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Can you describe the 'randomnly slips a gear at higher speeds' problem?
- something is loose in the trunk rolling around, or the jack/spare tire equipment is loose
- the muffler exhaust system has a hanger loose, and is banging against a suspension or frame part. You can check this yourself, grab the exhaust (when cold), and wiggle it back and forth, and forward and backward.
- the rear suspension strut is loose (or defective), or wasn't assembled correctly and is binding as it's compressing.
My dash still rattles (even after two TINs being performed on it), but the upshot is, I'm used to it by now and pretty much over it. :-)
Just to clarify, I drive a 2007 V6 SE... bought it new 04/10/2006.
Thanks for any help.
The repair requires "Noise Kit #08231-00801", and "Wind Noise Kit #08231-00810". Toyota allowed the dealer 4.5 hours for the repair (under warranty).... to be honest, in my case I do not believe the dealer installed these kits... I could not detect 1 thing disturb anywhere around the dash... it just seems impossible that the tech's would be able to remove and replace the entire dash without a trace that it was disturb.... oh well... I'll see how bad it gets when it gets cold again and I will bring it back if the noise comes back.
The bulletin number is: NV008-07
The TSB's I believe the others are mentioning apply to the I4. I am not aware of any TSB for V6 hesitation (and from what I've heard nobody is complaining about the V6 not having enough get up and go!).....so I'm suspecting you have something uniquely wrong with yours.
Have you driven another where you can see the difference, and has it been experienced by the service manager?
Hopefully your dealership will take good care of you.
I have not been on this board for long time! ------ I will be taking my V6 XLE Camry in for it's 30,000 mile service. The vehicle is 16 months old, and I do not have any of the issues that I see posted on this board. I would have more miles on this vehicle, but I have a second car.
Those of you who have read my posting in the past know that I change the oil and filter every 2,500 miles at the dealer. I just believe in VERY GOOD maintenance.
I am not saying that problems do not exist with this vehicle, but how can I have a vehicle that does not have any of these issues, and other owners have all these problems? ------------- Did I just get "LUCKY"?
I love the ride and the comfort of the XLE. On long trips I have gotten the MPG computer up to 34mpg without the use of the cruise control. This was done on 87 "off brand" gasoline.
Once I get to around 95,000 miles I will be looking to trade in this vehicle. (The extended warranty is for 6 years or 100,000 miles. I will not own a vehicle without a warrnty. They are just too expensive to repair!) --------- One of the vehicles that I will consider will be a new XLE Camry. ----- I will also look at a Chevrolet Impala.
Best regards to all. ----- Dwayne
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Took the Camry in for it's 30,000 mile service on Tuesday morning, (Oil & Filter, Tire Rotation, Brake Check ----- etc.). While it was there, I had the power steering fluid changed and the throttle body cleaned. When I drove out of the shop and entered the highway, I noticed that the engine was "VERY RESPONSIVE"! ---- Yes there is something to be said for a "clean throttle body!"
Best regards to all. ------- Dwayne :shades:
I took it to a Toyota dealer, and the service reps basically told me I should NOT be using the recirculate position on the fan when I park the car and shut off the engine. They did check the cabin A/C filter and said it was not the source of the smell. They said that because of the design of the evaporator box in the Toyota A/C, the box will accumulate moisture if the air control is left on re-circulate when the car is turned off. Switching to recirculate several seconds before shutting off the engine will allow the box to drain moisture properly. At first, they didn't even want to write up a ticket, but I insisted on it, so it would be documented for Toyota (and us). At least they DID keep the vehicle overnight and used an "ozone machine" on it for several hours the next morning, which was supposed to kill all the bacteria or whatever was causing the odor. I am grateful that the dealer did at least take this action.
While I cannot dispute the reasoning to use "fresh air" prior to shutting off the car, I feel like Toyota has once again settled for mediocrity (just like the transmission hesitation issue). What bothers us most is that we have only had the vehicle for a little over a year, while we have had OTHER vehicles for 8-10 years, parked them in the same garage, ran them in the same environment and had NO issues like this, even though we never concerned ourselves with switching the air control, like we NOW have to do with the Camry. Has anyone else had this issue or found a TSB for it? I am trying to get an idea of how wide-spread the issue is.
There is no TSB for this that I have or have seen.
The Sandman :confuse:
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0e896b/148
One of the functions of an A/C system, intentionally or otherwise, is dehumidification of the cooled airflow. That ALWAYS, invariably, results in residual moisture left on the approximately 10,000 sq. in. of evaporator surface vane area each and EVERY time you shut the A/C off.
That's a LOT of water.
There are solutions but not enough complainants to justify developing an industry-wide solution.
In the meantime try the EED at airsept.com
My son noticed this problem when he had the car in L.A., but when I got it back home at around 32K miles, I never noticed it until after 36K miles, when the warranty ran out. It hasn't gotten any worse, and there's nothing amiss visually underneath the car, so I haven't bothered to get it checked out.
I'd be curious what your shop says. But here's something I saved from Edmunds about checking out a used car that could be relevant:
Make identical motions with the steering wheel. Here's a good one — while driving in a straight line at 35, turn the wheel smoothly from 15 degrees to the right to 15 degrees to the left and back a couple of times. Look for dead spots in the steering or notchiness that might indicate a problem with the steering rack or suspension bushings.
The problem is rather difficult to reproduce, so I bet they'd say they couldn't "duplicate the problem." If it was still under warranty, I would have tried.
I think I know the problem you are talking about. My wifes 07 Camry's steering ocassionally sticks at low speeds when the wheel is turned to the left around the 10 o'clock position. We took it to the dealer before 36000 miles and they said the steering column needed greasing. They removed the plastic panel inside the car below the steering column and supposedly greased it. That did not fix the problem and it still has the same issue. Let me know if you find out what might cause this problem. I think it is a pressure problem in the rack that puts back pressure on the steering shaft.
But doing it your way is a cheap alternative, and you beat the dealer at his own game!
I'm not so sure the problem is back pressure in my case, because the steering wheel always sticks in the same position, and only when turning left. Seems if there were a pressure problem, it would show up at random steering wheel positions.