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Honda Element Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • gunga64gunga64 Member Posts: 271
    My friend has a 2005 Durango and supposedly a rock hit his
    condensor and broke his AC. Dodge also used the same excuse that they weren't responsible. I for one would like to know the scientific way they prove the damage came from outside the condenser and not just a week weld or low spot in the condensor itself. I would like the dealership/Manufactor prove to me that it was not a defect. Get the part after the repair.
  • cwalticwalti Member Posts: 185
    This is actually quite simple. I have been in the tooling business (Large Aircraft) for 20+ years. All I need to see is the damaged part and I will be able to tell you with great accuracy how this damage has come about. External impact damage is VERY different from faulty weld failure, home made modifications are easy to spot, and abuse and neglect can also easily be recognized. I would be surprised if a any external impact would be covered by anyone.... A seasoned and sincere pro cannot be fooled by a half baked amateur...
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Many of you have responded by discussing adding some kind of Grill or Guard in front of the Condenser to protect the Condenser, but all of you are skirting around the REAL problem. The problem is NOT the lack of PROTECTION on the CONDENSER. The REAL problem is the WEAKNESS of the condenser! Look at all these other cars on the road, with condenser failures being very rare, and you see all kinds of bugs, sticks and whatever stuck in them. WHY? Because they are made STRONGER! For a Problem to exist, the Tubing of the Condenser must be damaged or penetrated to cause it to leak and fail. The cooling fins are around the tubing for heat transfer, AND they are also THICK enough to provide protection to the tubing. If something hits the fins, they should extend out far enough in front of the tubing so that objects would strike the fins, and the fins will bend, absorbing and spreading the impact force so the tubing does not get damaged. The fins act like a cushion around the Tubing, if the fins are LARGE ENOUGH. Just go look at the condensers on ALL the OTHER cars out on the highway, check them at the Interstate rest stops to see all the big bugs and objects that get stuck it them and they still work fine. THIS is what I'm talking about, the Honda Condenser is made too weak and flimsy, and the REAL PROBLEM is that Honda should have made the condenser STRONGER. Trying to protect the condenser now is only an afterthought of BAD DESIGN! You should not have to be rigging up something on the front of your vehicle to protect the condenser, trying to fix Hondas mistake! You need to address the SOURCE of the problem. Complain Bitterly to Honda about their weak Condensers and also their lousey compressors on the CR-V's. Remember, the squeaky wheel gets the grease.
  • cwalticwalti Member Posts: 185
    I think you did something bad for lunch today. I have had leaaky heat exchangers in many other cars. A Pontiac Sunbird blew the radiator for no reason at all, and a linc conti blew EVERYTHING for no reason at all. I habd a radiator explode on an '82 Rabbit diesel truck for no reason at all... Carp just happens. I have owned Hondas since 1978 and NEVER had a problem with a heat exchanger of any kind. I currently own three Hondas from a 1991 Accord to a 1999 Ody to a 2005 CR-V and so far I have had nothing but bliss!!!! I would NEVER trade any of them for a ford EVER! The Conti cured me of any desires towars any fords...
  • rosetvrosetv Member Posts: 2
    Hello, I am having a problem with my shift lock release on my 2003 Element. I called the dealership and they said that brake pedal switch gets stuck sometimes and I need to reset it to get the shift lock release to stop freezing up. Where the heck is this brake pedal switch? I have looked through the manual and online. Can't find anything on it. The dealership says it's on the brake pedal but I can't find it. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks. :confuse:
  • rosetvrosetv Member Posts: 2
    My transmission seems to be slipping and this has coincided with the shift lock release. Are they related?
    Thank you! :confuse:
  • keelekeele Member Posts: 1
    Check this site out
    http://www.cloud-rider.com/screens_home.php
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I was not talking about all those other 'heat Exchangers' that you mentioned in your response, such as radiators. I was addressing ONLY the AIR CONDITIONING CONDENSER COIL that is located in FRONT of the radiator. Anything that hits the front of the vehicle can hit the condenser. This is the same setup that all the other car use. I simply stated that the condenser should be made strong enough to withstand the abuse that it is likely to recieve, like all the other cars out on the road. I've never had a Ford or Chevrolet or a Chrysler ever have a leaking air conditioning condenser, and I've drove many of them for many years all over the country. Judging by all these previous posts, this possiblity of the air conditioning condenser leaking caused of damage from an object hitting it from the front, seem rather high. I just simply believe that the condenser should be made strong enough to withstand the abuse that it is likely to recieve, no more, no less.
  • chilliwillychilliwilly Member Posts: 2
    My Windshield Washer Pump does not appear to be working. When I pull on the washer trigger, I don't even hear the motor. It works for the rear windshield, so I don't think the motor is a problem. Is there a relay that I can check. For some reason, Chilton and Haynes quit making manuals for foreign vehicles. I just know that this is a simple problem, and I don't want to spend the hundreds on diagnostics at a dealership. With winter coming, I'm going to need my washer soon.

    Thanks in advance for any help in this.

    Wayne
  • cwalticwalti Member Posts: 185
    I always buy the OEM manual for all my cars. Go to the bottom of this page, and you will find such a manual. It contains MORE information than you will need in 50 years. It is complete, comprehensive and specific to your vehicle... You might find it for less money too, I just poked at the first listing... Chiltons blow big time, I never had any luck with those rags...
  • wolfcreekadmanwolfcreekadman Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem on my 03 Element. It only happens at very low speeds (like turning into a parking lot. Or parking.)Did changing the fluid solve the problem?
  • n4sern4ser Member Posts: 5
    I got a 04 EX element automatic transmission. The other day, it wouldn't start. I turned the key and there was no noise and it didn't start, all the lights came on in the dash but there was no cranking. I had to get it towed to the dealer. They couldn't start it either and had to perform alot of tests. They tell me that it wasn't the battery or the starter. They think the car's gear wasn't in park all the way. So they told me that they reset the gear. So I got the car back. The car is starting after they supposidely fixed it, but today I went to the mall and while in the parking lot when I was ready to go home, the car wouln't start again. I moved the gear to make sure it was in park and I made sure it was in park. But still the car does not start. I don't know what to do now, I think I got to take it back to the dealer and they need to figure out what the problem is. The car is only two years old and I'm still paying for the financing. I'm thinking about selling it because I don't want to get stuck with an unreliable car. I have no way of predicting if it will start or not start. No one seems to know what the problem is. What if the car does not start in the morning and I have to go to work that day? This can be a big problem, I am just thinking about selling the car and getting what I can for it and buying a new car that works.
  • cwalticwalti Member Posts: 185
    ...This cannot be anything major. It may be as simple as a corroded connector or a limp relais... My bet is that the starter relais is intermittedly failing. This would give you the symptoms you describe. Sometimes you need to go to more than one shop before you find a clever head that understands how the systems work together... If you were to drive a GM, Ford, or Chrysler, you would be likely repairing a lot more serious stuff... This is an annoying inconvieneience but not a deal breaker, -- agreed silly stuff like this should not happen to HONDA. Call their service hotline and complain loud, they will fix you up.
  • chilliwillychilliwilly Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I could not find the link for the OEM manual that you spoke of, can you give tell me where I can find it?

    Thanks,

    Wayne
  • cwalticwalti Member Posts: 185
    ...follow this link and scroll down to the very last item....
    http://www.handa-accessories.com/elementmaint.html
  • n4sern4ser Member Posts: 5
    Thanks, I'm going to call Honda. The car is starting now, I didn't do anything to it. So the problem seems to be intermittent. Its going to hard to explain to the dealer!
  • cwalticwalti Member Posts: 185
    Not if you had it there before. Nobody is crazy enough to go to a dealer and complain about a non-existing problem... What you describe has all the ingredients of a $2.00 part failing causing you to lose use of the car. Honda should be very concerned with annoying stuff like this. This is what turns off customers,when ignored. Ford effectively got me to NEVER EVER own a ford again!!! I even made my mother in law park her mercury down at the curb. She now has an '06 Accord and is allowed to pull in the driveway now... :-)
  • keilers3687keilers3687 Member Posts: 1
    I just took my Element in this morning because it wouldn't start... It's pretty annoying when a car isn't even 2 years old and you go out to go to work and it doesn't start. I tried to jump it thinking it might be the battery... but NOPE!!! Then when I had it towed in they told me they probably won't even be able to look at it today. It's still under warranty- but christ- they can't even look at it to see if it is something little. I have had a ton of other cars- american and foreign... This takes the cake. I know everyone says that Hondas are great- but I don't like it when my car doesn't start.
  • cwalticwalti Member Posts: 185
    Do not take a crap answer like that! ...unless they give you rental, then you can care less. There are always jerks (anywhere) who will try to push you around. Call Honda directly and tell them that your two year old car isn't statring and the lousy dealer is trying to push you around. Do not take this laying down!!! Ask to talk to the mgr. if you do not get satisfaction there, talk to his boss, or call the franchise owner. Tell them you expect BETTER from a Honda!!! All my Honda contacts have been positive, but I clearly project, from the get go, that I will not be pushed around, (without being rude or offensive - of course.).
  • n4sern4ser Member Posts: 5
    did you find out what the problem was?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    It sounds to me like a "Dealer" problem, the Dealer is not able to diagnose the problem correctly and fix it. Since the problem is intermittent, it would seem that the problem is likely a loose connection somewhere in the starting circuit. You don't have to explain "intermittent" to the Dealer, they know what that is, and they have ways of finding intermittent faults, such as the "wiggle test" and such other tests. With all their expertise and knowledge base, they should be able to find the problem and fix it. Maybe you should try another Dealer.
  • redwingsruleredwingsrule Member Posts: 2
    One thing I hate to hear is people saying things like "you would likely be repairing a lot more serious stuff" when talking about "American" vehicles. I will probably be buying a 2005 AWD Element EX this weekend. It's sweet. But I'm not buying it because I think Honda is better than all "American" brands. I actually prefer GM products as I have always had good luck with GM and so has everyone else in my family. In fact, I currently own a 93 GMC Jimmy 4x4. (The Element will be an additional vehicle...NOT a replacement.) I bought the Jimmy in 1996. It had just 33,000 miles. It now has 255,000 miles and is still going strong. I fully expect to get another 100,000 miles or more. It has broken down and left me stranded exactly ZERO times! How many car owners of any brand can say that? I know of people who have owned Honda's and Toyota's who can not say that. And I have had to do absolutely nothing to the motor or transmission on my Jimmy other than follow the maintanence schedules and change the fluids and filters when required. I have also had no problems with the 4x4 other than one switch when it had 190,000 miles on it. It cost a mere $75 to fix. Because of this and experiences my family has had with GM, I know GM is as reliable and as good or better than any and all brands....so long as the owners take care of them and follow the maintenence schedules. If you do not do that your car will not last no matter what brand it is. The only problem for me right now is they simply do not make any vehicles that I find as appealing as the Element. No car company does. That is the biggest downfall with GM right now. The vehicles simply aren't that appealing to me or a lot of other people. On the other hand, I can honestly say I don't find Honda cars to be very appealing either. I like the Element, and the 07 Ridgeline and CRV, but I do not care much for the Civics or Accords. :surprise:
  • n4sern4ser Member Posts: 5
    got an update. i had an appointment with the dealer on friday, guess what happened? the car did not start that day! the problem has been intermittent and it was starting but all of a sudden didn't start again. i had it towed again to the dealer. when the car arrived at the dealer, they took it off the tow truck and it started!
    they have the car all weekend and now they tell me they are ordering a part that is not in stock and will get back to me. fortunately its still in warrenty. they gave me a loaner car. i'll need to stop by and see what exactly the problem is.
  • cwalticwalti Member Posts: 185
    ...everybody can recite stories of everrunning cars, and unquestionably some will run better and longer than others. I had a '91 Linoln Continental that I couldn't keep on the road for week. Fact is that a Honda, Nissan or Toyota statistically is less likely to be needing major repair compaired to the US or European brands. How many Yugos do you think reached the 250,000 mile mark under their own power? I own three Hondas, and while they are not perfect, in my world they represent a good value for the monies paid. I have a lot less trouble, maintenance is straight forward and when dutifully followed inexpensive.
  • n4sern4ser Member Posts: 5
    good news, the dealer has found the problem- the solenoid was malfunctioning. they tell me that they have not seen this problem in any other element and they were suprised when they discovered this problem. the car is under warranty and i got it fixed free.
    i stopped by the show room and i'm considering trading in my 2004 EX AWD for a brand new 2007 Element. I paid about 20,000 for the 2004 and I think i can get 16K for it now that its 2 years old. That sounds like pretty good resale value to me. Do you think I should do upgrade to the 2007? The 2007 apparently has better gas milege and more horsepower and 5 speed automatic compared to the 4 speed I got and it looks better too. The only down side to this car is the ride, when I go on the bumpy roads, I can feel everything and I don't like driving long distances. but thats expected as this is not a lexus. I wonder if the 2007 is improved in that department.
  • cwalticwalti Member Posts: 185
    Naaa, you are throwing away $$$$$$!!! What is the motivator? 5-speed auto? Color? Seatbelt location? If you get $16K, and the 2007 will cost you $25K drive-off, for what? 1.5 mpg? Drive the wheels off of the one you have! It will provide good service for another 20 years! On second thought, just send me the $9K check and I will look after it really well! :-)
  • krave73krave73 Member Posts: 2
    I have an 03 Element and lately my engine light goes on right after my Element starts to act like its out of gas and hesitates everytime I get to about 3000 RMP's. Ive checked everything from the oil, fuel enjectors etc...Has anyone else had this problem..Please let me know. Id like to fix it myself cuz my warraty is already out. Thanks..

    Scott
  • cwalticwalti Member Posts: 185
    First... -- ... go down to your local Auto Zone, they'll read you OBD2 code for free. Once you got that you can worry some more... :-)
  • thewaterhogthewaterhog Member Posts: 1
    :sick: I love my Element! It was my first brand spankin' new car!
    From the first time I saw it/ sat in it, it reminded me of my grandmother's old Scout. *ahhh* Nostalgia.
    I do hate the fact that repairs are costing me a small fortune, the rear brakes DO wear out faster, I HAVE had my radiator punctured by tiny rocks, I HAVE hit my head on the metal above the door and getting out in tight parking places is a [non-permissible content removed]! However, when my kids puke I just hose it down, I don't have little feet kicking my seat, I have just enough room for me and my 3 kiddos, I've put a couch and 2 kayaks in the back, the dashboard is perfect for my bobble head creatures and it's so nice laying across the seats to look up at the stars.
    Recently I've a major problem with it. Maybe it is to be expected...you see...I have an 03 Element EX with 120,000+ miles on it. Right before Christmas it was towed to the Honda dealership. I was driving to work and had a loss of acceleration. I was stepping on the gas pedal (When I stepped on the gas my engine did not rev) but my car continued to slow from 70 mph to 40 mph and downward. It then accelerated back up to 65 and proceeded to do this until I managed to pull off the highway. Anyway, I had it towed and they said it was the Catalytic Converter. $2,300.00 repair. $1,800.00 for just the part. *sigh* needless to say Christmas was pretty [non-permissible content removed]. When I paid the bill. The tech told me that it was rare for a converter to go, but now my Element will run for another 100,000 miles. "It is as good as new!" HAH! RIGHT! When I drove it away it ran really rough. A LOT of engine noise. *rattling* *shaking* It then started experiencing some of the symptoms I had right before my car broke down, but to a greater degree. Now like clockwork, between 35-45 mph my Element's engine does this "shimmy" It's almost as if it is going to stall out on me. When it does this I give it a little gas and it seems to come out of it. It never does it outside this 35-45 mph zone. After they repaired the converter I specifically asked if they found any other problems when they ran the diagnostics. The tech said "no, this is the only thing we found!" Since then I have had a tune up performed by a senior automotive tech who I completely trust. He works for a Ford dealership and unfortunately was unable to run another diagonstic test, but when he did the tune up he found nothing wrong. This is good news? He even drove the car and of course it wouldn't replicate what I had been experiencing! He did say that whatever the persisting problem is...it could have led to my converter failing. Just this past week I got new tires. They also did an alignment. I thought that maybe the shimmying could be a non-engine thing. Nope. Still doing it. Any ideas? Hints? Suggestions? I love my Element, but I can't afford any other major repairs!
  • cwalticwalti Member Posts: 185
    ...cats do not fail from one second to the next and sure not at 120K miles. You do not state where you live... If you are in a region where you see a lot of salt and ice and may have had a fender bender in the front needing body work and intruding the engine compartment, you may have corroded connectors or contacts. They tend to act up intermittently at first and then more frequent acting up on hot days more than on cold days or by cold weather... I have such a gremlin in my '99 Ody door right now... I have a pretty good idea what I am looking for. I think they mis diagnosed you on your cat though...
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    "you may have corroded connectors or contacts. They tend to act up intermittently at first and then more frequent acting up on hot days more than on cold days or by cold weather"

    Electronics are funny things...

    I have an '02 Hyundai Elantra with 90K miles on it. This is my "spare" car that I use as my daily driver, and my wife and I use it for running our weekend errands. The throttle position sensor started acting up a while back (30,000 miles ago). On hot days, after the car has sat for 8 hours or so, the first time you get in it and hit the gas, it stutters for about 1-2 seconds, and then is fine from then on. I live in the southeast, and during the months where the daily high temperatures is under 80 degrees, it doesn't do this. However, come May, it starts doing it again like clockwork.

    The same car has 1 other "electrical quirk". It has the remote/keyless door locks, and 1 out of every 20 presses of the button, all the doors will lock/unlock except for the driver's side door. I suspect there is a crimped wire or bad connector in that rubber sleeve in the driver's side door jam, but I'm not certain.
  • boho1boho1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    Are you sure it was Catalytic Converter, because last time i shopped for Catalytic Converter for another car it was around 70 bucks for the part, my quick search got me some universal Catalytic Converters for around 100 bucks for Element, with some modifications you can get it fit Element easy. 1800 for the part was too much. Are you sure it was just Catalytic Converter.
  • eneiseneis Member Posts: 2
    I have the tell-tale grinding from the back end of my 2003 Element EX. I will try changing the fluid, but I'm wondering if this has been an issue for others, and what it took to fix it. I hear the CRV has had many rear differential problems.
  • eneiseneis Member Posts: 2
    this may be of interest to others, so I'm replying to my own message. I had the rear differential fluid changed (at about 51,000 miles) and that took care of the noise.
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    Typically, I replace the rear diff fluid and the auto transmission fluid every 30K in my vehicles - regardless of what manuals suggest. The 30K intervals have never let me down.
  • grs34grs34 Member Posts: 1
    What fixed the problem? My Element started this today.
    Thank you
  • krave73krave73 Member Posts: 2
    grs34

    Actually nothing fixed the problem. I did change my oil with some good oil and that has seemed to stop it for now. Ive heard that if the oil is old or something there is a sensor that shuts down some cylerders so you dont over heat. Maybe that was the deal. [non-permissible content removed] oil leads to a [non-permissible content removed] car..lol Other than that time will tell.
  • willmdwillmd Member Posts: 1
    My 2004 Honda Element with 44K miles has been fine until last week when it unexpectedly stalled while turning left on a very hot Florida afternoon. The clock display also went off. I shifted into park and restarted it easily. There was no warning, no engine or other noises. About an hour later, it happened again after making another left turn. The next morning there were no problems turning left, and no stalls now for two days. I think it is an electrical problem somehow associated with left turns. The Honda dealer found nothing wrong, and no error codes. Anyone have any ideas about diagnosing the problem?
  • colloquorcolloquor Member Posts: 482
    I'm considering a 2008 Element, and am wondering if the cracked windshield anomaly with the Element is no longer a concern. I understand the problem was with the windshield mounting flange in the lower left-hand corner - perhaps improper finishing at the factory?
  • hotdwghotdwg Member Posts: 2
    Have a 08 Element SC. Was installing a tekonska control unit on it. Only thing I did to violate the wiring I guess was to tap in at brake pedal switch for signal to control unit. I have used this control unit on 3 different vehicles. Tapped into lights in rear at taillights. Well, the check engine light came on, vsa light on, engine idle lopping from 2500 to 3000 rpm. Not much throttle response. Of course the Honda dealer is no help at all, duh, u have to bring it in, so we can plug it up. An idle relearn procedure is all they could suggest... Its in the manual they say. Wrong, but found it on net.. Did not help anyhow. Anyhow, just was wondering if anyone has ever had this happen, and what caused it. Besides me.

    Thanks,
    hotdwg
  • mattrc15mattrc15 Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever get an answer for the pump problem, my 03 E has the same problem, any suggestions? Thanks
  • rlmntrlmnt Member Posts: 3
    After my '04 Element's A/C stopped working last week, the local Honda Dealer's service manager informed me that the A/C system was "full of metal" - indicating a complete internal breakdown. He could flush the system and replace the compressor but wouldn't recommend it because the metal pieces couldn't be totally eliminated and the system would fail within a year - probably sooner. So, his repair estimate? $3,500. He claims that only by replacing the entire system (all parts) could A/C capability be restored. This strikes me as 1) extreme and 2) expensive. Does anybody have any suggestions for me? Thanks!
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    That service manager is no help! I've worked on AC for many years, mostly american cars though. You have experienced a compressor failure and resultant system contamination, I have seen and repaired it many times. It is called "Black Death" on Fords. The system becomes full of tiny metal particles and black sludge, which is actually powdered metal. This all comes from the failure of the compressor, the compressor blows it through the system, and this stuff keeps circulating in the system, contaminating and destroying everything. the metal particles and sludge clogs the system. It is expensive to fix, but I think less than what you were quoted. It will require what it called a "Firewall Forward Replacement". The only thing that will remain original is the evaporator. It will require the removal and replacement of the compressor, condenser, all hoses, refrigerant control (which could be an orifice tube or expansion valve), reciever/dryer or accumulator (whichever applies), in other words, everything except for the evaporator must be replaced. The evaporator would need to be thoughly flushed. I would be concerned about WHY the failure occured. If the AC was properly serviced with the correct refrigerant and correct amount of correct oil, and not allowed to leak down with out being serviced, the compressor should last for many years. Does this happen in Hondas often, or is this a common problem? To help prevent this from happening again, there are "Inline Filters" that are available to install in different parts of the system, that will catch and filter the metal particles. They are not stock items, so the Dealer will not endorse them. Several different companies make them, and they come in different styles, the "Pancake Filter" being the most common. They are made for different applications, so that come with different types of ends and adaptors. They also come with generic hose ends, where you would simply cut the hose and splice and clamp the "pancake filter" into the hose. Several locations are possible, depending on the layout and how much room you have. The best location is in the discharge hose from the compressor, before the condenser. This location offers the most protection as it will catch any metal that comes out of the compressor before it has a chance to get into the condensor or the rest of the system. The next best location is in the hose between the condenser outlet and the refrigerant control, this will catch any metal before it has a chance to plug the refrigerant control, get into the evaporator and back to the compressor. The airflow through the radiator and condenser must be checked also. Be sure the fans are working correctly. Poor airflow overheats the condenser and causes high head pressure on the compressor, which can shorten it's life. When putting back together, be sure to insert the correct amount of the correct compressor oil, Evacuate the system to a deep vacuum for at least an hour, and charge with fresh refrigerant to the correct amount and pressures.
    I would suggest you locate a reputable independant AC shop in your area and discuss the subject with him, and discuss this e-mail with him. He will be able to give you direct advice and quotations. I would suggest using NEW parts, not REBUILT or REMANUFACTURED parts. And of course, check prices around at several shops. Look for a shop that is busy and clean looking and gives a good warrenty.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • rvoightrvoight Member Posts: 2
    The lighting for the gear shift failed; anything I need to know to change the light/bulb/diode???
  • rvoightrvoight Member Posts: 2
    I have a fanatstic Bentley's Manual for my BMW.
    Is there a similar publication out there for the Element??
    (Chilton manuals aren't nearly as good as Bentley's).
  • joel30joel30 Member Posts: 6
    can anyone please tell me what's wrong with this 03 element ex, the engine light came on about two days ago. The code is reading p0442 evap emission control system leak(small).
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Most likely cause is loose gas filler cap. Other than that, there could be a leak in one of the hoses in the fuel evap system. It would need to be checked by a mechanic, they would test it by putting some pressure in the system, or pull vaccum on the system, and see if it holds, If the pressure or vaccum leaks down, it confirms a leak. If it is a big leak, it may be easy to find by pressurizing the system with smoke and see where it leaks out, or you may be able to hear the leak. If the leak is small, if could be a lot harder to find. Hopefully, your problem will just be a loose gas cap, tighten it down and see if the check engine light clears after a few start ups.
  • bshellybshelly Member Posts: 1
    I have an 03 and the Drive indicator light started blinking. What does this mean? I do not have an owner's manual. Can anyone "enlighten" me"
  • stoner20stoner20 Member Posts: 1
    This may be a strange question but here goes. My husband while we were tailgating fell backwards and hit his head on a ladies 05 Honda Element tailgate. It was the very top of his head and it was the very far left side of her tailgate. She then went to shut her tailgate and her rear cargo light wouldn't shut off. An officer came over and got it to shut off after closing it. Now she's got an estimate to repair and they are saying they have to replace the whole tailgate for this sensor. Can this be true? What really gets me is she admits to being rear ended at a light with a car that didn't stop like 6 months prior and had it repaired/replaced. I just can't believe that him hitting his head could cause such a problem. Any input is greatly appreciated.
  • cwalticwalti Member Posts: 185
    You are getting scammed!!! One would incur a skull fracture and NOT knock the tailgate outta whack! Nothing here makes sense....
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