Thanks,
Kip
Since on the Pilot, they state it should be performed when -ANY- of the following are performed, it seems you should be able to -DO- any of the following to initiate the sequence:
• Disconnect the battery.
• Disconnect the PCM.
• Reset or replace the PCM.
• Remove the driver’s or passenger’s under-dash fuse/relay box.
• Remove the BATTERY (120A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
• Remove the BACK-UP, ACC (40A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
• Remove the No. 13 CLOCK, BACK-UP (15A) fuse from the passenger’s under-dash fuse/relay box.
• Remove the PGM-FI main relay.
• Disconnect the starter cable terminal from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
• Disconnect the connectors between the engine wire harness and the left engine compartment wire harness.
• Disconnect the connectors between dashboard wire harness A and dashboard wire harness B.
• Disconnect ground terminal G1, G2, G101, or G102.
Note the above steps are from the Pilot, and would have to be adjusted for the Fit (fuse numbers, etc.)
Removing a fuse appears to be the easiest, and leaves the least chance for messing things up.
That Fuse the FIT get Ready speaks of in step 9 may be the one that will disable and UNLEARN the computer enough that it has to "Learn" again. I just don't know what happened at the factory. Such as that fuse may have been disconnected before the battery was install so that nothing was "learned" at that time.
Now since your car has been driven, simply pulling the fuse may not be quite enough. You won't know if it was enough unless you saw some instant drastic changes in performance and/or MPG.. Disconnecting the "-" negative lead on the battery is the only way to make sure.
Nothing ventured, nothing gained!
Good luck,
Kip
Also follow up on whether there were any noticeable improvements immediately and/or later.
Thanks,
Kip
it was less than last time.. last time was 28.5mpg and 26mpg before that..
i hate this.. all highway driving and i get crappy milage still!
No improvement after 1k...
Miles Gallons City:Freeway MPG
232.8 9.975 50:50 23.3
264.0 9.498 30:70 27.8
218.2 8.484 70:30 25.7
218.4 8.418 40:60 25.9 (Idle Learn right after this tank)
191.5 6.497 30:70 29.5
234.2 6.552 10:90 35.7
In first glance, pretty obvious that my MPG did IMPROVE A LOT after the idle learn procedure. However, since I did quite a lot freeway driving for my last 2 tanks of gas, it is not a fair comparison. But one thing can be concluded is that the freeway MPG is a lot better than city MPG.
My next tank will restore to normal drive (50:50 city:fw) and I'll see how's my MPG then.
i drive mainly highway% and still only get about 28mpg..
Can anyone tell me how to remove the battery?
I opened the hood and see the battery.. there are two clips connected from the car to battery.. am i suppose to use a wrench and loosen them off or am i suppose to remove the bolt from the car to unplugg the battery? Is it possible to be shocked when removing the battery? Any advice and instruction is appreciated..
I ran through the first tank of gasoline, refilled over the weekend and wanted to share my fuel economy results with other readers and Fit owners.
9.795 Gallons
379.5 Miles traveled
38.74 MPG
Details:
Picked up new Honda Fit Sport Manual Transmission Monday night July 31. Topped off the tank after driving it home.
Load: Light load (driver only) 60% of time, heavy load (5 total passengers remainder).
Highway-City mix: 90% commuting (speeds vary from 0 to 70 MPH, lots of stop and go, 27 miles to/from work). 10% open freeway, 70-80 MPH did not use cruise control.
A/C usage: Approximately 75% of the time.
Tire Pressure: Not checked (assume dealer PDI of 32 PSI).
Driving Habits: Drove hard (red-line, full throttle acceleration) during first 30 miles for severe break-in procedure. Babied the rest of the time (although I did accelerate to keep up with the traffic flow). I do not follow the owner's manual recommended shift points. I typically upshift when the RPMs hit between 2000 and 2500. This allows me to put along at 30MPH in 5th gear in town without lugging the engine. I also skip gears (3rd to 5th or 2nd to 4th) at 2500 RPM without lugging the engine if I am driving in town or in heavy traffic.
Gasoline Used: Minnesota requires all unleaded (except for some premium blends) to use 10% Ethanol as the Oxygenate (I think this is being phased in nationwide to eliminate MTBE which is a known carginogen). 87 Octane. Minnesota has also passed a law requiring unleaded gas to be 20% Ethanol by 2012 I believe) FYI.
So far, I have been very pleased with the fuel economy. I anticipate being able to achieve 40+MPG over the next few tanks and I add miles to the car and use A/C less and less with the end of the summer almost upon us.
I opened the hood and see the battery.. there are two clips connected from the car to battery.. am i suppose to use a wrench and loosen them off or am i suppose to remove the bolt from the car to unplug the battery?
I have not looked under the hood of a Fit, but suppose it is similar to the CR-V.
Looking at the top of the battery you should see that there are 2 battery terminals. One has a red capped heavy wire (cable). The other has a "split" black wire (cable). That split black cable is the Negative and goes to two places. One place is probably on the fender well or some other place close and provides the ground to the car chassis. The other (heavier) black wire probably disappears into a hard to see place. You would have to loosen both those wires to accomplish the same thing as simply loosening the screw on the battery terminal and slipping the cable off the battery terminal. Disconnect the "BLACK" cable from the battery itself. Lay it aside so that it is not touching anything, or just hold it out of harms way for a couple of minutes.
Is it possible to be shocked when removing the battery?
Keep in mind that you are not physically removing the battery. Just one of the cables. Preferably the black one.
You do not want the black cable to touch the RED one or the RED battery terminal itself. Also be careful that your wrench does not touch the red side while wrench is still on the black side. That would result in a spark that would get your attention. That is known as shorting the battery.
Just take the black cable loose and lay it on a flat part of the battery itself away from either terminal or simply hold it away from the black terminal and any other metal for a couple of minutes. Then put it back on the terminal and tighten.
If it will help you feel better simply grip that black cable by the black rubber looking insulated part.
A couple of notes: The Grease on the battery cables/terminals is there to keep down corrosion. Don't wipe it off. Be very sure all accessories and ignition switch are turned off and all doors are closed before removing and replacing the Black cable.
Sometimes when replacing the black cable a very tiny spark can be seen just as the cable touches the battery terminal. Nothing to worry about and it is not going to bother you. Once the cable is even slightly seated on the terminal any chance of even a tiny spark is over. You can push it down and tighten. If the car doors were left open the spark might indicate it was attempting to send current to the inside lights.
You can do this!
Kip
Learned years ago that scoring or burning a bearing will result in early engine failure. :sick:
New engines generally have fairly tight fit of parts. Best to allow them to break in according to mfg recommendation, so as to not burn or score a bearing or break a ring.!
However it is your car!
When you did the Procedure, did you disconnect the battery or pull the fuse?
Thanks,
Kip
I disconnected the battery only... didn't annoy the fuse at all
There is no way of knowing if a car really got the full "Get Ready" treatment.
If your mileage does increase you will know that your Idle Learn was probably not done properly at the dealer. If it does not help, you will know there is another culprit.
If successful, your car and your efforts may prompt others to give it a go!
Some cars just get good mileage. Soooo...Even those cars that may be getting "Reasonable" mileage already could possibly benefit if the ILP was not done at the dealer.
One question: About how long did it take for the Radiator cooling fan to cycle the first time and how much longer before the 2nd cycle?
Thanks,
Kip
i guess when you say loosen both, do i loosen then take both off or just the black? If i'm only taking the black one off for a few seconds.. i guess the battery is "off" and will be reset once i put the black one on right?
If i'm not removing the red.. why would i need to loosen it?
Thanks!
Red = Positive ............. Black = Negative.
boatfloyd
Do what Boatfloyd said.
Just deal with the black cable where it is attached to the battery, at this time.
The circuitry in your car's computer may react instantly or may have some type of safeguard to protect the memory for a short period of power loss.
To be sure, it seems reasonable to take the cable loose, put it out of harms way, and find something else to do for 5 minutes or so. Then hook it back up!
Five minutes may not be necessary. I tend to overkill!
Kip
i would imagine that the engine might be a bit hot.. when is the best time to do it?
what if the fan never turns on during the idle.. should i turn on the a/c then off like someone else said they did to get the fan going?
thanks...
My gas mileage was reasonable before doing this (31-32 all town for manual sport, medium sporty driving), but decided to do it anyway. It will be a week plus before next fill up to learn any results. Car still runs fine, so I guess I did not hurt anything.
I wonder if it might not be a bad idea to do this seasonally, early summer and early winter?
Manuals say to start with cold engine, so just do it some weekend morning.
Engine needs to have been rested for several hours and cool/cold.
If the fan never turns on, the engine will eventually over heat and die. Just like it would while driving it and the fan doesn't work..
The instructions have been posted and talked about several times over the last couple of weeks. Look them over and do them step by step.
If you have a friend with some mechanical skills, it might be best for them to read the instructions and do the ILP for you. See post 385, as well as others.
Where did you read the bad idea about someone turning on the AC to speed up the process? :sick:
Kip
Yes, Good idea!
Kip
All driving in Colorado, air on 80% of time, 60% city 40% highway, tires at 36 psi. I'm happy.
I think this has probably due to my short and frequent commutes. I think the Fit is ONLY good for long trips. Start and stop really really HURTS the MPG of this car...maybe I should have gone for the Accord Coupe EX
-------------------------------------------------------
I don't have a Fit, but a 06 Civic EX coupe with Nav and Automatic and some air on. I get 26.7 miles per gallon in city, stop and go driving only. No highway what so ever. If I get the same as you and my veh is larger, heavy with a lot of stop and go here in Florida, than something is wrong somewhere.
Base Fit AT
25% Hwy, 75% City
223 miles, 8.8 gallons
25.34 mpg
Will try the Idle Learn Procedure next weekend and post whether that helped or not
i hope to break 300 miles on this tank before the red light comes on..
normally about 1 gallon left.. that will give me an average of about 33mpg.. i'll be soooo happy.. it seems like once i hit 1k it started drinking less gas.. or is it the increased psi? or is it not topping off the tank.. or is it the specific shell gas station i went to? haha.. whatever it is.. i'm happy..i'll report back when i hit red light.. it looks promising.. i'll take 33mpg anyday!!!
I just filled up for the 2nd time... 35MPG, which puts me at 37MPG overall (average over two tanks).
I have the Sport Manual Transmission. I have found that using the A/C does impact fuel ecomomy significantly and also suspect high engine RPM on freeway does too. I keep my speed at 70 or under and it seems to help optimize fuel economy.
Need to check the tire pressure next... I'd like to be able to regularly achieve 40MPG after the engine breaks in further.
My normal driving is mostly commuting which depending on traffic, can be a stress free 60MPH drive for 25 miles, or gridlock for half of that at constant stop and go 0-20 MPH with A/C on.
Have a friend looking at the Toyota Yaris, thinks he can get a similarly equipped 4door sedan for "around $12k". Good luck, I priced out a similarly equipped Yaris and it came in at $16700!! Ok, so that was with an automatic (his wife is making him get a slushbox tranny). Still, a far cry from $12k.
Have you ever wondered why there are different grades of gasoline? All grades of gasoline have what’s called an octane rating. So what is it and, more importantly, what should you use in your vehicles?
First of all, the engine in your vehicle burns fuel by compression – in other words, your engine is an internal combustion engine or burns fuel internally. The engine allows a mixture of air and fuel into the combustion area and a piston then compresses this mixture. Your spark plug then ignites this mixture causing an internally explosion that produces the power to run your engine.
Therefore, the octane rating tells you how much the gasoline can be compressed before it ignites spontaneously. Should gasoline ever ignite by compression rather than by the spark plug, then it would cause the engine to knock, possibly damaging your engine (think of it as taking a hammer striking the top part of your piston) – obviously this is not something that’s desirable.
Take regular gasoline with an 87 octane rating for example. This grade of gasoline would require less compression than gasoline with a 93 octane rating. Simply said, the higher the octane, the more compression it takes before spontaneous combustion occurs. Another way to look at it is that, the higher the octane, the slower the fuel burns, whereas a lower octane rated gasoline burns faster.
If you use a lower grade of gasoline than what your vehicle manufacturer recommends, then you run the risk of engine damage caused by pinging or pre-detonation. And if you’re using a higher grade of gasoline in an engine that wasn’t originally designed to handle a higher grade, you can actually reduce engine performance and gas mileage. How so? Since the higher grade of gasoline burns slower and you’re using it in an engine that was designed to burn a faster burning fuel, you therefore don’t burn all the fuel. If you don’t burn all the fuel, then all the air that is in the mixture isn’t burned either. Your vehicle computer sees more air in your exhaust system and then compensates by adding more fuel to this perceived lean running condition (more air). In short, you have more raw fuel being pushed through your exhaust system, causing your catalytic converter(s) to over work and possibly lead to premature failure, not to mention the pollutants released into the air. Unless you’ve had modifications performed to your engine (and computer reprogrammed) to run properly on a higher grade of gasoline, you won’t improve the performance of your vehicle just be buying a better grade of gasoline.
So which grade of gas should you buy? Use the grade that your vehicle manufacturer recommends unless you’ve had your engine modified and your computer reprogrammed to burn a higher grade of gasoline.
chris