Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Toyota RAV4 Maintenance and Repair



  • My 06 has 95000 highway miles. When does the factory suggest
    changing the transmission fluid?

    And the timing belt?

    Thank you.
  • It has a timing chain so I think never is the recommendation. As far as the tranmission fluid, I don't know what Toyota thinks but I would do it about now if I were you.
  • RAV4 and Internal Engine Control Module” failure.

    My RAV4 2003 (100K miles) actually kicks out of gear on re-acceleration, for stoplights, and heavy stop and go traffic situations.

    It revs up to about 2000 rpm before it engages when I accelerate to proceed.

    The dealer told me that it was the “Internal Engine Control Module” CODES P0755 and PI760. To replace that module costs 1200 dollars.

    My question is:

    Can I get that module and install myself?

    If yes, where I can get that part and the instructions to install it?

    Any help is appreciated, because with the economic downturn of the economy is difficult to pocket out 1200 dollars and I would like to do it myself.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    FIRST, make sure the ATF level is proper, high enough.

    But otherwise it more sounds to me as if one of the line pressure control solenoids has/is failing. Disconnect the battery briefly in case an ECU "relearn" procedure will/might work.
  • Thanks for your answer and insight. I will try to look at your points.


  • gilvkonagilvkona Posts: 31
    I was replacing the filter on my 2006 RAV4 today. The filter that was there had an up arrow. The replacement filter had an airflow arrow. Does anyone know what direction the airflow is for this filter so I can replace it properly? Looking at the filter, I don't know how it could matter.

    I called one dealer, he told me the flow was from the bottom to the top. The other dealer told me the opposite.
  • I didn't know there was a cabin air flow filter. Where is it??
  • gilvkonagilvkona Posts: 31
    There is a cabin air filter, sometimes called a AC(air conditioner) C(cabin) filter. It is located right behind the glove compartment. The replacement directions are in the owner's manual at the end of the AC operations section. The dealer replaced mine at 15k miles. I now am replacing it myself at 45k miles. It is pretty dirty, I must admit. It is very easy to replace, no kidding.

    A third dealer just told me the flow was from the bottom up. So there are two out of 3 votes in that direction. Looking at the filter, I can't see how it matters but who am I to tell.
  • typesixtypesix Posts: 320
    It does matter because if the filter airflow is in the proper direction, the filter element will be tightly sealed by the airflow(for better filtering) and will also rest against any bracing. In the incorrect position, the filter willed be pulled loose and not afford a tight seal and will not be supported by any bracing.
  • gilvkonagilvkona Posts: 31
    OK. But can you help me by telling me what the airflow direction is? Is the airflow from bottom to top as 2 of the 3 dealers said?

    Thanks for any help out there.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Don't take this as gospel but I can't imagine any Toyota/Lexus HVAC configuration wherein the airflow isn't downward. From the outside air intake at the bottom of the windshield toward/into the squirrel cage blower assembly below.

    In recirculate a damper closes the outside inlet and opens an alternate cabin air inlet above the filter.
  • nimiminimimi Posts: 249
    On page 381 of the 2009 Owners Manual, it indicates that there is an arrow on the filter that should be pointing up when the filter is installed.
  • gilvkonagilvkona Posts: 31
    As I said previously, the original has an up arrow. The replacement which I bought from the dealer has an airflow direction arrow. So they are different.

    However, I concluded the flow is indeed down. I put my hand in the open space and turned on the fan. The air pull down as one writer expected it to be. Also, I could trace the tubing from the blower or whatever I am looking at and it goes to the vents on the dash thus confirming the flow. You really have to look at it to figure out what is going on. And once again, based on my looking at the filter and looking at it fit, I could have placed this either way and it doesn't matter, in my opinion.

    At least next time, this will be easy.
  • I have changed tires before but never had one I cannot remove. Extremely frustrated!
  • typesixtypesix Posts: 320
    A mechanic once told me to step/stand on the vehicle's lug wrench to loosen the nut. It had come from the factory way over tight.
  • When I did mine on my 2006 on a narrow shoulder it was fun too. Factory overtightens for sure. Use a hollow galvenized pipe just large enough in diameter over the lug wrench to extend the lever arm to increase your muscles for you :-) Also use your legs, not your arms too, way more oomph in the legs and safer too for your back! I bought an oversize T style wrench the next day, and good thing I did as I got a second flat in less than 2 weeks! At least the darn spare is easy to get to!
  • carolinabobcarolinabob Posts: 576
    Replaced the OE Bridgestone Dueller's with Dunlop Radial Rover AT's on my '05. Tremendous improvement in both ride and noise reduction.
  • I'm wondering if anyone has experience riding in the 08 or 09 V6 with the run-flat tires and without (with a spare on the back). Is there a difference in road noise? Ride? Handling? Life of the tire? Thanks.
  • lenny20lenny20 Posts: 10
    RAV4 2007 6 cyl. Less than 36,000 miles Installed new tires three months ago (Nokian). Five weeks ago tire pressure light goes on, stays on steady for one hour.
    Then goes off. Dealer checks tire pressure--OK. This happens two more times; on third occasion dealer adds air to spare tire and pressure light goes off. Three days later pressure light flickers and then stays on bright steady. Tire pressure is checked with two (2) gauges--OK. After three hours tire pressure light goes off. Start car two hours latter and light goes on and stays on for now. I will demand of dealer that he do more than just add air.
  • Bought a Rav4 2009 last December. Today, I found there were some noises like "flowing fluid" when I turned on the air conditioner. The car only has 2200 miles on it right now. Is there something wrong with air conditioner?

    BTW, the car was towed before, will that affect the air conditioner? :sick:

    Thanks a lot!
  • mark19mark19 Posts: 123
    Yes I would say there is a problem with the a/c. On my toyota I had the a/c compressor go bad, and when it did that I heard what sounded like water rushing through a pipe. That noise was coming from behind the glove box area. Once the compressor was replaced no more of that noise. From what I understand the compressor being defective couldn't create enough pressure to move the refridgerant through the system, hence that water rushing or "flowing fluid" noise.

    Try and find a dealer who will understand what that is, and replace the compressor.

    Towing wouldn't hurt the a/c, it's like saying that your radio wouldn't work because the car was towed, doesn't affect it.

    Hope that helps you.
  • Is that the only time that you hear the "flowing fluid" noise? The noise that you heard could be the vents opening - does the vehicle have automatic climate control? You can identify this function by looking at the control panel. If the control panel has an "auto" button, it has auto climate control. Towing the vehicle will not affect the air conditioning system. At this point, your best bet is to take the vehicle to a dealership for inspection. The Air Conditioning system is covered by your Basic Warranty (36 months/36,000 miles)
  • Thanks for your comments.That makes sense to me.

    Just a bit sad that the car only has 2200 miles on it....
  • Thanks for your input

    The noise could only be head when I turned on the air-conditioner. My vehicle does not have auto-climate control function....
  • mrnice1mrnice1 Posts: 2
    I want to buy 2009 rav4 ,v-6,FWD limited , but i'm told that they are not sold in New York state and 4x4 is only sold in limited trim. Why is that?And can i buy it in another state where fwd limited trim is sold?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    FWD vehicles, especially those with "surplus" engine power, are patently UNSAFE in the wintertime conditions you will oftentime encounter in your area. There is also the inverse effect that I once encountered trying to buy a F/awd Chrysler minivan in Memphis, not much market there. Had to trailer one in from Chicago.

    Keep in mind that with FWD or F/awd when wheelspin/slip occurs due to the use of too much engine torque for conditions you have also lost, momentarily, directional control of the vehicle. That's why TC. Traction Control, is so quick acting and all encompassing on FWD or F/awd vehicle, traction MUST be regained quickly in order to reduce the potential for an accident due to loss of directional control.

    So a fairly lightweight FWD RAV4 equipped with a V6 engine would tend to be substantially more dangerous than one with F/awd or even with the I4.
  • kkrtrekkkrtrek Posts: 51
    What I ran into on the west coast (I'm in Oregon) was similar. We were not satisfied (to say the least) with the prices we were able to negotiate from in-state dealers, so we contacted dealers in California and Nevada. They were more accommodating, but claimed they were unable to get the specific 4-wheel drive model we wanted--that they were all being sent to the Northwest or elsewhere. I guess Toyota does this based on what they think will be most popular in different areas.

    I *think* the RAVs are all 50-state compliant on emission standards, so I don't see why you could not buy one in another state. You have to work out sales taxes, though. Another solution would be to work with a dealer in finding one to be delivered in the future and swap it with one your dealer is scheduled to receive. I think this is pretty common. It might be difficult to find a dealer who is willing to do that, at least until you convince them you are not going to buy what they have on the lot.
  • gjosgjos Posts: 2
    I just bought a 2006 and I am dismayed at the poor FM radio reception. Your post mentioned an "insert" so wanted to find out what that is. Is it an upgraded radio or FM booster?
    Thanks for your help
  • gjosgjos Posts: 2
    I am planning on paying $45 to a Toyota dealer to silence the beeps on my 2006 when I open or lock the car. I also want the seat belt beep silenced.

    Has anyone had this done and are there other opportunities I should know about to modify the programming while my car is "under the scan"?
  • cbmortoncbmorton Posts: 252
    Depending on which trim level you have there are a number of settings that have to do with locks, lighting and climate control. I had a few changes made to the auto climate control settings on my Limited as well as the seat belt warning disable. Note that "disabling" the seat belt beeper doesn't disable it entirely, but it does change its duration to about six seconds.
Sign In or Register to comment.