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2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs

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Comments

  • amy22amy22 Member Posts: 4
    Imagine that, you have rattles too. My crossbar (under the headliner) was rattling. We couldn't figure out what it was but we mentioned it when we brought it in for this other problem and they said it was a loose crossbar and fixed it, but it started rattling again. I'm so tired of dealing with these problems. If it was just one thing wrong that would be different but other weird things too. This car was undriveable at one point this past winter (longer story), we'll see what happens when it gets cold out again.
  • vizyovizyo Member Posts: 35
    Today I booked an appointment with Toyota for rattles and also the noise at the back. The person in Toyota told me that rattle on dash is common and it is missing some pads in 2007 models. They will take down the whole dash to fix it. I am now worrying that this may create more rattles in a long term if they do not put everything back properly. The door on the driver's side rattles as well. I do not know when I am going to be done with all fixing on this car. My camry was unfinished with a lot of defects and problems. I am really tired of taking it to service. I am wondering about what they will say for the "knocking" noise coming from the back. I will post it.
  • vizyovizyo Member Posts: 35
    I was wondering if you had any problem after having rattles fixed on the dash? I am having the same problem and Toyota service informed me that they would take the whole dash down to fix it. I am now worrying if this could create more rattles afterwards. I do not have much confidence in their service quality.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    The ABS pump, is up in the engine compartment, on the passenger side, way up in the front corner. It's right next to the plastic radiator overflow resevoir. It has 4 or 5 metal tubings coming up out of the top of the pump. The motor is on the back side of it, shaped like a metal can. You can feel it self test and clunk once after starting and you begin rolling.

    Can you describe the 'randomnly slips a gear at higher speeds' problem?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Knocking coming from the rear, is usually caused by one of a couple problems:
    - something is loose in the trunk rolling around, or the jack/spare tire equipment is loose
    - the muffler exhaust system has a hanger loose, and is banging against a suspension or frame part. You can check this yourself, grab the exhaust (when cold), and wiggle it back and forth, and forward and backward.
    - the rear suspension strut is loose (or defective), or wasn't assembled correctly and is binding as it's compressing.
  • vizyovizyo Member Posts: 35
    I do not think it is any of those you listed. It makes the first noise at exactly 15kmh (10mph) and second one at 30kmh. It perfectly repeats at the same speeds. If it was muffler or suspension, it should make the noise more randomly. I am taking the car to the service this wednesday. They will check it and also fix the rattle on the dash. I am still debating if I should get the noise on the dash fixed. They will take the whole dash down, I am worried that it is going to generate more noise afterwards.
  • torn8otorn8o Member Posts: 31
    Was a TIN ever put out to fix the accelerator delay problem in the 2007 Camry, or is this something one has to deal with? I'm really tired of nearly getting "creamed" by oncoming traffic when I try to dart out from a sideroad and my Camry sits still and/or rolls slowly forward for 2 seconds instead of accelerating.

    My dash still rattles (even after two TINs being performed on it), but the upshot is, I'm used to it by now and pretty much over it. :-)
  • torn8otorn8o Member Posts: 31
    Oops.. I meant TSB (Technical Service Bulletin), not TIN.

    Just to clarify, I drive a 2007 V6 SE... bought it new 04/10/2006.

    Thanks for any help.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    The TSB's for hesitation work great, no more hesitation. But they are for the 4 cylinder, I have not heard of hesitation for the 6 cylinder??? Anyone else?
  • nmarcel1nmarcel1 Member Posts: 21
    There is a TSB for the hesitation problem... I had it installed... it did kind of fix the issue... but to be honest.. my hesitation problem was not as bad as you describe yours.. I've learn to adjust the way I press the gas pedal to avoid the hesitation problem that still exists.. we should not have to accept that but Toyota just has not fixed the problem entirely... Also, I had the TSB installed for the dash board rattle. At 1st it seemed to quiet the noise but to be honest... it did not make it go away. The noise is really present when it is cold... I live in NY and I expect the noise to be back in the fall and winter of this year.

    The repair requires "Noise Kit #08231-00801", and "Wind Noise Kit #08231-00810". Toyota allowed the dealer 4.5 hours for the repair (under warranty).... to be honest, in my case I do not believe the dealer installed these kits... I could not detect 1 thing disturb anywhere around the dash... it just seems impossible that the tech's would be able to remove and replace the entire dash without a trace that it was disturb.... oh well... I'll see how bad it gets when it gets cold again and I will bring it back if the noise comes back.

    The bulletin number is: NV008-07
  • bobbabobba Member Posts: 3
    In response to your message regarding accelleration delay. I too struggled with delayed accelleration and had OBC reprogrammed 2 times. Did not help. Ironically I replaced the air filter and it drove like a different car. Perhaps the initial filter restricted air flow. Try it. It may resolve the problem. Let me know if it worked for you.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Torn,
    The TSB's I believe the others are mentioning apply to the I4. I am not aware of any TSB for V6 hesitation (and from what I've heard nobody is complaining about the V6 not having enough get up and go!).....so I'm suspecting you have something uniquely wrong with yours.

    Have you driven another where you can see the difference, and has it been experienced by the service manager?
  • thomasj2thomasj2 Member Posts: 12
    The difference for me was like night and day. The TSB for this worked perfectly and there was no after affects from removing the dash. I would highly recommend that you have it done. I will say though that I have high confidence in the dealership and the same service adviser where I have been going to for some time now. Before them, I had one dealership I would never trust because of their lack of knowledge in trying to fix a problem with a Tacoma I once had. :mad:
    Hopefully your dealership will take good care of you. :)
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Good Morning All:
    I have not been on this board for long time! ------ I will be taking my V6 XLE Camry in for it's 30,000 mile service. The vehicle is 16 months old, and I do not have any of the issues that I see posted on this board. I would have more miles on this vehicle, but I have a second car.
    Those of you who have read my posting in the past know that I change the oil and filter every 2,500 miles at the dealer. I just believe in VERY GOOD maintenance.
    I am not saying that problems do not exist with this vehicle, but how can I have a vehicle that does not have any of these issues, and other owners have all these problems? ------------- Did I just get "LUCKY"?
    I love the ride and the comfort of the XLE. On long trips I have gotten the MPG computer up to 34mpg without the use of the cruise control. This was done on 87 "off brand" gasoline.
    Once I get to around 95,000 miles I will be looking to trade in this vehicle. (The extended warranty is for 6 years or 100,000 miles. I will not own a vehicle without a warrnty. They are just too expensive to repair!) --------- One of the vehicles that I will consider will be a new XLE Camry. ----- I will also look at a Chevrolet Impala.
    Best regards to all. ----- Dwayne
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Impala? Why? If you're going to consider a Chevy, why not the much more modern Malibu?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Glad to see your post to know you're doing fine and happy with your car.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Hi All:
    Took the Camry in for it's 30,000 mile service on Tuesday morning, (Oil & Filter, Tire Rotation, Brake Check ----- etc.). While it was there, I had the power steering fluid changed and the throttle body cleaned. When I drove out of the shop and entered the highway, I noticed that the engine was "VERY RESPONSIVE"! ---- Yes there is something to be said for a "clean throttle body!"
    Best regards to all. ------- Dwayne :shades: ;):)
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    I agree, cleaning the throttle body is a great idea.
  • mayrogemayroge Member Posts: 9
    Recently, we have noticed a foul musty odor coming from the inside vents when starting the car and the fan is running, in our 4 cyl 2007 4-door Camry LE, which now has about 5900 miles on it. The bad smell goes away after several minutes, but returns each time after we turn off the vehicle, for say more than an hour and then start it up again. We are geographically located where high humidity exists most of the year.

    I took it to a Toyota dealer, and the service reps basically told me I should NOT be using the recirculate position on the fan when I park the car and shut off the engine. They did check the cabin A/C filter and said it was not the source of the smell. They said that because of the design of the evaporator box in the Toyota A/C, the box will accumulate moisture if the air control is left on re-circulate when the car is turned off. Switching to recirculate several seconds before shutting off the engine will allow the box to drain moisture properly. At first, they didn't even want to write up a ticket, but I insisted on it, so it would be documented for Toyota (and us). At least they DID keep the vehicle overnight and used an "ozone machine" on it for several hours the next morning, which was supposed to kill all the bacteria or whatever was causing the odor. I am grateful that the dealer did at least take this action.

    While I cannot dispute the reasoning to use "fresh air" prior to shutting off the car, I feel like Toyota has once again settled for mediocrity (just like the transmission hesitation issue). What bothers us most is that we have only had the vehicle for a little over a year, while we have had OTHER vehicles for 8-10 years, parked them in the same garage, ran them in the same environment and had NO issues like this, even though we never concerned ourselves with switching the air control, like we NOW have to do with the Camry. Has anyone else had this issue or found a TSB for it? I am trying to get an idea of how wide-spread the issue is.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    In a hot and high humidity area as well, and have not experieinced that problem you define. However, I have to say we never use the recirculation setting either. Sometimes it gets turned on by accident by turning the temperature selector all the way counter-clockwise, but we then turn it off so we have fresh air coming in.

    There is no TSB for this that I have or have seen.
  • barroncbarronc Member Posts: 44
    From time to time I get a weird smell in my 2007 Camry XLE V-6. It usually goes away after the car has been running for awhile. I've never had this happen on other cars I've owned.
  • sandman46sandman46 Member Posts: 1,798
    Living in South Florida, we always use the recirculation button on our cars with no problems. It does get pretty humid down here also. Are we doing something wrong here?

    The Sandman :confuse:
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Read a few pages of posts starting "here":

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0e896b/148
  • belaircarguybelaircarguy Member Posts: 107
    Mayroge - I live in an area of the country that in humid and operate the A/C in all my vehicles in the recirculation mode all summer all the time. This keeps the interior much cooler and allows for a quicker cool down. As for the musty smell, the Camry (along with many newer vehicles) have an interior cabin air filter. It is located at the bottom of the dash on the passenger side. There is a little black door/cover which you can easily find and open. Pull the filter out and take it to Pep Boys or auto supply store and get a replacement. I have normally had to replace these about once per year. The filter gets dirty and musty and creates that smell you describe. Replace the filter and the smell will go away!
  • mcase2mcase2 Member Posts: 160
    I don't know about GM, but Ford already has built a better car than Camry v6: the Taurus. I don't want anyone to just take my word on it. I invite everyone to take a look at Consumer Report's latest automotive ratings and compare the rapidly increasing and now markedly superior reliability of the Ford Taurus with Camry v6's dismal track record. The Taurus is one of their recommended buys. The Camry v6? Well read it for yourself. By the way fxguy, how do you justify claiming "only a small percentage of owners" are experiencing transmission problems? Where did you get your statistics? According to a true and disinterested mass survey by Consumer Reports a large percentage of people are experiencing not only transmission problems, but rattles etc. from poor body integrity. The Camry v6 has been assigned a very poor reliability rating. And, to add insult to injury, it is evident from perusing this forum that Toyota is also guilty of inexcusable prevarication and outright denials. Oh, what a feeling!
  • dwb2dwb2 Member Posts: 24
    Up until recently I was a Toyota service manager. To STOP this probelm is very simple. When you first start the car, run the a/c on regular mode for about 10 minutes. This will allow the system to bring fresh air thru the system, if you wish you can then go to the recirculate setting. When you run on recirculate all the time a door closes and does not allow fresh air into the a/c system. All you are doing is recirculating the air from inside the passenger cabin. This is where you get the musty smell. I had several customers like you who had the same concern. Once they tried what I recommended they had no more problems. This does work. Give it a try.
  • dwb2dwb2 Member Posts: 24
    This is not the stability control. It is the ABS system and it goes thru a system check everytime the car is started and you hear the noise in the first 5 feet. This is a normal function of the system and nothing is wrong with your car.
  • dwb2dwb2 Member Posts: 24
    If you haven't already returned to your dealer there is a service bulletin to reprogram the transmission shift points int eh vehicle. After having this done I don't believe you will have any more concerns. Has corrected every vehicle that has been done in my shop.
  • mayrogemayroge Member Posts: 9
    I appreciate the info and suggestion, but the point I wanted to make in the forum is that I should not HAVE to do this. Why is is MY responsibility to treat the A/C system like it is so fragile? I want to tell Toyota - don't give me a bandaide, SOLVE the problem. Toyota needs to know that their Camry A/C systems have issues in humid areas. If people have to stand on one leg and holding their breath to the count of ten when they choose to use the A/C system, something is WRONG with the design. Other brands of vehicles that have been parked in the same environment and same garage have not done this. So I will continue to point this out to Toyota each chance I get until they want to start charging me, And actually, your procedure is different than what the dealer's service department recommended to me. So are you stating that they did not give me good information or the best procedure to use?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Don't be so quick to single out Toyota for this problem, this is an industry-wide, even industry world-wide, problem.

    One of the functions of an A/C system, intentionally or otherwise, is dehumidification of the cooled airflow. That ALWAYS, invariably, results in residual moisture left on the approximately 10,000 sq. in. of evaporator surface vane area each and EVERY time you shut the A/C off.

    That's a LOT of water.

    There are solutions but not enough complainants to justify developing an industry-wide solution.

    In the meantime try the EED at airsept.com
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    My wifes 2005 Camry has a little catch or rough spot when you turn the steering wheel. No noise from the PS pump or belt. It has 35000 miles on it and has been good until now. Does anyone know what this could be? It goes into the shop tomorrow and forwarned is forearmed I always say. Thanks!
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    My 2004 with 53K miles does this also, but only when turning left at low enough speeds that the steering wheel is rotated about 90 degrees.

    My son noticed this problem when he had the car in L.A., but when I got it back home at around 32K miles, I never noticed it until after 36K miles, when the warranty ran out. It hasn't gotten any worse, and there's nothing amiss visually underneath the car, so I haven't bothered to get it checked out.

    I'd be curious what your shop says. But here's something I saved from Edmunds about checking out a used car that could be relevant:

    Make identical motions with the steering wheel. Here's a good one — while driving in a straight line at 35, turn the wheel smoothly from 15 degrees to the right to 15 degrees to the left and back a couple of times. Look for dead spots in the steering or notchiness that might indicate a problem with the steering rack or suspension bushings.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    If I recall right mine also did that turning left at low speed when you turned the wheel maing sharp turns. This car is a year out of warranty but less than 36k I believe. Comments on getting toyota to pay for this?
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    I didn't try with Toyota. Although the selling dealer is in my town, I never go there for service except for the free annual safety inspection required by Virginia (saving a big $16 if I were to go elsewhere).

    The problem is rather difficult to reproduce, so I bet they'd say they couldn't "duplicate the problem." If it was still under warranty, I would have tried.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    I checked the belt, all the hoses for leaking, the fluid in the PS pump and all seemed good. Definately notice a soft thump when you turn the wheel lock to lock sounds like its coming from inside the dash where the steering shaft would go.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    The steering rack is just ahead of the firewall, so my guess is that's why it feels like it's in the dash. There's really nothing to get hung up between the dash and firewall except for the intermediate steering shaft, which is a known issue on the Camry (and cause for a recall on some 2004-05 Priuses).
  • dwb2dwb2 Member Posts: 24
    The problem is the lower steering shaft. There is a service bulletin on it. Replace the lower shaft and the noise will go away. NOTE: Toyota will only stand behind it for the original 3 years/36k miles. But if you are out of warranty and raise a barrell of h..., they will fix it.
  • dwb2dwb2 Member Posts: 24
    This can be a problem on any vehicle a/c unit. The a/c MUST have fresh air to operate properly. The recirculate does just that. Recirculate the air already in the cabin. After a while you need to reintroduce fresh air to keep mold and musty smell from becoming a problem. I can't disagree that there might be a design problem, I just offered a simple way for people not to drive themselves crazy with it. Toyota will not be much help, I know this for a fact.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    What is the lower steering shaft? Is that the rack? What has to come out to get at it? Thanks!
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Thanks, although I don't have a noise per se. It's more like "stiction" or a hang-up when I turn the steering wheel to the left at low speeds. The local dealer also doesn't have a stellar reputation for service, and I'd have to drive 35 or so miles (one way) to the next closest dealer. I'd do so if they'd really fix it (correctly) for free, but have a feeling I'd just be wasting my time, gas, and breath.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    The lower shaft goes into the rack. It's not easy to get to, because it's tight up against the firewall.
  • jmikesfjmikesf Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Camry XLE with 35,014 miles. Yesterday morning, I ran 2 short errands and parked the car for about 5 minutes each time. After the 3rd errand, I tried starting the car and it wouldn't turn over; on the 2nd attempt to start, same problem; on the 3rd attempt, I took the key out of the ignition and it started right up and I had no other problems starting the car for the rest of the day. The exact scenario happened this morning (it took 3 attempts to start the car), but again no other problems starting the car for the rest of today. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    See if it happens with different keys.....
  • norm25norm25 Member Posts: 1
    My outside temperature does not resister on dash any more I have OBD II code reader and my question is where do i plug it in to read it if possible? :(
  • jhumphriesjhumphries Member Posts: 1
    210 delray,
    I think I know the problem you are talking about. My wifes 07 Camry's steering ocassionally sticks at low speeds when the wheel is turned to the left around the 10 o'clock position. We took it to the dealer before 36000 miles and they said the steering column needed greasing. They removed the plastic panel inside the car below the steering column and supposedly greased it. That did not fix the problem and it still has the same issue. Let me know if you find out what might cause this problem. I think it is a pressure problem in the rack that puts back pressure on the steering shaft.
  • farpostgoalfarpostgoal Member Posts: 2
    At my 15000 mile checkup on my 2 year old 2007 Camry 4cyc. the dealer noted that the power steering fluid was dark colored and wanted about $85 to drain and refill. Did my own drain (suctioned with a battery filler-looks like a kitchen baster) and refilled two times. The removed fluid I put in a clear plastic soda bottle and it was dark colored similar to regular coke! Will monitor closely now. Don't know if I have a problem with some of the power steering components are not. My VIN number starts with a J. Anyone else noticing dark power steering fluid etc.?
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Typical dealer ripoff tactic. PS fluid does darken over time, but it really doesn't have to be changed. Might be okay to do it at 100K miles if you want, but 15K -- no!

    But doing it your way is a cheap alternative, and you beat the dealer at his own game!
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    I've heard about the grease trick -- it never works.

    I'm not so sure the problem is back pressure in my case, because the steering wheel always sticks in the same position, and only when turning left. Seems if there were a pressure problem, it would show up at random steering wheel positions.
  • grampy1grampy1 Member Posts: 140
    I had a similiar problem on a Taurus. Rack had to be changed
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Thanks, that's what I was afraid of. I'm not going to do anything then unless the problem gets worse.
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