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Comments
I have had trans issues since I owned the car. They replaced the valve body once then the trans. did other re flashes to correct the rpm flares which led to a compromise in my MPG.
Long story short after this last recall fix I got my car back and it ran better than it ever has, Trans shifted as smooth as ever. Gas mileage was way up. It was short lived though. After 1 week of enjoying what felt like a perfect trans it started shifting back to it's old ways. It also seems to go bad after it rained. Not sure if that has something to do with it?
The dealership has always said they can't find anything wrong with my car. Which I feel they are protecting themselves against the lemon law.
Does anyone know what is going on with this car?
Sometimes the car goes into severe slow down mode which the dealer would call engine braking. I don't buy that because it happens at different times and when the car was running great it never did this so called engine braking.
I need help and a fix. Thanks
Service manager offered to replace the transmission (from the same car as engine) and to split the cost of labor and part, which I accapted because I did not have (better) choice. I am still under impression that I was played somehow.
I am not going back for service there.
Perkan
Also, last time had brakes checked still lots of life left, but going down a steep hill at freeway speeds when depressing brakes, steering wheel shakes a lot, when release brakes it stops.
Lastly, it seems within the last 2k miles or so, upon heavy acceleration, the car does not shift as smoothly?
Car still under warranty, so anything I can ask dealer to check?
Do you get a vibration at 55-60 mph range, that's the speed that you'll typically feel a tire that is out of weight balance will start to show?
When you go to the dealer; also tell then to look up and apply the following five different TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) which Toyota has issued for this car; all of which pertain to the steering, vibration, and shift problems:
TSB-0106-08 (NHTSA # 10025856) (June 2008) Front suspension flutter; Body vibration at highway speed.
TSB-0061-08 (NHTSA # 10025103) (May 2008) Automatic transaxle torque converter shudder.
TSB # 03607 (NHTSA # 10022763) (August 2007) ECM calibration enhancement to shifting performance and smoothness.
TSB # 00207 (NHTSA # 10022143) (April 2007) Techstream ECU flash reprogramming procedure.
TSB # 00207 (NHTSA # 10220993) (January 2007) 3rd-4th gear shift flare.
Also report the concerns you have posted here, and make sure the dealership has a written record of each one them (as shown on the service invoice they give you).
With the braking wobbling (most likely a warped rotor), sounds like your vehicle might be driven a little on the hard side. You may also have some suspension parts with wear, contributing to the pull to the right. How's your CV joints, are you getting any creaking or jerkiness with tight steering wheel turns while starting off from stop sign?
went to dealer today, most problems solved, but car pulling to right and some vibration not fixed, they inspected whole front end and all parts underneath, checked balancing, etc. Their Alignment machine is down for repairs for 3-5 days, so actually sent it next door to tire place where I just got it aligned and tires, now they are saying it is the Camber that is out. The manager of tire shop had left for day, and they told me that the tire shop only does alignment to make sure tires do not wear, but have now way of fixing Camber problem. Toyota says to bring it back late next week to test on their alignment machine and then see if need to put in bigger bolt in Camber to fix (they have not determined if they are going to charge me or not.
Here are my questions-
I bought Sumitomo tires from this tire shop 3 weeks ago, and car started to pull, called them and they said to bring it for alignment, paid and had it aligned, got paper print out, but did not really pay attention to it, they say toe was out and now good, drove it again and pulling right, they said sometimes tires need 500-1000 miles to wear in, so did that. Still pulling, called again, blamed cheap tires I chose and told me to come in and switch to Dunlops that they have experience with, did that change and cost me $100 more. Now I learn this, and they blamed cheap tires. What should I do? nothing wrong with those Sumitomos I bought originally and now a Camber problem that tire shop can't fix and have to go through Toyota. I have probably spent 3 whole days on this problem.
What would you do? feel like tire shops owes me some $.
went to dealer today, most problems solved, but car pulling to right and some vibration not fixed, they inspected whole front end and all parts underneath, checked balancing, etc. Their Alignment machine is down for repairs for 3-5 days, so actually sent it next door to tire place where I just got it aligned and tires, now they are saying it is the Camber that is out. The manager of tire shop had left for day, and they told me that the tire shop only does alignment to make sure tires do not wear, but have now way of fixing Camber problem. Toyota says to bring it back late next week to test on their alignment machine and then see if need to put in bigger bolt in Camber to fix (they have not determined if they are going to charge me or not.
Here are my questions-
I bought Sumitomo tires from this tire shop 3 weeks ago, and car started to pull, called them and they said to bring it for alignment, paid and had it aligned, got paper print out, but did not really pay attention to it, they say toe was out and now good, drove it again and pulling right, they said sometimes tires need 500-1000 miles to wear in, so did that. Still pulling, called again, blamed cheap tires I chose and told me to come in and switch to Dunlops that they have experience with, did that change and cost me $100 more. Now I learn this, and they blamed cheap tires. What should I do? nothing wrong with those Sumitomos I bought originally and now a Camber problem that tire shop can't fix and have to go through Toyota. I have probably spent 3 whole days on this problem.
What would you do? feel like tire shops owes me some $.
Our 2007 Camry SE transmission hard shifts when cruising at 38-40mph & has done this since we bought the car. The tachometer drops below 1000rpms quickly and it feels like the car is braking itself. Dealership has not found a problem so far...
Now the transmission is hesitant when accelerating, especially when getting on the freeway. It seems as though the tranny is slipping. I'm awaiting word from the dealership now.
I also noticed the car was very loud when on the freeway & was considering adding insulation, but the dealer said the wheel bearings are bad.
Since we bought the car- The alternator and brake systems have been replaced in addition to the recall problems,transmission & wheel bearings. Fortunately all has been under warranty, but I'm already worried for what will happen when the warranty runs out..
Brakes:The car was shuddering when braking at freeway speeds.
Alternator: The car lost all power while I was driving. There weren't any warning signs prior to losing power. I was fortunate to be able to get off the road and not cause an accident.
The car has 30,000 miles on it, which doesn't seem like very much to be having all these problems already. It doesn't even get driven on a daily basis & has had more breakdowns than my husband's '84 Celica during this timeline.
Is anybody else having these issues too or any advice other than regular maintenance to keep this car running soundly in the future?
You can purchase an extended warranty anytime before it expires. I'm considering doing that. Meanwhile address things right away and don't let them slide too long with the transmission.
Good Luck!
I thought dealers wouldn't apply TSBs unless they replicated the problem. I've gone to two dealerships and both ignored the TSBs I printed out.
I showed them the rear stabilizer bushing squeak TSB and they wouldn't look at it. It's not easy to replicate the squeak if there aren't any speed bumps near the dealership.
I was playing a CD (Bluetooth was OFF), suddenly, the volume will go up and down by itself. I did not touch anything before this happened all by itself.
After a minute or so, the it will happen again. Eventually, I had to turn off the CD player.
Anyone experienced the same? Is this a known issue?
Thanks.
I have been very busy, so as such, I have not posted on this board in a long time. ---- I still own the 2007 V6 Camry XLE, and it has about 58,000 miles. About one month ago, I had an "up-date" done by the dealer, with regards to the "self-acceleration issue." ------ I never had any problems with this vehicle to date. ----- Last month, I purchased a new 2010 Chevrolet Malibu LTZ with a four cylinder engine. The Camry is now my "back-up" vehicle.
Best regards.
Dwayne :shades:
I have a service question. ----- The question involves the replacement of the timing belt on a 2007 V6 XLE Camry at 90,000 miles.
Recently I received a service notice from the selling dealer stating that the timing belt should be serviced on this vehicle on / or about 90,000 miles.
QUESTIONS:
Does the engine need to be removed from the vehicle to replace the timing belt? ------ (The reason why I ask this question is because to replace the water pump on a V6 Camry, the engine needs to be removed, because there is no room to work in the engine compartment. If this is the case, then the water pump should also be replaced at the same time as the timing belt service!)
Recognizing that my vehicle is 3 years old, and it has 58,000 miles and three years left on the extended warranty, ----- "if" ----- I take this action at 90,000 miles it would only have 10,000 miles left on the extended warranty! ------ QUESTION: ---- would it be better to trade this vehicle at 80,000 miles and move on rather than do this service? ----- (I do not want to drive a vehicle without an extended warranty. There are to many electronics and / or components that could fail and cost a fortune to repair / replace.)
Has anyone done this service? ----- if YES, what was the cost? ------ Did you also replace the water pump at the same time? ----- I need to make a "plan of action" because I could easily have 80,000 miles on this vehicle in one year.
Best regards to all. ----------- Dwayne :shades: :confuse:
Kindly be advised that the 2007 V6 XLE Toyota Camry has a timing chain! ----- As long as you change the oil frequently, (every 3,000 miles), it will last 100,000 + miles.
Best regards.
Dwayne ---- :shades:
When going down a steep hill at freeway speeds and applying brakes, steering wheel shakes and car starts shuddering. Serviceman say probably rotors.
I say "already?" Calls later and tells me a new, improved brake pad has been developed which he recommends replacing. I asked when "new, improved" pad was available? Answer: JUNE 2009. Why am I only hearing about it now that my warranty expired 4 months ago? It was on a technical bulletin but not a safety
issue so they don't have to inform customers. Oh well, they don't tell us when it's a safety issue until xxxxxpeople die, right? $58. for pads on front; $175 labor;
$58 pads on back $175 labor. This is my 6th and last Toyota.
Please don't tell me to go to another dealer; 60 miles down steep hills.
Just wanted to post this for others and the guy who had his rotors repaired 9 times. BEWARE.
Leaving here now to go buy a new car. Any suggestions?????
If the rotors were warped, and it sounds that way from the symptoms you describe, then replacing the brake pads doesn't address the warped rotors. So I'm guessing that the labor charge, includes them cutting the rotors.
18K miles is not many miles to have to be replacing brakes. When you say 60 miles down steep hills, does that mean in you live in a very hilly area? That would explain the high pad usage.
What's the reference to 9 rotor repairs?
TOTAL PARTS $189.77, TOTAL LABOR & PARTS $543.16
2. I do not live in a hilly area and seldom drive on the freeway (maybe 4 trips in 3 years where there were 1 or 2 "hills" per trip) i.e., to L.A. over Canejo Grade.
3. Reference to 9 rotor repairs is on this message board posted by "hughesbst"
Post #4737
1.) It might be that the compressor bearing froze, and the compressor is bad. Ohh by the way, a mounting bolt broke. Repair job is to buy a new compressor and mount it with a new bolt, recharge the system w/freon. If that is your scenario, 2100 seems high.
2.) It might be that the compressor disintegrated internally, sending metal shavings thru out the AC system. Ohh by the way, a mounting bolt broke. They have to take the complete AC system apart and purge out all the lines, replace some additional parts in addition to the compressor that got damaged or clogged by the filings, refill the system and check for leaks. Could be in the range of 2100.
3.) The compressor bearing went bad, and somehow the serpentine belt put soo much pressure on the compressor it broke the mounting bolt and mounting. The bulk of the charges are trying to figure out how to remount a new compressor on the engine.
I'd suggest asking a lot more questions to understand what they are suggesting the repair will consist of. What parts are the planning to replace and why, what labor are they planning to do and why. Knowing that would arm you with the ability to go to another repair shop and have them look at it and give you an estimate. A second repair shop may think that their proposed repair is the same, but their parts costs and labor costs are different. Or, they may suggest a different set of tasks and parts replacements need to be done, and those come up to a different price.
Compressor bearings can go bad in any make vehicle. Call an autoparts chain (Pep Boys, Autozone, etc) to get an idea how much aftermarket parts are, as a reference point. I would expect dealer OEM parts to cost more, but sometimes you might find the price differential way out of whack. I haven't had to replace a compressor in a number of years, so I don't have current price reference point.
But for the original poster, just to make sure comparing apples to apples, that is a remanufactured compressor, as compared to what (most likely) is a new compressor from Toyota (but you should get clarity and check).
Toyota does not inform their customers about the problems and TSBs. You have to diagnose it yourself and find out the TSB, then you take it to the dealer and try to convince them that you have the problem.
GOOD LUCK !!
I'm about to buy a used Toyota Camry 2007 SE (V6). I've been going through a lot of posts and comments about problems with the transmission, oil leakage etc... I just want to find out if all 2007 V6 SEs have this problem. If they do, I'll pass. But if not, is there a way to determine if the one i'm considering has this problem??? the VIN number is 4T1BK46K47U505038.
One more thing, I paid for the CARFAX VIN report and up until now, there's no record of transmission problems, oil leakage, etc.
The car was manufactured 04/17/2006.
Please I need your advice so I can make a well informed decision.
Thanx a mill in advance...
What kind of fluid did you use?
Did you buy an "autobleeder" so it could be a one-person job? If so, where did you buy it and how much did it cost?
Thanks for any and all tips/tricks/advice.
Michael
I have a one man bleeder which I typically use to pull a vacuum at each wheel. To be honest, I don't remember where I got it or how much it costs. MIght have been a Harbor Freight store, or some autoparts store. I'd guess maybe 15 or 20 bucks.
I use that to do the major flushing of the fluid, but revert back to a 2 person 'pump and hold it' as the final bleed. I had one of my daughters just pump the brakes and hold it, then cracked the bleeder to be sure each caliper was bleed properly. Then move on and do the next wheel.
Just be careful to never let the master cylinder run dry, or you'll probably need to take it to a dealership to have the anti-lock brake system energized and purged. I just use a quart of the standard autoparts store Prestone Dot 3 brake fluid (if I recall correctly). Look it up in the owners manual, it will tell you the Dot standard.
I posted earlier the specifics, but I think it cost me something like $40 bucks for a set of pads and fluid.
It's really a pretty simple replacement on the Toyota, compared to some other vehicle's I've owned before.
Dot 5 is now available and is backward compatible.
I own a 2007 V6 XLE Camry with 58,000+ miles. (It is my second vehicle.) ---- It has only be serviced by the selling dealer since new. ----- It has been trouble free. -- It gets 30+ mpg on long highway trips! ----- I have had NO transmission issues. --- I did have the flexible oil line replaced under the extended Toyota warranty. The hose did not break. ----- Some people are having issues with these vehicles by my XLE has been a great vehicle.
Best regards!
Dwayne :shades: :confuse:
Check engine light went on first thing this morning out of the blue. Drove on it for a few miles, first gear fine, second gear was extremely sluggish. Car would get "stuck" at 2,000 rpms and approx 25 miles per hour in second.....would not accelerate (ironic for a camy) no matter if my foot was half way down the pedal or if I put it to the floor, for approximately 5-7 seconds. Then it would kick in and accelerate. Very odd.
Took car to dealership this morning and they analyzed the code. Said it was a "knock sensor". They attempted to reset all codes, but it didn't work. They then said that, based on their experience, it was a mouse or something that started nesting in the engine and chewed up a wire or two. They'd have to remove the manifold to be sure and it would cost me about $500 because it wouldn't be covered under the powertrain warranty which obviously hasn't expired yet. They said that there was an outside shot that it was something car-related and not rodent-related, which could be covered, but really.....what are the chances of them ever admitting that. They're obviously going to say it was a mouse or something like that and I'd have no way to prove it wasn't.
Does this sound legit both in terms of diagnosis and cost to repair? This is a car that gets driven every day, so I can't imagine anything really having time to hang out and nest in there.