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Still looking for answers myself.
This should be checked with a digital graphing meter but a DVM can be used.
If you have your 5v referance, and ground, then check the middle wire for voltage while the throttle position is in idle position engine off. The voltage should be between .7volts to 1.1volts. While still conected move the throttle by hand smoothly. You should read a smooth increase in voltage at the middle wire (tp signal) When you reach WOT wide open throttle the voltage should be about 4.5volts. (engine off, key on) Understand that there is an allowable differance in referance voltage and ground of .2-.3 volts depending on the equipment being used. So if your referance voltage is 5.2 volts or 4.8 volts, thats still ok.
While in the idle position if your reading higher voltage than 1.1v, then your PCM thinks your demanding additional throttle. Some TPS are adjustable with slotted hold down screws, but most likely your tps is defective. Good luck, get back to me and repost.
Live with it or move up to mid-grade or premium gas.
1. about once a month after driving i go to start it and it will kinda start. Engine shakes like crazy and can not keep it running. First time it did it a friend of mine who has a Mech shop put it on computer showed everything ok. Ran great again for a little over a month. Then did it again missed work had it towed to ford dealership still would only shake on starting. I wiated at dealership a couple of hours they came out and said its running fine now they did not do anything and computer showed again nothing amiss. Ford people said maybe fuel pump maybe $650 for a maybe i said no. It did it again about a month after that but this time i let it sit for about 30 minutes and cycled key on and off a few times and it started and ran fine. I am going to replace fuel filter probably not it but a place to start. Any other suggestions. 2. I have a rattled coming from left front wheel area driving me up a wall. I hear it on normal bumps in road. When i jack up front end and hit things with a rubber mallet nothing. Any help. Other than that it is a great truck i get between 25 and 28 mpg on highway. Thanks Paul
For 4 Liter Rangers of about your age, there was a wide-spread problem of 'marbles in a tin can' rattle noise. But most of these were occuring at much lower milage. Some on almost new trucks, with just a few thousand miles. And some of them did seem to occur, or get worse, after an oil change.
As far as I know, there was never much of an actual determination of what caused this. Loose wrist pins, piston apron slap, etc, etc, were talked about, but nothing was ever pinned down as the cause. Ford did not want to do much about it either, calling it 'normal'. A few people did get Ford to replace engines, and some of the replacements had the noise come back.
The last I read about it, most people were just driving the truck, and the noise was not causeing much of a problem.
With your somewhat high milage, I'm not sure if you have run into the same thing. About the only thing I could tell you is to stick your head under the hood and see if you can narrow down where the noise is coming from. The 'marbles in a can' noise came from deep inside the motor, the 'bottom end', such as the crank.
You didn't put some strange oil into the truck? Did you get the correct filter?
At 65,000 miles, if you have the orginial plugs and wires, it's time to replace both.
-Look for a floor mat on top of you accelerator pedal.
-Clean the thottle body. There may be so much crap there that the throttle valve will not close.
-The Idle Speed Valve may be gunked up.
-The throttle cable may be binding.
Thanks for any help,
Rick
Ed in havasu
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The vehicle starts without any problem hot or cold. First start in the morning the idle speed is at about 1200 to 1300 rpm and then slowly return to its normal idle at about 8 to 900 rpm. the idle is smooth as silk and the engine performance is good for a 4 banger. After the vehicle reaches operating temp the idle begins to lope. Some times heavy enough to rock the vehicle but mostly just enough to aggravate the %$@# out of you and the engine performance poor. When at a stop the while loping the idle will smooth out and some times engine performance is good or bad. I have inspected the exhaust pipe and there is no soot evident so I suspect the vehicle is running lean. Incidentally it just passed the emissions test. I have cleaned the MAF, IAC and replaced the MAP. I have found no vacuum leaks. My brake booster was replaced due to a leak,; however, it did not correct the loping issue. No diagnostic codes have been tripped. I wish there was a way to test the complete system under load measuring components resistance will not tell you what it does under load also I am not a big fan of Diagnostic Codes on vehicles because there at too many variables in diagnosing the problem and could make some technicians lazy and not think beyond the codes. Please that is not an indictment of all technicians only the few and very far between that are out there Does any body have any suggestions, other than a can of gas and a match, on possible component failures or diagnostic techniques to locate a problem like this.
Thanks in advance to every one sharing their knowledge and expertise.
For a 1998 Ranger 4 Liter, I'm not sure you even have an over-head cam, which would require a cam chain. I was thinking they changed to the overhead cam in about 1999 or 2000. You might have a chain driving a pushrod motor, but I'm not sure you even have a cam chain.
I've run Valvoline oil and thought it was ok. The problem with giving a vehicle to one of these oil change places, which I think is what you are saying you did, is you really don't know what they did unless you make a great point of telling them what you specifically want. They probably used 'bulk' oil, and who know what weight they used. If they ran out of 10-30, or whatever you should have in that truck, they might load you up with 20-50 if they had some lying around.
I am having the same problem on mine, same year, same engine, Off-Road version 99 Ranger, 4.OL OHV. I am getting a miss every once in awhile, I have changed my plugs, cleaned the mas, but still issue continues. I have also noticed a lack of power which I am wondering if I have a injector issue ?
I have noticed that plug #4 seems to be always get black film around the outside.
Any suggestions ?
But if/when the computer 'sees' an out of range reading on a sensor, it will turn the light back on.
once a week w/ no visible leaks. Has fuel injection and a bardall solution in the fuel tank to help clean em. The plugs are new and gapped at .044 thou...Occationally it stays in 1st gear too long upon take off. Any input will be appreciated.
AL
Note: I am the 2nd. owner and have kept the oil changes regular, many thanks.