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Why did the dealer suggest the battery? Measured low voltage ?
Did you then not have the dealer replace the battery, but took it somewhere else to check the battery? If so, did they perform a full load test on the battery and alternator? This battery may or may not be the cause of your problem, but you are probably at (or close to end) of the useful life of that battery if it is the original. I have an '07 (actual build date on drivers door jamb sticker April of '06), and my battery needed replacing about 3 months ago. So you should be thinking of replacing your original battery anyhow as a preventive measure so you don't get stuck somewhere.
Back to your problem, could be any number of things. I would make sure the mass air flow sensor is clean as well.
Dave, I was curious to see you mention the "mass air flow sensor". I've never even heard of this; what is it?
I have the exact same vintage Camry as you, and I, too, have been experiencing rough idle, strangely, ever since replacing my plugs and air filter about two months ago....which I thought would have smoothed things out, if anything.
Technology (and Toyota) works in mysterious ways!!
P.S. I'd be VERY surprised if the battery were the cause of Morley's problem.....especially if it's had no problem cranking the engine.....wouldn't you?
Inside the MAF is a heated platinum wire which is exposed to the intake air. By supplying a specific electrical current to the wire, the ECM heats it to a given temperature. The flow of incoming cool air cools both the wire and an internal thermistor, affecting their resistance. ECM computer reads this and uses this as one of the inputs to determine how much fuel to shoot thru the injectors. I'd expect a DTC of P010x for a MAF problem, if identified and detected by the computer.
In regards to the battery question, the OP indicated that the dealer suspected the battery. Could have had a low voltage at that time, serious amount of corrosion (which causes a resistance, dropping apparent voltage as seen at the fuse block), or who knows what other kind of problems given voltage affects many different sensors.....all used as inputs to the computer. If battery 'checked' by someone else, hard to know what or how they checked it.....and why that is now inconsistent with dealer feedback.
Given the age of the battery, I would start there first to make sure the battery and alternator and cable connections are absolutely known to be good and supplying a good stable voltage to the vehicle. As an example of the MAF above, the sensor could be providing a low output voltage. If you replace the sensor, the new one may also provide a low output voltage. The reason, the 'input' voltage to the sensor is too low to begin with. So start with a good known voltage as a base, and troubleshoot from there.
There are a lot more unsafe things on the highway to worry about than sticking gas pedals -- how about drunks or distracted drivers around you in traffic? Tractor-trailers with out-of-adjustment brakes or exhausted drivers? Boy racers in a hurry?
I've known how to....
1. Step on the brake
2. Turn the key off (to the first notch)
3. Shift to neutral
4. Pull off the road
5. Dial CAA/AAA
.......ever since I learned how to drive, 50 years ago. I'm not going to forget now, simply cause a recall notice went out after 6 people (out of 80 million Toyota owners) DID forget how to do these things!
Man up, buddy. Keep the car......and just keep your wits about you....as usual.
It seems there are always the same pro Toyota people on these always backing up Toyota. They have a big mess and tried to cover up problems and have continued to mislead Toyota owners including myself.
I can't tell you how many times I have taken my car to the dealer to complain about hard shifting, rpm flare,ect to only hear them come back to say the car is operating as normal.
It is almost laughable to think they though they can resolve this with floor matt recalls and gas pedals.
This is surely a electronic software issue and Toyota is has tried hard to deny that. The truth will come out soon and set us free!
I'm just pointing out that this alleged problem with Toyota accelerators pales in comparison to many of the other ways you can die while driving. Again, 100 people died yesterday in the US alone from traffic deaths and 100 more the day before that. Where is the outcry?
If commercial airliners went down every single day with 100 deaths, you can be sure that no one would be flying withing a matter of DAYS. Yet the road carnage goes on, and state legislators make matters worse by repealing motorcycle helmet use laws, refusing to pass primary enforcement seat belt use laws, allowing heavier trucks on highways, disallowing red light cameras and photo speed radar, and raising speed limits on roads where it may not be appropriate. Not to mention the lax drunk driving laws in some states.
This is surely a electronic software issue and Toyota is has tried hard to deny that. The truth will come out soon and set us free!
Yes, a lot of people want to believe that because their home or work computers may lock up every day, but why would Toyota spend hundreds of millions in recalling cars for interfering floormats and sticky gas pedals with all the attendant bad publicity, if the "real" problem is still out there, waiting to kill the next innocent victim?
BTW, did anyone ever find the "real" killer in the murders attributed to OJ?
210, you're not insinuating OJ killed them with a toyota that ran away with uncontrolled acceleration??
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Actually, I don't worry too much about drunks, because I'm not out in the wee hours when they are most common. I also stay away for the most part from heavily traveled high-speed 2-lane roads where only a painted line separates you from a head-on crash.
The actual number of traffic fatalities in 2008 in the US was 37,261, the most recent year for which fatality data are available (102+ on average per day). The greatest proportion of those who died (25,428, or 68%) were occupants of cars, pickups, SUVs, and vans. I'd expect the 2009 totals to be lower, mainly because of the recession. But obviously still way too high!
More fatality facts here.
Compare these huge numbers with 34 alleged deaths due to Toyota sudden acceleration in the last 10 or 11 years.
I purchased a 2007 Toyota Camry XLE new in 2007. ----- I now have 58,000 + miles on this vehicle. ----- I would have more mileage on this vehicle, but I also have other vehicles. ----- I am sure that there are issues with this vehicle, but I have NEVER had any issues with this vehicle. ----- This vehicle is serviced by the selling dealer every 2,500 miles, (my choice!) ----- I have had the throttle plate cleaned at least twice during this mileage. -----I always warm up my vehicle in the cold weather prior to driving, (my choice!) ----- This vehicle has a fantastic pick-up, and it shifts without a problem. ---- I would purchase another Toyota product without hesitation! ---- NO, I DO NOT WORK FOR TOYOTA or a TOYOTA DEALER!
Best regards!
Dwayne :shades:
I'm new to this forum and I didn't realize that there are others out there who are having the same problem as we are. We are having problems with the transmission on our 2007 V6 Camary. It too,jolts and you can feel when the car is not in gear at times the car will hesitate moving forward and there are times when the gear sounds snappy,I would have difficulty shifting,the shifter lever would make a loud snapping sound when I would try to shift to drive or sometimes in reverse. There were on several occasions when I would start the car and the car will crank but wouldn't start. I noticed that our car was doing this when we first bought it and we took it to the dealer but the dealer is saying that there's nothing that they can do cause it's not showing the symptoms that I just described,they said unless we leave our car as their shop for an undetermined time. Anyone out there with the same issues or problems? What should I do? Our car only has 35k miles.
A knowledgeable acquaintance of mine said it sounded as though fuel becomes too heat-soaked for the engine to fire up immediately, or that fuel pressure suffers when the engine is hot. I've taken the Camry into the dealership twice to be looked at, but both times it decided to be on its best behavior for the service writer and I was told there wasn't a problem.
Has anyone experienced this firsthand? If so, what was the resolution? Thanks.
My apologies in advance if this topic has been discussed ad infinitum. I did a search, but couldn't locate a relevant topic.
With the engine idling or cruising with low/light engine loading the upstream oxygen sensor(s) is(are) the sole source of control of the A/F mixture. Under higher engine loads/loading, acceleration, the oxygen sensor signal goes out of range due to the need to enrich the mixture. With an enriched mixture the MAF/IAT (Mass Air Flow...Intake Air Temperature) sensor module is used to control the A/F mixture.
I had an '80 Volvo that did this, but I'd have to crank it for something like 15 or 20 seconds, then wait for the starter motor to cool down, and try again. It always eventually started, but it was a pain. This car had mechanical fuel injection, not a carburetor, so it was advanced for its time. The ultimate fix was a new fuel distributor for nearly $500 in parts and labor back in '87 or so.
I have no idea if your car has the same issue, hopefully not!
I also neglected to mention that this condition only occurs when the outside temperature is in excess of roughly 80 degrees. Unfortunately, 80 degree+ temperatures occur frequently in Austin, TX.
I'd say you'll have to have someone look at the car; it's hard to diagnose over the internet.
I'd say you'll have to have someone look at the car; it's hard to diagnose over the internet.
Note to others: this affects only the V6 in 2007-10 Camrys plus the same engine in some other late-model Toyota vehicles including the Avalon, RAV4, and Lexus ES.
I went last week to Toyo and asked what they are doing about the recall and what they are going to do for me. They said they need 3-3 1/2 hours to fix the gas pedal and also they found a new defect for the oil line. I said I heard and read they are going to pick up customer cars and give us a loaner, the service guy practically laughed{if he had a sense of humor, he would have} He said dont believe anything you read. He also hemmed and hawed about my 07 V-6 even being eligible for the recall. I almost lost it.
I told him my car doesn't slow down sufficiently enough and its been in there for that very reason. He said there is no problems with the efficiency of the braking system.
Wow, so I need to set up a time and sit and wait for 3+ hours. Lets see if it works but I cant wait till I get rid of this car. I know all cars have issues but this is scary
Will be hard to trade in these cars after they have taken a further depreciation on top of the normal decline in valuation. One other footnote, on my 2007 XLE-V6, my transmission went out at 5000 miles and was replaced and the engine started pinging like a cumins diesel around 25,000 miles. The local Toyota dealership couldn't figure that one out so they contacted Toyota in California and got authorization to replace the engine. Toyota offered me a 4 year / 100,000 mile Toyota Platinum Warranty with no deductible for all my troubles. I actually might buy another Toyota since they stand behind their products after the sale. I never received that kind of service when I drove other brands - but then again I never had to have a new trans and engine replaced.
The fix worked on my Camry; however Toyota never notified owners of this problem and the related fix. I felt sorry for those who were unaware of Toyota's software solution and notified the feds who have yet to do their job and force Toyota to have a mandatory recall.
My question is what are these &$#@ worth? The 2005 has 30k miles and some scratches but is clean. The 2007 has 67000k and some dents and scratches and is also clean. My scan of the internet reveals that the resale values do not reflect the recent Toyota disaster. (the reason Tojo bows is so it is easier to kick him in the a_ _. My guess is that the 2005 may be worth between 10k-12k. I have no idea what the 2007 is worth. Any help would be welcome. Thanks in advance.
I have a 2007 camry 4cyl and I noticed that the coolant level was low twice last month. Brought it to the dealer today and they say that they have to visually see that the coolant is leaking even though there are some 'pink' residue around the water pump. I'm worried that the warranty will soon expire (120 miles left) and I might not be covered anymore when the water pump actually drips before they do the repair.
For consolation, they did the recall program with the auto idle back when you press the gas and brake at the same time and shaved the pedal a little bit.
tony
Any suggestions out there?
1. Carpet fixed. I had no carpet in the car so I asked the dealer what had been done and he said that the two plastic floor hooks had been installed.
These were in the car when I brought it in! I don't know what should have been done.
2.Accelerator pedal fixed. I had no way to check this. :sick:
3.Oil line repaired. :surprise: I didn't know that there was a recall on this but I told him that it had been fixed 2 mos ago by another dealer. I said that his "service technician" would certainly have known it had been repaired. I was told that this repair used the very latest toyota fix parts. Again I said why did you do this and was told, "We had to" :mad:
Draw your own conclusions.
My coolant color is yellowish. And it's not oily.
I think the only redish, oily fluid I have is the transmission fluid. I thought perhaps something was leaking from an upper area, and dripping near where he thought it was the water pump. He said the transmission oil level was ok.
Anyone here knows if the water pump has its own lubricating fluid and if it's red? Any suggestion / tip? The drip rate is perhaps 5 drips per night, so I'm considering riding this until a warning light comes on. Is this a good idea???
Thanks.
Thanks.
If you want to conclusively prove that it is a water pump leak; have the shop run a pressure test on your cooling system. When they pressurize the system; any worn parts will leak much faster than they do when sitting overnight. And this will disclose the location of the leak.
If the red drips (yellow in your case if mixed with conventional coolant) are coming from the passenger (right) side of the car, then it must be from the water pump. The transmission and most importantly its oil pan, sit on the driver (left) side of the car.
There's always the smell test -- new transmission fluid (also used as power steering fluid) has a rather strong aroma resembling roasted chestnuts. Coolant has more of sickly sweet smell (and also dissolves in water).
LOL, The only reason I happened to know that myself, is my daughter wanted to review how to check the fluid levels this AM. Had the hood open, and she checked everything and said ....what's this one?
It's hard for me to fathom most young women even knowing how to open the car's hood in the first place!